Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:12 AM - Starter not rotating (Larry and Dee Pritchard)
2. 09:26 AM - Re:Sticking Starter ()
3. 09:07 PM - Re: Re: [jabiruengines] All about Oil Webinar (FLYaDIVE)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Starter not rotating |
Reply to Jeff Paris
Sticking relay
Larry Pritchard
Thorp T-211
3300cc S/N 346 (old style starter)(non - Jabiru relays, NOS 20+ years
old)
I had over 250 hours on my engine when I tried to start, could not hear
relay click. Cycled everything I could think of several times and it
finally started. When back at my hangar I removed the relay and red
split rocker and everything looked good. Replaced relay to be sure (I
hope). The relays I had and the new replacement are all cont. duty. I
have 30+ hours since the change and things are good.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re:Sticking Starter |
I have an older starter. One time the starter spun up but the prop did
not move. The gear on the starter motor shaft was just pressed on and
became loose. I had a welder just touch the end of the shaft and gear.
This weld has worked now for many hours.
Chuck D.
N701TX
Jab 2200
Has anyone experienced having your starter motor not engage and whine on
start-up? =C2-It's been happening as of late, I end up crawling out of
the plane to turn the proppeller and my 3300 starts as normal. =C2-Any
ideas or
suggestion?
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RE: [jabiruengines] All about Oil Webinar |
Martin:
Very good...
Which came first...
COOLING or LUBRICATION...
If you COOL you lower friction, if you lower friction you cool.
But, the proof of what it really does is in a simple thing like sharpening
a
knife.
If you lubricate and reduce friction you will never get the knife sharp.
AND we are talking about sharpening with a hand stone. If you do not COOL
the edge will curl and it wil also loose the hardness of the steel. SO!
Which came first? COOLING!
Synthetics - Now that is a slippery subject. They can be very stable when
you talk single strand. But what they do best is lower friction. And
because they do that best they SUFFER in removing heat. One without the
other is doing nothing. Years before they were used in aircraft they were
used in model airplanes and cars. There was an increase in engine temps an
d
part failures. Experimenting took over and a BLEND of synthetics
and petroleum oils came to light. The best of both worlds. Even today a
50/50 blend is better for both lubrication and cooling.
So you can see from above the failure on 100% synthetics is their inability
to draw away heat - COOL.
Yes there are chemical action taking place within the oil. But, our bigges
t
problem is not the quality of heat reduction or friction reduction - It is
CORROSION - We just don't fly our planes enough. We have to protect the
engine from US!
Barry
On Fri, Sep 9, 2011 at 6:07 PM, Martin Hone <aerobiz1@gmail.com> wrote:
> Ok, I'll bite....
>
> First purpose of oil is to lubricate.....or it could be to cool
>
> Second. Synthetics advantage is high temp stability
>
> Third. Not sure of the context here, but I assume it is due to
> contamination or inability to scavenge TEL
>
> How'd I go ?
>
> Marty
>
> On Sat, Sep 10, 2011 at 7:35 AM, FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Brian:
>>
>> You got a few errors there...
>>
>> Item 1:
>> Four cylinder engines such as Lycomming and Continental are required to
>> run with as little as 2 quarts of oil while keeping the temps in the Gre
en
>> for the entire fuel quantity on a certified GA.
>>
>> Item 2:
>> STRAIGHT is the same as MONO.
>> fyi W stands for WINTER
>> The PLUS is the extra anti corrosion inhibitors.
>> There is no viscosity difference between 100 or W100 or W100 PLUS. They
>> are all 50 weight. Same is true for 80 or W80 or W80 PLUS. They are a
ll
>> 40 weight. They are single weight oils.
>>
>> Item 3:
>> There is NO MINERAL OIL any more.
>> Hasn't been for years.
>> The name is still used because of popularity.
>> It is like Kleenex for a Tissue.
>> "Mineral" refers to NON - AD oils.
>>
>> Let me throw a "Loaded Question" out to the group:
>> What is the FIRST purpose of OIL?
>> aka [hint] Which came first, the chicken or the egg?
>>
>> Second question:
>> What is the first advantage of Synthetic Oils?
>>
>> Third question:
>> Why did 100% Synthetic Oil fail?
>> [See Second Question]
>>
>> As far as testing goes... The accepted standard is NOT the engine, but t
he
>> THREE BALL TEST. Exxon Elite is GREAT for corrosion protection. That i
s
>> really their claim to fame. Many other oils test the same as Exxon for
Load
>> and COF.
>>
>> Barry
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 9, 2011 at 1:56 AM, James, Clive R <clive.james@uk.bp.com>wr
ote:
>>
>>> Never heard of the Phillips oil in UK so did some surfing, Checkout a
>>> test on the Phillips oil against Exxons version. ****
>>>
>>> ** **
>>>
>>> http://www.eliteavoil.co.uk/wear.pdf****
>>>
>>> ** **
>>>
>>> Results to be taken with a pinch of salt of course.****
>>>
>>> ** **
>>>
>>> Regards, Clive****
>>>
>>> ** **
>>>
>>> *From:* jabiruengines@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
>>> jabiruengines@yahoogroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Brian Anderson
>>> *Sent:* 08 September 2011 22:06
>>> *To:* jabiruengines@yahoogroups.com
>>> *Subject:* [jabiruengines] All about Oil Webinar****
>>>
>>> ** **
>>>
>>> ****
>>>
>>> Yesterday I participated in the EAA sponsored Webinar - - All about Oil
.
>>> It was an on-line presentation by Mike Busch. This guy regularly writes
>>> articles for the EAA Sport Aviation magazine.
>>>
>>> The presentation was great. Mike is very knowledgeable and explains
>>> things simply and clearly.
>>>
>>> Some very interesting facts emerged.
>>>
>>> 1. Certified engines are required to demonstrate that the will operate
>>> satisfactorily with HALF the recommended quantity of oil. Note - - not
half
>>> way between any marks - - half the total quantity. If you fill to the t
op
>>> mark on the dipstick it is quite normal for oil to be expelled, and the
>>> engine will naturally find its own level. Mike recommends to all his cl
ients
>>> that they fill with approximately 2/3 the recommended quantity of oil a
nd
>>> run the engine at that level.
>>>
>>> It would be easy to check the volume of oil in the Jabiru engine at the
>>> lower dipstick mark, and compare that with the quantity of oil that Jab
iru
>>> recommends.
>>>
>>> 2. Mike has found no documented evidence that clearly demonstrates that
>>> the straight 100 [or 80] grade oil is better for running in an engine,
than
>>> the monogrades W100, or W100 plus.
>>>
>>> 3. A multigrade oil is made starting with regular mineral oil [which
>>> becomes less viscous as temperatures rise] at a viscosity of say 15, an
d
>>> adding Viscosity Improvers, which are synthetic, and which increase in
>>> viscosity as temperatures rise. By adjusting the proportion and chemist
ry of
>>> the VI the desired multigrade range can be achieved. However, this is r
eally
>>> only helpful if you have a problem with the viscosity of the oil at col
d
>>> ambient starting temperatures.
>>>
>>> 4. He actively recommends NOT to use a multigrade with synthetic, for
>>> example Aeroshell 15W-50. This is 50% synthetic. At least, this is true
for
>>> engines using leaded fuel. The synthetic oil is not good at scavenging
lead
>>> and other residues from the engine. Furthermore it is a deal more expen
sive.
>>> On the other hand Phillips X/C 20W-50 is a straight mineral oil with on
ly
>>> the VI added, so is OK if you need the lower viscosity at low temperatu
res.
>>>
>>> 5. In an aircraft engine the most fundamental issue is corrosion
>>> prevention, rather than wear prevention. Mineral oil is far better at t
his
>>> than synthetic. Do not compare the requirements of a modern car engine
>>> [temperature closely controlled, tight clearances, higher RPM, unleaded
>>> fuel, etc] with an aircraft engine. The oil requirements are fundamenta
lly
>>> different.
>>>
>>> I found the whole presentation very interesting and helpful.
>>>
>>> Brian
>>>
>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]****
>>>
>>> __._,_.___****
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