Today's Message Index:
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1. 01:45 PM - Re: Re: FEW Mustang-List: Re: FEW Mustang-List Digest: (Tore S. Bristol)
2. 02:26 PM - Re: Advise (LRE2@aol.com)
3. 04:57 PM - Re: Advise (PolymerDesign@aol.com)
4. 08:50 PM - Re: Advise (LRE2@aol.com)
5. 09:30 PM - Landing Gear (Cliff Hoyle)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RE: FEW Mustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List Digest: |
--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: "Tore S. Bristol" <tf51@c2i.net>
Ken,
I have finished my undercarriage some time ago, only difference; I have an
electronic sequensing and hydraulic operated downlock. I have quite a few
pictures if it will help.Let me know if I can be of any assistance. As soon
as possible as I am leaving for the states on saturday. You can also contact
me in Florida on Phone 386 758 2028, and get my E mail adress when I get
there.
I probably made some of the mistakes you like to avoid !
Regards
Tore S Bristol
----- Original Message -----
From: <PolymerDesign@aol.com>
Subject: Re: FEWMustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List: RE: FEW Mustang-List
Digest:
> --> FEWMustang-List message posted by: PolymerDesign@aol.com
>
> Andy, I would definitely recommend using RTV clear caulking. It adheres
well
> to the plex and gives a good "bed' for the plex to rest in. Also if you
ever
> have to replace the canopy you can slit the caulk with anXacto blade
without
> ruining the skirt. RTV is used to glue together aquariums without any
frame
> so its strong. Ken
>
>
Message 2
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--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: LRE2@aol.com
Ken, Are you going to use the conventional set up, or go with one of the
Dennis Turner/Bothe modified systems?
If you are going with the conventional set up, I can be of some help.
To begin with, you will need to make an access hole in the upper
skin, centered over the aft end of the trunion and the rod end, for later
adjustment of the rod end bearing and for lubrication of the trunion. I made mine
4"
sq, which is a little tight. Kem M. made his a 6" circle, which is better.
Secondly, the finger on the lock block to prevent the trunion from
being blocked.(see article in Mustang Express) you might make it just a bit
longer. 3/4-7/8". 5/8 worked fine on mine, but was just a bit short on KenMs
unit.
There are lots of other important detailswe can discuss as you come
to them. LRE
Message 3
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--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: PolymerDesign@aol.com
I am going to use theStandard setup. While Bothe's system looked simple, I
don't have a good knowledge about elctronics for later repair and mods. COuldd
you send me a pix of the access hole. I have article onlock block and will
definitely do. Ken
Message 4
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--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: LRE2@aol.com
Ken, Bothe's system was neither simple nor reliable. I'll get you some pics
of the service access hole, I want to send you pics of KenM's, because its
better than mine. It will take a couple of days, but I'll get them to you.
Another VERY IMPORTANT detail is the release of the inner door latch,
which initiates the whole mechanism. Most have had trouble adjusting the
bowden cables so that both sides released at once. If one released early, it
prevented the release of the other side. yet the nature of Bowden cables is that
they move .
I solved this problem by interposing a short, stiff spring that allowed
the lever to continue travel to the unreleased side, after the first side
released. This required a simple return spring to re cock the latch.
This GREATLY increases the reliability of the system. LRE
Message 5
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Rule breakdown below
pts rule name description
--> FEWMustang-List message posted by: "Cliff Hoyle" <c.hoyle@comcast.net>
Larry,
Would you also include me in the information on the landing gear that you are sending
Ken?
Thanks, Cliff
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