Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:34 PM - Re: Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: (PolymerDesign@aol.com)
2. 08:06 PM - Re: Re: FEWMustang-List Digest: (Harold Anderson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: PolymerDesign@aol.com
Sorry guys I've been out of town for 6 days and just saw the questions. The
advise on the acrylic glue is correct. No prep work other than having area
clean. When applying the solvent less is better and be concerned with
orienting the crack so gravity flows any excess solvent toward the edge where crack
started. Solvent should be applied with hypodermic needle like insulin folk
use. This type of repair sort of fuses the material but is not considered a weld
like a crack is welded in steel. Joint strength is probably less than 25% 0f
the original strength. Stop drilling is good but a special 60 degree bit
MUST be used whenever drilling into Plex or Lexan. Wicks has these bits.
Normal bits produce microscopic cracks or as we engineers say 'stress risers".
To
prevent recurrance it is important to find out what caused crack to start in
first place. Most likely unless plex was scratched or had some type of notch
on the edge the crack was caused by uneven mating surface. Maybe a bump or
some sharp edge on the alum. or the mating part. Always use a bed of clear
silicone under the plex and under any mating alum. part. You can also put clear
silicone in the stop drill hole. Let canopy sit unmoved for at least 24 before
handling. That's all the advise that comes to mind. I do have an extra
canopy if needed. Ken
Message 2
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| Subject: | RE: FEWMustang-List Digest: |
--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: "Harold Anderson" <andy_lindaanderson@msn.com>
Ken,
Thanks for the advice; you are right the crack was caused by a bump. The
crack is in a non critical area of the canopy so this repair should
work. As to the 60 degree bit I have drilled all the holes in the canopy
using a standard bit, is this going to cause a problem further down the
line?
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fewmustang-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-fewmustang-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
PolymerDesign@aol.com
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEWMustang-List Digest:
--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: PolymerDesign@aol.com
Sorry guys I've been out of town for 6 days and just saw the questions.
The
advise on the acrylic glue is correct. No prep work other than having
area
clean. When applying the solvent less is better and be concerned with
orienting the crack so gravity flows any excess solvent toward the edge
where crack
started. Solvent should be applied with hypodermic needle like insulin
folk
use. This type of repair sort of fuses the material but is not
considered a weld
like a crack is welded in steel. Joint strength is probably less than
25% 0f
the original strength. Stop drilling is good but a special 60 degree
bit
MUST be used whenever drilling into Plex or Lexan. Wicks has these
bits.
Normal bits produce microscopic cracks or as we engineers say 'stress
risers". To
prevent recurrance it is important to find out what caused crack to
start in
first place. Most likely unless plex was scratched or had some type of
notch
on the edge the crack was caused by uneven mating surface. Maybe a bump
or
some sharp edge on the alum. or the mating part. Always use a bed of
clear
silicone under the plex and under any mating alum. part. You can also
put clear
silicone in the stop drill hole. Let canopy sit unmoved for at least 24
before
handling. That's all the advise that comes to mind. I do have an extra
canopy if needed. Ken
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