Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 11:37 AM - Re: sanding (LRE2@aol.com)
2. 11:56 AM - Re: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding (Harold Anderson)
3. 12:53 PM - Re: Re: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding (HMS23TURBO@aol.com)
4. 01:01 PM - Re: Re: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding (LRE2@aol.com)
5. 01:26 PM - Re: Re: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding (melvinke@direcway.com)
6. 03:16 PM - Re: FEW Mustang-List: Re: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding (Harold Anderson)
7. 04:27 PM - Re: Re: FEW Mustang-List: Re: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding (PolymerDesign@aol.com)
8. 05:22 PM - Re: Re: FEW Mustang-List: Re: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding (LRE2@aol.com)
Message 1
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--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: LRE2@aol.com
Gary,
Most of the pro painters I have talked to say that paint will nicely
fill surfaces sanded to #320, so there is little point in going any finer.
Wet sanding adds little, and need not be done until the final sanding.
However, I usually keep a wet rag handy, just to wipe down the surface that I'm
working on to remove the dust and help me see better.
You can get long rolls of adhesive backed sandpaper at your local
autobody and paint store. I find that I try to use a piece of sandpaper far to
long. When it begins to stop cutting, throw it away and get a fresh piece!
As to imbedding nuts in various surfaces, ie faring attachment, I
have developed a technique which is cheap and very durable. I think I'll write
up a little" How to" article. Jim's technique just didn't work for me. The
Book binders nuts are aluminum and strip out easily. They also tend to spin
in the holes. Ed is machining some steel "Bobbins" which look to me as though
they should work. However, you're going to need a lot of them and they will
be spendy to make.
I used steel "T-Nuts" from the hardware store, you know the ones
with the three barbs on them for pennies a piece and bonded them in using a spot
facer to remove the outer skin. LRE
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RE: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding |
--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson@msn.com>
Guys,
Hi this is Andy Anderson, I've got my fuselage about 90% complete, I
bought Ed's bobbins to use in the fairing installation but I've thought
about simply using 1/8" aluminum pull rivets to install the fairings,
for the number of times you have to remove the fairing it seems to make
more sense, if you do have to remove them simply drill them out and
replace them. The direction of airflow over the fuselage presses the
fairings on to the fuselage, so there is little or no stress in the
attachments, if there was Jims book bindings would fail long before pull
rivets would.
Any thoughts on this?
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LRE2@aol.com
Subject: FEWMustang-List: Re: sanding
--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: LRE2@aol.com
Gary,
Most of the pro painters I have talked to say that paint will
nicely
fill surfaces sanded to #320, so there is little point in going any
finer.
Wet sanding adds little, and need not be done until the final sanding.
However, I usually keep a wet rag handy, just to wipe down the surface
that I'm
working on to remove the dust and help me see better.
You can get long rolls of adhesive backed sandpaper at your
local
autobody and paint store. I find that I try to use a piece of sandpaper
far to
long. When it begins to stop cutting, throw it away and get a fresh
piece!
As to imbedding nuts in various surfaces, ie faring
attachment, I
have developed a technique which is cheap and very durable. I think
I'll write
up a little" How to" article. Jim's technique just didn't work for me.
The
Book binders nuts are aluminum and strip out easily. They also tend to
spin
in the holes. Ed is machining some steel "Bobbins" which look to me as
though
they should work. However, you're going to need a lot of them and they
will
be spendy to make.
I used steel "T-Nuts" from the hardware store, you know the
ones
with the three barbs on them for pennies a piece and bonded them in
using a spot
facer to remove the outer skin. LRE
==
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RE: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding |
--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: HMS23TURBO@aol.com
Andy,
Don't use rivets. You are going to take the fairings off many times over the
life of the plane and the rivet holes will get bigger and bigger every time
you drill them out. You're gonna end up with either huge rivets to fill the
holes eventually or repairing the used up skin. Put the bobbins in. Period. They
are stainless just like the 6-32 screws that will screw into them. Take the
time now and you'll never have an issue.
The fairings will have forces trying to peel them off in flight and aluminum
pop rivets won't be anywhere near strong enough.
Ed
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RE: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding |
--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: LRE2@aol.com
Andy, I have had my farings on and off a dozen times so far. At very least
they will need to be removed every annual to check the horizontal stab and
wing mount bolts. LRE
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RE: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding |
--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: melvinke@direcway.com
My experience with aluminum pull rivets for composite fairings has
not been good. Some will inevitably spin when drilled, particulary
as they heat up during the process, and leave a hole you can cover
again with a Tinnerman washer and new rivet, but not very
satisfying.
Ken Melvin, N51KX
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RE: FEW Mustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding |
--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson@msn.com>
Thanks for the reply everyone, I'll go with the bobbins. Ed what did you
use as a syringe to put in the adhesive?
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
HMS23TURBO@aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding
--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: HMS23TURBO@aol.com
Andy,
Don't use rivets. You are going to take the fairings off many times over
the
life of the plane and the rivet holes will get bigger and bigger every
time
you drill them out. You're gonna end up with either huge rivets to fill
the
holes eventually or repairing the used up skin. Put the bobbins in.
Period. They
are stainless just like the 6-32 screws that will screw into them. Take
the
time now and you'll never have an issue.
The fairings will have forces trying to peel them off in flight and
aluminum
pop rivets won't be anywhere near strong enough.
Ed
==
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==
==
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RE: FEW Mustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding |
--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: PolymerDesign@aol.com
Wicks handles a nice cheap plastic syringe that you can cut the tip to any
angle and size. Ken
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RE: FEW Mustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List: Re: sanding |
--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: LRE2@aol.com
I use disposable icing bags, from Aircraft Spruce P/N 01-1471
$18.20 for 100 bags. At 18 cents a bag, WAY cheaper than syringes.
And you will use lots of them. They are also very useful during wing closing.
You can make the aperture what ever you need for the current application.
LRE
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