Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:59 AM - Re: CHT temp and ram air duct question (FLYaDIVE)
2. 07:02 AM - Re: CHT temp and ram air duct question (FLYaDIVE)
3. 07:08 PM - Re: CHT temp and ram air duct question (Nick Otterback)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: CHT temp and ram air duct question |
Mark:
I could not find a direct link or pictures to the internal cowl material,
but here is the link to Van's. Write them an email or call them. It is
the internal curved part that goes directly over the cowl inlets. They
will know what you are talking about.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi
Barry
On Fri, Jul 13, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Mark Hubelbank <mhubel@nemon.com> wrote:
> Barry,
> Although in the wonderful and seemingly unpredictable world of Jabiru
> cooling, I have improved cooling of my 3300 by removing baffles, this
> sounds interesting, I could not find the picture or part, could you post a
> link.
>
> Mark Hubelbank
> Ch601XL-B
> Jabiru 3300
> Sensenich adj prop
> Rotec TBI-40-3
> 240 Hours airframe
>
> On 07/13/2012 4:43 AM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>
> Jeffery:
>
> Years back I was working on an RV6 that had CHT issues.
> The baffling was perfect and I could not get the Temps down. Then I
> looked at a different RV6 and I notice - WOW - Did I notice something
> different with the inlet ducts. The builder FAILED to install two small
> pieces of fiberglass that should have been glassed to the TOP of the
> cowling right behind the inlet. They were as wide as the inlet - they
> moved back about 3" and then smoothly curved up to the top of the cowl.
> This sounds confusing, but think of it like an inverted wing attached to
> the INSIDE - Upper cowl. I found the parts in his junk box - Installed
> them and WOW! The temps dropped like crazy.
>
> You could go to the RV website and order the fiberglass and give it a
> try.
>
> Barry
>
> On Thu, Jul 12, 2012 at 5:36 PM, Jeffrey J Paris <
> jeffrey-j-paris@excite.com> wrote:
>
>> Dear List,
>>
>> I am runnning a Jab 3300 on a Zenith CH601XLB experimental that I built.
>> The last few years I have been doing my best to get control and manage the
>> cooling of my CHT's. I'm am getting real close to pretty good temps with
>> the addition of some baffles in my ram air ducts. Before the baffles my #4
>> cylinder ran hottest, now that I have that under control my #5 and #6
>> cylinders are running as hottest almost neck to neck. Without going into
>> great detail, I am wondering what is the best action to take with what I
>> assume will be to trim the inner ram airduct baffling to increase airflow
>> to these cylinders without hurting the airflow on cylindeers #3 & #4.
>>
>> Do I work front to back, or back to front and how much do I take off?
>> Thanks for your time and consideration.
>>
>> Jeff Paris 2 Jabs one in a Zentith the other in a Europa. Rochester NY
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: CHT temp and ram air duct question |
Mark:
Here is a picture of the internal ramps.
Barry
On Sat, Jul 14, 2012 at 9:58 AM, FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com> wrote:
> Mark:
>
> I could not find a direct link or pictures to the internal cowl material,
> but here is the link to Van's. Write them an email or call them. It is
> the internal curved part that goes directly over the cowl inlets. They
> will know what you are talking about.
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi
>
> Barry
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 13, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Mark Hubelbank <mhubel@nemon.com> wrote:
>
>> Barry,
>> Although in the wonderful and seemingly unpredictable world of Jabiru
>> cooling, I have improved cooling of my 3300 by removing baffles, this
>> sounds interesting, I could not find the picture or part, could you post a
>> link.
>>
>> Mark Hubelbank
>> Ch601XL-B
>> Jabiru 3300
>> Sensenich adj prop
>> Rotec TBI-40-3
>> 240 Hours airframe
>>
>> On 07/13/2012 4:43 AM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>>
>> Jeffery:
>>
>> Years back I was working on an RV6 that had CHT issues.
>> The baffling was perfect and I could not get the Temps down. Then I
>> looked at a different RV6 and I notice - WOW - Did I notice something
>> different with the inlet ducts. The builder FAILED to install two small
>> pieces of fiberglass that should have been glassed to the TOP of the
>> cowling right behind the inlet. They were as wide as the inlet - they
>> moved back about 3" and then smoothly curved up to the top of the cowl.
>> This sounds confusing, but think of it like an inverted wing attached to
>> the INSIDE - Upper cowl. I found the parts in his junk box - Installed
>> them and WOW! The temps dropped like crazy.
>>
>> You could go to the RV website and order the fiberglass and give it a
>> try.
>>
>> Barry
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 12, 2012 at 5:36 PM, Jeffrey J Paris <
>> jeffrey-j-paris@excite.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Dear List,
>>>
>>> I am runnning a Jab 3300 on a Zenith CH601XLB experimental that I
>>> built. The last few years I have been doing my best to get control and
>>> manage the cooling of my CHT's. I'm am getting real close to pretty good
>>> temps with the addition of some baffles in my ram air ducts. Before the
>>> baffles my #4 cylinder ran hottest, now that I have that under control my
>>> #5 and #6 cylinders are running as hottest almost neck to neck. Without
>>> going into great detail, I am wondering what is the best action to take
>>> with what I assume will be to trim the inner ram airduct baffling to
>>> increase airflow to these cylinders without hurting the airflow on
>>> cylindeers #3 & #4.
>>>
>>> Do I work front to back, or back to front and how much do I take off?
>>> Thanks for your time and consideration.
>>>
>>> Jeff Paris 2 Jabs one in a Zentith the other in a Europa. Rochester NY
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: CHT temp and ram air duct question |
The ramps work well with RV cowl since the top of the engine is sealed to th
e cowl with baffles. Making one large plenum on the top of the engine. The p
rovided airducts from jaboru work very well when installed correctly. Besure
that the plenums fit tightly between the cylinder fins and extend down betw
een the barrles. Do not trim flush with the tops of the barrles. Also the fr
ont of the airduct must have a flat face againt the first clyinder, this goe
s from the bottom of the plenum to about the center head bolt, maybe 3" tall
. Each cylinder needs its own dam installed above it. Usually cyl 5 and 6 ha
ve factory installed dams, trim to fit around the head but do not remove any
more than needed. Clyinders 3 and 4 need about 3/8" to 1/2" tall dam. Cly 1
usually needs nothing and Cly 2 about 1/8". Its all about pressure differen
ce too, make sure your exit area at the bottomw of the cowl is about 2.5 tim
e the inlet area. If this is the case than make sure the lower cowl has abou
t a 2" fixed cowl flap for the entire exit lip. I have a few hours in a 601x
l with the older engine, thick fin heads solid lifter, and it cooled very we
ll on a hot TN day.
Thanks
Nick
Sent from my pocket
On Jul 14, 2012, at 9:02 AM, FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com> wrote:
> Mark:
>
> Here is a picture of the internal ramps.
>
> Barry
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jul 14, 2012 at 9:58 AM, FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com> wrote:
> Mark:
>
> I could not find a direct link or pictures to the internal cowl material, b
ut here is the link to Van's. Write them an email or call them. It is the i
nternal curved part that goes directly over the cowl inlets. They will know
what you are talking about.
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi
>
> Barry
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 13, 2012 at 7:56 AM, Mark Hubelbank <mhubel@nemon.com> wrote:
> Barry,
> Although in the wonderful and seemingly unpredictable world of Jabiru c
ooling, I have improved cooling of my 3300 by removing baffles, this sounds i
nteresting, I could not find the picture or part, could you post a link.
>
> Mark Hubelbank
> Ch601XL-B
> Jabiru 3300
> Sensenich adj prop
> Rotec TBI-40-3
> 240 Hours airframe
>
> On 07/13/2012 4:43 AM, FLYaDIVE wrote:
>> Jeffery:
>>
>> Years back I was working on an RV6 that had CHT issues. The baffling was
perfect and I could not get the Temps down. Then I looked at a different R
V6 and I notice - WOW - Did I notice something different with the inlet duct
s. The builder FAILED to install two small pieces of fiberglass that should
have been glassed to the TOP of the cowling right behind the inlet. They w
ere as wide as the inlet - they moved back about 3" and then smoothly curved
up to the top of the cowl. This sounds confusing, but think of it like an i
nverted wing attached to the INSIDE - Upper cowl. I found the parts in his j
unk box - Installed them and WOW! The temps dropped like crazy.
>>
>> You could go to the RV website and order the fiberglass and give it a try
..
>>
>> Barry
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 12, 2012 at 5:36 PM, Jeffrey J Paris <jeffrey-j-paris@excite.
com> wrote:
>> Dear List,
>>
>> I am runnning a Jab 3300 on a Zenith CH601XLB experimental that I built.
The last few years I have been doing my best to get control and manage the c
ooling of my CHT's. I'm am getting real close to pretty good temps with the
addition of some baffles in my ram air ducts. Before the baffles my #4 cyl
inder ran hottest, now that I have that under control my #5 an
d #6 cylinders are running as hottest almost neck to neck. Without going in
to great detail, I am wondering what is the best action to take with what I a
ssume will be to trim the inner ram airduct baffling to increase airflow to t
hese cylinders without hurting the airflow on cylindeers #3 & #4.
>>
>> Do I work front to back, or back to front and how much do I take off? Th
anks for your time and consideration.
>>
>> Jeff Paris 2 Jabs one in a Zentith the other in a Europa. Rochester NY
>>
>>
>
>
>
> ist" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-Lis
t
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
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