Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:53 AM - Re: Jabiru 2200 right mag. option (Rob Turk)
2. 08:16 AM - Re: Jabiru 2200 right mag. option (robert Haas)
3. 08:33 AM - Up Date (BobbyPaulk@comcast.net)
4. 08:37 AM - Re: Jabiru 2200 right mag. option (Rob Turk)
5. 09:34 AM - Re: Up Date (robert Haas)
6. 10:53 AM - Re: Jabiru 2200 right mag. option (robert Haas)
7. 11:37 AM - Re: CHT sensor Installation (James Missler)
8. 12:17 PM - Re: CHT sensor Installation (Rob Turk)
9. 12:30 PM - Re: Jabiru 2200 right mag. option (Rob Turk)
10. 01:56 PM - Re: Jabiru 2200 right mag. option (robert Haas)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 2200 right mag. option |
Hello Robert,
The coils are standard parts for Jabiru, there are no big and small
versions.
What problem are you trying to fix?
Rob
On 2/12/2015 10:01 PM, robert Haas wrote:
> <checkpoint3@comcast.net>
>
> I need a smaller right coil and hall effect sensor for a 2200
> Jabiru engine. Bob Haas, checkpoint3@comcast.net. FL. USA.
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 2200 right mag. option |
Greetings , I need a thinner dimension where the
coil attaches to the stand off mounts on the rear in order to run a
alternator belt to a pulley
mounted on the end of the crank. It seems that the alignment of the drive
pulley , interferes with the driven pulley on the mounted alternator.
If I could fine a hall sensor that would mount at the original position,
then I could locate the coil nearby and supply voltage to the distributer.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Turk
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2015 9:41 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru 2200 right mag. option
Hello Robert,
The coils are standard parts for Jabiru, there are no big and small
versions.
What problem are you trying to fix?
Rob
On 2/12/2015 10:01 PM, robert Haas wrote:
> <checkpoint3@comcast.net>
>
> I need a smaller right coil and hall effect sensor for a 2200
> Jabiru engine. Bob Haas, checkpoint3@comcast.net. FL. USA.
>
Message 3
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List
While I was re-building the flywheel / coil / ignition area on the back of my engine
I took my starter to a friend and owner of a starter / generator shop to
have it cleaned, lubed and checked out. He said the bolts holding it together
were loose and the armature had beat the bearings into the case and it was not
rebuild-able. Both front and rear bearings had done so. The back side of the
starter is Nippon-Denso and could be replaced but the front adapter is a Jabiru
part. I am looking at welding and turning it back to specs.
It turns out after much study that the starter was key to my hard start problems
from the get go. If it was dragging it would not turn the engine fast enough
to fire the magnetos that do not have impulse couplings. ( 300 rpm ) So that
sent me off in the direction I took to tighten the air gap between the magnets
and the coils as some others have done with success to get a stronger spark.
.
Although I had a 45 minute flight on it I apparently had set the gap a little too
tight and on the second flight as the engine warmed up it caused the magnet
retention bar to collide with the plates holding the coils. The two small screws
holding one of the magnet retention bars sheared and pushed the coils away
from the magnets which cut off the ignition causing the off field landing.
Please put the starter on your "Condition" inspection list or check it when you
have the cowl off. My visual exam of the starter was to try to move it by hand
and if it was snug I thought it was o.k. The bolts loosened somewhere between
220 hours and 239 on the hobbs causing the failure. I will make sure the bolts
will have Loctite on them when they go back and check the torque on a regular
basis.
I am re-placing the left coil with the Ro-Tec E-Mag and a friend who is doing the
same is giving me his original left coil.
bobby
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 2200 right mag. option |
The location and dimensions of the coil are crucial to proper spark
timing, you cannot just move it around to some other position. I'm not
sure if you are trying to re-invent the wheel, but there are two
companies already selling belt-drive alternator conversions that fit the
engine as-is:
CAMit:
http://camitaeroengines.net/collections/ancillary-parts/products/kit-alternator-40amp-2200
Rotec: http://www.rotecaerosport.com/products/jab/alt/
If you are looking for just a bit more current than the older 10A
generator provides, then you can opt to get a 20-25A Jabiru generator
which fits right onto the flywheel.
Rob
On 2/13/2015 5:15 PM, robert Haas wrote:
> <checkpoint3@comcast.net>
>
> Greetings , I need a thinner dimension where
> the coil attaches to the stand off mounts on the rear in order to run
> a alternator belt to a pulley
> mounted on the end of the crank. It seems that the alignment of the
> drive pulley , interferes with the driven pulley on the mounted
> alternator.
> If I could fine a hall sensor that would mount at the original
> position, then I could locate the coil nearby and supply voltage to
> the distributer.
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Rob Turk
> Sent: Friday, February 13, 2015 9:41 AM
> To: jabiruengine-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru 2200 right mag. option
>
>
> Hello Robert,
>
> The coils are standard parts for Jabiru, there are no big and small
> versions.
> What problem are you trying to fix?
>
> Rob
>
> On 2/12/2015 10:01 PM, robert Haas wrote:
>> <checkpoint3@comcast.net>
>>
>> I need a smaller right coil and hall effect sensor for a 2200
>> Jabiru engine. Bob Haas, checkpoint3@comcast.net. FL. USA.
>>
>
>
Message 5
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Thanks for the information, I=99ll check it.
From: BobbyPaulk@comcast.net
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2015 11:33 AM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Up Date
List
While I was re-building the flywheel / coil / ignition area on the back
of my engine I took my starter to a friend and owner of a starter /
generator shop to have it cleaned, lubed and checked out. He said the
bolts holding it together were loose and the armature had beat the
bearings into the case and it was not rebuild-able. Both front and rear
bearings had done so. The back side of the starter is Nippon-Denso and
could be replaced but the front adapter is a Jabiru part. I am looking
at welding and turning it back to specs.
It turns out after much study that the starter was key to my hard start
problems from the get go. If it was dragging it would not turn the
engine fast enough to fire the magnetos that do not have impulse
couplings. ( 300 rpm ) So that sent me off in the direction I took to
tighten the air gap between the magnets and the coils as some others
have done with success to get a stronger spark. .
Although I had a 45 minute flight on it I apparently had set the gap a
little too tight and on the second flight as the engine warmed up it
caused the magnet retention bar to collide with the plates holding the
coils. The two small screws holding one of the magnet retention bars
sheared and pushed the coils away from the magnets which cut off the
ignition causing the off field landing.
Please put the starter on your "Condition" inspection list or check it
when you have the cowl off. My visual exam of the starter was to try to
move it by hand and if it was snug I thought it was o.k. The bolts
loosened somewhere between 220 hours and 239 on the hobbs causing the
failure. I will make sure the bolts will have Loctite on them when they
go back and check the torque on a regular basis.
I am re-placing the left coil with the Ro-Tec E-Mag and a friend who is
doing the same is giving me his original left coil.
bobby
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 2200 right mag. option |
Rob, I understand Hall effect works. There is an option, look at the
Rotec E-ignition upgrade, and notice the components. The hall effect
sensor is remoted via the ignition module to the coil. The Hall sensor
triggers the coil because it is positioned as the original coil magneto to
the
fly wheel. What is the origin of that set up? Where did Rotec find it?
Where can I buy one here in the States? Thanks for your insight to my
problem.
Bob Haas.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Turk
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2015 11:36 AM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru 2200 right mag. option
The location and dimensions of the coil are crucial to proper spark
timing, you cannot just move it around to some other position. I'm not
sure if you are trying to re-invent the wheel, but there are two
companies already selling belt-drive alternator conversions that fit the
engine as-is:
CAMit:
http://camitaeroengines.net/collections/ancillary-parts/products/kit-alternator-40amp-2200
Rotec: http://www.rotecaerosport.com/products/jab/alt/
If you are looking for just a bit more current than the older 10A
generator provides, then you can opt to get a 20-25A Jabiru generator
which fits right onto the flywheel.
Rob
On 2/13/2015 5:15 PM, robert Haas wrote:
> <checkpoint3@comcast.net>
>
> Greetings , I need a thinner dimension where the
> coil attaches to the stand off mounts on the rear in order to run a
> alternator belt to a pulley
> mounted on the end of the crank. It seems that the alignment of the drive
> pulley , interferes with the driven pulley on the mounted alternator.
> If I could fine a hall sensor that would mount at the original position,
> then I could locate the coil nearby and supply voltage to the distributer.
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Rob Turk
> Sent: Friday, February 13, 2015 9:41 AM
> To: jabiruengine-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru 2200 right mag. option
>
>
> Hello Robert,
>
> The coils are standard parts for Jabiru, there are no big and small
> versions.
> What problem are you trying to fix?
>
> Rob
>
> On 2/12/2015 10:01 PM, robert Haas wrote:
>> <checkpoint3@comcast.net>
>>
>> I need a smaller right coil and hall effect sensor for a 2200
>> Jabiru engine. Bob Haas, checkpoint3@comcast.net. FL. USA.
>>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: CHT sensor Installation |
Regarding CHT sensor installation, has anyone tried connecting to the Allen key
headed bolt between the spark plugs? Since my Ser. #22A976 Mod. 2200 does not
have the pilot hole between the spark plugs as described in Procedure AVDALSR085-1
why not connect to this existing bolt. Since I already know my cylinders
are running in the proper temp. range all I need to know is if there is a sudden
change in any one or all of them. I'm not really concerned what the actual
temp. is, just if there is a change. I of coarse would tighten the head bolt
back to its proper torque. Any one have any thoughts on this. Also does anyone
have information on installing Vortex generators on the wings and all tail surfaces?
Jim Missler
974 W. Main St.
Bellevue, Ohio 44811
419-271-4279
Installed in Kitfox III
100 Hrs. Total Time
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: CHT sensor Installation |
The issue with that is that the allen bolt is torqued to quite a high
tension. The CHT ring is made of soft copper, which will simply compress
and break when you properly torque that bolt. If the CHT ring does not
break right away, the bolt will gradually squeeze the soft copper and
will lose tension. That will cause blow-by.
I have the same old heads, and if you look down between the spark plugs,
there's an 8mm hole/cavity in the heads. I have obtained 8mm
thermocouple probes which snugly fit inside. I compared the readings
against the under-the-spark value and found about 40degC higher values.
Rob
On 2/13/2015 8:36 PM, James Missler wrote:
>
> Regarding CHT sensor installation, has anyone tried connecting to the Allen key
headed bolt between the spark plugs? Since my Ser. #22A976 Mod. 2200 does not
have the pilot hole between the spark plugs as described in Procedure AVDALSR085-1
why not connect to this existing bolt. Since I already know my cylinders
are running in the proper temp. range all I need to know is if there is a sudden
change in any one or all of them. I'm not really concerned what the actual
temp. is, just if there is a change. I of coarse would tighten the head bolt
back to its proper torque. Any one have any thoughts on this. Also does anyone
have information on installing Vortex generators on the wings and all tail
surfaces?
> Jim Missler
> 974 W. Main St.
> Bellevue, Ohio 44811
> 419-271-4279
> Installed in Kitfox III
> 100 Hrs. Total Time
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 2200 right mag. option |
Hi Robert,
I own a Rotec ignition set, so I have used that hall sensor. Rotec
produces them themselves. They machined a simple aluminum bracket, then
potted a standard hall sensor (looks like TO-92 transistor) into a
little cube and mounted it on the bracket. It is crude but it works.
With the original Jabiru ignition coil, the magnet on the flywheel
directly generates the energy to produce a spark. With the Rotec sensor,
the magnet is only used to sense the position, the spark is produced by
a separate ignition module and ignition coil. Rotec has used this
combination of sensor, ignition module and coil for their radial engines
and adapted the sensor for use on Jabiru engines later on.
The Rotec hall sensor is indeed much smaller than the Jabiru coil, so if
that fixes your problem, go ahead and buy their kit. They are happy to
send one across the pond. As a bonus you get better cold weather starting.
Rob
On 2/13/2015 7:53 PM, robert Haas wrote:
> <checkpoint3@comcast.net>
>
> Rob, I understand Hall effect works. There is an option, look at
> the Rotec E-ignition upgrade, and notice the components. The hall effect
> sensor is remoted via the ignition module to the coil. The Hall
> sensor triggers the coil because it is positioned as the original coil
> magneto to the
> fly wheel. What is the origin of that set up? Where did Rotec find
> it? Where can I buy one here in the States? Thanks for your insight to
> my problem.
> Bob Haas.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Jabiru 2200 right mag. option |
Hey Rob, Thanks for the info, It never gets below 40' here in SW FL, so
starting is no factor. I bought the alternator kit from Rotec, it is a good
kit
and value for the money. But , when I told them it would not work on my
Alpi Pioneer, the quit talking to me. That explains why I cant fine a
commercial
application. I will purchase the Ignition if I can't come up with some
thing else. Thanks again, Bob Haas.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Turk
Sent: Friday, February 13, 2015 3:29 PM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Jabiru 2200 right mag. option
Hi Robert,
I own a Rotec ignition set, so I have used that hall sensor. Rotec
produces them themselves. They machined a simple aluminum bracket, then
potted a standard hall sensor (looks like TO-92 transistor) into a
little cube and mounted it on the bracket. It is crude but it works.
With the original Jabiru ignition coil, the magnet on the flywheel
directly generates the energy to produce a spark. With the Rotec sensor,
the magnet is only used to sense the position, the spark is produced by
a separate ignition module and ignition coil. Rotec has used this
combination of sensor, ignition module and coil for their radial engines
and adapted the sensor for use on Jabiru engines later on.
The Rotec hall sensor is indeed much smaller than the Jabiru coil, so if
that fixes your problem, go ahead and buy their kit. They are happy to
send one across the pond. As a bonus you get better cold weather starting.
Rob
On 2/13/2015 7:53 PM, robert Haas wrote:
> <checkpoint3@comcast.net>
>
> Rob, I understand Hall effect works. There is an option, look at the
> Rotec E-ignition upgrade, and notice the components. The hall effect
> sensor is remoted via the ignition module to the coil. The Hall sensor
> triggers the coil because it is positioned as the original coil magneto to
> the
> fly wheel. What is the origin of that set up? Where did Rotec find it?
> Where can I buy one here in the States? Thanks for your insight to my
> problem.
> Bob Haas.
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