Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:57 AM - Re: Re: cold weather starting (John Abbott)
2. 08:09 AM - Re: Re: cold weather starting (Richard Girard)
3. 08:18 AM - Re: cold weather starting (Thom Riddle)
4. 09:20 AM - Re: Re: cold weather starting (James, Clive R)
5. 09:20 AM - Re: Re: cold weather starting (James, Clive R)
6. 09:38 AM - Re: cold weather starting (mhubel)
7. 09:52 AM - Re: cold weather starting (Thom Riddle)
8. 12:51 PM - Re: Re: cold weather starting (Keith Pickford)
9. 01:51 PM - Re: Re: cold weather starting (Peter Harris)
10. 02:14 PM - Re: cold weather starting (aussiech650)
11. 02:56 PM - Re: Radio popping (Noelloveys)
12. 06:24 PM - Problem after ground run (Michael Hilderbrand)
13. 07:14 PM - Re: Problem after ground run (Peter Harris)
14. 08:28 PM - Re: Radio popping (Michael Hilderbrand)
15. 08:34 PM - Re: Problem after ground run (Michael Hilderbrand)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: cold weather starting |
Hi Folks,
I have meticulously followed the cold weather start procedure in the manual
(A 2200 - 21 hours) and tried several of the ideas expressed on this web
site but none have created a consistent and sustainable cold start. After
growing weary of my complaining, a friend suggested giving the engine a 2
second burst of ether based starting spray through the air filter ( $2.35 a
can at your local automotive store) . First test was a cold (41F) damp day.
It started "instantly". All subsequent starts have had the same outcome.
Two things I don't know are:
1. Is there a temperature below which it won't start? I may find out when
the arctic air hits Michigan.
2. I don't know if there is any long term damage potential to the engine,
seals, air filter, etc..
Depending upon the results this winter, I will come up with a simple method
to inject the spray through the air filter from the cockpit and incorporate
it into the startup procedure. What are your thoughts?
John Abbott
Kolb MX3
----- Original Message -----
From: "ces308" <ces308@ldaco.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 9:45 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: cold weather starting
>
> Hello All...
>
> Success !!!! I adjusted the coils to .020,cleaned everything up...and
> away she went....38* today and even with no choke it started right up !
>
> Thank you all for your help !
>
> chris ambrose
> Kolb M3X / Jab A- 2200 74. hrs
> N327CS
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269000#269000
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: cold weather starting |
I use starting fluid a lot on equipment around the farm. A two second burst
is too much, less than a second long blast is all that should be needed.Ether
will strip the oil out of your air filter and decrease its effectiveness.
Personally, I have no problem using it on a string trimmer or mower, but an
airplane engine, no way. Too pricey if something goes wrong. MHO.
Rick Girard
On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 9:55 AM, John Abbott <jacksbird@charter.net> wrote:
> jacksbird@charter.net>
>
> Hi Folks,
> I have meticulously followed the cold weather start procedure in the manual
> (A 2200 - 21 hours) and tried several of the ideas expressed on this web
> site but none have created a consistent and sustainable cold start. After
> growing weary of my complaining, a friend suggested giving the engine a 2
> second burst of ether based starting spray through the air filter ( $2.35 a
> can at your local automotive store) . First test was a cold (41F) damp day.
> It started "instantly". All subsequent starts have had the same outcome.
> Two things I don't know are:
> 1. Is there a temperature below which it won't start? I may find out when
> the arctic air hits Michigan.
> 2. I don't know if there is any long term damage potential to the engine,
> seals, air filter, etc..
>
> Depending upon the results this winter, I will come up with a simple method
> to inject the spray through the air filter from the cockpit and incorporate
> it into the startup procedure. What are your thoughts?
>
> John Abbott
> Kolb MX3
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "ces308" <ces308@ldaco.com>
> To: <jabiruengine-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 9:45 PM
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: cold weather starting
>
>
>>
>> Hello All...
>>
>> Success !!!! I adjusted the coils to .020,cleaned everything up...and
>> away she went....38* today and even with no choke it started right up !
>>
>> Thank you all for your help !
>>
>> chris ambrose
>> Kolb M3X / Jab A- 2200 74. hrs
>> N327CS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269000#269000
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: cold weather starting |
John,
Sounds to me like your Bing carb enricher circuit or the starting circuit is not quite right, as in probably lean. I say lean because you are essentially priming the engine with "starting fluid" which results in an instant start. I would say it is time for you to do a carb tear-down, inspection and cleaning with selective replacement of seals or other worn parts. If might even find that the jets are not the correct number. If you don't have one I suggest you purchase the Bing manual from http://www.bingcarburetor.com/manual.html Last time I bought one it was $10 including shipping in the USA.
When the Bing carb is right I've never had any problem starting in cold or hot
weather with the recommend starting procedure on any airplane I've owned with
Bing carbs, which includes three with Rotax 912 engines and my current Jabiru
2200A.
http://riddletr.googlepages.com/a%26pmechanix
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x31
A complex system that works is invariably found to have evolved from a simple system
that works.
- John Gaule
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269086#269086
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| Subject: | Re: cold weather starting |
In the UK over 4 different Jabiru engines I'd say we have the starting
problems at 2C and below even if everything else is hunky dory.
Needs to have been that cold overnight and generally a cold spell during
the day to spoil ones plans for a day out.
CJ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Abbott
Sent: 23 October 2009 15:56
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Re: cold weather starting
--> <jacksbird@charter.net>
Hi Folks,
I have meticulously followed the cold weather start procedure in the
manual (A 2200 - 21 hours) and tried several of the ideas expressed on
this web site but none have created a consistent and sustainable cold
start. After growing weary of my complaining, a friend suggested giving
the engine a 2 second burst of ether based starting spray through the
air filter ( $2.35 a can at your local automotive store) . First test
was a cold (41F) damp day.
It started "instantly". All subsequent starts have had the same
outcome.
Two things I don't know are:
1. Is there a temperature below which it won't start? I may find out
when the arctic air hits Michigan.
2. I don't know if there is any long term damage potential to the
engine, seals, air filter, etc..
Depending upon the results this winter, I will come up with a simple
method to inject the spray through the air filter from the cockpit and
incorporate it into the startup procedure. What are your thoughts?
John Abbott
Kolb MX3
----- Original Message -----
From: "ces308" <ces308@ldaco.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 9:45 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: cold weather starting
>
> Hello All...
>
> Success !!!! I adjusted the coils to .020,cleaned everything
up...and
> away she went....38* today and even with no choke it started right up
!
>
> Thank you all for your help !
>
> chris ambrose
> Kolb M3X / Jab A- 2200 74. hrs
> N327CS
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269000#269000
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: cold weather starting |
Thom, cold starting problem is a typical issue with Jabiru engine with
Bing carby's as supplied by Jabiru, both 3300 and 2200.
Folk with new different carbs don't need to reply how well the fandango
Slurpo throttle works well and we should all change our crappy Bings,
cause I'm too tight and it's the only issue where the Bing isn't doing
what most of us want it to do.
Basic manual attached which is the same as the one hidden in the Jab
technical manual though not Jab specific.
I'm convinced everything else aside (plugs, gap, coil gap, battery
charge/temperature/condition etc etc) that the starting carburettor
jet/system doesn't make the engine rich enough to start easily and plan
to drill out the small 'pea' jet that feeds the starting carburettor as
soon as the UK get's into the non starting temperature range (another
month or so yet).
I have to say I'm not overly convinced that different oil viscosities
are an issue unless you are in the extremes and if you are sump heating
would be needed anyhow. The oil pump is small compared to dragging
pistons and cranks and creating compression.
Will let everyone know how I get on when the cold weather arrives such
that my little Jabs won't start. I know that several folk have had
success with a small drill and a magnifying glass.
Regards, Clive
Jabiru 2200 in an SP and Esqual with a 3300
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thom
Riddle
Sent: 23 October 2009 16:18
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: cold weather starting
--> <riddletr@gmail.com>
John,
Sounds to me like your Bing carb enricher circuit or the starting
circuit is not quite right, as in probably lean. I say lean because you
are essentially priming the engine with "starting fluid" which results
in an instant start. I would say it is time for you to do a carb
tear-down, inspection and cleaning with selective replacement of seals
or other worn parts. If might even find that the jets are not the
correct number. If you don't have one I suggest you purchase the Bing
manual from http://www.bingcarburetor.com/manual.html Last time I bought
one it was $10 including shipping in the USA.
When the Bing carb is right I've never had any problem starting in cold
or hot weather with the recommend starting procedure on any airplane
I've owned with Bing carbs, which includes three with Rotax 912 engines
and my current Jabiru 2200A.
http://riddletr.googlepages.com/a%26pmechanix
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x31
A complex system that works is invariably found to have evolved from a
simple system that works.
- John Gaule
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269086#269086
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: cold weather starting |
I will add that in 25 years of operating aircraft engines in the winter, my rule
was unconditionally to preheat if the temperature even approached freezing.
While one would expect an aircraft engine to start at 40F, that may be the lower
limit if you want to be nice to the cylinders. Many engine manuals have a lower
limit around 20F at which starting without heat is prohibited.
It would seem that having to use spray to start is just hiding something else
like the Bing not being capable of starting over a really wide temperature range.
Also using ether in a closed engine cowling may be a questionable thing.
If you think a little spilled gas is flammable, it is nothing compared to some
ether that leaked into the wrong place. Usually when you are using this stuff
it is on a vehicle with the hood open so at least it is well vented.
--------
Mark Hubelbank
N708HU
CH601XL
Jabiru 3300
Rotec TBI 40 carb
Sensenich ground adj prop.
28 hr TAF
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269109#269109
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: cold weather starting |
Perhaps the relatively balmy UK winters cause problems for the Bings but I've never
had any such problem starting the Rotax 912 engines with Bing 64 carbs standard
enricher and standard starting procedures in Buffalo, New York winters.
I've only recently acquired my Kolb with Jabiru 2200A and Bing 94/40 carb. It has
started with no issues in the high 30s(F) (3-4C) so far this fall. I plan to
store the airplane this winter but will attempt starting it with the winter
storage oil (Aeroshell 2-F preservative oil) sometime after it gets cold here.
I don't expect any trouble but won't know until I try it. I'll report back when
the temps get down well below freezing.
http://riddletr.googlepages.com/a%26pmechanix
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x31
A complex system that works is invariably found to have evolved from a simple system
that works.
- John Gaule
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269113#269113
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: cold weather starting |
We have found that if the battery is 2 years old it loses its edge but if y
ou jump from an additional battery-it starts first time. Some here have p
ut an external plug on the outside so you can plug in a battery without rem
oving the cowls. The coils require 300 ? revs to produce a spark. Also make
sure the throttle is closed and full choke. We also pull through about 6 c
ompressions (with choke on) before trying to start.
-
Regards
Keith
--- On Sat, 24/10/09, James, Clive R <clive.james@uk.bp.com> wrote:
From: James, Clive R <clive.james@uk.bp.com>
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Re: cold weather starting
Received: Saturday, 24 October, 2009, 5:16 AM
p.com>
In the UK over 4 different Jabiru engines I'd say we have the starting
problems at 2C and below even if everything else is hunky dory.
Needs to have been that cold overnight and generally a cold spell during
the day to spoil ones plans for a day out.
CJ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Abbott
Sent: 23 October 2009 15:56
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Re: cold weather starting
--> <jacksbird@charter.net>
Hi Folks,
I have meticulously followed the cold weather start procedure in the
manual (A 2200 - 21 hours) and tried several of the ideas expressed on
this web site but none have created a consistent and sustainable cold
start. After growing weary of my complaining, a friend suggested giving
the engine a 2 second burst of ether based starting spray through the
air filter ( $2.35 a can at your local automotive store) . First test
was a cold (41F) damp day.
It started "instantly".- All subsequent starts have had the same
outcome.
Two things I don't know are:
1. Is there a temperature below which it won't start? I may find out
when the arctic air hits Michigan.
2. I don't know if there is any long term damage potential to the
engine, seals, air filter, etc..
Depending upon the results this winter, I will come up with a simple
method to inject the spray through the air filter from the cockpit and
incorporate it into the startup procedure. What are your thoughts?
John Abbott
Kolb MX3
----- Original Message -----
From: "ces308" <ces308@ldaco.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 9:45 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: cold weather starting
>
> Hello All...
>
> Success !!!!---I adjusted the coils to .020,cleaned everything
up...and
> away she went....38* today and even with no choke it started right up
!
>
> Thank you all for your help !
>
> chris ambrose
> Kolb M3X / Jab A- 2200- 74. hrs
> N327CS
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269000#269000
>
>
>
le, List Admin.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: cold weather starting |
One of the Jab engineers told me that it needs 300RPM to make a fat enough
spark. Need a good battery and short leads and make sure the starter motor
is separately earthed to achieve 300RPM.
The point is that the magnetos come from an application in a stationary
engine and meant to fire 1 plug direct not 4 or 6 via a distributor.
Under cold conditions these factors count.
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Abbott
Sent: Saturday, 24 October 2009 12:56 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Re: cold weather starting
<jacksbird@charter.net>
Hi Folks,
I have meticulously followed the cold weather start procedure in the manual
(A 2200 - 21 hours) and tried several of the ideas expressed on this web
site but none have created a consistent and sustainable cold start. After
growing weary of my complaining, a friend suggested giving the engine a 2
second burst of ether based starting spray through the air filter ( $2.35 a
can at your local automotive store) . First test was a cold (41F) damp day.
It started "instantly". All subsequent starts have had the same outcome.
Two things I don't know are:
1. Is there a temperature below which it won't start? I may find out when
the arctic air hits Michigan.
2. I don't know if there is any long term damage potential to the engine,
seals, air filter, etc..
Depending upon the results this winter, I will come up with a simple method
to inject the spray through the air filter from the cockpit and incorporate
it into the startup procedure. What are your thoughts?
John Abbott
Kolb MX3
----- Original Message -----
From: "ces308" <ces308@ldaco.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 9:45 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: cold weather starting
>
> Hello All...
>
> Success !!!! I adjusted the coils to .020,cleaned everything up...and
> away she went....38* today and even with no choke it started right up !
>
> Thank you all for your help !
>
> chris ambrose
> Kolb M3X / Jab A- 2200 74. hrs
> N327CS
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269000#269000
>
>
>
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
18:44:00
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| Subject: | Re: cold weather starting |
I would highly recommend that you do not use Ether starting fluids on your aero
engine for several reasons.
Ether start will dilute the residual oil film on your valve stems, cylinders pistons
and rings. The dilution of this oil film at the most critical time for your
engine when the clearances are tight due to contraction of the metal in cold
weather results in very high levels of wear. You may have heard people say
that engines become addicted to ether starting fluids, this is simply due to components
wearing to such an extent that the engine performance is reduced to
the point where starting is almost impossible without the use of ether when the
engine is cold and the ring pressure on the cylinder walls is reduced.
The second reason is that the use of Ether starting fluids results in uncontrolled
combustion and this is by far the most dangerous to your engine and you. This
uncontrolled combustion can break pistons and piston rings , damage bearings,
connecting rods and the crankshaft. Unfortunately engine failures that occur
as a result of ether starting fluid rarely become evident immediately after
the engine starts, the failures occur when the damaged component fails under
heavy load, ie full throttle.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269156#269156
Message 11
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Michael:
If you find the popping frequency increases with rpm then your problem
is most probably a bad ground in your audio section. Audio connecting
lines should only be shield grounded at the feed end never at
both ends. The grounds do however need to be very clean. You will
find, as I have, better than 90% of interference problems in aircraft
are caused by poor grounding somewhere. The trick is to figure out
where.
If you find the popping does not increase with throttle then the
possibility is a heavy capacitor of sufficient voltage across the DC
buss on your radios should cure it.
In the meantime the R582 engine ( you may have one) is a bit of an
oddball in that it is recommended to use both resistor caps (5K Ohm) and
5K Ohm plugs.
Noel
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Michael Hilderbrand
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Radio popping
Noel,
I could not appreciate if the popping changes rate with RPM during the
ground running operations. My attention was really focused on RPM, EGT,
and CHTs at the time (trying to fine-tune an Aerocarb for first flight
operation). At the time I was aggressively changing RPM but was on the
local frequency - traffic transmissions were too short in nature to
notice a change in popping. When no one is transmitting everything is
normal.
I will listen to ATIS continuously on Friday while running the engine
and report back.
Thanks!
Michael Hilderbrand
Derby, KS
www.kansasflying.com <http://www.kansasflying.com/>
_____
From: Noelloveys <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 11:48:06 AM
Subject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Radio popping
This is Thursday morning so I=99m taking a chanced you
haven=99t gotten any answers or even a fix yet.
First thing is, does the popping change rate with the rpm of the engine?
Noel
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Michael Hilderbrand
Sent: Monday, October 19, 2009 11:20 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Radio popping
Hey guys,
I am doing some initial ground rounds with my Jab3300 engine and was
noticing a popping noise in the headsets - while receiving ONLY. The
popping noise is pretty bad. At first I thought is might have been the
other aircraft's radio (flying in the pattern), but after tuning to a
local ATIS I got the same popping sound. I am just trying to see if it
might be something obvious, something that one of you might have
experienced as well? It does not happen when the engine is not running.
I am thinking that maybe I should start out by buying resistor plugs?
I am NOT an electrical person at all... but I did try to wire per the
Aeroelectric manual.
Any thoughts?
Michael Hilderbrand
Derby, Kansas
<http://www.kansasflying.com/> Http://www.kansasflying.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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Message 12
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| Subject: | Problem after ground run |
Hi everyone, =0A=0AToday-during another ground run to adjust the-aeroca
rb (on the Jab3300A) my father and-I noticed a-rattling sound.- After
turning the prop-over-by hand-I noticed a "clonk" sound during compr
ession of the-#6 cylinder.- Looks like there will be NO first flight an
ytime-soon :(- =0A=0AI am scared that maybe the # 6 overheated.- Even
though I kill the engine when the CHT gets close to max, they still seem t
o creep up past max - delayed response. I am hoping a brief period over 356
F would not cause major damage.- Also to note: there is some spotted are
as of "crumpling" of the cylinder coating (kind of like painting over an ar
ea contaminated by another chemical).- =0A=0AI am debating-WHAT the hec
k to-do?--Should I tear this down myself or send it back to TN for re
pairs. Any thought?- Here is a link to a Youtube video I made while out t
here=0A=0Ahttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22z4HvFkfbc=0A=0A-Michael Hild
erbrand=0ADerby, Kansas=0AHttp://www.kansasflying.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Problem after ground run |
Michael,
I had an incidence of a dropped valve during a very short run at over T. The
valve insert was hammered into the cylinder. Luckily there is plenty of
space above the top of the piston. It is an easy job to remove the head but
first have a look at the tappets to see if there is excess clearance on #6.
Peter
_____
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Hilderbrand
Sent: Saturday, 24 October 2009 11:23 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Problem after ground run
Hi everyone,
Today during another ground run to adjust the aerocarb (on the Jab3300A) my
father and I noticed a rattling sound. After turning the prop over by hand
I noticed a "clonk" sound during compression of the #6 cylinder. Looks like
there will be NO first flight anytime soon :(
I am scared that maybe the # 6 overheated. Even though I kill the engine
when the CHT gets close to max, they still seem to creep up past max -
delayed response. I am hoping a brief period over 356 F would not cause
major damage. Also to note: there is some spotted areas of "crumpling" of
the cylinder coating (kind of like painting over an area contaminated by
another chemical).
I am debating WHAT the heck to do? Should I tear this down myself or send
it back to TN for repairs. Any thought? Here is a link to a Youtube video I
made while out there
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22z4HvFkfbc>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22z4HvFkfbc
Michael Hilderbrand
Derby, Kansas
<http://www.kansasflying.com/> Http://www.kansasflying.com
14:09:00
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Radio popping |
Noel, =0A=0AYes!=C2- It does increase with RPM.=C2- I was looking at=C2
-my mag wires today and noticed that I=C2-made a pigtail from the shiel
d material in the wire (side connected to engine) and grounded this=C2-to
the firewall ground -=C2-all my grounds connect eventually.=C2- The=C2
-panel ground leads to the firewall ground - which leads to the neg batte
ry.=C2- I did not shield any of the wires to or from my com radio - the i
nstructions did not mention it, anyways..=C2- something to look at I gues
s.=0A=0AThanks! =0A=C2-Michael Hilderbrand=0ADerby, Kansas=0AHttp://www.k
ansasflying.com =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Noe
lloveys <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>=0ATo: jabiruengine-list@matronics.com=0ASent:
Friday, October 23, 2009 7:25:28 PM=0ASubject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Radi
o popping=0A=0A=0AMichael:=0A=C2-=0AIf you find the popping frequency inc
reases with rpm then your problem is most probably a bad ground in your aud
io section.=C2- Audio connecting lines should only be shield grounded at
the feed end never at both ends.=C2- The grounds do however need
to be very clean.=C2- You will find, as I have, better than 90% of inter
ference problems in aircraft are caused by poor grounding somewhere.=C2-
The trick is to figure out where.=0A=C2-=0AIf you find the popping does n
ot increase with throttle then the possibility is a heavy capacitor of suff
icient voltage across the DC buss on your radios should cure it.=0A=C2-
=0AIn the meantime the R582 engine ( you may have one) is a bit of an oddba
ll in that it is recommended to use both resistor caps (5K Ohm) and 5K Ohm
plugs.=0A=C2-=0ANoel=0A=C2-=0AFrom:owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matro
nics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Michael Hilderbrand=0ASent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 6:04 PM=0ATo: jabir
uengine-list@matronics.com=0ASubject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Radio popping
=0A=C2-=0ANoel, =0A=C2-=0AI could not appreciate=C2-if the popping ch
anges rate with RPM during the ground running operations.=C2- My attentio
n was really focused on RPM, EGT, and CHTs=C2-at the time (trying to fine
-tune an Aerocarb for first flight operation).=C2- At the time I was aggr
essively changing RPM but was on the local frequency - traffic transmission
s were too short in nature to notice a change in popping.=C2-When no one
is transmitting everything is=C2-normal. =0A=C2-=0AI will listen to ATI
S continuously on Friday while running the engine and report back. =0A=0ATh
anks!=0A=C2-=0AMichael Hilderbrand=0ADerby, KS=0Awww.kansasflying.com=0A
=C2-=0A=C2- =0A=C2-=0A=0A________________________________=0A=0A=C2-
=0AFrom: Noelloveys <noelloveys@yahoo.ca>=0ATo: jabiruengine-list@matronics
.com=0ASent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 11:48:06 AM=0ASubject: RE: JabiruEn
gine-List: Radio popping=0AThis is Thursday morning so I=99m taking a
chanced you haven=99t gotten any answers=C2- or even a fix yet.=C2
- =0A=C2-=0AFirst thing is, does the popping change rate with the rpm o
f the engine? =0A=C2-=0ANoel=0A=C2-=0A=C2-=0AFrom:owner-jabiruengine-
list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.
com] On Behalf Of Michael Hilderbrand=0ASent: Monday, October 19, 2009 11:2
0 AM=0ATo: jabiruengine-list@matronics.com=0ASubject: JabiruEngine-List: Ra
dio popping=0A=C2-=0AHey guys, =0A=C2-=0AI am doing some initial ground
rounds with my Jab3300 engine and was noticing a=C2-popping noise in the
headsets=C2- - while receiving ONLY.=C2-=C2-The popping noise=C2-i
s pretty bad.=C2- At first I thought is might have=C2-been the other ai
rcraft's radio (flying in the pattern), but after tuning to a local ATIS I
=C2-got the same popping sound.=C2-=C2- I=C2-am just trying to see
if it might be something obvious, something=C2-that one of you might have
experienced as well?=C2- It does not happen when the engine is not runni
ng.=C2-=C2-I am thinking that maybe I should start out by buying resist
or plugs?=C2- I am NOT an electrical person at all... but I did try to wi
re per the Aeroelectric manual.=C2- =0A=C2-=0AAny thoughts?=C2-=C2-
=0A=C2-=0AMichael Hilderbrand=0ADerby, Kansas=0AHttp://www.kansasflying.c
om =0A=C2-=C2-=0A =C2-=0A =C2-=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator
?JabiruEngine-List=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com
/contribution=0A =C2-=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Na=======
================= _ms.matronics.com/" tar
get=_blank rel=nofollow>http://forums.matronics.cwww.matronics.com/cont
ribution" target=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.m=======
============== =0A =C2-=0A =C2-=0Ahttp://ww
w.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com
==============
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Problem after ground run |
I was wondering-how "easy" it would be to remove a jug, or just the head.
-- My father was thinking maybe a circlip, valve, or messed up-ring b
eing the culprit-(?).---=0A=0AI plan on calling Pete Monday.- =0A
=0AMichael Hilderbrand=0ADerby, Kansas=0AHttp://www.kansasflying.com =0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Peter Harris <peterjfharr
is@bigpond.com>=0ATo: jabiruengine-list@matronics.com=0ASent: Friday, Octob
er 23, 2009 9:13:58 PM=0ASubject: RE: JabiruEngine-List: Problem after grou
nd run=0A=0A=0AMichael,=0AI had an incidence of a dropped valve during a ve
ry short run at over T. The valve insert was hammered into the cylinder. Lu
ckily there is plenty of space above the top of the piston. It is an easy j
ob to remove the head but first have a look at the tappets to see if there
is excess clearance on #6.=0APeter=0A=0A________________________________=0A
=0AFrom:owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-jabiruen
gine-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Hilderbrand=0ASent: Sa
turday, 24 October 2009 11:23 AM=0ATo: jabiruengine-list@matronics.com=0ASu
bject: JabiruEngine-List: Problem after ground run=0A-=0AHi everyone, =0A
-=0AToday-during another ground run to adjust the-aerocarb (on the Ja
b3300A) my father and-I noticed a-rattling sound.- After turning the
prop-over-by hand-I noticed a "clonk" sound during compression of the
-#6 cylinder.- Looks like there will be NO first flight anytime-soon
:(- =0A-=0AI am scared that maybe the # 6 overheated.- Even though I
kill the engine when the CHT gets close to max, they still seem to creep up
past max - delayed response. I am hoping a brief period over 356 F would n
ot cause major damage.- Also to note: there is some spotted areas of "cru
mpling" of the cylinder coating (kind of like painting over an area contami
nated by another chemical).- =0A-=0AI am debating-WHAT the heck to-
do?--Should I tear this down myself or send it back to TN for repairs.
Any thought?- Here is a link to a Youtube video I made while out there=0A
-=0Ahttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22z4HvFkfbc=0A=0A-=0AMichael Hilde
rbrand=0ADerby , Kansas=0AHttp://www.kansasflying.com =0A=0A-=0A -=0A
-=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List=0Ahttp://forums.
matronics.com=0Ahttp://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A -No virus found
in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 270.14.20/2444 - Rel
=========================0A
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