Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 11:44 AM - alternator wire gauge (Ron Shannon)
2. 12:10 PM - Fw: [jabiruengines] Re: EGTs and fuel quality (Lynn Matteson)
3. 05:18 PM - Re: alternator wire gauge (Ivan)
4. 06:37 PM - Re: alternator wire gauge (Ron Shannon)
5. 07:18 PM - Re: alternator wire gauge (Ivan)
Message 1
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| Subject: | alternator wire gauge |
I believe Pete K. and others have commented that the 3300 alternator has
been known to put out as much as 25-28A if the battery is low enough and the
RPM is high enough. This led to the well known recommendation to dispense
with the Faston quick-tab connections at the regulator end and presumably,
at the end of the alternator's own "pigtail" as well, in favor of soldered
"hard" connections for better current carrying capability, etc.
However, the wire coming out of the alternator looks like it's only 12 AWG,
which is normally not rated for more than 20A. I realize that 12AWG will
carry more than 20A for some indeterminate amount of time, at the cost/risk
of substantial heat generation, but it gets hot enough for long enough, it's
not going to last. (Not sure what gauge the two blue wires at the regulator
are.)
Because of the potential for 25-28A loads, I would normally choose to use 10
AWG between the alternator pigtail and the regulator/ANL current limiter,
but there doesn't seem much point if the alternator pigtail is 12 AWG and
already constitutes the weak link (unintended fusible link) in the circuit
already. So the question is, what gauge is best and/or adequate between the
alternator pigtail and the regulator/ANL? The length of this additional wire
in my system will be roughly 24".
Ron
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd: [jabiruengines] Re: EGTs and fuel quality |
Begin forwarded message:
> From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
> Date: April 18, 2008 2:37:32 PM GMT-04:00
> To: jabiruengines@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [jabiruengines] Re: EGTs and fuel quality
>
> Chuck-
> You may not have another groove to move the clip to...mine only had
> one groove, but I'm serial #2062, with 40mm Bing.
> I've got the Bing Aircraft Manual (if I could put my hands on my
> copy, I'd quote it) and in it they state that you should not tune
> the engine by changing the float level. It should remain the same,
> and engine performance should be changed by changing the
> appropriate needle, jet, or needle notch setting if the carb has
> the ability to change. From what you said about changing the float
> setting for full throttle, you really should change to a larger
> main jet, not the float setting. This statement is also backed up
> by personnel at Bing via phone call. I know that guys here have
> changed the float level and gotten away with it, but they might
> have had something else wrong to begin with, and the float change
> corrected that, or they might have been too up/down to begin
> with...hard to say. I'm still learning, but I'd rather do what the
> Bing folks say, via manual or spoken word...they should know.
>
> As far as the 4" of straight is concerned, I'm not sure where I
> read/heard that, so maybe I spoke out of turn. Suffice it to say it
> should be as long as possible to really insure of straight flow.
> Here are pictures of the tube I just got done modifying, by adding
> vanes throughout its whole length of about 6", measured right down
> the center. I cut my tube lengthwise and made fiberglas vanes
> inside...quite an ordeal, but it didn't HURT the performance, but
> time and a less windy day than today will tell if it did any good.
> Whether or not it was what did it, but I can now open the throttle
> as fast as my hand will open it, and it responds NOW. Of course,
> the weather has improved since the last time I tried it, so the
> variables might have something to do with it. I also climb at a
> better rpm...now it's 2840 or so, and before it was 2750 or so, but
> that was during cold weather, so I can't really compare apples to
> apples here.
>
>
>
>
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Grass Lake, Michigan
> Kitfox IV Speedster w/Jabiru 2200
> flying w/490+ hrs
>
>
> On Apr 18, 2008, at 12:01 PM, cffd66 wrote:
>
>> Ralph,
>>
>> I recently fitted EGT's to my 2200 (#988). After the vanes on my web
>> site, I then tried a rubber radiator hose but then the EGT's showed
>> uneven temps and rough at full throttle. I then made another vaned
>> coupler 4.5 inches long (two vanes: one horizontal, one vertical)
>> with
>> the vanes 4 inches long. After an S curve, the scat hose comes
>> straight down to the coupler. The EGT's are all very close (50
>> deg) at
>> all power settings. I am still getting data and may have to richen at
>> full throttle (raise float) and then lean for cruise by lowering the
>> needle. I do not have any of the new or old Jabiru tuning kits.
>> Somewhere Lynn had told me the scat should be vertical with 4 inches
>> straight and smooth into the carby.
>>
>> Chuck D.
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: alternator wire gauge |
Ron,
What do you mean "this led to the well known recommendation" for
soldered hard connections? Who made the recommendation? Was it from
Pete K?
I have had the connections soldered and have not had any problems since.
Ivan
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Shannon
To: jabiruengine-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, April 18, 2008 11:40 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: alternator wire gauge
I believe Pete K. and others have commented that the 3300 alternator
has been known to put out as much as 25-28A if the battery is low enough
and the RPM is high enough. This led to the well known recommendation to
dispense with the Faston quick-tab connections at the regulator end and
presumably, at the end of the alternator's own "pigtail" as well, in
favor of soldered "hard" connections for better current carrying
capability, etc.
However, the wire coming out of the alternator looks like it's only 12
AWG, which is normally not rated for more than 20A. I realize that 12AWG
will carry more than 20A for some indeterminate amount of time, at the
cost/risk of substantial heat generation, but it gets hot enough for
long enough, it's not going to last. (Not sure what gauge the two blue
wires at the regulator are.)
Because of the potential for 25-28A loads, I would normally choose to
use 10 AWG between the alternator pigtail and the regulator/ANL current
limiter, but there doesn't seem much point if the alternator pigtail is
12 AWG and already constitutes the weak link (unintended fusible link)
in the circuit already. So the question is, what gauge is best and/or
adequate between the alternator pigtail and the regulator/ANL? The
length of this additional wire in my system will be roughly 24".
Ron
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: alternator wire gauge |
By "well known recommendation" I merely meant that, as I wrote, it has been
frequently discussed on this and the Yahoo list that the existing Fast-on
quick tab Molex-style connector will often get too hot & fry, so a hard
wired connection is much preferred. And yes, as I already wrote, Pete has
recommended and stated a strong preference for hard connections/splices
several times, as have others.
Ron
On Fri, Apr 18, 2008 at 5:15 PM, Ivan <imap8ntr@cox.net> wrote:
> Ron,
> What do you mean "this led to the well known recommendation" for soldered
> hard connections? Who made the recommendation? Was it from Pete K?
>
> I have had the connections soldered and have not had any problems since.
>
> Ivan
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: alternator wire gauge |
Ron
Thanks for the info. I wish I knew about this a few months ago because
it would have saved a few fried wires. The soldered connections made
everything work just great.
Ivan
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Shannon
To: jabiruengine-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, April 18, 2008 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: alternator wire gauge
By "well known recommendation" I merely meant that, as I wrote, it has
been frequently discussed on this and the Yahoo list that the existing
Fast-on quick tab Molex-style connector will often get too hot & fry, so
a hard wired connection is much preferred. And yes, as I already wrote,
Pete has recommended and stated a strong preference for hard
connections/splices several times, as have others.
Ron
On Fri, Apr 18, 2008 at 5:15 PM, Ivan <imap8ntr@cox.net> wrote:
Ron,
What do you mean "this led to the well known recommendation" for
soldered hard connections? Who made the recommendation? Was it from
Pete K?
I have had the connections soldered and have not had any problems
since.
Ivan
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