Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 09:34 AM - Just A Few Days Left... (Matt Dralle)
1. 06:00 AM - Re: Cold Start (FLYaDIVE)
2. 10:54 AM - Re: Cold Start (Gary Aman)
3. 11:01 AM - Re: Cold Start (Pete Krotje)
4. 11:40 AM - Test (James Crowder)
Message 0
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Subject: | Just A Few Days Left... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a few days left for this year's List Fund Raiser. If you've been
putting off making a Contribution until the last minute, well, this is it!
The last minute, that is... :-) There are some GREAT new gift selections to choose
from this year. I personally want at least three of them! There's probably
something you can't live without too! And, best of all it supports your
Lists!
Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists
and the *only* means of keeping these Lists running is through your Contributions
during this Fund Raiser. Let's make this a "Black Friday" for the Lists!
Please make a Contribution today!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 1
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Bobby:
Yes, there is a difference / reason why you do not use flat feeler gauges
on curved surfaces and you did find out about that. The operation of
cutting the feeler gauge also brings up a possible issue of the edges
curling up. This is not a good machine shop practice. Yes, I know you are
not working under machine shop/Mil Spec requirements; but after all you did
arrive at the problem with improper tools. It is very good that Gary
recognized the problem and the cure was easy. It is very good that you
checked and corrected the gap. It's amazing how such a small thing could
cause all these starting problems.
Just for S&G's... Get brass gauge pins and triple check your gaps. The
reason for pins Vs flat stock is to reduce the contact area and be able to
match the curvature. More than likely you will not find any difference,
unless there is drag because of the cut edges. I do see a inspection
problem. You will have to use two (2) pins at the same time and that makes
for extra aggravation.
I make these statements on machine shop/Mil Spec procedures because I
worked in Mil Spec machine shops for a huge part of my work career as a
machinist and QA Manager.
Barry
<jwd3ca@gmail.com> wrote:
> Nothing wrong with using a flat (but flexible) feeler gauge. Here's what
> works for me: get yourself a *brass* .010 feeler gauge (or shim stock).
> Makes no difference how wide it is, about 1/2" is good, and it needs to be
> long enough to bridge the two coil posts. Loosen the coil hold-down screws,
> lift up the coil and place the brass strip between the coil arms and the
> flywheel magnets. The coil will stick itself to the magnets, with the strip
> in between. Tighten up the screws and work the brass strip out. Voila,
> perfectly set .010" gap. Repeat for the other coil.
>
> On 22 November 2014 at 17:51, FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Good Job Bobby...
>>
>> But, you do not use flat feeler gauges on curved surfaces - As you found
>> out. Get a few sizes of Gauge Wires... Wires as in cylindrical. You may
>> want to make up a set of Go / No-Go gauges.
>>
>> BUT! GOOD JOB and solving the problem.
>>
>> Good Job Gary!
>>
>> Barry
>>
>> On Sat, Nov 22, 2014 at 4:43 PM, <BobbyPaulk@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>> List
>>> Many thanks to Gary Aman for telling about setting the air gap between
>>> the magnets and the pickup coils to .008.
>>> I had been checking mine at every "conditional" with a .010 flat 1/2"
>>> wide feeler gauge and getting a nice snug fit. What I was not aware of was
>>> the curvature of the flywheel was causing the drag on the feeler gauge. I
>>> cut the feeler gauge in half the long way and found out that the true gap
>>> was .012 at 3 places and .014 at another.
>>> I cut 2 pieces of a .008 thick feeler gauge and put a small section at
>>> each end of the magnet air gap near each bolt. I held the coil snugly
>>> against the feeler gauges and tightened the bolts.
>>> After doing both coils we pushed the plane out and it started on the 3rd
>>> or 4th blade from sitting cold all night. It was not as cold as it was last
>>> Sat (mid 40's at night but warmed up to 62 ). It has never started that
>>> easily even when new. The .010 would probably be O.K. but I went with the
>>> .008 since the cold weather is just starting.
>>> We are going to do the same thing to the 2200 at the nearby airport
>>> when the owner returns from vacation.
>>> I will let you know how it comes out.
>>>
>>>
>>> Bobby ( age 76 )
>>> Zodiac 601 XL "B"
>>> Jabiru 3300 S/N 1141
>>> Sensenich 64" x 51" Prop
>>> Bing Carb 260 Main & 290 Needle Jet
>>> Status - Flying 235 hrs.
>>>
>>>
>>>
Message 2
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Those of us in our mid 70's aren't quite so technical. We've found that 2 thickness'
of news print placed between the magnets and the pickups works pretty good,even
holds itself there while you snug up the bolts. Hope the newspaper people
have held their tolerances close to .004,cause I haven't checked lately. G
A
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 23, 2014, at 8:59 AM, FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> .
Message 3
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A typical business card works well also.
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Aman
Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2014 12:54 PM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Cold Start
Those of us in our mid 70's aren't quite so technical. We've found that 2
thickness' of news print placed between the magnets and the pickups works
pretty good,even holds itself there while you snug up the bolts. Hope the
newspaper people have held their tolerances close to .004,cause I haven't
checked lately. G A
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 23, 2014, at 8:59 AM, FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> .
Message 4
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