Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:50 AM - Re: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update (Lynn Matteson)
2. 06:14 AM - Re: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update (j. davis)
3. 08:11 AM - Re: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update (Lynn Matteson)
4. 11:49 AM - 93 Octane (BobbyPaulk@comcast.net)
5. 12:04 PM - Re: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update (j. davis)
6. 01:40 PM - Re: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update (Martin Hone)
7. 10:24 PM - Re: 93 Octane (dons701)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update |
I talked to Pete a couple of years ago, and he said that Jabiru had
played with different shapes for that diverter...round, square,
teardrop, etc., and finally settled on the teardrop. But later
stories have had people having success with the round one. I have my
old manifold in the shop, just measured it, and you have to split the
manifold by about 90 thousandths in order to get the diverter out.
Mine is 1.337" long, and is threaded .988" deep. It doesn't have to
be threaded that deep, just deep enough to accept the length of the
1/4-20 cap screw that holds it in place. On my manifold, the screw
goes only into the diverter piece...not through it and into the other/
upper side of the manifold. The diameter of the tube/rod would have
to be 0.472" give or take a thou or two, in order to sit into the
seat that is machined into the manifold.
The manifold halves are aligned with approx. 1/16" diameter dowel
pins....maybe they are 1.5-2 mm's....not sure of this because I
didn't pull the manifold completely apart just now. It would be kinda
tricky getting the manifold apart while it is still on the engine,
but it could be done if you were careful. Whatever you do, don't try
sticking a screwdriver into the split around the manifold, because
you'll bugger up the machined surfaces. It seems to me like it would
be better to remove the manifold and intake tube lower sections in
oder to do the job right, because you have to replace the o-rings,
and scrape off all the sealer that has been applied around the intake
tubes...at least it was applied on my engine.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062
Temporarily w/Sensenich 55.5 x 46 prop while
Prince prop (64 x 30, P-tip) is in for upgrade
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection (sleeved to 36mm)
Status: flying with "Ramcharger" intake manifold...1121 hrs (since
3-27-2006)
On Jun 19, 2011, at 2:38 PM, j. davis wrote:
> <jd@lawsonimaging.ca>
>
> On 06/19/2011 01:12 PM, Lynn Matteson wrote:
>> <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>>
>> It's VERY highly unlikely that loosening that bolt, or even
>> removing it completely would allow the diverter to get out of
>> place....that is, if it's anything like the "manifold" that WAS in
>> my 2200.
>
> Oh, OK, haven't actually taken it apart yet, so I'll take your word
> for it. Do you happen to know any details of the 1/2" ring/tube/rod
> mod? Realistically, I'll prolly just put the carb back on and
> experiment with tilting it slightly off vertical, but the divider
> mod is
> intriguing...
>
> Thanks, Lynn.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update |
On 06/20/2011 06:47 AM, Lynn Matteson wrote:
>
> I talked to Pete a couple of years ago, and he said that Jabiru had played with
> different shapes for that diverter...round, square, teardrop, etc., and finally
settled
> on the teardrop. But later stories have had people having success with the round
one. I
> have my old manifold in the shop, just measured it, and you have to split the
manifold
> by about 90 thousandths in order to get the diverter out. Mine is 1.337" long,
and is
> threaded .988" deep. It doesn't have to be threaded that deep, just deep enough
to
> accept the length of the 1/4-20 cap screw that holds it in place. On my manifold,
the
> screw goes only into the diverter piece...not through it and into the other/upper
side
> of the manifold. The diameter of the tube/rod would have to be 0.472" give or
take a
> thou or two, in order to sit into the seat that is machined into the manifold.
> The manifold halves are aligned with approx. 1/16" diameter dowel pins....maybe
they are
> 1.5-2 mm's....not sure of this because I didn't pull the manifold completely
apart just
> now. It would be kinda tricky getting the manifold apart while it is still on
the
> engine, but it could be done if you were careful. Whatever you do, don't try
sticking a
> screwdriver into the split around the manifold, because you'll bugger up the
machined
> surfaces. It seems to me like it would be better to remove the manifold and intake
tube
> lower sections in oder to do the job right, because you have to replace the o-rings,
and
> scrape off all the sealer that has been applied around the intake tubes...at
least it
> was applied on my engine.
>
Thanks, Lynn. Sounds like a bigger job than I had in mind. Think I'll wait on that,
play
with tilting the carb slightly.
BTW, my Prince P-Tip is P54AT60K
--
Regards, J.
- Sonex #325 C-FJNJ, Jab 3300a, Prince P-Tip, Aerocarb
- former C-IGGY CH701 owner/builder, CH750 in progress
- see both (and more!) at http://cleco.ca
-----------------------------
J. Davis, M.Sc. (comp sci)
email: jd at lawsonimaging.ca
*NIX consulting, SysAdmin
http://cleco.ca
I watched the Indy 500, and I was thinking that if they
left earlier they wouldn't have to go so fast.
--- Steven Wright
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update |
Yes, changing out the diverter would involve a bit of work.
On tilting/rotating the carb, I made up a small pointer and attached
it to the spider as I recall, then made a mark on the top of the carb
at the starting point. This way I could tell exactly where I started
from, and where I was going to, with respect to carb rotation. It
doesn't take much, and without a "fix" it's hard to tell where you are.
Thanks for the prop specs....my friend has a Waiex w/3300 Jab, and
his is 54 x 64 Sensenich.
Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, #2062
Temporarily w/Sensenich 55.5 x 46 prop while
Prince prop (64 x 30, P-tip) is in for upgrade
Electroair direct-fire ignition system
Rotec TBI-40 injection (sleeved to 36mm)
Status: flying with "Ramcharger" intake manifold...1121 hrs (since
3-27-2006)
On Jun 20, 2011, at 9:10 AM, j. davis wrote:
> <jd@lawsonimaging.ca>
>
> On 06/20/2011 06:47 AM, Lynn Matteson wrote:
>> <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>>
>> I talked to Pete a couple of years ago, and he said that Jabiru
>> had played with different shapes for that diverter...round,
>> square, teardrop, etc., and finally settled on the teardrop. But
>> later stories have had people having success with the round one. I
>> have my old manifold in the shop, just measured it, and you have
>> to split the manifold by about 90 thousandths in order to get the
>> diverter out. Mine is 1.337" long, and is threaded .988" deep. It
>> doesn't have to be threaded that deep, just deep enough to accept
>> the length of the 1/4-20 cap screw that holds it in place. On my
>> manifold, the screw goes only into the diverter piece...not
>> through it and into the other/upper side of the manifold. The
>> diameter of the tube/rod would have to be 0.472" give or take a
>> thou or two, in order to sit into the seat that is machined into
>> the manifold.
>> The manifold halves are aligned with approx. 1/16" diameter dowel
>> pins....maybe they are 1.5-2 mm's....not sure of this because I
>> didn't pull the manifold completely apart just now. It would be
>> kinda tricky getting the manifold apart while it is still on the
>> engine, but it could be done if you were careful. Whatever you do,
>> don't try sticking a screwdriver into the split around the
>> manifold, because you'll bugger up the machined surfaces. It seems
>> to me like it would be better to remove the manifold and intake
>> tube lower sections in oder to do the job right, because you have
>> to replace the o-rings, and scrape off all the sealer that has
>> been applied around the intake tubes...at least it was applied on
>> my engine.
>>
>
> Thanks, Lynn. Sounds like a bigger job than I had in mind. Think
> I'll wait on that, play with tilting the carb slightly.
>
> BTW, my Prince P-Tip is P54AT60K
>
> --
> Regards, J.
>
> - Sonex #325 C-FJNJ, Jab 3300a, Prince P-Tip, Aerocarb
> - former C-IGGY CH701 owner/builder, CH750 in progress
> - see both (and more!) at http://cleco.ca
>
> -----------------------------
> J. Davis, M.Sc. (comp sci)
> email: jd at lawsonimaging.ca
> *NIX consulting, SysAdmin
> http://cleco.ca
>
>
> I watched the Indy 500, and I was thinking that if they
> left earlier they wouldn't have to go so fast.
> --- Steven Wright
>
>
Message 4
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List,
I have been burning 93 Oct. BP No- ethanol ( It's the same blend as the old Amoco
White ) for most of my 119 hrs. I have found it to burn slightly cooler than
100 LL. and the CHT's are more equal. I have experimented with the Ram Air duct
and changed jets in the Bing until I can no longer better the situation. The
CHT's at low cruise ( under 2500 rpm 19" ) is #6 about 310 ~ 315 and the rest
under 300 with #2 running about 250 deg. At high cruise ( 26" ) & above 2750
I can get about the same but it is too fast for rough air ( over 130 mph ).
Anywhere in between 2500 and 2700 the CHT's will climb too high for comfort (
330 ~ 340 ) on some cylinders. It runs too lean between 2500 and 2700 RPM. EGT
goes up immediately and CHT follows.
I have the lean needle and the newer black floats.
Has anyone played with changing the taper on the needle and how would you determine
how far down from the diaphragm would be in the 2500 ~ 2700 rpm range.
Bobby ( age 73 )
Zodiac 601 XL "B"
Jabiru 3300 S/N 1141
Sensenich 64" x 51" Prop
Bing Carb 260 Main & 290 Needle Jet
Status - Flying 119 hrs.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update |
Lynn Matteson wrote:
>
> Yes, changing out the diverter would involve a bit of work.
> On tilting/rotating the carb, I made up a small pointer and attached it
> to the spider as I recall, then made a mark on the top of the carb at
> the starting point. This way I could tell exactly where I started from,
> and where I was going to, with respect to carb rotation. It doesn't take
> much, and without a "fix" it's hard to tell where you are.
Good idea, thanks.
>
> Thanks for the prop specs....my friend has a Waiex w/3300 Jab, and his
> is 54 x 64 Sensenich.
I went with Lonnie's recommendation, and I'm happy with it. I see about 3150 WOT
full rich in flight, but there are a few variables that can come into play
there, not the least of which is carb tuning...
J.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: J.'s rich #3 cylinder update |
Lynn,
the 3300 has a similar arrangement for the plenum, except the bolt that
holds the flow divider goes all the way through into the crankcase. Given
that the intake tubes are sealed with O-rings where they exit the plenum,
you would have to wonder why there is sealing compound around the outside as
well. There was on mine and it had gone hard and cracked. Doesn't seem to
be a lot of rhyme or reason for some of this stuff. Maybe just that a whole
lot of different people have tried solving issues at the factory level.
Martin
On Mon, Jun 20, 2011 at 8:47 PM, Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
>
> I talked to Pete a couple of years ago, and he said that Jabiru had played
> with different shapes for that diverter...round, square, teardrop, etc., and
> finally settled on the teardrop. But later stories have had people having
> success with the round one. I have my old manifold in the shop, just
> measured it, and you have to split the manifold by about 90 thousandths in
> order to get the diverter out. Mine is 1.337" long, and is threaded .988"
> deep. It doesn't have to be threaded that deep, just deep enough to accept
> the length of the 1/4-20 cap screw that holds it in place. On my manifold,
> the screw goes only into the diverter piece...not through it and into the
> other/upper side of the manifold. The diameter of the tube/rod would have to
> be 0.472" give or take a thou or two, in order to sit into the seat that is
> machined into the manifold.
> The manifold halves are aligned with approx. 1/16" diameter dowel
> pins....maybe they are 1.5-2 mm's....not sure of this because I didn't pull
> the manifold completely apart just now. It would be kinda tricky getting the
> manifold apart while it is still on the engine, but it could be done if you
> were careful. Whatever you do, don't try sticking a screwdriver into the
> split around the manifold, because you'll bugger up the machined surfaces.
> It seems to me like it would be better to remove the manifold and intake
> tube lower sections in oder to do the job right, because you have to replace
> the o-rings, and scrape off all the sealer that has been applied around the
> intake tubes...at least it was applied on my engine.
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
> Jabiru 2200, #2062
> Temporarily w/Sensenich 55.5 x 46 prop while
> Prince prop (64 x 30, P-tip) is in for upgrade
> Electroair direct-fire ignition system
> Rotec TBI-40 injection (sleeved to 36mm)
> Status: flying with "Ramcharger" intake manifold...1121 hrs (since
> 3-27-2006)
>
>
> On Jun 19, 2011, at 2:38 PM, j. davis wrote:
>
>>
>> On 06/19/2011 01:12 PM, Lynn Matteson wrote:
>>
>>> >
>>>
>>> It's VERY highly unlikely that loosening that bolt, or even removing it
>>> completely would allow the diverter to get out of place....that is, if it's
>>> anything like the "manifold" that WAS in my 2200.
>>>
>>
>> Oh, OK, haven't actually taken it apart yet, so I'll take your word for
>> it. Do you happen to know any details of the 1/2" ring/tube/rod
>> mod? Realistically, I'll prolly just put the carb back on and experiment
>> with tilting it slightly off vertical, but the divider mod is
>> intriguing...
>>
>> Thanks, Lynn.
>>
>
>
Message 7
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Bobby, Did you try raising the needle by placing the clip in one the lower notches
in the needle? When you say "I have experimented with the Ram Air duct", what
did you do?....Don B
--------
Zenith 701 #76120
Jabiru 2200A #2456 95 hours
Sensenich Wood 64-PJ-36 Prop
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