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1. 08:44 AM - EGT (Tim Juhl)
2. 09:26 AM - Re: 3300 Winter Engine Warming Requirements? (Tim Juhl)
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--> JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
I've ordered a 3300A to power the Zodiac XL that I'm building. I've sat in on
a couple of factory seminars at Sun and Fun and Oshkosh and gotten lots of tidbits
to ponder.....one relates to the monitoring of EGT's.
I understand the need to monitor CHT's of all six cylinders, but since the carb
is altitude compensating and there is no mixture control.....how important is
watching the EGT, especially of all six jugs?
I've owned a C182 and 172 and flown numerous other factory types, none of which
did more than monitor EGT on one cylinder or in the single stack coming out of
the muffler. Obviously the manufacturer did not put great importance in it.
I would use it for leaning but never really trust it as there was no guarantee
that I was reading the leanest cylinder. Other than the desire to fill the
panel with gauges and flashing lights to impress the passengers, what do you see
as the value of monitoring EGT's in this instance?
Tim Juhl
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DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Working on Flaps and Ailerons
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63580#63580
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: 3300 Winter Engine Warming Requirements? |
--> JabiruEngine-List message posted by: "Tim Juhl" <juhl@avci.net>
Allow me to add my two cents worth.....
1.) I firmly believe in preheat when the temps are below 40 F. If it is really
cold (20 F and below), I need a good reason to go flying.
2.) Use multigrade oil, at least in the winter.
3.) If you chose to leave your preheat on all the time (light bulbs, Tanis, etc.)
plan to fly the plane regularly. Oil films degrade over time if you don't
fly it. A heated engine block will contain moisture, which is more rust enhancing
that one that is at below freezing temperatures. A friend of mine just
overhauled a Continental 0-470 (230 hp) because his commercial preheater had kept
the engine warm enough to rust up the camshaft as it sat all winter.
4.) If you preheat just before you fly, give it enough time to warm the engine
thoroughly. Plug the holes in the cowl and throw an old sleeping bag over it.
Be careful if you use something that produces a flame. Remember, you don't
need the engine to be hot....temps of around 50 or so are fine.
Flying advice -
1.) once started, let it warm up a bit......I like to see the needle at the bottom
of the green on the CHT gauge before I take off. The engine should respond
smoothly to throttle changes.
2.) Avoid long reduced power descents. Start coming down earlier and keep more
power on to keep the engine warm.
3.) If oil temps are low you might consider blocking off oil coolers, or other
mods to keep the engine warmer.
What do I do to preheat?
I've used both commercial preheaters (freestanding and installed), light bulbs
and etc. What I've finally settled on is cheap and easy to use. I haven't finished
the XL yet but I'm sure I will use it there as well. For me, I believe
it is better to preheat before flight than to leave a unit on all the time.
Using parts from home depot, I attached a length of aluminum dryer hose to the
front of an electric "milk house heater." I insert the hose into the opening
in the bottom of the cowling, plug the holes and drape an old sleeping bag over
the cowl. After I turn it on I go get a cup of coffee and give it about an
hour (depending upon temperatures) and everything is toasty. The engine usually
starts up like it's a summer day.
Now.... the above is just my opinion, developed after flying thru more than 30
winters. It is certainly not the last word on the subject.
BTW....for all you guys in the south, winter flying is great! If anyone wants
a pic of my "Milk house / plane heater" please email me off list.
Tim Juhl
--------
DO NOT ARCHIVE
______________
CFII
Champ L16A flying
Zodiac XL - Working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63590#63590
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