Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:34 AM - Re: Door hinge ()
2. 07:23 AM - Re: Door hinge (Scott Stearns)
3. 07:34 AM - Re: Door hinge (Bill Schertz)
4. 10:27 AM - Re: Door hinge (ALFRED ROSA)
5. 11:04 AM - Re: Door hinge (Scott Stearns)
6. 11:35 AM - Re: alfred (Richard Trickel)
7. 11:54 AM - Re: Door hinge (Richard Trickel)
8. 12:07 PM - Re: Re: Longtudinal Stability of KIS TR-1 (Richard Trickel)
Message 1
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4/18/2011
Hello Alfred, You wrote:
1) ".... my head almost reaches the ceiling. The last thing I need are
bolts or nuts protruding down from the cockpit ceiling."
Yes, the seat-to-head ceiling clearance in my KIS TR-1 is also very
marginal and the top band of the headset sticking up aggravates the
problem. It turns out though that the location of the inside nuts on the
screws holding the fuselage end of the hinges is such that they are very
rarely a factor in head contact.
2) ".... put the nuts on the outside and bury them with micro flox...?
That should work provided that the nuts don't stick up so far that they
make a bump on the fuselage finish. Also consider that someday someone
may want to remove the fuselage end of the hinges by unscrewing the
machine screws holding them in place.
'OC' Baker Says: "The best investment we can make is the time and effort
to gather and understand knowledge."
========
----- Original Message -----
From: ALFRED ROSA
To: bakerocb@cox.net
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2011 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Door hinge
On Sun, Apr 17, 2011 at 5:35 PM, <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote:
4/17/2011
The inside ceiling end of the screws are fastened with nylon insert
stop nuts and the extended screw ends cut and filed off to avoid banging
into the heads of occupants.
With my Mazda Miata seats my head almost reaches the ceiling. The
last thing I need are bolts or nuts protruding down from the cockpit
ceiling.
I might use 10/32 flat head machine screws with tinnerman washers on
the inside and put the nuts on the outside and bury them with micro
flox.
Al
Message 2
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You can also use shear nuts which-are half the thickness of standard nuts
.- That's what I used.-
-
I also sandwiched the hinge between two peices of 1/16" phenolic and bonded
it into the fuselage.- Than you can pull off the door and have a slot to
slip the hinges into.- I drilled down through the sandwich with the door
exactly where I wanted it and used countersunk-bolts and thin nuts on th
e inside.
-
Scott
--- On Mon, 4/18/11, bakerocb@cox.net <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote:
From: bakerocb@cox.net <bakerocb@cox.net>
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Door hinge
a@gmail.com>
4/18/2011
-
Hello Alfred, You wrote:
-
1) "....--my head almost reaches the ceiling. The last thing I need are
bolts or nuts protruding down from the cockpit ceiling."
-
Yes, the seat-to-head ceiling clearance-in my KIS TR-1 is also very margi
nal and the top band of the headset sticking up aggravates the problem. It
turns out though that the location of the inside nuts on the screws holding
the fuselage-end of the hinges is such that they are very rarely a facto
r in head contact.
-
2) ".... put the nuts on the outside and bury them with micro flox...?
-
That should work provided that the nuts don't stick up so far that they mak
e a bump on the fuselage finish. Also consider that someday someone may wan
t to remove the fuselage end of the hinges by unscrewing the machine screws
holding them in place.
-
'OC' Baker Says: "The best investment we can make is the time and effort to
gather and understand knowledge."
-
========
----- Original Message -----
From: ALFRED ROSA
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2011 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Door hinge
On Sun, Apr 17, 2011 at 5:35 PM, <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote:
4/17/2011
The inside-ceiling end of the screws are fastened with nylon insert stop
nuts and the extended screw ends cut and filed off to avoid banging into th
e heads of occupants.
With my Mazda Miata seats my head almost reaches the ceiling. -The last t
hing I need are bolts or nuts protruding down from the cockpit ceiling.
I might use 10/32 flat head machine screws with tinnerman washers on the in
side and put the nuts on the outside and bury them with micro flox.
Al
Message 3
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You need to bolt them in place. You have to make sure they are aligned
with one another so that they don=99t bind when the door swings. I
did this using a piece of wood to represent the door, and aligned the
hinges and then drilled the fuselage top to match holes in the hinges
Bill Schertz
KIS Cruiser #4045
N343BS
Phase one testing Completed
From: ALFRED ROSA
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2011 12:31 PM
Subject: KIS-List: Door hinge
The manuel doesn't give directions for attaching the aluminum hinges to
the fuselage top and only instructions for attaching to the doors.
Are they to be bonded using micro flox only?
Al
Message 4
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I think I'll make access covers to the hinges to be able to get at the nuts.
4 countersunk 8/32 screws could hold the access covers to the fuselage top.
Moulding fiberglass to the exact contour would be easy using the fuselage
top as a mold. It sounds like a plan.
Al
On Mon, Apr 18, 2011 at 10:21 AM, Scott Stearns <sstearns2@yahoo.com> wrote:
> You can also use shear nuts which are half the thickness of standard nuts.
> That's what I used.
>
> I also sandwiched the hinge between two peices of 1/16" phenolic and bonded
> it into the fuselage. Than you can pull off the door and have a slot to
> slip the hinges into. I drilled down through the sandwich with the door
> exactly where I wanted it and used countersunk bolts and thin nuts on the
> inside.
>
> Scott
>
> --- On *Mon, 4/18/11, bakerocb@cox.net <bakerocb@cox.net>* wrote:
>
>
> From: bakerocb@cox.net <bakerocb@cox.net>
> Subject: Re: KIS-List: Door hinge
> To: "KIS-LIST, MATRONICS" <kis-list@matronics.com>, "ALFRED ROSA" <
> fredorosa@gmail.com>
> Date: Monday, April 18, 2011, 4:27 AM
>
> 4/18/2011
>
> Hello Alfred, You wrote:
>
> 1) ".... my head almost reaches the ceiling. The last thing I need are
> bolts or nuts protruding down from the cockpit ceiling."
>
> Yes, the seat-to-head ceiling clearance in my KIS TR-1 is also very
> marginal and the top band of the headset sticking up aggravates the problem.
> It turns out though that the location of the inside nuts on the screws
> holding the fuselage end of the hinges is such that they are very rarely a
> factor in head contact.
>
> 2) ".... put the nuts on the outside and bury them with micro flox...?
>
> That should work provided that the nuts don't stick up so far that they
> make a bump on the fuselage finish. Also consider that someday someone may
> want to remove the fuselage end of the hinges by unscrewing the machine
> screws holding them in place.
>
> 'OC' Baker Says: "The best investment we can make is the time and effort to
> gather and understand knowledge."
>
> =================================
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* ALFRED ROSA<http://us.mc324.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=fredorosa@gmail.com>
> *To:* bakerocb@cox.net<http://us.mc324.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=bakerocb@cox.net>
> *Sent:* Sunday, April 17, 2011 7:08 PM
> *Subject:* Re: KIS-List: Door hinge
>
>
> On Sun, Apr 17, 2011 at 5:35 PM, <bakerocb@cox.net<http://us.mc324.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=bakerocb@cox.net>
> > wrote:
>
> 4/17/2011
> The inside ceiling end of the screws are fastened with nylon insert stop
> nuts and the extended screw ends cut and filed off to avoid banging into the
> heads of occupants.
>
>
> With my Mazda Miata seats my head almost reaches the ceiling. The last
> thing I need are bolts or nuts protruding down from the cockpit ceiling.
> I might use 10/32 flat head machine screws with tinnerman washers on the
> inside and put the nuts on the outside and bury them with micro flox.
>
> Al
>
> *
>
> =nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-List
> et=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com
> llow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 5
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I would sit in the airplane and see if you head actually comes close fasten
ers.- I thought it would be a problem in my airplane, but I've never had
a problem.- The thin nuts with a thin washer are less than 1/4 inch thick
.
-
Scott
--- On Mon, 4/18/11, ALFRED ROSA <fredorosa@gmail.com> wrote:
From: ALFRED ROSA <fredorosa@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Door hinge
I think I'll make access covers to the hinges to be able to get at the nuts
. -4 countersunk 8/32 screws could hold the access covers to the fuselage
top.
Moulding fiberglass to the exact contour would be easy using the fuselage t
op as a mold. -It sounds like a plan.
Al
On Mon, Apr 18, 2011 at 10:21 AM, Scott Stearns <sstearns2@yahoo.com> wrote
:
You can also use shear nuts which-are half the thickness of standard nuts
.- That's what I used.-
-
I also sandwiched the hinge between two peices of 1/16" phenolic and bonded
it into the fuselage.- Than you can pull off the door and have a slot to
slip the hinges into.- I drilled down through the sandwich with the door
exactly where I wanted it and used countersunk-bolts and thin nuts on th
e inside.
-
Scott
--- On Mon, 4/18/11, bakerocb@cox.net <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote:
From: bakerocb@cox.net <bakerocb@cox.net>
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Door hinge
a@gmail.com>
4/18/2011
-
Hello Alfred, You wrote:
-
1) "....--my head almost reaches the ceiling. The last thing I need are
bolts or nuts protruding down from the cockpit ceiling."
-
Yes, the seat-to-head ceiling clearance-in my KIS TR-1 is also very margi
nal and the top band of the headset sticking up aggravates the problem. It
turns out though that the location of the inside nuts on the screws holding
the fuselage-end of the hinges is such that they are very rarely a facto
r in head contact.
-
2) ".... put the nuts on the outside and bury them with micro flox...?
-
That should work provided that the nuts don't stick up so far that they mak
e a bump on the fuselage finish. Also consider that someday someone may wan
t to remove the fuselage end of the hinges by unscrewing the machine screws
holding them in place.
-
'OC' Baker Says: "The best investment we can make is the time and effort to
gather and understand knowledge."
-
========
----- Original Message -----
From: ALFRED ROSA
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2011 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Door hinge
On Sun, Apr 17, 2011 at 5:35 PM, <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote:
4/17/2011
The inside-ceiling end of the screws are fastened with nylon insert stop
nuts and the extended screw ends cut and filed off to avoid banging into th
e heads of occupants.
With my Mazda Miata seats my head almost reaches the ceiling. -The last t
hing I need are bolts or nuts protruding down from the cockpit ceiling.
I might use 10/32 flat head machine screws with tinnerman washers on the in
side and put the nuts on the outside and bury them with micro flox.
Al
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et=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com
llow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 6
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O.C has hit it pretty close about Pulsar.- As many of you know I had to l
eave there because they were way behind on paying me.- They still owe me
$45,000 in back pay and I doubt I will ever see it.- I have been a little
caucious about making statements regarding this company.- But what the h
ell. I wuld probably have starved to death there waiting for some honesty.
-
Pulsar did get to the point of making parts but only Plsar 100 parts were m
ade.- A total of three kits were made while I was there.- All three kit
s were paid for and as of several montths ago (around October) Only two of
the kits were sent out and they were not complete.- I do not know if the
rest of the parts were sent after I left in Jan. 2010.- No Kis parts were
built.- The aircraft that we assembled there had all been built in the U
.S. by me prior to the move to El Salvador.- This is also Another story.
- The pink TR-1 (Pulsar Sport150) was a kit that was purchased from a cus
tomer that never started building.- It was painted Pink to indicate it wa
s built by women even though it was not.- A few women did tinker on it th
ough.- They were mostly not paid staff.-- The Six palce plane was sta
rted by me in the U.S. for the person who took over my shop and hired me to
work there after selling Tri R Tech.- It was not ready to fly when I lef
t and
the pictures of the toilet and refrig are true.- It also had a Microwave
oven.- Never had the money to finish it up. and was tail heavy witgh all
the trinkets in the baggage bay area.-
There web site is fairly new and I do not know this person Alfred has talke
d to in the states.
When I left the top wing mold for the TR-1need to be replaced but all other
molds were there.- They do Have the tech info but whether they understan
d them is another question.- When I left the Oven was not operational but
only need a few simple things to make it work like GAS.
All I can say is good luck.- The Owner of the company is tops at putting
on a good show.- He will sell you anything cash up front.
Rich
--- On Sun, 4/17/11, bakerocb@cox.net <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote:
From: bakerocb@cox.net <bakerocb@cox.net>
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Re: TR-1 Spar Repair Choice
4/17/2011
Hello Alfred, You wrote:
1) "It is clear that Pulsar is bluffing with the SP100 then - now that make
s me wonder ..."
I don't understand what you meant by "...Pulsar is bluffing with the SP100.
..". Their whole El Salvador operation may be considered a bluff when it co
mes to seriously producing and selling composite airplane kits.
Here is my take on the Pulsar in El Salvador situation.
A) When Rich Trickel left, 95 percent of their corporate memory and composi
te technical capability left with him.
B) I don't think that Pulsar has actually produced and sold any complete ki
ts since the move to El Salvador. That's kits to be built by procuring cust
omers, not in factory prototypes or "one off" articles.
C) Pulsar existed as a build for speculation / custom order shop in El Salv
ador and produced one or two completed airplanes for sale.
D) Pulsar in El Salvador is making some attempt at building / selling only
three airplanes or airplane kits. A two seater, a four seater, and a six se
ater. Here is a quote from their Our Mission statement: "Today the group su
pplies 3 types of aircrafts with capacity for two, four and six persons."
E) The airplane designated as the SP (Super Pulsar) 100 is the two place ai
rplane offering in their stable. You can recognize it in the pictures as th
e one with the one piece canopy and windshield. The SP 100 is a derivative
of the original Pulsar line of aircraft developed years ago in Texas by Mar
k Brown. Its construction method is distinctively different than the constr
uction method used by Rich Trickel doing business as Tri-R Technologies.
F) When Pulsar bought out (took over) Tri-R Technologies and moved to El Sa
lvador they did not vigorously promote the KIS TR-1 / Pulsar Sport 150. I a
m not sure if even one such kit / airplane was made from scratch there --
- possibly the pink one that appears in some photographs on the Pulsar we
b site may have been made there, but with many parts shipped from Californi
a.
2) ".... worth me spending any time pursuing a new wing from Pulsar?"
Getting major KIS TR-1 / Sport 150 composite parts from the people now left
at Pulsar in El Salvador is going to be a very dicey proposition.
OC
From: "BlueSkyFlier" <bleuskyfly@teledynamix.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2011 12:27 PM
Subject: KIS-List: Re: TR-1 Spar Repair Choice
m>
>
> Thanks Galin. That's why this forum is so great. There is always someone
who can separate the wheat from the chaf :o)
>
> It is clear that Pulsar is bluffing with the SP100 then - now that makes
me wonder ...
>
> Having been to the factory Galin -- do you think it is worth me spending
any time pursuing a new wing from Pulsar? Hard question I know, but lay it
out as you think fit - via private mail if you prefer.
>
> At least it could help me to ask the right questions when I speak to them
again. No names no pack drill of course.
>
> Regards,
>- - - - - - Alfred
>
> --------
> _________________________________________
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=337217#337217
le, List Admin.
Message 7
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Al
The hinge recess is deep enough that you could put the nuts on the top. (Sh
ort Screws)- I then covered the rest of the hing well-with a plate glue
with silicon after painting
--- On Mon, 4/18/11, Scott Stearns <sstearns2@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: Scott Stearns <sstearns2@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Door hinge
I would sit in the airplane and see if you head actually comes close fasten
ers.- I thought it would be a problem in my airplane, but I've never had
a problem.- The thin nuts with a thin washer are less than 1/4 inch thick
.
-
Scott
--- On Mon, 4/18/11, ALFRED ROSA <fredorosa@gmail.com> wrote:
From: ALFRED ROSA <fredorosa@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Door hinge
I think I'll make access covers to the hinges to be able to get at the nuts
. -4 countersunk 8/32 screws could hold the access covers to the fuselage
top.
Moulding fiberglass to the exact contour would be easy using the fuselage t
op as a mold. -It sounds like a plan.
Al
On Mon, Apr 18, 2011 at 10:21 AM, Scott Stearns <sstearns2@yahoo.com> wrote
:
You can also use shear nuts which-are half the thickness of standard nuts
.- That's what I used.-
-
I also sandwiched the hinge between two peices of 1/16" phenolic and bonded
it into the fuselage.- Than you can pull off the door and have a slot to
slip the hinges into.- I drilled down through the sandwich with the door
exactly where I wanted it and used countersunk-bolts and thin nuts on th
e inside.
-
Scott
--- On Mon, 4/18/11, bakerocb@cox.net <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote:
From: bakerocb@cox.net <bakerocb@cox.net>
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Door hinge
a@gmail.com>
4/18/2011
-
Hello Alfred, You wrote:
-
1) "....--my head almost reaches the ceiling. The last thing I need are
bolts or nuts protruding down from the cockpit ceiling."
-
Yes, the seat-to-head ceiling clearance-in my KIS TR-1 is also very margi
nal and the top band of the headset sticking up aggravates the problem. It
turns out though that the location of the inside nuts on the screws holding
the fuselage-end of the hinges is such that they are very rarely a facto
r in head contact.
-
2) ".... put the nuts on the outside and bury them with micro flox...?
-
That should work provided that the nuts don't stick up so far that they mak
e a bump on the fuselage finish. Also consider that someday someone may wan
t to remove the fuselage end of the hinges by unscrewing the machine screws
holding them in place.
-
'OC' Baker Says: "The best investment we can make is the time and effort to
gather and understand knowledge."
-
========
----- Original Message -----
From: ALFRED ROSA
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2011 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Door hinge
On Sun, Apr 17, 2011 at 5:35 PM, <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote:
4/17/2011
The inside-ceiling end of the screws are fastened with nylon insert stop
nuts and the extended screw ends cut and filed off to avoid banging into th
e heads of occupants.
With my Mazda Miata seats my head almost reaches the ceiling. -The last t
hing I need are bolts or nuts protruding down from the cockpit ceiling.
I might use 10/32 flat head machine screws with tinnerman washers on the in
side and put the nuts on the outside and bury them with micro flox.
Al
=nofollow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-List
et=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com
llow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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et=_blank>http://forums.matronics.com
llow target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Longtudinal Stability of KIS TR-1 |
The longitude stability on the plane is pretty good.- It was tested out b
y many pilots and satisfied FAA requirements in test by Dave Morse. (Test P
ilot) Actual technical information I don`t know.- That was a long time ag
o.--I always though the netural point of mac was the most aft CG locati
on some where around 31%.- But rember I am not an engineer.-- Scott/M
ark some help here.- The LAA (PFA) made a statement that the plane was no
t stable- based on what results.- This is the same outfit that would no
t license a Cruiser which has 4 seats.- It was only licensed as a two sea
ter. These are the experts there.- I paid a lot of money for extra docume
ntation for them for nothing.-
--- On Sun, 4/17/11, Scott Stearns <sstearns2@yahoo.com> wrote:
From: Scott Stearns <sstearns2@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Re: Longtudinal Stability of KIS TR-1
Martin Hollmann did the basic structural sizing.--Vance did some engine
ering and wrote the manuals.- Some of the metal-parts were copied from
the first generation lancairs as I remember.
-
My impression-is that-the aerodynamic design was basically doing what l
ooked right, which can be surprisingly effective-with a conventional airp
lane like we have.- -
-
Scott
--- On Sat, 4/16/11, Larry David <lgdavid@roadrunner.com> wrote:
From: Larry David <lgdavid@roadrunner.com>
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Re: Longtudinal Stability of KIS TR-1
I believe Vance Jaqua was involved.- Unfortunately, he passed away a
couple of years ago.- I can guarantee that if he were still alive, he
would have loved being involved in these discussions. Larry
On 4/16/2011 2:08 PM, BlueSkyFlier wrote:
> -->- KIS-List message posted by: "BlueSkyFlier"<bleuskyfly@teledynamix.
com>
>
> Does anyone know who originally did the aerodynamic design of the KIS air
frame?
>
> And how to get hold of him of course :o)
>
> Thanks,
>- - - - - ---Alfred
>
> --------
> _________________________________________
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=337149#337149
>
>
&g://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-List" sp;--> http://f=- - -
- - ---- List Contributionsp; - - - - - - - - -
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