KIS-List Digest Archive

Sat 08/11/12


Total Messages Posted: 3



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:18 AM - Re: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on. (ALFRED ROSA)
     2. 08:10 PM - Re: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on. (Robert Reed)
     3. 11:31 PM - Re: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on. (Scott Stearns)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:18:17 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on.
    From: ALFRED ROSA <fredorosa@gmail.com>
    What primer are you using and what top coat paint? I've been rolling on UV Smooth Prime (Polyfiber) and like the way it fills and sands. I'm planning on a water base top coat by Polyfiber also. Al


    Message 2


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    Time: 08:10:09 PM PST US
    From: Robert Reed <robertr237@att.net>
    Subject: Re: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on.
    Al,=0A=0AI looked at using UV Smooth Prime and the PolyFiber topcoat, the S tewart System, =0Aand System Three Marine Paint system.- The UV Smooth Pr ime looked real good for =0Aa primer but I found too many negatives on the PolyFiber for composites that I =0Abacked off on using it.- I also have t he issue now of not having any available =0Afacilities for spray painting s o will be forced to find an alternate way to =0Afinish.- The Steward syst em definately didn't recomend anything but HVLP spray.- =0A=0A=0AI picked the System Three system because it fully supported roll and tip or =0Aspra ying.- I am using SilverTip Yacht Primer.- It-is a waterborne, two-pa rt =0Aepoxy coating specifically formulated as a tough, below-the-waterline primer for =0Amarine topcoats.-- I figured if it would work for marine applications it should =0Awork well for aircraft use as well.- The prime r does not contain a UV absorber.- =0AIt does go on easily with a roller and flows out nicely if you make sure and =0Akeep your area within temperat ure range of 65-80 degrees with HIGH 80% =0Ahumidity.- I have my shop air conditioned and used wet towels, sprayed the floor =0Aand put a wet towel o ver the airconditioner.- It raised the humidity level and =0Athe primer s pread out perfectly.- If you don't do this, the primer dries so =0Aquickl y that it will leave marks from the brush tip.=0A=0AFor the color coats I w ill be useing System Three WR-LPU Topcoat.- It-is a =0Atwo-part linear polyurethane coating specifically formulated for maximum =0Aperformance and ease of use. Available in 12 standard colors as well as clear =0Asatin and high gloss. When cured it is moisture, solvent and fuel resistant. =0AWR-L PU contains UV absorbers and will not yellow or lose gloss for years, =0Ade pending on exposure.- (Portions copied from lit)- Both primer and top c oat are =0Awater based.- The topcoat can use a crosslinker to produce a s uper hard finish.- =0AThinning uses distilled water and the top coat does not require mixing with =0Aother than water unless crosslinker is added wh ich is only a few drops per =0Aounce.- The top color coat paint appears t o be much thinner than the primer and =0Awith recommend water addition it s hould flow out much better than the primer.- I =0Awill be doing some test parts in the next few weeks to see how it flows out in =0Avarious conditio ns.- =0A=0A=0AMy plan is to use the roll and tip to apply two coats of pr imer.- Sand the first =0Atwo coats to make sure of filling any minor low spots.- Follow with two =0Aadditional primer coats that will be sanded fo r top coat preparation.- I will =0Athen add three coats of color top coat s with crosslinker added again using roll =0Aand tip.- I will let the col or coats fully cure and then perform a color sanding =0Ato remove any imper fectioins in the surface.- Finally, on those parts that I can =0Aget to m y shop for finish I will followup with two to three coats of clear high =0A gloss with the crosslinker again added.- I don't expect to have to finish sand =0Aand buff the clear but will if needed.- The fuselage is going to be a bigger =0Aproblem since it is at the hangar and can't be inclosed and protected for =0Apainting.- I also will have little control over dust an d humidity issues.- The =0Aplan...wait for a warm high humidity rainy wee k and spend a few days of misery =0Atrying to get the paint on.- That wil l not come before late fall or early next =0Aspring.- Dallas is just too darn dry.=0A=0AFinally, I know this is NOT the best way to finish my plane. - That is a given =0Abut there are no paint facilities on my airport and the airport forbids painting =0A(spray) in the hangars.- Can't say I blam e them.- Probably wouldn't make much =0Adifference if they did, the elect rical available to my bay won't even start my =0Acompressor.- So my optio ns are limited as are my funds for paying someone to put =0Aon a multi-thou sand dollar paint job.- It is both labor and time intensive but =0Ahopefu lly it will produce a good finish.- It won't win any awards but shouldn't =0Amake me hide my head in shame either.=0A=0ABob=0A=0A=0A=0A_____________ ___________________=0AFrom: ALFRED ROSA <fredorosa@gmail.com>=0ATo: kis-lis t@matronics.com=0ASent: Sat, August 11, 2012 7:18:24 AM=0ASubject: Re: KIS- List: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on.=0A=0AWhat primer are y ou using and what top coat paint? I've been rolling on UV =0ASmooth Prime ( Polyfiber) and like the way it fills and sands. I'm planning on a =0Awater ==== =0A


    Message 3


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    Time: 11:31:11 PM PST US
    From: Scott Stearns <sstearns2@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on.
    I primed and painted-my airplane outside.- My airport is also 100% no s praying in hangars, but they did not care about outside.- I used the UV s mooth prime with a roller initally, expensive waste of time.- I-sprayed auto body high build primer and painted with PPG Delfleet with a $15 harbo r freight gun.- The finish had a lot of orange peel, but remarkably littl e dust/dirt.- I wetsanded and buffed the paint and it looks great.- I w ould prime/paint outside again for sure.- I would-not try to-paint th e whole plane at once, but spilt it up into wing, fuselage, and-everythin g else on different days.-=0A-=0AScott=0A =0A=0A_______________________ _________=0A From: Robert Reed <robertr237@att.net>=0ATo: kis-list@matronic s.com =0ASent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 8:09 PM=0ASubject: Re: KIS-List: S anding, sanding, some more sanding and so on.=0A =0A=0AAl, =0A=0AI looked at using UV Smooth Prime and the PolyFiber topcoat, the Stewart System, and System Three Marine Paint system.- The UV Smooth Prime looked real good for a primer but I found too many negatives on the PolyFiber for composites that I backed off on using it.- I also have the issue now of not having any available facilities for spray painting so will be forced to find an al ternate way to finish.- The Steward system definately didn't recomend any thing but HVLP spray.- =0A=0AI picked the System Three system because it fully supported roll and tip or spraying.- I am using SilverTip Yacht Pr imer.- It-is a waterborne, two-part epoxy coating specifically formulat ed as a tough, below-the-waterline primer for marine topcoats.-- I figu red if it would work for marine applications it should work well for aircra ft use as well.- The primer does not contain a UV absorber.- It does go on easily with a roller and flows out nicely if you make sure and keep you r area within temperature range of 65-80 degrees with HIGH 80% humidity.- I have my shop airconditioned and used wet towels, sprayed the floor and p ut a wet towel over the airconditioner.- It raised the humidity level and the primer spread out perfectly.- If you don't do this, the primer dries so quickly that it will leave marks from the brush tip. =0A=0AFor the colo r coats I will be useing System Three WR-LPU Topcoat.- It-is a two-part linear polyurethane coating specifically formulated for maximum performanc e and ease of use. Available in 12 standard colors as well as clear satin a nd high gloss. When cured it is moisture, solvent and fuel resistant. WR-LP U contains UV absorbers and will not yellow or lose gloss for years, depend ing on exposure.- (Portions copied from lit)- Both primer and top coat are water based.- The topcoat can use a crosslinker to produce a super ha rd finish.- Thinning uses distilled water and the top coat does not requi re mixing with other than water unless crosslinker is added which is only a few drops per ounce.- The top color coat paint appears to be much thinne r than the primer and with recommend water addition it should flow out much better than the primer.- I will be doing some test parts in the next few weeks to see how it flows out in various conditions.- =0A =0AMy plan is to use the roll and tip to apply two coats of primer.- Sand the first two coats to make sure of filling any minor low spots.- Follow with two addi tional primer coats that will be sanded for top coat preparation.- I will then add three coats of color top coats with crosslinker added again using roll and tip.- I will let the color coats fully cure and then perform a color sanding to remove any imperfectioins in the surface.- Finally, on t hose parts that I can get to my shop for finish I will followup with two to three coats of clear high gloss with the crosslinker again added.- I don 't expect to have to finish sand and buff the clear but will if needed.- The fuselage is going to be a bigger problem since it is at the hangar and can't be inclosed and protected for painting.- I also will have little co ntrol over dust and humidity issues.- The plan...wait for a warm high hum idity rainy week and spend a few days of misery trying to get the paint on.- That will not come before late fall or early next spring.- Dallas is just too darn dry. =0A=0AFinally, I know this is NOT the best way to finish my plane.- That is a given but there are no paint facilities o n my airport and the airport forbids painting (spray) in the hangars.- Ca n't say I blame them.- Probably wouldn't make much difference if they did , the electrical available to my bay won't even start my compressor.- So my options are limited as are my funds for paying someone to put on a multi -thousand dollar paint job.- It is both labor and time intensive but hope fully it will produce a good finish.- It won't win any awards but shouldn 't make me hide my head in shame either. =0A=0ABob =0A=0A=0A=0A____________ ____________________=0A From: ALFRED ROSA <fredorosa@gmail.com>=0ATo: kis-l ist@matronics.com=0ASent: Sat, August 11, 2012 7:18:24 AM=0ASubject: Re: KI S-List: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on.=0A=0AWhat primer are you using and what top coat paint? I've been rolling on UV Smooth Prime (P olyfiber) and like the way it fills and sands. I'm planning on a water base top coat by Polyfiber also. =0A =0AAl=0A=0A=0A=0Ahttp:====== ==============




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