Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:46 AM - Re: Nose Wheel Torque (Mike and Michele Patten)
2. 05:27 AM - Re: Nose Wheel Torque (Galin Hernandez)
3. 05:41 AM - Re: Nose Wheel Torque (ALFRED ROSA)
4. 06:04 AM - Roll pin (ALFRED ROSA)
5. 07:55 AM - Re: Nose Wheel Torque (F. Tim Yoder)
6. 10:56 AM - Re: Roll pin (Galin Hernandez)
7. 11:02 AM - Re: Nose Wheel Torque (Galin Hernandez)
8. 11:04 AM - Re: Nose Wheel Torque (Galin Hernandez)
9. 11:48 AM - Re: Nose Wheel Torque (F. Tim Yoder)
10. 12:28 PM - Re: Roll pin (Galin Hernandez)
11. 12:43 PM - Re: Roll pin (David Tate)
12. 06:23 PM - Re: Roll pin (Galin Hernandez)
Message 1
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Subject: | Nose Wheel Torque |
Galin,
I didn't realise the bolt on your aircraft was threaded into the nose leg.
On my aircraft the shaft which protrudes out of the leg is parallel on the
top section where it goes into the leg and is held into the leg by the roll
pin alone. The threaded section on the bottom is only about 1inch long and
supports the belville washers and castellated nut. I assumed this was the
upgraded gear, which replaced the original. The tension of the retaining nut
is not definitive, but a function of a load required to move the wheel at a
certain radius. Can't remember the load, but something like 10lbs at the
rear of the nose fork. Best to err on the high side otherwise it will
shimmy, which is not as obvious to the pilot as someone on the ground
observing. Hope this all makes sense.
Regards,
Mike.
From: owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Galin Hernandez
Sent: Monday, 9 July 2012 10:37 PM
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Nose Wheel Torque
Thanks Mike. I am going to make it so the pin extends completely from one
side to the other. It just seems logical to me. Also, how much torque do
you put on the bolt? I read to tighten it until it takes between 20-30 ft/lb
to move the nose gear but how do you measure this without special equipment?
I have a torque wrench so I can put a specific amount on the bolt.
Galin
On Mon, Jul 9, 2012 at 6:20 AM, Mike and Michele Patten
<mikepapa@bigpond.com> wrote:
Galin,
The nose gear bolt on my KIS TR1 which has 1200 hrs on it with this part
still intact has a roll pin which extends completely through from one side
to the other. In my opinion this would be best engineering practice, and
can't see any reason why you would do otherwise.
Regards,
Mike.
From: owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Galin Hernandez
Sent: Monday, 9 July 2012 1:57 PM
Subject: KIS-List: Nose Wheel Torque
Has anybody had problems while torquing the nose gear friction bolt? I
sheared the pin holding the bolt and had to get a new bolt machined. But it
doesn't seem logical that the pin holding the bolt doesn't go all the way
through to the other side. Does anybody know if there is a reason why the
pin doesn't go all the way through the nose gear or can I drill the nose
gear so the pin holds in two places not just one? Also, is that a special
pin or would any rolled steel pin work?
Galin
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Torque |
The bolt is threaded but there is no thread in the nose leg so it just
slides in and out. The roll pin is what holds it in the nose leg. The only
thing I can think is that instead of fabricating bolts for the nose gear
they just purchased a standard 3/4" threaded stud and drilled the
appropriate holes.
How do you measure 10lbs at the rear of the nose fork?
Galin
On Tue, Jul 10, 2012 at 6:45 AM, Mike and Michele Patten <
mikepapa@bigpond.com> wrote:
> Galin,****
>
> I didn=92t realise the bolt on your aircraft was threaded into the nose l
eg.
> On my aircraft the shaft which protrudes out of the leg is parallel on t
he
> top section where it goes into the leg and is held into the leg by the ro
ll
> pin alone. The threaded section on the bottom is only about 1inch long an
d
> supports the belville washers and castellated nut. I assumed this was the
> upgraded gear, which replaced the original. The tension of the retaining
> nut is not definitive, but a function of a load required to move the whee
l
> at a certain radius. Can=92t remember the load, but something like 10lbs
at
> the rear of the nose fork. Best to err on the high side otherwise it will
> shimmy, which is not as obvious to the pilot as someone on the ground
> observing. Hope this all makes sense.****
>
> ** **
>
> Regards,****
>
> Mike.****
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Galin Hernandez
> *Sent:* Monday, 9 July 2012 10:37 PM
> *To:* kis-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: KIS-List: Nose Wheel Torque****
>
> ** **
>
> Thanks Mike. I am going to make it so the pin extends completely from one
> side to the other. It just seems logical to me. Also, how much torque do
> you put on the bolt? I read to tighten it until it takes between 20-30
> ft/lb to move the nose gear but how do you measure this without special
> equipment? I have a torque wrench so I can put a specific amount on the
> bolt.
>
> Galin****
>
> On Mon, Jul 9, 2012 at 6:20 AM, Mike and Michele Patten <
> mikepapa@bigpond.com> wrote:****
>
> Galin,****
>
> The nose gear bolt on my KIS TR1 which has 1200 hrs on it with this part
> still intact has a roll pin which extends completely through from one sid
e
> to the other. In my opinion this would be best engineering practice, and
> can=92t see any reason why you would do otherwise.****
>
> ****
>
> Regards,****
>
> Mike.****
>
> ****
>
> *From:* owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Galin Hernandez
> *Sent:* Monday, 9 July 2012 1:57 PM
> *To:* kis-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* KIS-List: Nose Wheel Torque****
>
> ****
>
> Has anybody had problems while torquing the nose gear friction bolt? I
> sheared the pin holding the bolt and had to get a new bolt machined. But
it
> doesn't seem logical that the pin holding the bolt doesn't go all the way
> through to the other side. Does anybody know if there is a reason why the
> pin doesn't go all the way through the nose gear or can I drill the nose
> gear so the pin holds in two places not just one? Also, is that a special
> pin or would any rolled steel pin work?****
>
> ****
>
> Galin****
>
> * *****
>
> * *****
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-List*****
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*****
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*****
>
> * *****
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> *et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-List*
>
> *tp://forums.matronics.com*
>
> *_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> * *
>
> ** **
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Torque |
Galin,
The bolt on my TR-4 is about 6" long and seems to be threaded into the leg-
at least I don't see any roll pin holding the bolt. The bottom of the bolt
has a castellated nut against Belville washers.
Al
Message 4
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Galin,
This is a photo of my nose gear. The pin you see inserted in the front of
the leg is a "radius stop"
which hit the aluminum stop blocks and prevents the wheel from turning too
much to either side.
The pin is solid ss and threaded into the leg. I remember the original
instructions in the manual recommended
using a roll pin but many people had problems with it shearing off which is
why I beefed up mine.
Are you sure the roll pin in your leg is for holding the bolt? It might be
the pin originally meant for a radius stop.
Have you removed the bolt from the leg and saw it wasn't threaded?
Al[image: Inline image 2]
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Torque |
Galin,
I use a simple fish weight spring scale to set the torque on my TR-1. I
hook it on the yoke at the axel point and tighten the nut until It takes
30# of pull on the scale to move the yoke. The pounds required should be
in your manual.
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: Galin Hernandez
To: kis-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2012 5:26 AM
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Nose Wheel Torque
The bolt is threaded but there is no thread in the nose leg so it just
slides in and out. The roll pin is what holds it in the nose leg. The
only thing I can think is that instead of fabricating bolts for the nose
gear they just purchased a standard 3/4" threaded stud and drilled the
appropriate holes.
How do you measure 10lbs at the rear of the nose fork?
Galin
On Tue, Jul 10, 2012 at 6:45 AM, Mike and Michele Patten
<mikepapa@bigpond.com> wrote:
Galin,
I didn=92t realise the bolt on your aircraft was threaded into the
nose leg. On my aircraft the shaft which protrudes out of the leg is
parallel on the top section where it goes into the leg and is held into
the leg by the roll pin alone. The threaded section on the bottom is
only about 1inch long and supports the belville washers and castellated
nut. I assumed this was the upgraded gear, which replaced the original.
The tension of the retaining nut is not definitive, but a function of a
load required to move the wheel at a certain radius. Can=92t remember
the load, but something like 10lbs at the rear of the nose fork. Best to
err on the high side otherwise it will shimmy, which is not as obvious
to the pilot as someone on the ground observing. Hope this all makes
sense.
Regards,
Mike.
From: owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Galin
Hernandez
Sent: Monday, 9 July 2012 10:37 PM
To: kis-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Nose Wheel Torque
Thanks Mike. I am going to make it so the pin extends completely
from one side to the other. It just seems logical to me. Also, how much
torque do you put on the bolt? I read to tighten it until it takes
between 20-30 ft/lb to move the nose gear but how do you measure this
without special equipment? I have a torque wrench so I can put a
specific amount on the bolt.
Galin
On Mon, Jul 9, 2012 at 6:20 AM, Mike and Michele Patten
<mikepapa@bigpond.com> wrote:
Galin,
The nose gear bolt on my KIS TR1 which has 1200 hrs on it with this
part still intact has a roll pin which extends completely through from
one side to the other. In my opinion this would be best engineering
practice, and can=92t see any reason why you would do otherwise.
Regards,
Mike.
From: owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Galin
Hernandez
Sent: Monday, 9 July 2012 1:57 PM
To: kis-list@matronics.com
Subject: KIS-List: Nose Wheel Torque
Has anybody had problems while torquing the nose gear friction bolt?
I sheared the pin holding the bolt and had to get a new bolt machined.
But it doesn't seem logical that the pin holding the bolt doesn't go all
the way through to the other side. Does anybody know if there is a
reason why the pin doesn't go all the way through the nose gear or can I
drill the nose gear so the pin holds in two places not just one? Also,
is that a special pin or would any rolled steel pin work?
Galin
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comhtt
p://www.matronics.com/contribution
et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-Listtp://forums.matr
onics.com_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comhtt
p://www.matronics.com/contribution
et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 6
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|
Yes, I put a borescope up the nose leg and verified there are no threads
there. The pin used only holds the bolt from falling out the bottom. The
nose gear does not have a "radius stop" pin in the front. It doesn't even
have the bolt pin sticking out the front. As soon as I sheared the pin, the
bolt fell right out.
Galin
On Tuesday, July 10, 2012, ALFRED ROSA wrote:
> Galin,
>
> This is a photo of my nose gear. The pin you see inserted in the front of
> the leg is a "radius stop"
> which hit the aluminum stop blocks and prevents the wheel from turning too
> much to either side.
> The pin is solid ss and threaded into the leg. I remember the original
> instructions in the manual recommended
> using a roll pin but many people had problems with it shearing off which
> is why I beefed up mine.
> Are you sure the roll pin in your leg is for holding the bolt? It might
> be the pin originally meant for a radius stop.
> Have you removed the bolt from the leg and saw it wasn't threaded?
>
> Al[image: Inline image 2]
>
Message 7
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|
Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Torque |
Tim,
What do you mean you hook it on the yoke at the "axle point"?
Galin
On Tuesday, July 10, 2012, F. Tim Yoder wrote:
> **
> Galin,
>
> I use a simple fish weight spring scale to set the torque on my TR-1. I
> hook it on the yoke at the axel point and tighten the nut until It takes
> 30# of pull on the scale to move the yoke. The pounds required should be
in
> your manual.
>
> Tim
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Galin Hernandez
> *To:* kis-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 10, 2012 5:26 AM
> *Subject:* Re: KIS-List: Nose Wheel Torque
>
> The bolt is threaded but there is no thread in the nose leg so it just
> slides in and out. The roll pin is what holds it in the nose leg. The onl
y
> thing I can think is that instead of fabricating bolts for the nose gear
> they just purchased a standard 3/4" threaded stud and drilled the
> appropriate holes.
>
> How do you measure 10lbs at the rear of the nose fork?
>
> Galin
>
> On Tue, Jul 10, 2012 at 6:45 AM, Mike and Michele Patten <
> mikepapa@bigpond.com> wrote:
>
> Galin,****
>
> I didn=92t realise the bolt on your aircraft was threaded into the nose l
eg.
> On my aircraft the shaft which protrudes out of the leg is parallel on t
he
> top section where it goes into the leg and is held into the leg by the ro
ll
> pin alone. The threaded section on the bottom is only about 1inch long an
d
> supports the belville washers and castellated nut. I assumed this was the
> upgraded gear, which replaced the original. The tension of the retaining
> nut is not definitive, but a function of a load required to move the whee
l
> at a certain radius. Can=92t remember the load, but something like 10lbs
at
> the rear of the nose fork. Best to err on the high side otherwise it will
> shimmy, which is not as obvious to the pilot as someone on the ground
> observing. Hope this all makes sense.****
>
> ****
>
> Regards,****
>
> Mike.****
>
> ****
>
> *From:* owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Galin Hernandez
> *Sent:* Monday, 9 July 2012 10:37 PM
> *To:* kis-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: KIS-List: Nose Wheel Torque****
>
> ****
>
> Thanks Mike. I am going to make it so the pin extends completely from one
> side to the other. It just seems logical to me. Also, how much torque do
> you put on the bolt? I read to tighten it until it takes between 20-30
> ft/lb to move the nose gear but how do you measure this without special
> equipment? I have a torque wrench so I can put a specific amount on the
> bolt.
>
> Galin****
>
> On Mon, Jul 9, 2012 at 6:20 AM, Mike and Michele Patten <
> mikepapa@bigpond.com> wrote:****
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?KIS-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
*
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
Message 8
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|
Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Torque |
Tim,
Now that I re-read your e-mail it makes complete sense. "DUH"
I will check to see how much torque is needed to move the nose gear fork.
Galin
On Tuesday, July 10, 2012, Galin Hernandez wrote:
> Tim,
>
> What do you mean you hook it on the yoke at the "axle point"?
>
> Galin
>
> On Tuesday, July 10, 2012, F. Tim Yoder wrote:
>
>> **
>> Galin,
>>
>> I use a simple fish weight spring scale to set the torque on my TR-1. I
>> hook it on the yoke at the axel point and tighten the nut until It takes
>> 30# of pull on the scale to move the yoke. The pounds required should be
in
>> your manual.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> *From:* Galin Hernandez
>> *To:* kis-list@matronics.com
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 10, 2012 5:26 AM
>> *Subject:* Re: KIS-List: Nose Wheel Torque
>>
>> The bolt is threaded but there is no thread in the nose leg so it just
>> slides in and out. The roll pin is what holds it in the nose leg. The on
ly
>> thing I can think is that instead of fabricating bolts for the nose gear
>> they just purchased a standard 3/4" threaded stud and drilled the
>> appropriate holes.
>>
>> How do you measure 10lbs at the rear of the nose fork?
>>
>> Galin
>>
>> On Tue, Jul 10, 2012 at 6:45 AM, Mike and Michele Patten <
>> mikepapa@bigpond.com> wrote:
>>
>> Galin,****
>>
>> I didn=92t realise the bolt on your aircraft was threaded into the nose
>> leg. On my aircraft the shaft which protrudes out of the leg is paralle
l
>> on the top section where it goes into the leg and is held into the leg b
y
>> the roll pin alone. The threaded section on the bottom is only about 1in
ch
>> long and supports the belville washers and castellated nut. I assumed th
is
>> was the upgraded gear, which replaced the original. The tension of the
>> retaining nut is not definitive, but a function of a load required to mo
ve
>> the wheel at a certain radius. Can=92t remember the load, but something
like
>> 10lbs at the rear of the nose fork. Best to err on the high side otherwi
se
>> it will shimmy, which is not as obvious to the pilot as someone on the
>> ground observing. Hope this all makes sense.****
>>
>> ****
>>
>> Regards,****
>>
>> Mike.****
>>
>> ****
>>
>> *From:* owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
>> owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Galin Hernandez
>> *Sent:* Monday, 9 July 2012 10:37 PM
>> *To:* kis-list@matronics.com
>> *Subject:* Re: KIS-List: Nose Wheel Torque****
>>
>> ****
>>
>> Thanks Mike. I am going to make it so the pin extends completely from on
e
>> side to the other. It just seems logical to me. Also, how much torque d
o
>> you put on the bolt? I read to tighten it until it takes between 20-30
>> ft/lb to move the nose gear but how do you measure this without special
>> equipment? I have a torque wrench so I can put a specific amount on the
>> bolt.
>>
>> Galin****
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 9, 2012 at 6:20 AM, Mike and Michele Patten <
>> mikepapa@bigpond.com> wrote:****
>>
>> *
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?KIS-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/
c*
>>
>> *
>>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>> *
>>
>>
Message 9
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|
Subject: | Re: Nose Wheel Torque |
Galin,
It needs to be pretty tight. you may need to use both hands to move the
yoke. The wheel needs to be off the ground, of course.
I have seen a Cirrus nose wheel shimmy so bad it blew up the wheel pant.
Tim
al Message -----
From: Galin Hernandez
To: kis-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2012 11:03 AM
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Nose Wheel Torque
Tim,
Now that I re-read your e-mail it makes complete sense. "DUH"
I will check to see how much torque is needed to move the nose gear
fork.
Galin
On Tuesday, July 10, 2012, Galin Hernandez wrote:
Tim,
What do you mean you hook it on the yoke at the "axle point"?
Galin
On Tuesday, July 10, 2012, F. Tim Yoder wrote:
Galin,
I use a simple fish weight spring scale to set the torque on my
TR-1. I hook it on the yoke at the axel point and tighten the nut until
It takes 30# of pull on the scale to move the yoke. The pounds required
should be in your manual.
Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: Galin Hernandez
To: kis-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2012 5:26 AM
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Nose Wheel Torque
The bolt is threaded but there is no thread in the nose leg so
it just slides in and out. The roll pin is what holds it in the nose
leg. The only thing I can think is that instead of fabricating bolts for
the nose gear they just purchased a standard 3/4" threaded stud and
drilled the appropriate holes.
How do you measure 10lbs at the rear of the nose fork?
Galin
On Tue, Jul 10, 2012 at 6:45 AM, Mike and Michele Patten
<mikepapa@bigpond.com> wrote:
Galin,
I didn=92t realise the bolt on your aircraft was threaded into
the nose leg. On my aircraft the shaft which protrudes out of the leg
is parallel on the top section where it goes into the leg and is held
into the leg by the roll pin alone. The threaded section on the bottom
is only about 1inch long and supports the belville washers and
castellated nut. I assumed this was the upgraded gear, which replaced
the original. The tension of the retaining nut is not definitive, but a
function of a load required to move the wheel at a certain radius.
Can=92t remember the load, but something like 10lbs at the rear of the
nose fork. Best to err on the high side otherwise it will shimmy, which
is not as obvious to the pilot as someone on the ground observing. Hope
this all makes sense.
Regards,
Mike.
From: owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Galin
Hernandez
Sent: Monday, 9 July 2012 10:37 PM
To: kis-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Nose Wheel Torque
Thanks Mike. I am going to make it so the pin extends
completely from one side to the other. It just seems logical to me.
Also, how much torque do you put on the bolt? I read to tighten it until
it takes between 20-30 ft/lb to move the nose gear but how do you
measure this without special equipment? I have a torque wrench so I can
put a specific amount on the bolt.
Galin
On Mon, Jul 9, 2012 at 6:20 AM, Mike and Michele Patten
<mikepapa@bigpond.com> wrote:
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?KIS-List
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Message 10
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I like the idea of having a fitting on the nose fork so you can grease it
without taking the fork completely off. I will be doing this mod to my fork.
Galin
On Tuesday, July 10, 2012, ALFRED ROSA wrote:
> Galin,
>
> This is a photo of my nose gear. The pin you see inserted in the front of
> the leg is a "radius stop"
> which hit the aluminum stop blocks and prevents the wheel from turning too
> much to either side.
> The pin is solid ss and threaded into the leg. I remember the original
> instructions in the manual recommended
> using a roll pin but many people had problems with it shearing off which
> is why I beefed up mine.
> Are you sure the roll pin in your leg is for holding the bolt? It might
> be the pin originally meant for a radius stop.
> Have you removed the bolt from the leg and saw it wasn't threaded?
>
> Al[image: Inline image 2]
>
Message 11
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Galin=0A=0AThe nose gear origionally had a "radius stop" which, as-I reca
ll -(not a very reliable source) was simply a roll pin in the nose rod an
d-one on each side of the fork. The roll pins sheared off with some regul
arity and I never was able to-make a good fix. Just made it a practice to
-avoid sharp-turns. Your solution with blocks fixed on each side of the
fork is neat (as long as you use something tougher than a roll pin in the
nose rod). Wish I had thought of that.=0A-=0ADave=0A-=0A-=0A_________
_______________________=0A=0AFrom: Galin Hernandez <galinhdz@gmail.com>=0AT
o: "kis-list@matronics.com" <kis-list@matronics.com> =0ASent: Tuesday, July
10, 2012 1:56 PM=0ASubject: Re: KIS-List: Roll pin=0A=0A=0A=0AYes, I put a
borescope up the nose leg and verified there are no threads there. The pin
used only holds the bolt from falling out the bottom. The nose gear does n
ot have a "radius stop" pin in the front. It doesn't even have the bolt pin
sticking out the front. As soon as I sheared the pin, the bolt fell right
out.=0A=0AGalin=0A=0AOn Tuesday, July 10, 2012, ALFRED ROSA wrote:=0A=0AGa
lin,=0A>=0A>=0A>This is a photo of my nose gear. -The pin you see inserte
d in the front of the leg is a "radius stop" =0A>which hit the aluminum sto
p blocks and prevents the wheel from turning too much to either side. =0A>T
he pin is solid ss and threaded into the leg. -I remember the original in
structions in the manual recommended=0A>using a roll pin but many people ha
d problems with it shearing off which is why I beefed up mine. =0A>Are you
sure the roll pin in your leg is for holding the bolt? -It might be the p
in originally meant for a radius stop.=0A>Have you removed the bolt from th
e leg and saw it wasn't threaded?=0A>=0A> =0A>Al
Message 12
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Well Dave I would still rely on your recollection for things like this.
This isn't my solution but I am going to "borrow" it for the airplane.
Galin
On Tue, Jul 10, 2012 at 2:42 PM, David Tate <dptate49@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Galin
> The nose gear origionally had a "radius stop" which, as I recall (not a
> very reliable source) was simply a roll pin in the nose rod and one on each
> side of the fork. The roll pins sheared off with some regularity and I
> never was able to make a good fix. Just made it a practice to avoid
> sharp turns. Your solution with blocks fixed on each side of the fork is
> neat (as long as you use something tougher than a roll pin in the nose
> rod). Wish I had thought of that.
>
> Dave
>
>
> *From:* Galin Hernandez <galinhdz@gmail.com>
> *To:* "kis-list@matronics.com" <kis-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 10, 2012 1:56 PM
> *Subject:* Re: KIS-List: Roll pin
>
> Yes, I put a borescope up the nose leg and verified there are no threads
> there. The pin used only holds the bolt from falling out the bottom. The
> nose gear does not have a "radius stop" pin in the front. It doesn't even
> have the bolt pin sticking out the front. As soon as I sheared the pin, the
> bolt fell right out.
>
> Galin
>
> On Tuesday, July 10, 2012, ALFRED ROSA wrote:
>
> Galin,
>
> This is a photo of my nose gear. The pin you see inserted in the front of
> the leg is a "radius stop"
> which hit the aluminum stop blocks and prevents the wheel from turning too
> much to either side.
> The pin is solid ss and threaded into the leg. I remember the original
> instructions in the manual recommended
> using a roll pin but many people had problems with it shearing off which
> is why I beefed up mine.
> Are you sure the roll pin in your leg is for holding the bolt? It might
> be the pin originally meant for a radius stop.
> Have you removed the bolt from the leg and saw it wasn't threaded?
>
> Al[image: Inline image 2]
>
>
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