Today's Message Index:
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1. 04:10 AM - Re: Timing (James Clive)
2. 04:17 AM - Re: Timing (curts63)
3. 07:45 AM - Re: Timing (Pete Krotje)
4. 11:22 AM - Re: Timing (James Clive)
5. 12:08 PM - Re: Timing (Pete Krotje)
Message 1
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I had problems and adjusted the timing a few times, turned out to be the
magnets so do the =98pull test=99 to make sure.
=46rom your comments below and from what I remember.
The rotors don=99t look parallel to each other when they are in
the correct position. See pictures.
You can see this without taking it all apart again look from left side
of engine with dizzy caps out of the way.
With the engine at 25 deg BTC the rotor arms 'leading edge' of the metal
bit must be in line with the timing marks.
See ruler against mark in the not very well taken picture.
Not the middle of the metal tab but the leading edge. right in the
picture I think, might be left, move the engine to see which way the
rotors move forward.
JEM explains it like this:
and provided the timing mark lines up with the tip of the cap it will
work properly
I think I sussed out =98tip of the cap=99 meant leading edge
of the metal bit.
Find TDC with screwdriver down the plug hole and then wind the engine
back 25 degrees. That is 30mm measured on the prop hub circumference
(hub is 140mm dia)
140 * 3.142, /360x25???
The gearing is such that one tooth will put it out enough to see so you
know whether you have it right.
That=99s what I recall and it was a few months ago so sorry if I
got any of it wrong.
Of course if it=99s nothing to do with the timing then good luck!
Regards, Clive
> On 20 Mar 2015, at 01:19, BobbyPaulk@comcast.net wrote:
>
> List
> I am need of help.
> I had the flywheel and the back end of the engine removed to make
repairs. The drives for both mags were removed and re-installed. ( I
didn't need to do this but it was too late when I realized it. )
> I purchased a degree wheel and found TDC of No. 1 by going about 30
degrees before and 30 degrees past ( measuring the piston down travel
the same ) and splitting the difference to find the center of the dead
spot. I lined up both rotor buttons with the timing marks on the side of
the distributor support at 25 deg. BTC and made sure they were parallel.
We did this about 12 to 15 times until we were satisfied it was correct.
When the engine is at TDC on #1 the rotors are pointing to #1 on the
distributor cap.
> I used a Honda Coil on the right side and the Rotec E-Mag on the left.
> The engine started but ran very, very rough and sounded like it was
out of time. It also would not run with the choke off nor would it take
the throttle. We used fresh 100 LL and took the bowl off the carb and
made sure we had plenty of fuel flow with the elec. boost pump.
> The engine would start easily but ran very rough and would not take
the throttle even after warm up. Outside temp was 72 F. deg.
> Going to either one mag made no difference in how the engine ran
although you could hear a little drop in RPM.
> Can anyone offer a solution. I sure do not want to remove the engine
and flywheel and start over. Could I be a tooth off on the
distributors??
> The carb was removed from the rubber connector and left on the
aircraft while the engine was removed and on a stand and not touched
during this time ( all linkage remained in tact.
>
> Bobby
>
> Zodiac 601 XL "B"
> Jabiru 3300 S/N 1141
> Sensenich 64" x 51" Prop
> Bing Carb 260 Main & 290 Needle Jet
> Status - Flying 236 hrs.
>
>
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List>
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>
Message 2
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Not being an expert or even a beginner in Jabiru engines, my only question would
be, are you on TDC for the compression stroke?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=439662#439662
Message 3
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Bobby,
1. Find TDC on the compression stroke.
2. Make a mark on one of the flywheel teeth and the gearcase
cover.
3. Count seven teeth on the flywheel in the direction of rotation
(clockwise) and make another mark on that tooth
4. Then turn the crankshaft (prop) counter clockwise (opposite of
the direction of rotation) until the second mark lines up with the first
reference mark on the gearcase.
5. Set the distributor shafts so that the rotor points to the
timing mark on the distributor base.
You will most likely have to remove the flywheel anyway as you will have
to lift the gearcase cover to change the distributor alighment. Lifting
the cover will break the Loctite 515 seal so you will have to reapply
the Loctite. If you remove the flywheel:
1. Line up the timing marks on the crank gear and cam gear.
2. Temporarily put the flywheel in place.
3. Turn the crankshaft backwards seven teeth
4. Remove the flywheel
5. Install the gearcase cover setting the distributor shafts so
the rotor points to the timing mark as you install the cover
6. Reinstall flywheel
Hope this helps
Pete Krotje
Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
931-680-2800
www.usjabiru.com
Office Hours:
Mon - Thur 9:00am to noon and 1:00pm to 4:00 pm Central Time
Friday 9:00 am to 1:00pm Central Time
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BobbyPaulk@comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 8:20 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Timing
List
I am need of help.
I had the flywheel and the back end of the engine removed to make
repairs. The drives for both mags were removed and re-installed. ( I
didn't need to do this but it was too late when I realized it. )
I purchased a degree wheel and found TDC of No. 1 by going about 30
degrees before and 30 degrees past ( measuring the piston down travel
the same ) and splitting the difference to find the center of the dead
spot. I lined up both rotor buttons with the timing marks on the side of
the distributor support at 25 deg. BTC and made sure they were parallel.
We did this about 12 to 15 times until we were satisfied it was correct.
When the engine is at TDC on #1 the rotors are pointing to #1 on the
distributor cap.
I used a Honda Coil on the right side and the Rotec E-Mag on the left.
The engine started but ran very, very rough and sounded like it was out
of time. It also would not run with the choke off nor would it take the
throttle. We used fresh 100 LL and took the bowl off the carb and made
sure we had plenty of fuel flow with the elec. boost pump.
The engine would start easily but ran very rough and would not take the
throttle even after warm up. Outside temp was 72 F. deg.
Going to either one mag made no difference in how the engine ran
although you could hear a little drop in RPM.
Can anyone offer a solution. I sure do not want to remove the engine and
flywheel and start over. Could I be a tooth off on the distributors??
The carb was removed from the rubber connector and left on the aircraft
while the engine was removed and on a stand and not touched during this
time ( all linkage remained in tact.
Bobby
Zodiac 601 XL "B"
Jabiru 3300 S/N 1141
Sensenich 64" x 51" Prop
Bing Carb 260 Main & 290 Needle Jet
Status - Flying 236 hrs.
Message 4
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Pete, middle left or right side of rotor?, metal bit is about 10mm wide,
what does =98points' at mean ?
'so the rotor points to the timing mark'
ta, Clive
> On 20 Mar 2015, at 14:44, Pete Krotje <pete@usjabiru.com> wrote:
>
> Bobby,
> 1. Find TDC on the compression stroke.
> 2. Make a mark on one of the flywheel teeth and the gearcase
cover.
> 3. Count seven teeth on the flywheel in the direction of
rotation (clockwise) and make another mark on that tooth
> 4. Then turn the crankshaft (prop) counter clockwise (opposite
of the direction of rotation) until the second mark lines up with the
first reference mark on the gearcase.
> 5. Set the distributor shafts so that the rotor points to the
timing mark on the distributor base.
> You will most likely have to remove the flywheel anyway as you will
have to lift the gearcase cover to change the distributor alignment.
Lifting the cover will break the Loctite 515 seal so you will have to
reapply the Loctite. If you remove the flywheel:
> 1. Line up the timing marks on the crank gear and cam gear.
> 2. Temporarily put the flywheel in place.
> 3. Turn the crankshaft backwards seven teeth
> 4. Remove the flywheel
> 5. Install the gearcase cover setting the distributor shafts so
the rotor points to the timing mark as you install the cover
> 6. Reinstall flywheel
> Hope this helps
>
> Pete Krotje
> Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
> 931-680-2800
> www.usjabiru.com
> Office Hours:
> Mon - Thur 9:00am to noon and 1:00pm to 4:00 pm Central Time
> Friday 9:00 am to 1:00pm Central Time
>
>
>
> From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BobbyPaulk@comcast.net
> Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 8:20 PM
> To: Server, JabiruEngine-List Digest
> Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Timing
>
> List
> I am need of help.
> I had the flywheel and the back end of the engine removed to make
repairs. The drives for both mags were removed and re-installed. ( I
didn't need to do this but it was too late when I realized it. )
> I purchased a degree wheel and found TDC of No. 1 by going about 30
degrees before and 30 degrees past ( measuring the piston down travel
the same ) and splitting the difference to find the center of the dead
spot. I lined up both rotor buttons with the timing marks on the side of
the distributor support at 25 deg. BTC and made sure they were parallel.
We did this about 12 to 15 times until we were satisfied it was correct.
When the engine is at TDC on #1 the rotors are pointing to #1 on the
distributor cap.
> I used a Honda Coil on the right side and the Rotec E-Mag on the left.
> The engine started but ran very, very rough and sounded like it was
out of time. It also would not run with the choke off nor would it take
the throttle. We used fresh 100 LL and took the bowl off the carb and
made sure we had plenty of fuel flow with the elec. boost pump.
> The engine would start easily but ran very rough and would not take
the throttle even after warm up. Outside temp was 72 F. deg.
> Going to either one mag made no difference in how the engine ran
although you could hear a little drop in RPM.
> Can anyone offer a solution. I sure do not want to remove the engine
and flywheel and start over. Could I be a tooth off on the
distributors??
> The carb was removed from the rubber connector and left on the
aircraft while the engine was removed and on a stand and not touched
during this time ( all linkage remained in tact.
>
> Bobby
>
> Zodiac 601 XL "B"
> Jabiru 3300 S/N 1141
> Sensenich 64" x 51" Prop
> Bing Carb 260 Main & 290 Needle Jet
> Status - Flying 236 hrs.
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List>
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>
Message 5
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It does not matter.
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of James
Clive
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2015 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: JabiruEngine-List: Timing
Pete, middle left or right side of rotor?, metal bit is about 10mm wide,
what does =98points' at mean ?
'so the rotor points to the timing mark'
ta, Clive
On 20 Mar 2015, at 14:44, Pete Krotje <pete@usjabiru.com> wrote:
Bobby,
1. Find TDC on the compression stroke.
2. Make a mark on one of the flywheel teeth and the gearcase cover.
3. Count seven teeth on the flywheel in the direction of rotation
(clockwise) and make another mark on that tooth
4. Then turn the crankshaft (prop) counter clockwise (opposite of
the direction of rotation) until the second mark lines up with the first
reference mark on the gearcase.
5. Set the distributor shafts so that the rotor points to the
timing mark on the distributor base.
You will most likely have to remove the flywheel anyway as you will have
to lift the gearcase cover to change the distributor alignment. Lifting
the cover will break the Loctite 515 seal so you will have to reapply
the Loctite. If you remove the flywheel:
1. Line up the timing marks on the crank gear and cam gear.
2. Temporarily put the flywheel in place.
3. Turn the crankshaft backwards seven teeth
4. Remove the flywheel
5. Install the gearcase cover setting the distributor shafts so the
rotor points to the timing mark as you install the cover
6. Reinstall flywheel
Hope this helps
Pete Krotje
Jabiru USA Sport Aircraft, LLC
931-680-2800
www.usjabiru.com
Office Hours:
Mon - Thur 9:00am to noon and 1:00pm to 4:00 pm Central Time
Friday 9:00 am to 1:00pm Central Time
From: owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-jabiruengine-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BobbyPaulk@comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 8:20 PM
Subject: JabiruEngine-List: Timing
List
I am need of help.
I had the flywheel and the back end of the engine removed to make
repairs. The drives for both mags were removed and re-installed. ( I
didn't need to do this but it was too late when I realized it. )
I purchased a degree wheel and found TDC of No. 1 by going about 30
degrees before and 30 degrees past ( measuring the piston down travel
the same ) and splitting the difference to find the center of the dead
spot. I lined up both rotor buttons with the timing marks on the side of
the distributor support at 25 deg. BTC and made sure they were parallel.
We did this about 12 to 15 times until we were satisfied it was correct.
When the engine is at TDC on #1 the rotors are pointing to #1 on the
distributor cap.
I used a Honda Coil on the right side and the Rotec E-Mag on the left.
The engine started but ran very, very rough and sounded like it was out
of time. It also would not run with the choke off nor would it take the
throttle. We used fresh 100 LL and took the bowl off the carb and made
sure we had plenty of fuel flow with the elec. boost pump.
The engine would start easily but ran very rough and would not take the
throttle even after warm up. Outside temp was 72 F. deg.
Going to either one mag made no difference in how the engine ran
although you could hear a little drop in RPM.
Can anyone offer a solution. I sure do not want to remove the engine and
flywheel and start over. Could I be a tooth off on the distributors??
The carb was removed from the rubber connector and left on the aircraft
while the engine was removed and on a stand and not touched during this
time ( all linkage remained in tact.
Bobby
Zodiac 601 XL "B"
Jabiru 3300 S/N 1141
Sensenich 64" x 51" Prop
Bing Carb 260 Main & 290 Needle Jet
Status - Flying 236 hrs.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?JabiruEngine-List
http://forums.matronics.com
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