Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:43 AM - Re: Fuel Filter (Richard Girard)
2. 06:11 AM - Re: Fuel Filter (Jim Crowder)
3. 12:12 PM - Carburetor (BobbyPaulk@COMCAST.NET)
4. 03:16 PM - Re: Carburetor (Miguel Azevedo)
5. 03:55 PM - Re: Carburetor (gary aman)
6. 05:34 PM - Re: Fuel Filter (Richard Girard)
Message 1
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Lynn, et al, Be very cautious when buying the latest version of the
"Clearview" type of fuel filter. They are now marketed by several companies,
among them "Mr. Gasket". The design has been re-engineered to make them
easier to manufacture and the result is no longer suitable for any vehicle
application and certainly not aircraft IMHO.
The original Purolator filter (mine is circa 1994) had one end and the
center section machined as one piece and the center section was round which
yielded threads that gave a circular contact on the end that screwed on. Now
the center section is a flat cast piece. The parting line runs through the
center of the part and the two sides are MISALIGNED (!) so that the ends
will not stay square to it when the filter is assembled. The result is that
the o-rings get damaged and leak. In addition this new center section is
only about 1/8" (3.2mm) thick so the area of thread engagement to the
threads in the end pieces is very small.
In the original the barbed fittings were part of ends making for a bit of a
PITA since you had to buy a specific size to match the fuel line used in the
application. The new version has threaded ends and comes with a set of
plastic barbed fittings so one size fits all, however, the ends are chromed
and the "overspray" (for lack of a better term) into the first two threads
makes it necessary to chase the threads if you wish to use metal fittings.
If you wish to investigate for yourself, I recommend you remove the filter
from its packaging and inspect it right there on the store counter. If they
make you buy it first at least you won't have to make a return trip to take
it back.
Rick
On Tue, Nov 4, 2008 at 12:05 AM, Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
>
> I use Purolator in-line fuel filters in each of the down-lines from my two
> fuel tanks, and another just after the main shut-off valve. These have a
> glass see-through housing, and replaceable filters. Total of 3 filters.
> Aircraft Spruce has them, as well as some auto parts outlets. They might not
> be available as Purolators any more, but NAPA carries them in their own
> brand, and it is the same thing.
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster
> Jabiru 2200, 587hrs
> Sensenich 62x46
> flying again after rebuild, and new Electroair direct-fire ignition system
>
>
> On Nov 3, 2008, at 9:21 PM, pequeajim wrote:
>
>>
>> What are you all using for a fuel filter with your Jabiru engines?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=212186#212186
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 2
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Rick,
What filters are you now using? I'm about to replace mine.
Jim Crowder
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard
Girard
Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2008 5:43 AM
To: jabiruengine-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Fuel Filter
Lynn, et al, Be very cautious when buying the latest version of the
"Clearview" type of fuel filter. They are now marketed by several companies,
among them "Mr. Gasket". The design has been re-engineered to make them
easier to manufacture and the result is no longer suitable for any vehicle
application and certainly not aircraft IMHO.
The original Purolator filter (mine is circa 1994) had one end and the
center section machined as one piece and the center section was round which
yielded threads that gave a circular contact on the end that screwed on. Now
the center section is a flat cast piece. The parting line runs through the
center of the part and the two sides are MISALIGNED (!) so that the ends
will not stay square to it when the filter is assembled. The result is that
the o-rings get damaged and leak. In addition this new center section is
only about 1/8" (3.2mm) thick so the area of thread engagement to the
threads in the end pieces is very small.
In the original the barbed fittings were part of ends making for a bit of
a PITA since you had to buy a specific size to match the fuel line used in
the application. The new version has threaded ends and comes with a set of
plastic barbed fittings so one size fits all, however, the ends are chromed
and the "overspray" (for lack of a better term) into the first two threads
makes it necessary to chase the threads if you wish to use metal fittings.
If you wish to investigate for yourself, I recommend you remove the filter
from its packaging and inspect it right there on the store counter. If they
make you buy it first at least you won't have to make a return trip to take
it back.
Rick
On Tue, Nov 4, 2008 at 12:05 AM, Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
<lynnmatt@jps.net>
I use Purolator in-line fuel filters in each of the down-lines from my
two fuel tanks, and another just after the main shut-off valve. These have a
glass see-through housing, and replaceable filters. Total of 3 filters.
Aircraft Spruce has them, as well as some auto parts outlets. They might not
be available as Purolators any more, but NAPA carries them in their own
brand, and it is the same thing.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster
Jabiru 2200, 587hrs
Sensenich 62x46
flying again after rebuild, and new Electroair direct-fire ignition
system
On Nov 3, 2008, at 9:21 PM, pequeajim wrote:
<pequeajim@gmail.com>
What are you all using for a fuel filter with your Jabiru engines?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=212186#212186
Message 3
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List,
my 3300 Jab idles fairly good at 800 ~ 900 Rpm when i crack the throttle off idle
at about 1050 to 1300 it will puff black smoke. at 1500 rpm it will smooth
out.
has any one changed jets or needle to fix the idle and low end mixture.
i think if i change the needle jet to a smaller size then it would run too lean
at cruise.
this would call for a change in needle configuration.
i gotta do something. any help would be appreciated.
bobby
N131BP
601 XL
Message 4
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Bob,
>From an user of SU carbs in English cars:
The symptoms are of a rich mixture which comes about when you open the
butterfly (mixture mass flow control) but the slider (air valve control) is
stuck closed.
The BING carb must have - just like SUs - some sort of damping system to
preclude the slider to jerk open as you open the throttle. SUs do it via a
small reservoir filled with very light oil and a plunger. Oil can leak
through the plunger at a prescribed rate, and this controls how fast the
slider opens. I do not know how this is accomplished by BING but it is worth
some study.
If the slider is sticking, as you open the throttle fuel is sucked from the
needle well but the slider does not allow more air flow and this results in
an overly rich mixture and black smoke.
Check the slider for smooth motion from fully closed to fully open. If some
stickiness is noted, a cleaning is in order. These carbs are very, very
sensitive to dirt, dust or other miniscule things that may get in between
the slider and guide. Worst case scenario is a punctured rubber membrane
(diaphragm) which pulls the slider up. A tiny leakage will induce the
described behavior also. It will not matter greatly above a certain speed.
Do not change needles unecessarily.
Good hunting!
Miguel Azevedo
PA22/20-150
On Tue, Nov 4, 2008 at 3:10 PM, <BobbyPaulk@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> List,
> my 3300 Jab idles fairly good at 800 ~ 900 Rpm when i crack the throttle
> off idle at about 1050 to 1300 it will puff black smoke. at 1500 rpm it will
> smooth out.
> has any one changed jets or needle to fix the idle and low end mixture.
> i think if i change the needle jet to a smaller size then it would run too
> lean at cruise.
> this would call for a change in needle configuration.
> i gotta do something. any help would be appreciated.
>
> bobby
> N131BP
> 601 XL
>
>
Message 5
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Are there members on the list who are completely thrilled with the Bing 64CV? Does
anyone have any experience with an alternative?
Thanx,G.Aman 2200 Jabiru/Bing 64CV,380hrs, attached with velcro.
----- Original Message ----
From: Miguel Azevedo <azevedoflyer@gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 4, 2008 6:15:17 PM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Carburetor
Bob,
>From an user of SU carbs in English cars:
The symptoms are of a rich mixture which comes about when you open the butterfly
(mixture mass flow control) but the slider (air valve control) is stuck closed.
The BING carb must have - just like SUs - some sort of damping system to preclude
the slider to jerk open as you open the throttle. SUs do it via a small reservoir
filled with very light oil and a plunger. Oil can leak through the plunger
at a prescribed rate, and this controls how fast the slider opens. I do not
know how this is accomplished by BING but it is worth some study.
If the slider is sticking, as you open the throttle fuel is sucked from the needle
well but the slider does not allow more air flow and this results in an overly
rich mixture and black smoke.
Check the slider for smooth motion from fully closed to fully open. If some stickiness
is noted, a cleaning is in order. These carbs are very, very sensitive
to dirt, dust or other miniscule things that may get in between the slider and
guide. Worst case scenario is a punctured rubber membrane (diaphragm) which
pulls the slider up. A tiny leakage will induce the described behavior also. It
will not matter greatly above a certain speed.
Do not change needles unecessarily.
Good hunting!
Miguel Azevedo
PA22/20-150
On Tue, Nov 4, 2008 at 3:10 PM, <BobbyPaulk@comcast.net> wrote:
List,
my 3300 Jab idles fairly good at 800 ~ 900 Rpm when i crack the throttle off idle
at about 1050 to 1300 it will puff black smoke. at 1500 rpm it will smooth
out.
has any one changed jets or needle to fix the idle and low end mixture.
i think if i change the needle jet to a smaller size then it would run too lean
at cruise.
this would call for a change in needle configuration.
i gotta do something. any help would be appreciated.
bobby
N131BP
Message 6
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I have a Clearview that was sitting in my Harley parts bin when I bought the
Mr. Gasket POS, so the Mr.Gasket unit went back to the auto parts store and
the Vibraglide filter went airborne.One more thing about fuel filters. If
you live in a country subject to the Ethanol swindle as we are in the USA be
careful NOT to use any kind of fuel filter with a paper element. If water
should drop out of suspension it will coat the paper and, well, you might as
well try to fly with the fuel valve closed. This isn't just my opinion,
Rotax mentions this specifically in their manuals.
Rick
On Tue, Nov 4, 2008 at 8:11 AM, Jim Crowder <jcrowder@lpbroadband.net>wrote:
> Rick,
> What filters are you now using? I'm about to replace mine.
> Jim Crowder
>
> -----Original Message-----
> *From:* owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com]*On Behalf Of *Richard Girard
> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 04, 2008 5:43 AM
> *To:* jabiruengine-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: JabiruEngine-List: Fuel Filter
>
> Lynn, et al, Be very cautious when buying the latest version of the
> "Clearview" type of fuel filter. They are now marketed by several companies,
> among them "Mr. Gasket". The design has been re-engineered to make them
> easier to manufacture and the result is no longer suitable for any vehicle
> application and certainly not aircraft IMHO.
> The original Purolator filter (mine is circa 1994) had one end and the
> center section machined as one piece and the center section was round which
> yielded threads that gave a circular contact on the end that screwed on. Now
> the center section is a flat cast piece. The parting line runs through the
> center of the part and the two sides are MISALIGNED (!) so that the ends
> will not stay square to it when the filter is assembled. The result is that
> the o-rings get damaged and leak. In addition this new center section is
> only about 1/8" (3.2mm) thick so the area of thread engagement to the
> threads in the end pieces is very small.
> In the original the barbed fittings were part of ends making for a bit of a
> PITA since you had to buy a specific size to match the fuel line used in the
> application. The new version has threaded ends and comes with a set of
> plastic barbed fittings so one size fits all, however, the ends are chromed
> and the "overspray" (for lack of a better term) into the first two threads
> makes it necessary to chase the threads if you wish to use metal fittings.
> If you wish to investigate for yourself, I recommend you remove the filter
> from its packaging and inspect it right there on the store counter. If they
> make you buy it first at least you won't have to make a return trip to take
> it back.
>
> Rick
>
> On Tue, Nov 4, 2008 at 12:05 AM, Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> I use Purolator in-line fuel filters in each of the down-lines from my two
>> fuel tanks, and another just after the main shut-off valve. These have a
>> glass see-through housing, and replaceable filters. Total of 3 filters.
>> Aircraft Spruce has them, as well as some auto parts outlets. They might not
>> be available as Purolators any more, but NAPA carries them in their own
>> brand, and it is the same thing.
>>
>> Lynn Matteson
>> Kitfox IV Speedster
>> Jabiru 2200, 587hrs
>> Sensenich 62x46
>> flying again after rebuild, and new Electroair direct-fire ignition system
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Nov 3, 2008, at 9:21 PM, pequeajim wrote:
>>
>>> >
>>>
>>> What are you all using for a fuel filter with your Jabiru engines?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=212186#212186
>>>
>>> *href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
>>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com*
>>>
>
>
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