Today's Message Index:
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1. 06:35 AM - D subminiature connectors ()
2. 03:24 PM - TR1 NG Leg/OC?OC ()
3. 05:00 PM - Re: TR1 NG Leg/OC?OC (Flyinisfun@aol.com)
4. 05:53 PM - Re: D subminiature connectors (Mark Kettering)
5. 07:31 PM - Re: TR1 NG Leg/OC?OC ()
Message 1
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Subject: | D subminiature connectors |
5/29/2010
Hello Fellow Builders, Here is what we are writing about:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D-subminiature
Bob Nuckolls writes: "It's a fact that the majority of d-sub connectors come
with short, slotted-head 4-40 jack screws that are EXCEEDINGLY difficult to
work with in confined spaces traversed by wire bundles." ..and ... "the
inconvenience of stock, slot-head jack-screws."
{RESPONSE} He offers a screw handling solution here:
http://tinyurl.com/34nrdd5
I'd like to offer another solution -- use #4-40 machine screws with hex
socket (Allen wrench) drive heads. The hex socket drive head allows one to
manuever the small screws in a manner vastly superior to a straight slot or
phillips drive head screw.
See here for a source of such screws:
http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/products/SSC.cfm
Here is just one source of tools for handling these screws:
http://www.bondhus.com/
Conventional Allen wrenches work fine for most handling of these screws, but
these Prohold tools will give even more control if needed:
http://www.bondhus.com/features/prohold/body-0.htm
'OC' Baker Says: "The best investment we can make is the time and effort to
gather and understand knowledge."
PS: An aerospace vehicle with hex socket or Torx / six lobe / star drive
fasteners is much easier to work on than a vehicle with straight slot or
Phillips drive fasteners. See here for some handy tool kits to work with the
hex socket or Torx / six lobe / star drive fasteners:
http://www.chapmanmfg.com/
=======================================================
Time: 10:28:24 AM PST US
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob@aeroelectric.com>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Gauge wiring best practice
I would like to make the panel easily disconnectable, and I'm going to
be using something like Tyco AMP MATE-N-LOK connectors for connecting
other things to the panel. (These are multi-way locking connectors,
with crimped pins, supporting various wire gauges -- 10-30AWG at
least).
Keep in mind that every connector interface adds three new
joints to every wire. Running lots of electro-goodies through a
single connector adds a single point of failure for all
those electro-goodies........
BIG SKIP
Probably no functional differences. However, it's
been my observation over the years that spending a lot
of time adding complexity for some perceived future
convenience has a poor return on investment. Suggest
you 'enhance' the stock jack-screws and wire each
instrument as a stand-alone system while minimizing
features shared with other systems.
Bob . . .
Message 2
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Subject: | TR1 NG Leg/OC?OC |
OC and others
L think its time to talk about cutting off the lower part of the original
skinny nose gear leg and splicing on a lower part of a RV or Grumman nose
wheel including the wheel assembly.These are larger diameter legs and have
proven wheel adjustment parts.[I remember what OC went through to develop
his Teflon washer design].
L will sign off and watch the site light up/off.
Ted
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: TR1 NG Leg/OC?OC |
Hi Ted,
I exchanged my nose gear by having it reworked by Lyle Hendricks. I have
banged it hard and have had no problems with it. No I don't have a lot of
hrs. on it but have the teflon washer in the swivel of the gear and have
had no shimmy. The nose gear design needs some attention as I have just done
my annual and the permanent bearing were rough, so I replaced them. They
need a spacer between them so the shaft can be tightened down and lock us
the inter race. I don't think the bearings were designed to have a side
load of any extent applied to them, so they suffer. If you should go with
Lyle's design have him cut you a spacer and have him install it. This leaves
a troubling question though, how do you press the old bearing out in order
to replace them. The spacer would need a slot cut in it so one could
insert a cross, flat bar to remove the bearings.
Things are developing with me and I'm learning how to make good landings
with the plane. I am doing better by putting about 1/4" up elevator trim
tab, which takes away the null spot and it gives me a feel of what is going
on. Easier to make fine adjustments in the slot before touchdown.
Jesse Wright
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: D subminiature connectors |
>BIG SKIP
>
>
> Probably no functional differences. However, it's
> been my observation over the years that spending a lot
> of time adding complexity for some perceived future
> convenience has a poor return on investment. Suggest
> you 'enhance' the stock jack-screws and wire each
> instrument as a stand-alone system while minimizing
> features shared with other systems.
>
> Bob . . .
I can not agree more! But I do like to make sure I have an extra loop of wires
at the end so that I can pull things out with the wires still attached. Loop
the wires and then use a wire tie to make them neat and to hold them in place
without adding stress to the connector. I have never had problems with wires
being too long but have had problems with wires being too short.
Mark
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: TR1 NG Leg/OC?OC |
5/30/2010
Hello Ted, You wrote:
1) "L think its time to talk about cutting off the lower part of the
original skinny nose gear leg and splicing on a lower part of a RV or
Grumman nose wheel including the wheel assembly."
{Response} What sort of problems are you having that causes you to make this
suggestion at this time? Your suggestion implies that the skinny spring
steel strut is OK, but that the lower end is causing problems.
2) "These are larger diameter legs and have proven wheel adjustment parts."
{Response} I never had one of the skinny spring steel nose landing gear
strut / assemblies so I am not familiar with its lower end. Both the
streamlined shaped strut that I received initially and the subsequent round
strut that Lyle Hendricks made for me had a 3/4 inch diameter (if I remember
right) vertical stub at the bottom end.
Are you suggesting that the RVs and Grummans (how about the Cirruses?) have
a larger diameter vertical stub and that we should go in that direction in
order to use the remainder of the lower end assembly that those aircraft
have?
3) "[I remember what OC went through to develop his Teflon washer design]."
{Response} I replaced the Belleville washers in my nose landing gear
vertical stub stack up with nylon washers. They have given me excellent
service. I have no nose wheel shimmy problems. The friction is pretty tight
and it takes a good stab at the brake pedal to change direction of taxi.
I don't know where one could buy standard sized Teflon washers ready made in
small quantities. Do you know of such a source?
3) "L will sign off and watch the site light up/off."
I too look forward to the thoughts and comments of other KIS builders on
this issue. Lyle, do you have any thoughts on Ted's suggestion?
Thanks,
'OC' Baker Says: "The best investment we can make is the time and effort to
gather and understand knowledge."
===========================================
----- Original Message -----
From: <tmclam@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2010 6:19 PM
Subject: KIS-List: TR1 NG Leg/OC?OC
>
>
> OC and others
> L think its time to talk about cutting off the lower part of the original
> skinny nose gear leg and splicing on a lower part of a RV or Grumman nose
> wheel including the wheel assembly.These are larger diameter legs and have
> proven wheel adjustment parts.[I remember what OC went through to develop
> his Teflon washer design].
> L will sign off and watch the site light up/off.
> Ted
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