Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:36 AM - Re: KIS TR-1 Propeller - attachment ()
2. 07:54 AM - Re: KIS TR-1 Propeller (BlueSkyFlier)
3. 09:14 AM - Re: Re: PORT SIDE FAIRING (kent pyle)
4. 06:54 PM - Re: Bottom wing root covers (BlueSkyFlier)
5. 11:05 PM - Re: Re: PORT SIDE FAIRING (Scott Stearns)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: KIS TR-1 Propeller - attachment |
3/6/2011
Hello Alfred, I also sent the below copied email to myself and noticed that
some of the words on the attachment previously sent to you and the KIS list
did not come through the scan process.
Here are the missing words:
Across the top of the document:
Line one: "IO-240-B Model Specification"
Line two: "FULL THROTTLE/PROPELLER LOAD CURVE"
Line three: "IO-240-B
Across the bottom of the document:
Line one: "ENGINE SPEED (rpm)"
Line two: "TELEDYNE CONTINENTAL MOTORS" "3/30/95 CURVE NO. 95-005"
I hope that this helps.
'OC' Baker Says: "The best investment we can make is the time and effort to
gather and understand knowledge."
PS: I note that the attachment was created with magneto timing set at 22
degrees BTDC (Before Top Dead Center). The engine specification document
calls for magneto timing on the IO-240-B to be set at 26 degrees BTDC.
==========================================
From: <bakerocb@cox.net>
<bleuskyfly@teledynamix.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2011 8:02 AM
Subject: KIS TR-1 Propeller
> 3/6/2011
>
> Hello Alfred, Will the attached document help? Please let me know if the
> attachment in MS Word (.rtf) is not compatible and we'll try some other
> format.
>
> 'OC' Baker Says: "The best investment we can make is the time and effort
> to
> gather and understand knowledge."
>
> =====================================================
>
> Time: 10:20:51 AM PST US
> Subject: KIS-List: Re: KIS TR-1 Propeller
> From: "BlueSkyFlier" <bleuskyfly@teledynamix.com>
>
>
> Gents,
>
> In late January I created a performance model for the KIS to aid my
> decision
> regarding
> a new propeller. Having consulted with Mark Ketttering off line I am now
> satisfied that the model is realistic.
>
> Attached a view of the results for a particular point on the flight
> envelope.
>
> There is one big caveat though and I hope the forum can help with that: I
> need
> a power curve for a O-240 or IO-240 engine to ensure that the engine power
> model
> is accurate.
>
> I can only hope that someone on the forum has access to such information.
>
> Anyways, take a look at the results. It seemed to work well enough for my
> plane
> (when it was still flying :? )
>
> Regards,
> Alfred
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: KIS TR-1 Propeller |
Ok, cancel that question about O-240 engine power curve. I hauled out the Rolls
Royce overhaul manual for my engine and found a curve for the friction horse
power (up to 22 hp at 2800 rpm). The manual makes it clear that friction horsepower
is already discounted when in the rated b.h.p. figure of 130 hp at 2800
rpm.
So I simply matched a polynomial curve to the friction horse power curve and scaled
it to 130 hp. Voila!
Result attached if you are interested. Scaled to suit rated hp, this curve would
be quite accurate for the entire O-240 engine family.
Regards,
Alfred
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=332895#332895
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: PORT SIDE FAIRING |
Scott, mine still fits very well. Kent
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Stearns
To: kis-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2011 9:32 PM
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Re: PORT SIDE FAIRING
It seems to me it wouldn't fit well at the leading edge, but
maybe your fairings are different than mine.
You can just make a layup on a flat table and make it work as
long as you don't have to go around the leading edge very far, but I
think with a little more effort you can make a part that matches the
curve of the wing.
Scott
--- On Sat, 3/5/11, kent pyle <kentpyle@iland.net> wrote:
From: kent pyle <kentpyle@iland.net>
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Re: PORT SIDE FAIRING
To: kis-list@matronics.com
Date: Saturday, March 5, 2011, 6:03 PM
Scott, it madea very good quality part!! Kent
----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Stearns
To: kis-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2011 7:30 PM
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Re: PORT SIDE FAIRING
I think the best way to make the lower wing fairings
is to get the airfoil coordinates off the web and cut two templates and
make a sandwich with a block of low density foam and use a long sanding
board to sand the foam to match the templates. I think you could make a
nice mold in an hour or less and it would be the correct shape.
I made my lower fairings and my wingtips by laying up
on the wing itself and I don't think using the top of the wing as a mold
would produce a good quality part.
I would try to avoid dropping the wing unless you have
to. There's a fair amount of risk of damaging things during the demate
procedure and it might be a real challenge getting it all lined up
again. You can jack the wing up under the spar and remove one bolt at a
time to inspect the bolts and bushings.
As for the engine... I assume you were running a wood
prop? A lot of people I know would just check the runout on the crank
and call it good after a low power prop strike with a wood prop.
Scott
--- On Sat, 3/5/11, BlueSkyFlier
<bleuskyfly@teledynamix.com> wrote:
From: BlueSkyFlier <bleuskyfly@teledynamix.com>
Subject: KIS-List: Re: PORT SIDE FAIRING
To: kis-list@matronics.com
Date: Saturday, March 5, 2011, 10:59 AM
<bleuskyfly@teledynamix.com>
Much obliged for the sage advice Rich.
Since the front part of the port upper fairing is
also somewhat damaged that makes a lot of sense. Together with Tim's
idea of using thin plate below the wing I think this repair issue is now
resolved.
I'll get a professional to handle the wingtip, dent
on topside of the wing and the tail fin.
The rest is easy enough if I can source a stock
3/16" windscreen from the guys in Los Alamitos who apparently have the
mold.
Regards,
Alfred
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| Subject: | Re: Bottom wing root covers |
Thank you for the photos Tim. Appears to me that any paintable flexible material
will do the job.
The port rear wing root cover (Part # KL10) also needs quite a bit of mending,
but that is fortunately not structural.
Regards,
Alfred
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| Subject: | Re: PORT SIDE FAIRING |
Did some reading about prop strikes.- The engine shop websites all say th
ere is no way to know what might be wrong in the engine without tearing it
down, but with a wood prop the chances of anything being damaged are less.
-
One specific area on Continental engines to look at seems to be the gearing
to the alternator.-
-
Very curious to hear what they find (or hopefully don't find) during the te
ardown.
-
Scott
--- On Sat, 3/5/11, Scott Stearns <sstearns2@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: Scott Stearns <sstearns2@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Re: PORT SIDE FAIRING
I think the best way to make the lower wing fairings is to get the airfoil
coordinates off the web and cut two templates and-make a sandwich with a
-block of low density foam and use a long sanding board to sand the foam
to-match the templates.- I think you could make a nice mold in an hour
or less and it would be the correct shape.
-
I made my lower fairings and my wingtips by laying up on the wing itself an
d I don't think using the top of the wing as a mold would produce a good qu
ality part.
-
I would try to avoid dropping the wing unless you have to.- There's a fai
r amount of risk of damaging things during-the demate procedure-and it
might be a real challenge getting it all lined up again.- You can jack th
e wing up under the spar and remove one bolt at a time to inspect the bolts
and bushings.-
-
As for the engine... I assume you were running a wood prop?- A lot of peo
ple I know-would just check the runout on the crank and call it good afte
r a low power prop strike with a wood prop.-
-
Scott
-
--- On Sat, 3/5/11, BlueSkyFlier <bleuskyfly@teledynamix.com> wrote:
From: BlueSkyFlier <bleuskyfly@teledynamix.com>
Subject: KIS-List: Re: PORT SIDE FAIRING
Much obliged for the sage advice Rich.
Since the front part of the port upper fairing is also somewhat damaged tha
t makes a lot of sense. Together with Tim's idea of using thin plate below
the wing I think this repair issue is now resolved.
I'll get a professional to handle the wingtip, dent on topside of the wing
and the tail fin.
The rest is easy enough if I can source a stock 3/16" windscreen from the g
uys in Los Alamitos who apparently have the mold.
Regards,
- - - - - - Alfred
--------
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