FEWMustang-List Digest Archive

Tue 12/30/03


Total Messages Posted: 2



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:10 PM - Primer (PolymerDesign@aol.com)
     2. 06:07 PM - Re: Primer (LRE2@aol.com)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:10:58 PM PST US
    From: PolymerDesign@aol.com
    Subject: Primer
    --> FEWMustang-List message posted by: PolymerDesign@aol.com I'm ready to start some priming of the micro, prepreg, and Aeropoxy/glass layups. My local PPG dealer is not knowledgeable of such. I know that I need to start with an epoxy primer and then move to a urethane primer but am not knowledgeable about the steps. Do I do a non -sandable epoxy primer first and then immediately move to urethane primer before wet sanding or? Also I want to spray silver topcoat but not do any buffing or polishing , so as to eliminate a clear top coat. Is this realisitc? I'm in STL area where several high class truck trailer painting booths are available. Ken


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:07:54 PM PST US
    From: LRE2@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Primer
    --> FEWMustang-List message posted by: LRE2@aol.com Ken G. My 2 cents worth. I tried several primer systems and then found the SITS POLYFIBER Waterbased polyurathane system. It eliminates the need for an epoxy base, includes a UV protection, is odorless, nontoxic, fuelproof and compatible with their topcoat, TopGloss, or Aerothane, or Imron, or most std auto paints. The primer is called SMOOTH PRIME, and can be ordered from Aircraft Spruce, or directly from the supplier, I can give you a 1-800 # You will need to fill major weave patterns and or glass defects with thin micro first. sand to #220. then, the beauty of this stuff is that if you ROLL on a couple of fairly thin coats and sand it until you think it is gone, you will have FILLED THE PINHOLES. (a big deal). then spray on 2 or three more coats, and sand to #320 and you are there. A nice characteristic of this waterbased primer, is that for the first 5-7 days (depending on temperature), it is soft and easy to sand. Then it starts getting harder and harder. Spraying on a metallic silver top coat is another matter. My paint friends tell me that this is the hardest thing to do, because getting even dispersment of the metalic fragments requires a high degree of skill. If you get everything nicely primed, A little professional help with the topcoat might be in order. LRE




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