Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:23 AM - Canopy gas strut Specifications ()
2. 01:24 AM - Re: Flap rigging adjustment rqd (Area-51)
3. 02:59 AM - Re: Canopy gas strut Specifications (timward)
4. 07:02 AM - Re: Flap rigging adjustment rqd (William Daniell)
5. 07:10 AM - Re: Canopy gas strut Specifications (Bud Yerly)
6. 08:18 AM - Re: Rotax 914 Dyno Test (Erich Trombley)
7. 11:29 AM - Re: Re: Rotax 914 Dyno Test (Bud Yerly)
8. 05:48 PM - Making an Europa pretty (n7188u)
9. 06:05 PM - Re: Making an Europa pretty (n7188u)
10. 06:18 PM - Re: Re: Making an Europa pretty (Pete)
11. 08:30 PM - Beringer Wheel & Brake. Tire (Jerry Rehn)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Canopy gas strut Specifications |
Anyone know the specifications of the Canopy gas struts?
In particular their pressure rating.
I need to replace both.
Ian McClelland
15 Harvard Road
Burleigh
Blenheim 7201
NewZealand
027 389 2173
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| Subject: | Re: Flap rigging adjustment rqd |
What about an adjustable concentric in the flap tube where it meets the flap pin?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=511037#511037
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy gas strut Specifications |
Hi Ian,
I take my struts to Strut Power here in Christchurch. He will test them firs
t for faulty seals and then re-gas them to the required pressure. I haven
=99t had to buy new ones yet.
Cheers, Tim
Sent from my iPad
Tim Ward
12 Waiwetu Street,
Fendalton,
Christchurch, 8052
New Zealand.
ward.t@xtra.co.nz
021 0640221
> On 5/07/2023, at 8:32 PM, macstar1224@gmail.com wrote:
>
> =EF=BB
> Anyone know the specifications of the Canopy gas struts?
> In particular their pressure rating.
> I need to replace both.
>
>
> Ian McClelland
> 15 Harvard Road
> Burleigh
> Blenheim 7201
> NewZealand
> 027 389 2173
>
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| Subject: | Re: Flap rigging adjustment rqd |
The way that bud suggests is to use the front end of the flap slot in the
rear fuselage and the baggage bay bulkhead - build up the required shim
with flox. bud's suggestion worked for me ...but I have a tri not a mono
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+1 786 878 0246
On Tue, Jul 4, 2023 at 3:44=AFPM JDA <johndavidamos@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have any advice on adjusting the flap rigging once the initia
l
> build has been completed? My monowheel has slightly more flap (about 1deg
)
> on the RHS. The upshot is that it rolls left - even with a passenger on
> board. I have to carry a bit of aileron to compensate which is easily
> trimmed out, but because of this the aircraft always drops a left wing in
> the stall - and sometimes quite dramatically! If I stall with the stick i
n
> the middle and keep the wings level with rudder I can sit in the heavy
> buffet without wing drop. Because of the benign stick-central stall I am
> reluctant to use stall strips, although this remains a last-ditch solutio
n.
> I would rather fix the problem at source and level up the flaps - it is
> only a tiny amount. The Europa Club archives has some notes by Bud Yerly:
> he advocates trimming the flaps by shimming the flap drive tube against t
he
> baggage bulkhead to "twist" the tube. However having spent a day with a
> torch and a lot of head scratching!
> I cannot work out exactly how this would work in practice - and in any
> case there is no bulkhead for me to easily shim against. It seems to me
> that it would be a far easier solution to shim one of the flap drive tub
e
> brackets (FL18) on the floor of the fuselage to raise one side of the tub
e
> - if only they weren't bonded in place! My proposed solution therefore is
> to obtain a replacement torque tube hinge arm FL16 (undrilled) from Europ
a,
> and re-drill the holes to effectively shorten the arm and drop the flap o
n
> one side by one degree. This would cause a little twisting, but the whole
> flap assembly across the span appears flexible with a little play - and w
e
> are only talking about 1 deg as measured at the flap which is a tiny amou
nt.
> My questions are: has anyone successfully adjusted their flap rigging
> before? How was it done? Has anyone used Bud's solution who can explain h
ow
> it works in practice? Can anyone think of a technical objection to my own
> proposal above?
> To answer the obvious question: I am in the UK and subject to the LAA. My
> inspector would be involved and I am already sharing my thoughts with him
,
> but neither of us wants to re-invent the wheel if it has been done before
!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=511036#511036
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Canopy gas strut Specifications |
Providing you have done Mod 66>
I had LST struts in Canada make me replacements for my customers in case Eu
ropa couldn=92t supply replacements.
The struts are 110-300mm with 25 newton pressure for me and my customers.
None of my customers have mechanical door openers or extra latches but do h
ave door locks, vent windows and the like making the doors heavier.
Heavy doors (big pull handles, door locks, extra latches small vent door in
the window), I prefer 25 newtons.
Light doors pressure is a minimum of 20 newtons. Most of my clients prefer
the 25 newtons, even for the light doors, as the wind doesn=92t blow the d
oors closed.
Expect gas spring struts to last about 10 years before they start to sag.
Get them pumped up at 10 years and go fly.
I=92m out of the shop this morning but I still have a couple struts in stoc
k. If the pressure drops on these LST shocks, I send them back to the man
ufacturer via post and get them refurbished. Cheap insurance.
I also keep a spare set.
As for options: I prefer the locking metal strut end for the 8 mm ball.
If you have a shop down under that services struts don=92t go past 25 newto
ns on the Europa strut or a 25 year old strut or you may blow it out.
If you go to an auto-parts store to replace your struts, be sure they fit e
xactly or move your posts as the Europa is not a real common size. Too sho
rt and the door doesn=92t open wide enough. Too long and the door doesn=92
t close.
If you haven=92t moved your struts to the Mod 66 position, it is highly rec
ommended.
Just my experience.
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matr
onics.com> On Behalf Of macstar1224@gmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2023 4:23 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Canopy gas strut Specifications
Anyone know the specifications of the Canopy gas struts?
In particular their pressure rating.
I need to replace both.
Ian McClelland
15 Harvard Road
Burleigh
Blenheim 7201
NewZealand
027 389 2173
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Dyno Test |
Hello all,
Having flown my Europa Monowheel, powered by an early 914 for over 20 years, I
find this discussion interesting. I initially installed my engine with an intercooler,
however after a few years I removed it, rationalizing that it was
unnecessary since 100% power is all that I ever use for takeoff, and I cruise
at 75% power. I figured it was just extra weight and so out it came. Unfortunately,
at the time I was not monitoring airbox temp as my engine monitor wasnt
that sophisticated.
That changed when I installed my Dynon Skyview with a very capable engine monitor.
I found that the airbox temperature was as high as 170 F which exceeded
the intervention temperature (160 F) for my early motor. So, I reinstalled the
intercooler which knocked the airbox temp down to 132 F max.
Considering the new TCU has an intervention temperature of 190 F, the installation
of an intercooler may not be necessary. YMMV.
Lastly, regarding the DO 178 B takeoff. I believe the english translation of the
operating manual my be incorrect. The description of the DO 178 B takeoff
is correct, stating that the takeoff is performed with a deactivated servo motor
of the TCU. This makes sense considering Rotax requires a double pole, single
throw switch be installed to isolate the servo motor should the engine be
unable to maintain a steady RPM at high power settings. However, the steps listed
to perform the DO 178 B instruct you to turn off the TCU. I believe this
is an error, as doing so would cause the TCU to perform a self test upon being
turned back on, which would cycle the waste-gate, something you would not want
to happen while in flight. Rather, I believe the manual intended to say that
you should deactivate (isolate) the servo motor with the above reference switch
while keeping the TCU on. In this manner, when the servo motor is turned
back on, the TCU will not recycle the waste-gate, but will adjust the waste-gate
as necessary based on the current throttle position.
Looking forward to seeing everyone at OSH later this month,
Erich
N28ET Classic Mono 914
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Dyno Test |
Eric you are spot on.
In 2010 I put the TLR46 TCU on my old Rotax 914 and I didn't see the airbox temp
on my thermocouple go above 140 C so that told me I didn't need any intercooler
as we did on the Jason Parker modified 914. His engine had a simple vacuum
dashpot turbo control, so the boost came on later as RPM increased).
Personally, I use full turbo for takeoff to check it works as advertised, more
than actually needing the power for takeoff. My inlet temp was measured by a
thermocouple clamped to the plenum for my tests originally. (I don't have a probe
in the engine although there is a port.) I was more concerned about heat
during the extended climb at max continuous and my CHTs and found TOT was not
a factor with the new TCU in 90 F degree summer heat.
In the Parker engines I would put a bag of ice on the intercooler and found that
could make a huge difference but in fact we needed a larger intercooler, the
width of the engine, to be effective without ice on the slower planes. The flow
of air in these small turbos is not that great and the mass of the cooler
was more important as a temperature dissipater on hot California desert days than
the inlet and discharge. That is just my opinion down here in hot Florida.
We every day fliers don't race the other fast glass planes like in the very
early 2000's at Sun n Fun to fool with the turbo. We want to fly safe and efficiently,
or we wouldn't own the Europa. (They told me the Eclipse would win
because they wired open the wastegate to get the factory Europa mono's by a couple
knots.)
In general: Use good gas, go to full turbo for takeoff and pull it back when safely
airborne and leave it in max continuous for the climb is all most Europa
owners need to do. Where the TCU places the turbo wastegate is information not
needed to fly or worry about the old TCU temperature anti knock waste gate
limiter but its nice to know and that is what data logging is good for. The charts
in the book are good enough for a reference. I would recommend , just prior
to annual, wash the bird, bring your laptop along and hook it up on the D
sub you put in the cockpit for your TLR 46 recording. Go fly: Record the data
at start for a few seconds, then hit L to stop log, then hit L again and record
takeoff, transition to climb and then hit L to stop, then L again to turn on
log for passing 5000MSL, and go into cruise at 5500 MSL (East Coast and 7500
Western mountains may be better) and let the engine stabilize at cruise, trim
it up, and enjoy the flight. At cruise, record into your camera or on paper,
the trim, rig, your desired aircraft upgrades, deficiencies, malfunctions, analyze
your stall and slow flight for feel, stall recognition and reaction then
land and take the data home. Break it down, prepare your inspection checklist,
gather parts, and then go to the hangar/workshop/garage and take care of mx
business.
The stock 914 installation per the manual is adequate with some attention to the
ducting. Because the power output (BTUs) are higher on the 914, watch your
cylinder temps with the new engine on extended climbs. Climb at 90-100 Kts will
help on break-in of a new engine. Set your plane up for good recording. Dynon,
Grand Rapids, and of course the famous Rotax recording methods are good
things to build into your plane and assist you in flight testing as you will find
data recording to be time consuming and distracting. Let the computers do
their thing and you fly the airplane, clear for traffic, concentrate on good
airmanship in flight, the pattern and landing.
Just my opinion,
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com>
On Behalf Of Erich Trombley
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2023 11:18 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Rotax 914 Dyno Test
Hello all,
Having flown my Europa Monowheel, powered by an early 914 for over 20 years, I
find this discussion interesting. I initially installed my engine with an intercooler,
however after a few years I removed it, rationalizing that it was
unnecessary since 100% power is all that I ever use for takeoff, and I cruise
at 75% power. I figured it was just extra weight and so out it came. Unfortunately,
at the time I was not monitoring airbox temp as my engine monitor wasnt
that sophisticated.
That changed when I installed my Dynon Skyview with a very capable engine monitor.
I found that the airbox temperature was as high as 170 F which exceeded
the intervention temperature (160 F) for my early motor. So, I reinstalled the
intercooler which knocked the airbox temp down to 132 F max.
Considering the new TCU has an intervention temperature of 190 F, the installation
of an intercooler may not be necessary. YMMV.
Lastly, regarding the DO 178 B takeoff. I believe the english translation of the
operating manual my be incorrect. The description of the DO 178 B takeoff
is correct, stating that the takeoff is performed with a deactivated servo motor
of the TCU. This makes sense considering Rotax requires a double pole, single
throw switch be installed to isolate the servo motor should the engine be
unable to maintain a steady RPM at high power settings. However, the steps listed
to perform the DO 178 B instruct you to turn off the TCU. I believe this
is an error, as doing so would cause the TCU to perform a self test upon being
turned back on, which would cycle the waste-gate, something you would not want
to happen while in flight. Rather, I believe the manual intended to say that
you should deactivate (isolate) the servo motor with the above reference switch
while keeping the TCU on. In this manner, when the servo motor is turned
back on, the TCU will not recycle the waste-!
gate, but will adjust the waste-gate as necessary based on the current throttle
position.
Looking forward to seeing everyone at OSH later this month,
Erich
N28ET Classic Mono 914
Message 8
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| Subject: | Making an Europa pretty |
Hi Europa family,
So I have been a bit quiet because I am working hard on my Europa painting project.
And like everything Europa related, it is not letting you make it easy (well,
in this case it is not her fault) :)
I spent quite a bit of time preparing my spraying setup. I built a nice spray booth
that took a lot of fiddling to make it reasonably clean (and then learned
that there are ways to pain at home that dont involve so much work). I built
a nice air supply system and well as booth flow to keep things smog free inside
as well as to keep neighbors happy. Anyway, that took some effort.
The came the BIG challenge. Paints these days suck big time. And guns, despite
their outreageous price, dont help either. I selected a great paint brand that
its pretty much a boutique product. If you have questions you can actually talk
to the owner (and chemist) of the company. And he told me that because of the
EPA his paints do such. But he insists they are better than other brands of
course. What is bad about them is that they spray nothing like the paints of
old. And that makes a painter of old like me suffer a lot and make a crappy job.
Barry, the owner of the paint company told me it would take a long and painful
learning curve. no he was right. But I am getting there. Mind you that I am
a bit of a perfectionist and I want a pretty Europa. Ill settle for nothing
else.
So I think that my painting story will make a nice presentation in the future,
or maybe even an Europa flier article :) I will certainly share what I have learned
during this process since I think it is very interesting.
So far I have painted all the tail feather and are working on the ailerons and
flaps. I include a picture of one flap. Doesnt look bad but not quite to my level
of perfectionism (a virtue it a big curse). But I know some in this forum
are even more perfectionists than me!
Anyway, I will report the progress int he future. This brutal summer heat is not
helping. But getting there.
Best,
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=511046#511046
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/74674b93_9fc4_429a_95e1_055ecd7e49d2_124.jpeg
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Making an Europa pretty |
BTW, two exciting things I can share with he group:
1.- The epoxy primer I sprayed two years ago is fantastic. Sands like a dream after
two years and certainly doesnt have any issues with degradation or contamination.
Unfortunately my fuselage was painted with a different primer and sealer
before I learned about this epoxy primer. So will see how it goes. So if anyone
out there wants to fly the airplane on primer and then paint there is an
good option. It is truly amazing stuff. But beware, not easy to spray but once
you get the hang of it lays down like silk.
2.- The block sanding is coming out perfect! You can see that on the picture I
attached previously. The paint is showing the orange peel that bothers me but
you can see that the reflection is not distorted. The two years of curing did
its job showing the shrinkage during blocking but it was easily blocked out by
the primer layer. Very happy. I dont expect the wing to be as smooth because
of its molded nature.
BTW, all this was achieved with minimal weight gain so it can be done. But the
top coat wont be too light. The final W&B will tell that side of the story.
Best,
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=511047#511047
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Making an Europa pretty |
Watching and listening to learn!
Cheers and thx!
PeteZ
> On Jul 5, 2023, at 9:14 PM, n7188u <chmgarb@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> BTW, two exciting things I can share with he group:
>
> 1.- The epoxy primer I sprayed two years ago is fantastic. Sands like a dream
after two years and certainly doesnt have any issues with degradation or contamination.
Unfortunately my fuselage was painted with a different primer and sealer
before I learned about this epoxy primer. So will see how it goes. So if
anyone out there wants to fly the airplane on primer and then paint there is
an good option. It is truly amazing stuff. But beware, not easy to spray but once
you get the hang of it lays down like silk.
>
> 2.- The block sanding is coming out perfect! You can see that on the picture
I attached previously. The paint is showing the orange peel that bothers me but
you can see that the reflection is not distorted. The two years of curing did
its job showing the shrinkage during blocking but it was easily blocked out
by the primer layer. Very happy. I dont expect the wing to be as smooth because
of its molded nature.
>
> BTW, all this was achieved with minimal weight gain so it can be done. But the
top coat wont be too light. The final W&B will tell that side of the story.
>
> Best,
> Chris
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=511047#511047
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Beringer Wheel & Brake. Tire |
Hello
I read in the Flyer article August 2020 that the 7.00-6 6 ply AIR TRAC was installed.
Beringer no longer ships with a tire here in US. I called and talked to
a Beringer rep. and he thought the AIR TRAC would work. Is this the same tire
one used with a tube? And can be used tubeless. Any comments and experiences
with this greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Jerry
Sent from my iPad
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