Today's Message Index:
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1. 01:50 PM - Re: oil temp sender (FLYaDIVE)
2. 02:23 PM - Re: oil temp sender (Clive James)
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| Subject: | Re: oil temp sender |
Glan:
Start by checking the probe.
1 - Remove it from the engine .
2 - Get a portable heat source - Hot Plate or Camp Stove
3 - Get a CONTROL unit... Some means of reading a separate temperature
that you KNOW is accurate. Lab thermometer or similar.
4 - Get a OLD pot or can that can be heated - Get some OLD OIL.
Oil works best. It holds temps better than water and can be heated well
into the 300 F range without boiling.
5 - Set up the equipment and test - COMPARE away.
6 - Submerge the probes but keep them off the bottom and sides of the
pot/can.
7 - Both probes - Thermometers should read the SAME.
If not then which one reads HIGH?
Barry
> I am sorry, this has been covered before, but I have oil temp indication
> problems. My 3300 indicates on a Dynon D-180, normal readings until the
> engine gets warmed up well, usually 10 minutes into a flight. Then I get
> instantaneous changes from the 180 range up to around 250F, for various
> random times; several a minute maybe. This is obviously inaccurate and
> false. After landing, taxiing in things settle down and believable readin
gs
> reappear. Wiring has been checked thoroughly and the connector to the
> sender has been cleaned and safety wired so it doesn't vibrate.
> My next thing to do is attack the sender. Is there a way to prove its
> reliability, or should I just pull it and replace. Which leads me to
> question two, what is the preferred or best option to acquire. I see the
> Jabiru sender is in their book as VDO 320 028. Should I stick with that o
r
> is there another, better choice? There is only one wire going to my prese
nt
> sender, and I am in USA.
> thanks...George Andr=E9, Arion Lightning, Jab 3300 S/N 987.
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: oil temp sender |
Or drop it in a kettle and boil it up for a spot check at 212/100.
On 7 Oct 2014, at 21:49, FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com> wrote:
> Glan:
>
> Start by checking the probe.
> 1 - Remove it from the engine .
> 2 - Get a portable heat source - Hot Plate or Camp Stove
> 3 - Get a CONTROL unit... Some means of reading a separate
temperature that you KNOW is accurate. Lab thermometer or similar.
> 4 - Get a OLD pot or can that can be heated - Get some OLD OIL.
> Oil works best. It holds temps better than water and can be heated
well into the 300 F range without boiling.
> 5 - Set up the equipment and test - COMPARE away.
> 6 - Submerge the probes but keep them off the bottom and sides of the
pot/can.
> 7 - Both probes - Thermometers should read the SAME.
>
> If not then which one reads HIGH?
>
> Barry
>
>
>
> I am sorry, this has been covered before, but I have oil temp
indication problems. My 3300 indicates on a Dynon D-180, normal readings
until the engine gets warmed up well, usually 10 minutes into a flight.
Then I get instantaneous changes from the 180 range up to around 250F,
for various random times; several a minute maybe. This is obviously
inaccurate and false. After landing, taxiing in things settle down and
believable readings reappear. Wiring has been checked thoroughly and the
connector to the sender has been cleaned and safety wired so it doesn't
vibrate.
> My next thing to do is attack the sender. Is there a way to prove its
reliability, or should I just pull it and replace. Which leads me to
question two, what is the preferred or best option to acquire. I see the
Jabiru sender is in their book as VDO 320 028. Should I stick with that
or is there another, better choice? There is only one wire going to my
present sender, and I am in USA.
> thanks=85George Andr=E9, Arion Lightning, Jab 3300 S/N 987.
>
>
>
>
>
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