Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:02 AM - Rotax Airbox temp to dynon (William Daniell)
2. 08:19 AM - Re: Making an Europa pretty (n7188u)
3. 03:37 PM - Re: Rotax Airbox temp to dynon (rparigoris)
4. 03:54 PM - access hatches on neville eyre's cowl - hinge query (Rowland Carson)
5. 11:07 PM - Re: access hatches on neville eyre's cowl - hinge query (Alan Twigg)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Rotax Airbox temp to dynon |
As many of you already know I have turbo-ed 912.
There are many of these in Colombia and nobody has airbox temp sensor and
consequently nobody worries about it!
The recent 914-dyno conversation has sparked my interest. Does anyone have
an airbox temp sensor connected to a dynon?
thanks
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+1 786 878 0246
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Making an Europa pretty |
You are right 51, the window is all about adhesion. The chemical adhesion of the
epoxy primers is non-existent after the recoat window. Then it is all mechanical.
Old (non-compliant) epoxy primers had lead (per the paint company owner)
that allowed the window to be almost unlimited. But they can't use lead anymore.
Urethane primer doesn't have that limitation.
So I am applying an epoxy sealer coat over the old sanded epoxy (doesn't have to
be thick) for adhesion, then a thin urethane sealer coat to allow for 600 sanding
and extend the window. As I explained, the paint company claims you don't
need to sand the epoxy primer sealer coat to hide the 180 sanding marks but
I tried and not very happy.
Regarding "Cut and Buff" as it is called here, it is very common in car circles.
It is almost a must because the paints do spray very orange peely these days.
If you don't want that look then you need to do it and most people just plan
for that. The good news is that the paints are designed for that and the more
expensive ones like the one I am using remain softer to allow better buffing.
Modern sanding and buffing materials are also much better.
But talking to the paint company owner yesterday he told me people cut and buff
if it is a car. He has not seem many airplane people like us doing it. Maybe
if you want an award winning plane. I wouldn't mind having an orange peel free
finish but will probably just live with it. I tried everything and learned that
heavy orange peel is a fact of these modern paints unless you are a robot.
I have heard than some cheaper paints may flow better but then quality suffers.
I will ask the owner about what you mentioned regarding micro pores or durability.
Good point, lets confirm it.
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=511062#511062
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rotax Airbox temp to dynon |
Hi Willaim
We have an Ilec Variometer that has a temperature readout. We have a rotary switch
that can select 6 different inputs including ambient, airbox and inside instrument
module. I made a probe that goes into the airbox:
https://1drv.ms/f/s!Ah1S270Nwg9V5URcu_c2hgZI7iv7?e=ahYUuU
I imagine if Dynon or someone else doesn't offer an off the shelf probe, you can
roll your own.
Ron P.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=511064#511064
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| Subject: | access hatches on neville eyre's cowl - hinge query |
Ive just cut out the hatch covers from the larger pieces that Neville supplied
with the cowl, and have made the holes in the access recesses with 10mm flanges
all round. The hatches fettled easily to beautiful fits, but now I have a problem.
The recess for the hinge, in both locations, is only 2mm below the level of the
hatch cover - but the MS20001-3 hinge needs about 5mm depth. I think I need to
cut off each recessed hinge plate that Neville provided and replace it with
a new layup that is more deeply recessed.
Or maybe remove that recess completely and attach the fixed leaf of the hinge to
the undersurface of the cowl? If the hinge was fitted knuckle up the would have
to be exposed. If it was knuckle down, I dont think it would open far enough
to be practical.
Im not sure about the fasteners. I would counter sink the rivets into the fixed
leaf of the hinge, leaving the set ends inside the cowl. Obviously the rivets
in the top leaf will need to be countersunk into the hatch cover but I wonder
if there will be room for the set ends of the pop-rivets between the leaves of
the hinge.
Questions:
(1) Is there something really obvious that I have missed about fitting the hinges?
(2) I propose 3 layers of BID for the new deeper-recessed hinge plate, overlapping
onto the body of the cowl by at least 50mm in 3 directions.
(3) Is there any merit in the alternative of fixing the fixed hinge leaf to the
inner surface of the cowl?
(4) Any comments about rivets?
All contributions gratefully received.
in friendship
Rowland
| Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
| <rowlandcarson@gmail.com> http://www.rowlandcarson.org.uk
| Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: access hatches on neville eyre's cowl - hinge query |
Rowland, I will send pictures and investigate, it was nowhere near as complicated
as you say. And as you say the fit was really nice.
Alan.
Sent from my iPhone
> On 7 Jul 2023, at 23:57, Rowland Carson <rowlandcarson@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Ive just cut out the hatch covers from the larger pieces that Neville supplied
with the cowl, and have made the holes in the access recesses with 10mm flanges
all round. The hatches fettled easily to beautiful fits, but now I have a
problem.
>
> The recess for the hinge, in both locations, is only 2mm below the level of the
hatch cover - but the MS20001-3 hinge needs about 5mm depth. I think I need
to cut off each recessed hinge plate that Neville provided and replace it with
a new layup that is more deeply recessed.
>
> Or maybe remove that recess completely and attach the fixed leaf of the hinge
to the undersurface of the cowl? If the hinge was fitted knuckle up the would
have to be exposed. If it was knuckle down, I dont think it would open far enough
to be practical.
>
> Im not sure about the fasteners. I would counter sink the rivets into the fixed
leaf of the hinge, leaving the set ends inside the cowl. Obviously the rivets
in the top leaf will need to be countersunk into the hatch cover but I wonder
if there will be room for the set ends of the pop-rivets between the leaves
of the hinge.
>
> Questions:
>
> (1) Is there something really obvious that I have missed about fitting the hinges?
>
> (2) I propose 3 layers of BID for the new deeper-recessed hinge plate, overlapping
onto the body of the cowl by at least 50mm in 3 directions.
>
> (3) Is there any merit in the alternative of fixing the fixed hinge leaf to the
inner surface of the cowl?
>
> (4) Any comments about rivets?
>
> All contributions gratefully received.
>
> in friendship
>
> Rowland
>
>
>
>
>
>
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