Today's Message Index:
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1. 03:15 AM - Re: Rotax 914 Dyno Test (Area-51)
2. 03:49 AM - Re: Making an Europa pretty (Area-51)
3. 11:06 AM - Re: Making an Europa pretty (n7188u)
4. 01:35 PM - Re: Making an Europa pretty (Area-51)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Rotax 914 Dyno Test |
That's sound advise; just set it all up as factory advise, and just fly the plane
and let the computer do the rest. Guess what? It will work as required
Personally, my view toward turbo charging is not to increase go fast performance,
but just for atmospheric compensation at altitude.
Is that a typo re' Eclipse, wouldn't they of wired the wast gate shut?
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Subject: | Re: Making an Europa pretty |
Looks pretty damn perfect to me; well done.
Great idea using the venetian blinds for checking surface quality!
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Subject: | Re: Making an Europa pretty |
I will keep posting once in a while. I am now block sanding the ailerons.
If the epoxy is older than 7 days (which in this case it is 2 years) you must sand
with 180 grit. Then one coat of epoxy primer reduced 10% then two coats of
single stage.
The paint company claims that this plan will hide the 180 marks but I am not sold
on it. Also, you only have 7 days from application of the epoxy to top coat,
without a need to sand. After that you must re-sand 180 grit.
That is OK in small parts but I am going to switch to epoxy then a coat of urethane
sealer then sand 600 then very thin epoxy sealer (this could be omitted but
I will try to squeeze it in) then single stage. This sounds like a lot but
the epoxy primer is very thin and light and the urethane sealer extends the recoat
window to forever. Having to seal a wing or fuselage and then top coat in
7 days may not be possible for someone not retired like me.
And the blinds were just coincidental :) I put the parts in my room and noticed
they make a nice reflection on the parts.
Chris
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Subject: | Re: Making an Europa pretty |
Don't know enough about the technicals on the paint system to comment on the seven
day window but sounds like an adhesion bonding factor; some systems give you
a 12hr window, some 21 days...
There are a few camps with conflicting views; some swear by water based systems,
others solvent based.. Some swear by rubbing back and buffing the final top
coat on two pak systems, others never rubbing back and buffing an "off-the-gun-finish"
(reason being the sealed paint film is opened up to microscopic holes
and allows stuff to set up house in the holes causing the lustre to diminish);
can attest to this being true, but with a white finish you would just hard wax
it once a year and it will still be great. If you get a good result off the
gun go with that and a good UV wax.
Paint success is mostly dependent upon knowing how the system chemically works
with different component layers; flash, re-coat, and cure times. And humidity
scale when mixing for the spray pot each session.
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