Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:10 AM - Re: Making an Europa pretty (n7188u)
2. 12:34 PM - Re: Re: Making an Europa pretty (Paul McAllister)
3. 06:13 PM - Re: Re: Making an Europa pretty (Bud Yerly)
4. 06:44 PM - Re: Re: Making an Europa pretty (Bud Yerly)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Making an Europa pretty |
Hi Bud, good and down to earth writeup. What you describe is what I have experienced
and have settled for. Orange peel will be there in my airplane but as I
mentioned it doesn't look that bad. Just being picky. I think that the problem
with this task is that you build unrealistic expectations by reading postings
from pros, then suffer if you can get perfect results. I learned my lesson and
things are moving a tad quicker now.
BTW, I hate this nasty paint but I bought a new forced air respirator system and
use a full suit with a full hood. Works surprisingly well. I placed the turbine
in a box with an AC blowing at it and it keeps my head and suit cold inside.
It's nice.
I have settled for spraying a thinner coat and will probably not cut and buff because
I don't want to run the risk of burning through the paint and having to
do it again (NO F WAY). The best finish so far is by applying thinner coats and
hoping it flows. But the difference between too dry and too wet is milliseconds
in speed. This morning I used my slower Iwata and I think it is a little
better. Regarding Florida heat, I am waking up at 5:30 to spray. Temp around 75F
but yes, the booth will heat up when it is curing during the day. I am using
a little retarder which helps. I could place the AC unit in the booth and turn
it on when finished spraying.
BTW, I sprayed the access covers on the plane with 24 year old PPG Durathane with
a crappy gun and it went on like a mirror. So old paints were sure much easier
to spray than todays.
So I leave you with a couple of pictures of my spray this morning. Not bad. But
I have noticed that it looks better after spray and then gets a little more orange
peely with the day heat. I'll work on getting my window AC unit installed
in the booth later today to try.
One day I will have my pretty Europa flying again, for good.
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=511098#511098
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Making an Europa pretty |
Bud, I see in your posting that you have experience with Imron. I have
some paint damage on my red GP4. It's painted with Imron and I have some
of the original paint from the builder. Is it possible for a skilled
painter to blend in with the existing paint or am I faced with having the
whole wing painted. Thanks, Paul
On Thu, Jul 13, 2023 at 12:37=AFPM Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> wrote
:
>
> Chris,
> I've used Imron and Imron industrial on my planes for 20 years and I love
> and hate the paint.
> As 51 commented, I too made the mistake of painting urethane without
> proper ventilation/protection back in the 80s. Nasty stuff. I was lucky
,
> as soon as I realized I was "poisoned" I ran out of the booth and stopped
> trying to paint without proper equipment. I will occasionally paint in t
he
> shop (like one wing top) with only a good mask and lots of ventilation, b
ut
> I am extremely careful now.
>
> Orange peel and urethane are inseparable. You are right, there are
> degrees of orange peel. Some are visible but when you run your hand over
> the skin, it squeaks and feels slick. That kind of orange peel is fine
> with me.
> When Johnny (my painter) was still able, he could shoot even industrial
> Imron dead smooth. He used a Binx #7 and moved extremely fast and steady
> laying a light wet coat at about 30 PSI, followed by a medium at 70 PSI
> then the final at 120 PSI. The paint cloud was horrible, but he could ge
t
> it smooth just about every time. Once cured on top to the touch, he woul
d
> mist the plane with water. Keeping the paint cool or it would orange pee
l
> in the hot Florida days. He said the key was a good 150 PSI compressor
> that put out cool dry air. An air conditioned paint booth was a must in
> Florida. A gun that atomizes extremely well, and of course good techniqu
e
> and overlap consistency. (At his home he painted at night in the cool fa
ll
> and used water to cool the paint.) Once the government forced him to go
to
> HVLP guns, he never got the technique down again. Using the HVLP guns
> (DeVilbiss mostly) the Imron serious orange peel started us cutting and
> buffing for a week on the last !
> few planes he did for me. He and his guys could clear coat pretty well
> with today's car base coat clear coat urethanes with the HVLP but on old
> style high solids urethanes, it remained a challenge. I've seen Aerothan
e
> go on smooth using an HVLP with 1.3 nozzle and it was still a bit lumpy
> without reducing, but not bad so they seem to be doing it right. However
,
> Johnny's guys did not like Aerothane as they never got the settings right
> (of course they never read instructions either). For that much money per
> gallon it should go on perfectly. The only car paint I've ever put on an
> airplane was a brand called Autobaun from Germany. It was a very nice
> paint. Expensive but still not as hard and wear resistant as Imron or
> aircraft quality paints.
>
> Imron, like most urethanes is so sensitive to flash, temperature and gun
> settings that it would orange peel just looking at it. If the air supply
> isn't dry, the humidity and temp controlled in the booth and the part als
o
> cool I can't do a nice HVLP job. The factory rep came to the body shop a
nd
> he couldn=99t get the Imron industrial not to orange peel. Dupont
called for
> a first coat of medium wet using a 1.1 nozzle. Then two more medium wet
> coats. The aileron looked like a golf ball finish. We found like A51
> said, doing it on the flat with a HVLP with a larger nozzle helped on the
> thicker paints. I can't emphasize enough that these aircraft paints like
> to go onto a cool surface (70F or so) and prefer cool air or they flash.
I
> got rid of my turbine gun years ago because of the heat they added. I he
ar
> reducers help but in my experience, keep it cool and let it cure at 75F o
r
> below overnight.
>
> Cutting and buffing became a way of life for paint finishers with urethan
e
> if you wanted that glass finish. I've even tried adding the roller
> additive we used on boats for roll and tipping, and a reducer which cut t
he
> orange peel somewhat, but it was still somewhat there.
>
> I hate doing the labor, but if you put enough paint on, then cut and buff
> starting with 800 wet sanded on significant orange peel then 1000, 1200,
> 1500, 2000, 3000, 4000 changing pads frequently and then buffing at low
> speed with fine compounds, you can get a glass finish in only a weeks wor
th
> of work. If you put on the paint very thick here in Florida's summer hea
t
> and try to cut it, you can often see microscopic air bubbles in the paint
> if it dried too fast on top and trapped the air in the paint. In that
> case, wet sand all the way down to the primer and start over.
>
> When it is done well, it sure does look pretty once polished out. Proble
m
> is we don't do it often enough to get the learning curve firmly set in ou
r
> brain. So, today, once it dries, I'm back to cut and buff. I'm still no
t
> motivated to paint the top of my wing delamination repair. Primer sure
> looks good, but I've got to scuff the top, tape and drape and get psyched
> up to finish this project.
>
> Best Regards,
> Bud Yerly
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <
> owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of Area-51
> Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2023 3:52 AM
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Re: Making an Europa pretty
>
> goldsteinindustrial@gmail.com>
>
> All valid and wise... It's an aircraft, not a static show pony at the
> hotrod meet where guys debate near useless aspects of OCD cosmetic
> indulgence found nowhere else except in the fashion industry.
>
> And it is white.
>
> There are actually some paint guys that can get a glass mirror finish off
> the gun. All they do is top coat paint and nothing else; and they sure
> charge for it. They number very few. In the olden days brushes were of th
e
> finest sable and the pot of paint was heated to get the paint to flow out
> flat; then it was all finished in wax.
>
> Orange peel is controlled by several factors; the pressure exiting the
> nozzle, the amount of paint metering through the nozzle, the flash time
> factored by the amount of reducer/extender added in the mix, temperature
> and stability while inside the booth. The longer the flash time the more
> the paint will flatten out, partly why rotisseries are used, but the more
> opportinity for dust, runs and bugs to ruin the show. What ever panel can
> be laid flat the better.
>
> Flow coating clear will build the depth illusion; not really noticeable o
n
> white unless it has a fleck or pearl factor in the base coat. And it will
> turn slightly yellow as it ages. Not really necessary. Better off going f
or
> three to four coats of base colour and leaving it to cure if it meets the
> grade.
>
> I painted a car in a home made garage booth with Glasurit system in 1987;
> it was a great finish straight off the gun and never got cut or buffed. 3
5
> years after it still looked as good as the day it was assembled with just
a
> wash chamois and wax. And was ill with mild cyanide poisoning for the fir
st
> two enjoyable years. =C3=B0=C5=B8=CB=9C=C5-
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=511092#511092
>
>
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>
>
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Subject: | Re: Making an Europa pretty |
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Subject: | Re: Making an Europa pretty |
Chris,
PPG Omni is very popular here with the RV crowd in Central Florida. It doesn't
hold up well to abuse in my opinion. It is not really hard paint but goes on
easy and dries even. It is also easy to touchup.
The local airplane resellers simply use the cheapest car paint they can find.
My long-time repair facility owner and friend calls them scratch and sniff jobs.
The leading edges on the wings are gone in 5-6 years. But they got the sale.
In stead of PPG on a repair once I used a paint called Autobahn. It's German,
not expensive and I was impressed with its durability and how smooth it went
on for a guy I hired to reshoot the plane. He liked shooting paint, but not
repairs. I let him go, and now I wished I still had his number. I would have
been flying months ago. No matte what paint I use somebody always has a better
paint I should try. Opinions are like butt holes, everybody's got one.
The plane is yours and the finish coat will never meet your standards but stand
back 5-10 feet and look. If you only have a little overspray and occasional
orange peel, cut and buff the top of the wings/stabs to look nice and 90% of the
pilots will not notice any flaws. I did the sides and top of the fuselage/cowl
so the vinyl would look and stick nice. I then did the bottom of the wings
before putting on the speed kit. When Imron dries completely, boy is it hard
to cut and buff. I prefer to cut and buff Imron when it is only about 2-3
days old or the work load increases and then I get impatient and sand and push
a bit too hard and can bubble the paint. Be patient. Three coats of a high
solids paint is plenty of paint to cut and buff.
Keep it up. She will fly even better with nice smooth (ish) paint. Bugs and dirt
will wipe right off.
Bud Yerly
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com>
On Behalf Of n7188u
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2023 10:09 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Making an Europa pretty
Hi Bud, good and down to earth writeup. What you describe is what I have experienced
and have settled for. Orange peel will be there in my airplane but as I
mentioned it doesn't look that bad. Just being picky. I think that the problem
with this task is that you build unrealistic expectations by reading postings
from pros, then suffer if you can get perfect results. I learned my lesson and
things are moving a tad quicker now.
BTW, I hate this nasty paint but I bought a new forced air respirator system and
use a full suit with a full hood. Works surprisingly well. I placed the turbine
in a box with an AC blowing at it and it keeps my head and suit cold inside.
It's nice.
I have settled for spraying a thinner coat and will probably not cut and buff because
I don't want to run the risk of burning through the paint and having to
do it again (NO F WAY). The best finish so far is by applying thinner coats and
hoping it flows. But the difference between too dry and too wet is milliseconds
in speed. This morning I used my slower Iwata and I think it is a little
better. Regarding Florida heat, I am waking up at 5:30 to spray. Temp around 75F
but yes, the booth will heat up when it is curing during the day. I am using
a little retarder which helps. I could place the AC unit in the booth and turn
it on when finished spraying.
BTW, I sprayed the access covers on the plane with 24 year old PPG Durathane with
a crappy gun and it went on like a mirror. So old paints were sure much easier
to spray than todays.
So I leave you with a couple of pictures of my spray this morning. Not bad. But
I have noticed that it looks better after spray and then gets a little more orange
peely with the day heat. I'll work on getting my window AC unit installed
in the booth later today to try.
One day I will have my pretty Europa flying again, for good.
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=511098#511098
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