Today's Message Index:
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0. 12:14 AM - PLEASE READ - Matronics Email List Fund Raiser During November! (Matt Dralle)
1. 05:05 AM - electrics (Alfred Rosa)
2. 05:54 AM - Re: electrics (Galin Hernandez)
3. 04:18 PM - Re: electrics (Flyinisfun@aol.com)
4. 04:44 PM - Re: electrics (Alfred Rosa)
5. 05:13 PM - Re: electrics (Galin Hernandez)
6. 07:43 PM - Re: electrics (Alfred Rosa)
Message 0
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| Subject: | PLEASE READ - Matronics Email List Fund Raiser During November! |
Dear Listers,
Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation and upgrade of the List services at Matronics. It's solely through the Contributions of List members that these Matronics Lists are possible. There is NO advertising to support the Lists. You might have noticed the conspicuous lack of flashing banners and annoying pop-ups on the Matronics Email List email messages and web site pages such as the Matronics List Forums ( http://forums.matronics.com ), the List Wiki ( http://wiki.matronics.com), or other related pages such as the List Search Engine ( http://www.matronics.com/search ), the List Browser ( http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse ), etc. This is because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisements.
During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every couple of
days reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. I ask for your patience
and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages.
The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all
of the bills associated with running these lists. Your personal Contribution
counts!
Once again, this year I've got a terrific line up of free gifts to go along with
the various Contribution levels. Most all of these gifts have been provided
by some of the vary members and vendors that you'll find on Matronics Lists and
have been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates.
This year, these generous people include Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric Connection (http://www.aeroelectric.com/), Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore (http://www.buildersbooks.com/), and Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP (http://www.homebuilthelp.com/).
These are extremely generous guys and I encourage you to visit their respective
web sites. Each one offers a unique and very useful aviation-related product
line. I would like publicly to thank Bob, Andy, and Jon for their generous support
of the Lists again this year!!
You can make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods this
year including using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods
afford you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with
a qualifying Contribution amount!!
To make your Contribution, please visit the secure site below:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral
support over the years!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 1
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Another question: If I decide to go to 28VDC for whatever reason. my
20A switches would then be 10A switches. Right?
Al
Message 2
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Maybe.
Switches are actually rated based on the power (Watts) they can handle. This
is governed by Ohms Law which states that Voltage * Amps = Watts. 12V * 20A
= 240W. At 28V the same switch can only handle 8.57A (240W / 28V = 8.57A).
Check the switch you want to use at what voltage and amps it is rated for.
If it is rated for 20A at 14V then you are basically correct. If rated for
20A at 28V then you still have a 20A switch.
Also, switches are designed with a maximum voltage. Above that the internal
"dielectric" may short out.
Galin
N819PR
On Sun, Nov 1, 2009 at 6:58 AM, Alfred Rosa <76papa@dishmail.net> wrote:
>
> Another question: If I decide to go to 28VDC for whatever reason. my 20A
> switches would then be 10A switches. Right?
>
> Al
>
>
Message 3
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I've been watching your communication and thought I would add a thought or
two. You might consider putting in one switch handle type breaker that
feeds what you would think of as a avionics bus. In this case you can kill
all radios with one switch handle. Course if you do this kind of breakdown
you would feed from the master breaker for the avionics to smaller size
breakers to feed the com radio, transponder, auto pilot or any units that you
want off when you crank the engine. Once the engine starts all you have to
do is move one breaker handle and power is fed to all these units. Also in
that case you would go from each breaker directly to the item without a
switch of any sort in between. The switch on the device will be available if
you need to shut that particular unit off. I have a transponder that has
a recommendation to be fused at 4 amps. The com is recommended to be fused
at 3 amps, etc. You can line up three or four rows of pop out fuses on
the upper right panel area and feed them for what ever use from master
switched breakers located in the lower area of the panel just to the right of
the
engine controls. Usually there is a utility bus that feeds power to rows
of proper size breakers as well as the avionics master. The Utility of
course is fed from a master relay located at the battery, controlled by a red
handled rocker switch located around the starter switches. Lighting
circuits etc are fed off the utility bus through appreciate sized breakers as
well as the starter relay. Fuel gages can come off either, however it is
easier to have them activated with the utility bus, that way you don't have to
flip more breakers and switches to read your tanks. "Nothing should go to
a device without first going through a fuse of some sort. Like I said I
used the little pop-out fuses and wound up with about 10 of them. Use the
regular switches for controlling landing lights, cabin lights, pitot hear
etc. that don't have their own built in switch controls.
Hope this makes sense,
Jesse
Message 4
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Yep, makes a lot of sense and is exactly what I had in mind to do.
Thanks.
Al
On Nov 1, 2009, at 6:59 PM, Flyinisfun@aol.com wrote:
> I've been watching your communication and thought I would add a
> thought or two. You might consider putting in one switch handle
> type breaker that feeds what you would think of as a avionics bus.
> In this case you can kill all radios with one switch handle.
> Course if you do this kind of breakdown you would feed from the
> master breaker for the avionics to smaller size breakers to feed
> the com radio, transponder, auto pilot or any units that you want
> off when you crank the engine. Once the engine starts all you have
> to do is move one breaker handle and power is fed to all these
> units. Also in that case you would go from each breaker directly
> to the item without a switch of any sort in between. The switch on
> the device will be available if you need to shut that particular
> unit off. I have a transponder that has a recommendation to be
> fused at 4 amps. The com is recommended to be fused at 3 amps,
> etc. You can line up three or four rows of pop out fuses on the
> upper right panel area and feed them for what ever use from master
> switched breakers located in the lower area of the panel just to
> the right of the engine controls. Usually there is a utility bus
> that feeds power to rows of proper size breakers as well as the
> avionics master. The Utility of course is fed from a master relay
> located at the battery, controlled by a red handled rocker switch
> located around the starter switches. Lighting circuits etc are fed
> off the utility bus through appreciate sized breakers as well as
> the starter relay. Fuel gages can come off either, however it is
> easier to have them activated with the utility bus, that way you
> don't have to flip more breakers and switches to read your tanks.
> "Nothing should go to a device without first going through a fuse
> of some sort. Like I said I used the little pop-out fuses and
> wound up with about 10 of them. Use the regular switches for
> controlling landing lights, cabin lights, pitot hear etc. that
> don't have their own built in switch controls.
>
> Hope this makes sense,
> Jesse
Message 5
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If you go with fuses, look into the ones that light up when they blow. These
have a small LED built in so it makes it very easy to see and change a blown
fuse. I have these in my airplane and they work great. I had one fuse blow
in flight, still can't figure out why, and I knew immediately which one it
was.
There are several places to buy them but I used:
http://order.waytekwire.com/products2/M37/140/350/100/1/ATO/ATC%20Fuses-Light%20When%20Blown/Blade%20Fuses%20And%20Accessories/Circuit%20Protection/
Galin
N819PR
On Sun, Nov 1, 2009 at 5:59 PM, <Flyinisfun@aol.com> wrote:
> I've been watching your communication and thought I would add a thought
> or two. You might consider putting in one switch handle type breaker that
> feeds what you would think of as a avionics bus. In this case you can kill
> all radios with one switch handle. Course if you do this kind of breakdown
> you would feed from the master breaker for the avionics to smaller size
> breakers to feed the com radio, transponder, auto pilot or any units that
> you want off when you crank the engine. Once the engine starts all you have
> to do is move one breaker handle and power is fed to all these units. Also
> in that case you would go from each breaker directly to the item without a
> switch of any sort in between. The switch on the device will be available
> if you need to shut that particular unit off. I have a transponder that has
> a recommendation to be fused at 4 amps. The com is recommended to be fused
> at 3 amps, etc. You can line up three or four rows of pop out fuses on the
> upper right panel area and feed them for what ever use from master switched
> breakers located in the lower area of the panel just to the right of the
> engine controls. Usually there is a utility bus that feeds power to rows of
> proper size breakers as well as the avionics master. The Utility of course
> is fed from a master relay located at the battery, controlled by a red
> handled rocker switch located around the starter switches. Lighting
> circuits etc are fed off the utility bus through appreciate sized breakers
> as well as the starter relay. Fuel gages can come off either, however it is
> easier to have them activated with the utility bus, that way you don't have
> to flip more breakers and switches to read your tanks. "Nothing should go
> to a device without first going through a fuse of some sort. Like I said I
> used the little pop-out fuses and wound up with about 10 of them. Use the
> regular switches for controlling landing lights, cabin lights, pitot hear
> etc. that don't have their own built in switch controls.
>
> Hope this makes sense,
> Jesse
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 6
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On Nov 1, 2009, at 8:12 PM, Galin Hernandez wrote:
> If you go with fuses, look into the ones that light up when they
> blow. These have a small LED built in so it makes it very easy to
> see and change a blown fuse. I have these in my airplane and they
> work great. I had one fuse blow in flight, still can't figure out
> why, and I knew immediately which one it was.
>
> There are several places to buy them but I used:
>
> http://order.waytekwire.com/products2/M37/140/350/100/1/ATO/ATC%
> 20Fuses-Light%20When%20Blown/Blade%20Fuses%20And%20Accessories/
> Circuit%20Protection/
>
> Galin
> N
Several years ago I bought the little pop-out breakers (didn't have
lighted ones then). If the new ones fit the same holes I may go that
way. Also bought Honeywell rocker switches (very expensive) and had
Aircraft Engravers engrave custom lettering (TAXI LIGHTS, ETC.).
Above each rocker switch on my panel I installed a tiny green LED
that comes on when the switch is passing current. Also the switches
are lighted when the panel lights are on.
Al
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