Today's Message Index:
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1. 06:54 AM - Re: Re: Intake Hose (Lynn Matteson)
2. 08:49 AM - Re: Intake Hose (Pete Krotje)
3. 09:46 AM - Re: Intake Hose (MHerder)
4. 01:16 PM - Re: Intake Hose (MHerder)
Message 1
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Do you all remember when the lower radiator hose(s) on cars had a
spring coiled up inside them? I don't mean molded inside, I mean just
slid into the lower hose. (The upper didn't necessarily have a
spring.) Well, I had a car that I was working on, and the spring was
all rusty, so I decided to throw the spring away, and reinstall the
hose. I did and went merrily on my way. Some time later, I was
working under the hood and running the engine, and I noticed that
when I'd rev the engine up, the lower hose would collapse....yup, the
hose was being sucked shut by the suction of the water pump. The same
thing is happening with your intake hose, because it is not strong
enough. When I first installed my Jabiru, I used a truck radiator
hose for an inlet, but it was quite stiff, and didn't...as far as I
could tell...collapse under suction.
Bobby, did you do a thorough run-up before flying with that
collapsing hose? It seems like that would have given you a clue as to
whether the hose would behave or not. If you could not get the engine
to run up to 2850 or so, static, then I would have looked further
into it before taking off.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062
Prince prop (64 x 30, P-tip)
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection (sleeved to 35mm)
Status: flying...1086 hrs (since 3-27-2006)
On Mar 13, 2011, at 10:44 PM, MHerder wrote:
> <michaelherder@beckgroup.com>
>
> Bobby,
>
> I thank you for sharing your experience with your collapsing tube!
> I take it there was no warning, but I'm wondering now if my
> "warning" could be lower than anticipated RPM. Did you fly at all
> before this happened or was it on your first takeoff roll in this
> configuration? I've got about 1.5 hrs like this now without the
> dividers and with the Radiator hose, but with your comments I wont
> push it more without some reconsideration as to how to be sure the
> hose doesn't collapse.
>
> I will say however that my hose is very rigid (nearly 1/4" tck),
> but I could see your point when warm. I would also figure that
> once it starts to collapse, it happens almost instantaneously
> rather than slowly.
>
Message 2
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Perhaps the difference here might be a =9CRadiator Hose=9D
vs an =9CIntake Hose=9D. Radiator hoses are cheap and
usually available from local auto stores but not designed for suction.
Intake hoses are more of a specialized item and are designed to hold up
to intake suction and might be best found at www.intakehoses.com.
Pete
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BobbyPaulk@comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2011 3:33 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Intake Hose
Guys,
I am using a 260 main and 290 needle jet and still just barely on the
rich side at full throttle. When I pull back to 2600 ~ 2650 it will lean
out. My front 2 cylinders will run 1350 EGT at cruise while the other 4
are below 1200. I believe this to be due an inherent design problem. I
have tried most all the ideas I have read and nothing seems to work at
all throttle settings. I have to cruise at 2550 or lower or go above
2850 to maintain cooling. Has anyone toyed with a needle change. I am
using the newer leaner tapered needle and black floats.
PLEASE BE ADVISED OF THE PROBLEM I HAD USING SMOOTH RADIATOR HOSE. WHEN
IT WARMS UP IT BECOMES PLIABLE AND WILL COLLAPSE AT FULL THROTTLE.
PLEASE INSTALL VANES TO PREVENT THIS . My engine quit cold on take off
roll just prior to lift off. Another minute and I would have been in the
trees.
Bobby
Jab 3300
601 XL "B"
116 hrs.
Message 3
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Tilting the bowl helped things run smoother. Haven't installed vane yet but will
do so very soon and report back.
#5 is still the pesky warm cylinder. Just above 1400 at MWOT. The rest are running
a little cooler now. I went back to hte .255 which helped a bit too.
This really is a moving target. Any little change has a trickle effect on other
things.
I just think that I should be able to get 3300 rpm on such a fine pitch prop (64x47)
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One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333871#333871
Message 4
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If the big headache here is the silly 90 degree bend right before the carb... Can
anyone tell me why we aren't running a system with a cone shaped K&N filter
attached directly to the bing with electric carb heat to prevent icing?
Is anyone running such a system with a 601 FWF kit, if so what are your results?
Does it even fit???? I know it looks like our nose gear might get in the way,
I'd hate to have to do a taildragger conversion for this :D
http://www.esatclear.ie/~xair/jabiru%20carb%20heat.htm
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One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=333888#333888
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