Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:57 AM - Re: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE (selwyn)
2. 03:59 AM - Re: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE (Naftali Horowitz)
3. 05:53 AM - Re: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE (Ellery Batchelder Jr)
4. 06:59 AM - Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 02/28/10 (Gordon Arbeitman)
5. 07:19 AM - Re: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE (MHerder)
6. 07:36 AM - Re: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 02/28/10 (Robert Rivard)
7. 07:37 AM - Re: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE (Lynn Matteson)
8. 07:39 AM - Re: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 02/28/10 (Lynn Matteson)
9. 08:11 AM - Re: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE (tonyplane)
10. 08:12 AM - Re: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE (MHerder)
11. 09:43 AM - Re: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE (Lynn Matteson)
12. 03:35 PM - Re: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE (Roger Lee)
13. 11:05 PM - Official JabiruEngine-List FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) (Matt Dralle)
14. 11:12 PM - Official JabiruEngine-List Usage Guidelines (Matt Dralle)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE |
Don't know what a good machinist would do, but I'd get a mate with a big screwdriver
in the ring gear to stop the crank turning and allow you to get some purchase
on the stud. You could also apply some heat as before.
--------
Cheers, Selwyn
Kit 66
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288712#288712
Message 2
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| Subject: | STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE |
You can grab the crank with a pipe wrench and a rag in between.
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE
> From: michaelherder@beckgroup.com
> Date: Sun=2C 28 Feb 2010 21:31:51 -0800
> To: jabiruengine-list@matronics.com
>
up.com>
>
> Guys I'm having a really crappy night.
>
>
> This evening I decided to prepare for the final installation of my 2.5" p
rop hub extension on my 3300. In strict accordance with the service bulleti
ns I heated the flange and bolts while protecting the rubber seals with a w
et rag and I safely removed all six bolts. SUCCESS... I thought.
>
>
> I thouroghly removed all of the loctite with a dental pick=2C then aceton
e on the female side. I then used a steel brush and cleaned the female thre
ads. I then cleaned the bolts with a wire brush on a wheel. Acetone 3 or fo
ur more times=2C cleaning very thuroghtly=2C making sure not to get oils fr
om my hands on the bolts. Cleaning=2C blowing with compressed air=2C aceton
e repeat... Maybe even too many times=2C but I was determined to not screw
this up!!!.
>
> As a final check I decided to make sure that all was well and hand screwe
d the bolt in to make sure that it went in smoothly. I used the same bolt o
n three holes and it went in pretty dang smooth. The third one was nearly a
ll the way in (about 1/8" less than all the way in (simulating prop flange
thickness)) and then it got stuck!! I thought surely it can't really be stu
ck=2C I'm not cross threaded and it went in smooth. So I got out my wrench
to back it out. Now it's stuck enough that it turns over the engine and I d
on't have the prop flange on so it's tricky to keep the engine from turning
over.
>
> I only have two theories as to how this could have happened.
>
> 1) A little bit of steel from my brush has lodged itself in between the t
hreads???
>
> 2) The cleaning action of my steel brush rounded off the threads a bit an
d is causing an extremely tight fit?
>
> 3) The loctite 620 that I thought was completely cleaned off was actually
still there in a residual form and the acetone that I thought was dry was
still a little wet and reactivated the 620?? This one is a long shot. As I
really cleaned these puppies.
>
> I need help and worst case scenarios here. I am going to have nightmares
about having to replace a crankshaft on account of this.
>
> What would a good machinist do to get this thing out?
>
> --------
> One Rivet at a Time!
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288699#288699
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
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Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE |
I cant help but to tell you to " FIRE " your mechanic ...........Doesn't
that Crank shaft have Threaded inserts Pushed into that Crankflange if
so you could cut the bolt get everything out of your way and push that
Treaded insert out of the Crank and install a new one
Ellery Batchelder Jr.
-----Original Message-----
From: MHerder <michaelherder@beckgroup.com>
Sent: Mon, Mar 1, 2010 12:31 am
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE
p.com>
Guys I'm having a really crappy night.
his evening I decided to prepare for the final installation of my 2.5" pro
p hub
xtension on my 3300. In strict accordance with the service bulletins I he
ated
he flange and bolts while protecting the rubber seals with a wet rag and
I
afely removed all six bolts. SUCCESS... I thought.
thouroghly removed all of the loctite with a dental pick, then acetone
on the
emale side. I then used a steel brush and cleaned the female threads. I
then
leaned the bolts with a wire brush on a wheel. Acetone 3 or four more time
s,
leaning very thuroghtly, making sure not to get oils from my hands on the
olts. Cleaning, blowing with compressed air, acetone repeat... Maybe even
too
any times, but I was determined to not screw this up!!!.
As a final check I decided to make sure that all was well and hand screwe
d the
olt in to make sure that it went in smoothly. I used the same bolt on thr
ee
oles and it went in pretty dang smooth. The third one was nearly all the
way
n (about 1/8" less than all the way in (simulating prop flange thickness))
and
hen it got stuck!! I thought surely it can't really be stuck, I'm not cro
ss
hreaded and it went in smooth. So I got out my wrench to back it out. No
w
t's stuck enough that it turns over the engine and I don't have the prop
flange
n so it's tricky to keep the engine from turning over.
I only have two theories as to how this could have happened.
1) A little bit of steel from my brush has lodged itself in between the
hreads???
2) The cleaning action of my steel brush rounded off the threads a bit
and is
ausing an extremely tight fit?
3) The loctite 620 that I thought was completely cleaned off was actually
still
here in a residual form and the acetone that I thought was dry was still
a
ittle wet and reactivated the 620?? This one is a long shot. As I really
leaned these puppies.
I need help and worst case scenarios here. I am going to have nightmares
about
aving to replace a crankshaft on account of this.
What would a good machinist do to get this thing out?
--------
ne Rivet at a Time!
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288699#288699
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 02/28/10 |
Michael;
Keep the engine from turning by finding the cylinder that is near TDC
on its compression stroke and feed some 1/4 inch nylon rope into the
spark plug hole. Make sure the piston is moving up as the engine
rotates when you try to loosen the bolt, before inserting the rope. Put
in as much rope as will fit. Then slowly rotate the stuck bolt until
the engine locks up.
Now, get a hand impact tool and use it to remove the bolt.
Rotate the engine in the opposite direction and remove the rope.
Then get a good light and figure out what happened. Please let us know
how you make out.
JabiruEngine-List Digest Server wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete JabiruEngine-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the JabiruEngine-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 10-02-28&Archive=JabiruEngine
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 10-02-28&Archive=JabiruEngine
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> JabiruEngine-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Sun 02/28/10: 2
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 07:54 PM - Engine Weight Comparison - Jabiru 3300 To Rotax 912 ULS (david
van lanen)
> 2. 09:32 PM - STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE (MHerder)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 07:54:28 PM PST US
> From: "david van lanen" <davevanlanen@sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Engine Weight Comparison - Jabiru 3300 To Rotax 912
> ULS
>
> Has anyone compared the installed "wet" weight of a Jabiru 3300 to a Rotax
> 912 ULS, and if so, can you give me an approximate weight difference?
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Van Lanen
> Madison, WI
>
> ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
>
>
> Time: 09:32:51 PM PST US
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE
> From: "MHerder" <michaelherder@beckgroup.com>
>
>
> Guys I'm having a really crappy night.
>
>
> This evening I decided to prepare for the final installation of my 2.5" prop
hub
> extension on my 3300. In strict accordance with the service bulletins I heated
> the flange and bolts while protecting the rubber seals with a wet rag and
> I safely removed all six bolts. SUCCESS... I thought.
>
>
> I thouroghly removed all of the loctite with a dental pick, then acetone on
the
> female side. I then used a steel brush and cleaned the female threads. I then
> cleaned the bolts with a wire brush on a wheel. Acetone 3 or four more times,
> cleaning very thuroghtly, making sure not to get oils from my hands on the
> bolts. Cleaning, blowing with compressed air, acetone repeat... Maybe even
> too many times, but I was determined to not screw this up!!!.
>
> As a final check I decided to make sure that all was well and hand screwed the
> bolt in to make sure that it went in smoothly. I used the same bolt on three
> holes and it went in pretty dang smooth. The third one was nearly all the way
> in (about 1/8" less than all the way in (simulating prop flange thickness))
> and then it got stuck!! I thought surely it can't really be stuck, I'm not cross
> threaded and it went in smooth. So I got out my wrench to back it out. Now
> it's stuck enough that it turns over the engine and I don't have the prop flange
> on so it's tricky to keep the engine from turning over.
>
> I only have two theories as to how this could have happened.
>
> 1) A little bit of steel from my brush has lodged itself in between the threads???
>
> 2) The cleaning action of my steel brush rounded off the threads a bit and
is
> causing an extremely tight fit?
>
> 3) The loctite 620 that I thought was completely cleaned off was actually still
> there in a residual form and the acetone that I thought was dry was still a
> little wet and reactivated the 620?? This one is a long shot. As I really cleaned
> these puppies.
>
> I need help and worst case scenarios here. I am going to have nightmares about
> having to replace a crankshaft on account of this.
>
> What would a good machinist do to get this thing out?
>
> --------
> One Rivet at a Time!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288699#288699
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE |
Heres a couple photos
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288738#288738
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1010510_148.jpg
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 02/28/10 |
Any one think of starting off by using a good penetrating oil?-BOB
--- On Mon, 3/1/10, Gordon Arbeitman <gordona23@earthlink.net> wrote:
From: Gordon Arbeitman <gordona23@earthlink.net>
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 02/28/10
ink.net>
Michael;
Keep the engine from turning by finding the cylinder that is near TDC on it
s compression stroke and feed some 1/4 inch nylon rope into the spark plug
hole.- Make sure the piston is moving up as the engine rotates when you t
ry to loosen the bolt, before inserting the rope.- Put in as much rope as
will fit.- Then slowly rotate the stuck bolt until the engine locks up.
Now, get a hand impact tool and use it to remove the bolt.-
Rotate the engine in the opposite direction and remove the rope.
Then get a good light and figure out what happened.- Please let us know h
ow you make out.
JabiruEngine-List Digest Server wrote:
> *
>
>- =======================
=
>- - Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
>- =======================
=
>
> Today's complete JabiruEngine-List Digest can also be found in either of
the two Web Links listed below.- The .html file includes the Digest forma
tted in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexe
s and Message Navigation.- The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the JabiruEngine-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text edit
or such as Notepad or with a web browser.
> HTML Version:
>
>- ---http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&
View=html&Chapter 10-02-28&Archive=JabiruEngine
>
> Text Version:
>
>- ---http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&
View=txt&Chapter 10-02-28&Archive=JabiruEngine
>
>
>- =======================
========================
>- - EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
>- =======================
========================
>
>- - - - - ------------------------------------------------
-------------
>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - JabiruEngine-List
Digest Archive
>- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
------
>- - - - - - - - - - - Total Messages Posted Sun 02/2
8/10: 2
>- - - - - - --------------------------------------------------
--------
>---Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>- - ---1. 07:54 PM - Engine Weight Comparison - Jabiru 3300 To R
otax 912 ULS- (david van lanen)
>- - - 2. 09:32 PM - STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE- (MHerd
er)
>- - ________________________________- Message 1- _________________
____________________
>
>
> Time: 07:54:28 PM PST US
> From: "david van lanen" <davevanlanen@sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Engine Weight Comparison - Jabiru 3300 To Rot
ax 912
> ULS
>
> Has anyone compared the installed "wet" weight of a Jabiru 3300 to a Rota
x
> 912 ULS, and if so, can you give me an approximate weight difference?-
> Thanks,
> Dave Van Lanen
> Madison, WI
> ________________________________- Message 2- ________________________
_____________
>
>
> Time: 09:32:51 PM PST US
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE
> From: "MHerder" <michaelherder@beckgroup.com>
>
>
> Guys I'm having a really crappy night.
>
>
> This evening I decided to prepare for the final installation of my 2.5" p
rop hub
> extension on my 3300.- In strict accordance with the service bulletins
I heated
> the flange and bolts while protecting the rubber seals with a wet rag and
> I safely removed all six bolts.- SUCCESS... I thought.
>
>
> I thouroghly- removed all of the loctite with a dental pick, then aceto
ne on the
> female side.- I then used a steel brush and cleaned the female threads.
- I then
> cleaned the bolts with a wire brush on a wheel. Acetone 3 or four more ti
mes,
> cleaning very- thuroghtly, making sure not to get oils from my hands on
the
> bolts.- Cleaning, blowing with compressed air, acetone repeat... Maybe
even
> too many times, but I was determined to not screw this up!!!.
>
> As a final check I- decided to make sure that all was well and hand scr
ewed the
> bolt in to make sure that it went in smoothly.- I used the same bolt on
three
> holes and it went in pretty dang smooth.- The third one was nearly all
the way
> in (about 1/8" less than all the way in (simulating prop flange thickness
))
> and then it got stuck!!- I thought surely it can't really be stuck, I'm
not cross
> threaded and it went in smooth.- So I got out my wrench to back it out.
- Now
> it's stuck enough that it turns over the engine and I don't have the prop
flange
> on so it's tricky to keep the engine from turning over.-
> I only have two theories as to how this could have happened.
>
> 1)- A little bit of steel from my brush has lodged itself in between th
e threads???
>
> 2)- The cleaning action of my steel brush rounded off the threads a bit
- and is
> causing an extremely tight fit?
>
> 3)- The loctite 620 that I thought was completely cleaned off was actua
lly still
> there in a residual form and the acetone that I thought was dry was still
a
> little wet and reactivated the 620??- This one is a long shot.- As I
really cleaned
> these puppies.
>
> I need help and worst case scenarios here.- I am going to have nightmar
es about
> having to replace a crankshaft on account of this.-
> What would a good machinist do to get this thing out?
>
> --------
> One Rivet at a Time!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288699#288699
>
>
>-
>
>---
>
>
>---
le, List Admin.
Message 7
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|
| Subject: | Re: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE |
OUCH! I don't like the idea of pipe wrenches anywhere near the
crankshaft....maybe that's just me, though. The best idea would be a
flywheel turner, but I'm guessing you won't have one, so how about
some c-clamps applied to the flywheel, over thin plywood...1/4" or
so...so as to not mar the flywheel. Locate the clamps so they bear
against something other than the coil mounts or the "spider" that
supports the alternator...perhaps a strategically located 2x4 that
the clamp could bear against while you attempt to remove the stuck bolt.
If the pipe wrench is gonna do any good, it must bite into something,
and I don't think the rag is that something....unless it doesn't take
very much to loosen that stuck bolt.
Could you stand the engine on its' rear and let some Liquid Wrench
soak into the problem hole? Or maybe more acetone if that doesn't
help. Try turning the bolt back in a little, and then back and forth
while the penetrating fluid does its thing.
Another method might be to drill the naughty bolt
lengthwise....you'll know when you've drilled through the
bolt.....and apply oil, or...maybe a bit extreme....tap the end of
the bolt with a 1/4-28 tap and screw in a Zerk fitting, apply a
grease gun and lube from the inside out. I think most hardware store
Zerk fittings are 1/4-28, but get the fittings before tapping. Then
do the back and forth thing with the allen wrench, and you might get
lucky.
The next time, I'd cut a groove into one of the old bolts (you're
gonna use 6 new bolts, right? RIGHT!) so it resembles a tap, with a
sharp "leading edge" and use that to clean out the crap inside the
bolt holes. Then oil up one or more of the new bolts, and try them
for depth of penetration, like you were doing. Then wash them and the
holes again, and proceed according to the instructions via Jabiru.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 860.4 hrs (since 3-27-2006)
Countdown to 1000 hrs~140 to go(145 days to go)
Sensenich 62"x46" Wood (summer)
Sensenich 55.5" x 46" Wood (winter)
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection
Status: flying (and learning)
On Mar 1, 2010, at 6:45 AM, Naftali Horowitz wrote:
> You can grab the crank with a pipe wrench and a rag in between.
>
> > Subject: JabiruEngine-List: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE
> > From: michaelherder@beckgroup.com
> > Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 21:31:51 -0800
> > To: jabiruengine-list@matronics.com
> >
> <michaelherder@beckgroup.com>
> >
> > Guys I'm having a really crappy night.
> >
> >
> > This evening I decided to prepare for the final installation of
> my 2.5" prop hub extension on my 3300. In strict accordance with
> the service bulletins I heated the flange and bolts while
> protecting the rubber seals with a wet rag and I safely removed all
> six bolts. SUCCESS... I thought.
> >
> >
> > I thouroghly removed all of the loctite with a dental pick, then
> acetone on the female side. I then used a steel brush and cleaned
> the female threads. I then cleaned the bolts with a wire brush on a
> wheel. Acetone 3 or four more times, cleaning very thuroghtly,
> making sure not to get oils from my hands on the bolts. Cleaning,
> blowing with compressed air, acetone repeat... Maybe even too many
> times, but I was determined to not screw this up!!!.
> >
> > As a final check I decided to make sure that all was well and
> hand screwed the bolt in to make sure that it went in smoothly. I
> used the same bolt on three holes and it went in pretty dang
> smooth. The third one was nearly all the way in (about 1/8" less
> than all the way in (simulating prop flange thickness)) and then it
> got stuck!! I thought surely it can't really be stuck, I'm not
> cross threaded and it went in smooth. So I got out my wrench to
> back it out. Now it's stuck enough that it turns over the engine
> and I don't have the prop flange on so it's tricky to keep the
> engine from turning over.
> >
> > I only have two theories as to how this could have happened.
> >
> > 1) A little bit of steel from my brush has lodged itself in
> between the threads???
> >
> > 2) The cleaning action of my steel brush rounded off the threads
> a bit and is causing an extremely tight fit?
> >
> > 3) The loctite 620 that I thought was completely cleaned off was
> actually still there in a residual form and the acetone that I
> thought was dry was still a little wet and reactivated the 620??
> This one is a long shot. As I really cleaned these puppies.
> >
> > I need help and worst case scenarios here. I am going to have
> nightmares about having to replace a crankshaft on account of this.
> >
> > What would a good machinist do to get this thing out?
> >
> > --------
> > One Rivet at a Time!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288699#288699
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> >
> >
>
> Hotmail: PowerGBL/go/201469230/direct/01/' target='_new'>Get it
> ============================================================ _-
> ============================================================ _-
> contribution_-
> ===========================================================
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: JabiruEngine-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 02/28/10 |
Good idea...I'd forgotten about the rope trick. (getting old is hell!)
One addition to the rope trick...it would be best to make sure that
you're on the compression stroke, so as to not be pushing the rope
against the edge of an open valve. I don't know how much those puny
valves can take. This might be a case of over-thinking, but better
safe than sorry.
And I would NOT use an impact, as I'd want to be able to feel how
that bolt is progressing outward, and be able to stop it before it
got the crank all gouged out.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 860.4 hrs (since 3-27-2006)
Countdown to 1000 hrs~140 to go(145 days to go)
Sensenich 62"x46" Wood (summer)
Sensenich 55.5" x 46" Wood (winter)
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection
Status: flying (and learning)
On Mar 1, 2010, at 9:22 AM, Gordon Arbeitman wrote:
> <gordona23@earthlink.net>
>
> Michael;
>
> Keep the engine from turning by finding the cylinder that is near
> TDC on its compression stroke and feed some 1/4 inch nylon rope
> into the spark plug hole. Make sure the piston is moving up as the
> engine rotates when you try to loosen the bolt, before inserting
> the rope. Put in as much rope as will fit. Then slowly rotate the
> stuck bolt until the engine locks up.
>
> Now, get a hand impact tool and use it to remove the bolt.
> Rotate the engine in the opposite direction and remove the rope.
>
> Then get a good light and figure out what happened. Please let us
> know how you make out.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE |
MIchael,=0A=0AJust in case you have not tried it, See the NOTE at the botto
m of page 1 of JSB 022-1 dated 10/23/01:- -=0A=0A"NOTE:- To prevent c
rankshaft from turning, use a suitable tool & lock the crankshaft.- This
is done by positioing a tool on the ring gear teeth or with a bar under the
first set of flhywheel magnets & the reas set of magnets."=0A=0AI used a l
arge screwdriver wedged in-a ring gear tooth, and the same to check torqu
e at annuals.=0A=0A=0ATony Graziano=0A=0AN493TGl; 558 smooth running hrs on
- Jab3300A- #33A644=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom:
MHerder <michaelherder@beckgroup.com>=0ATo: jabiruengine-list@matronics.co
m=0ASent: Sun, February 28, 2010 11:31:51 PM=0ASubject: JabiruEngine-List:
STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE=0A=0A--> JabiruEngine-List message p
osted by: "MHerder" <michaelherder@beckgroup.com>=0A=0AGuys I'm having a re
ally crappy night.=0A=0A=0AThis evening I decided to prepare for the final
installation of my 2.5" prop hub extension on my 3300.- In strict accorda
nce with the service bulletins I heated the flange and bolts while protecti
ng the rubber seals with a wet rag and I safely removed all six bolts.- S
UCCESS... I thought.=0A=0A=0AI thouroghly- removed all of the loctite wit
h a dental pick, then acetone on the female side.- I then used a steel br
ush and cleaned the female threads.- I then cleaned the bolts with a wire
brush on a wheel. Acetone 3 or four more times, cleaning very- thuroghtl
y, making sure not to get oils from my hands on the bolts.- Cleaning, blo
wing with compressed air, acetone repeat... Maybe even too many times, but
I was determined to not screw this up!!!.=0A=0AAs a final check I- decide
d to make sure that all was well and hand screwed the bolt in to make sure
that it went in smoothly.- I used the same bolt on three holes and it wen
t in pretty dang smooth.- The third one was nearly all the way in (about
1/8" less than all the way in (simulating prop flange thickness)) and then
it got stuck!!- I thought surely it can't really be stuck, I'm not cross
threaded and it went in smooth.- So I got out my wrench to back it out.
- Now it's stuck enough that it turns over the engine and I don't have th
e prop flange on so it's tricky to keep the engine from turning over.-
=0A=0AI only have two theories as to how this could have happened.=0A=0A1)
- A little bit of steel from my brush has lodged itself in between the th
reads???=0A=0A2)- The cleaning action of my steel brush rounded off the t
hreads a bit- and is causing an extremely tight fit?=0A=0A3)- The locti
te 620 that I thought was completely cleaned off was actually still there i
n a residual form and the acetone that I thought was dry was still a little
wet and reactivated the 620??- This one is a long shot.- As I really c
leaned these puppies.=0A=0AI need help and worst case scenarios here.- I
am going to have nightmares about having to replace a crankshaft on account
of this.- =0A=0AWhat would a good machinist do to get this thing out?=0A
=0A--------=0AOne Rivet at a Time!=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online her
e:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288699#288699=0A=0A
=======================
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE |
My wheels are turning in my head and I think Ive devised a plan.
I will take the old and otherwise useless old prop flange off, I will then drill
one of the holes in said flange (old and useless one) big enough that it fits
over the the cap (head) of the allen bolt.
I will then thoroughly reclean and oil the other holes (to make sure that I dont
repeat this debacle) and put at least three bolts into the flange old flange
that, and at least now I will have something to keep the engine from turning
over now. The real question is, am I going to snap the head of this bolt and
if I do, what is plan B?
Has anyone ever broken the cap bolt off, and if so how did you recover from that
folly?
Any objections?
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288753#288753
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE |
The tool they are referring to consists of a 1/2" square, long bar,
with an offset bar hinged to it, and it is applied to the flywheel to
hold it in place, either using a helper, or just letting the long bar
end rest against the motor mount or something stable. This "flywheel
turning tool" is pretty cheap, and I've had one in my toolbox for
years....I'll bet the one I've got cost more than the ones available
today (think Harbor Freight) : )
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062, 860.4 hrs (since 3-27-2006)
Countdown to 1000 hrs~140 to go(145 days to go)
Sensenich 62"x46" Wood (summer)
Sensenich 55.5" x 46" Wood (winter)
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection
Status: flying (and learning)
On Mar 1, 2010, at 11:03 AM, tonyplane wrote:
> MIchael,
>
> Just in case you have not tried it, See the NOTE at the bottom of
> page 1 of JSB 022-1 dated 10/23/01:
>
> "NOTE: To prevent crankshaft from turning, use a suitable tool &
> lock the crankshaft. This is done by positioing a tool on the ring
> gear teeth or with a bar under the first set of flhywheel magnets &
> the reas set of magnets."
>
> I used a large screwdriver wedged in a ring gear tooth, and the
> same to check torque at annuals.
>
>
> Tony Graziano
>
> N493TGl; 558 smooth running hrs on Jab3300A #33A644
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: STUCK PROP FLANGE BOLT- HELP ME PLEASE |
What have you been using to heat the area with? If it is just a heat gun then use
a propane torch. You aren't getting it hot enough. Heat the area around the
bolt a little hotter and quicker it will come out. You are not trying to make
this red hot just hotter than the heat gun will get it. Don't apply any heat
to the bolt.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288820#288820
Message 13
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| Subject: | Official JabiruEngine-List FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) |
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- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
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- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
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- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
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- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
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will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularly
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| Subject: | Official JabiruEngine-List Usage Guidelines |
Dear Listers,
Please read over the JabiruEngine-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
JabiruEngine-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/JabiruEngine-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
JabiruEngine-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the JabiruEngine-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the JabiruEngine-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
JabiruEngine-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the JabiruEngine-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occasional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularly
subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
do not archive
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