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                           FEWMustang-List Digest Archive
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                     Total Messages Posted Tue 12/30/03: 2
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Today's Message Index:
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     1. 05:10 PM - Primer  (PolymerDesign@aol.com)
     2. 06:07 PM - Re: Primer  (LRE2@aol.com)
 
 
 
________________________________  Message 1  _____________________________________


Time: 05:10:58 PM PST US
From: PolymerDesign@aol.com
Subject: FEWMustang-List: Primer

--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: PolymerDesign@aol.com

I'm ready to start some priming of the micro, prepreg, and Aeropoxy/glass 
layups.  My local PPG dealer is not knowledgeable of such.  I know that I need
to 
start with an epoxy primer and then move to a urethane primer but am not 
knowledgeable about the steps.  Do I do a non -sandable epoxy primer first and

then immediately move to urethane primer before wet sanding or?  Also I want to

spray silver topcoat but not do any buffing or polishing , so as to eliminate a

clear top coat.  Is this realisitc?  I'm in STL area where several high class 
truck trailer painting booths are available.  Ken






________________________________  Message 2  _____________________________________


Time: 06:07:54 PM PST US
From: LRE2@aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: Primer

--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: LRE2@aol.com

Ken G.
     My 2 cents worth.   I tried several primer systems and then found the 
SITS POLYFIBER Waterbased polyurathane system.  It eliminates the need for an 
epoxy base, includes a UV protection, is odorless, nontoxic, fuelproof and 
compatible with their topcoat, TopGloss, or Aerothane, or Imron, or most std auto

paints.  
     The primer is called SMOOTH PRIME, and can be ordered from Aircraft 
Spruce, or directly from the supplier, I can give you a 1-800 #
      You will need to fill major weave patterns and or glass defects with 
thin micro first.  sand to #220.  then, the beauty of this stuff is that if you

ROLL on a couple of fairly thin coats and sand it until you think it is gone, 
you will have FILLED THE PINHOLES.  (a big deal).  then spray on 2 or three 
more coats, and sand to #320 and you are there.
      A nice characteristic of this waterbased primer, is that for the first 
5-7 days (depending on temperature), it is soft and easy to sand.  Then it 
starts getting harder and harder.
      Spraying on a metallic silver top coat is another matter.  My paint 
friends tell me that this is the hardest thing to do, because getting even 
dispersment of the metalic fragments requires a high degree of skill.  If you get

everything nicely primed, A little professional help with the topcoat might be

in order.   LRE