---------------------------------------------------------- KIS-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 08/11/12: 3 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:18 AM - Re: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on. (ALFRED ROSA) 2. 08:10 PM - Re: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on. (Robert Reed) 3. 11:31 PM - Re: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on. (Scott Stearns) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:18:17 AM PST US Subject: Re: KIS-List: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on. From: ALFRED ROSA What primer are you using and what top coat paint? I've been rolling on UV Smooth Prime (Polyfiber) and like the way it fills and sands. I'm planning on a water base top coat by Polyfiber also. Al ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 08:10:09 PM PST US From: Robert Reed Subject: Re: KIS-List: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on. Al,=0A=0AI looked at using UV Smooth Prime and the PolyFiber topcoat, the S tewart System, =0Aand System Three Marine Paint system.- The UV Smooth Pr ime looked real good for =0Aa primer but I found too many negatives on the PolyFiber for composites that I =0Abacked off on using it.- I also have t he issue now of not having any available =0Afacilities for spray painting s o will be forced to find an alternate way to =0Afinish.- The Steward syst em definately didn't recomend anything but HVLP spray.- =0A=0A=0AI picked the System Three system because it fully supported roll and tip or =0Aspra ying.- I am using SilverTip Yacht Primer.- It-is a waterborne, two-pa rt =0Aepoxy coating specifically formulated as a tough, below-the-waterline primer for =0Amarine topcoats.-- I figured if it would work for marine applications it should =0Awork well for aircraft use as well.- The prime r does not contain a UV absorber.- =0AIt does go on easily with a roller and flows out nicely if you make sure and =0Akeep your area within temperat ure range of 65-80 degrees with HIGH 80% =0Ahumidity.- I have my shop air conditioned and used wet towels, sprayed the floor =0Aand put a wet towel o ver the airconditioner.- It raised the humidity level and =0Athe primer s pread out perfectly.- If you don't do this, the primer dries so =0Aquickl y that it will leave marks from the brush tip.=0A=0AFor the color coats I w ill be useing System Three WR-LPU Topcoat.- It-is a =0Atwo-part linear polyurethane coating specifically formulated for maximum =0Aperformance and ease of use. Available in 12 standard colors as well as clear =0Asatin and high gloss. When cured it is moisture, solvent and fuel resistant. =0AWR-L PU contains UV absorbers and will not yellow or lose gloss for years, =0Ade pending on exposure.- (Portions copied from lit)- Both primer and top c oat are =0Awater based.- The topcoat can use a crosslinker to produce a s uper hard finish.- =0AThinning uses distilled water and the top coat does not require mixing with =0Aother than water unless crosslinker is added wh ich is only a few drops per =0Aounce.- The top color coat paint appears t o be much thinner than the primer and =0Awith recommend water addition it s hould flow out much better than the primer.- I =0Awill be doing some test parts in the next few weeks to see how it flows out in =0Avarious conditio ns.- =0A=0A=0AMy plan is to use the roll and tip to apply two coats of pr imer.- Sand the first =0Atwo coats to make sure of filling any minor low spots.- Follow with two =0Aadditional primer coats that will be sanded fo r top coat preparation.- I will =0Athen add three coats of color top coat s with crosslinker added again using roll =0Aand tip.- I will let the col or coats fully cure and then perform a color sanding =0Ato remove any imper fectioins in the surface.- Finally, on those parts that I can =0Aget to m y shop for finish I will followup with two to three coats of clear high =0A gloss with the crosslinker again added.- I don't expect to have to finish sand =0Aand buff the clear but will if needed.- The fuselage is going to be a bigger =0Aproblem since it is at the hangar and can't be inclosed and protected for =0Apainting.- I also will have little control over dust an d humidity issues.- The =0Aplan...wait for a warm high humidity rainy wee k and spend a few days of misery =0Atrying to get the paint on.- That wil l not come before late fall or early next =0Aspring.- Dallas is just too darn dry.=0A=0AFinally, I know this is NOT the best way to finish my plane. - That is a given =0Abut there are no paint facilities on my airport and the airport forbids painting =0A(spray) in the hangars.- Can't say I blam e them.- Probably wouldn't make much =0Adifference if they did, the elect rical available to my bay won't even start my =0Acompressor.- So my optio ns are limited as are my funds for paying someone to put =0Aon a multi-thou sand dollar paint job.- It is both labor and time intensive but =0Ahopefu lly it will produce a good finish.- It won't win any awards but shouldn't =0Amake me hide my head in shame either.=0A=0ABob=0A=0A=0A=0A_____________ ___________________=0AFrom: ALFRED ROSA =0ATo: kis-lis t@matronics.com=0ASent: Sat, August 11, 2012 7:18:24 AM=0ASubject: Re: KIS- List: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on.=0A=0AWhat primer are y ou using and what top coat paint? I've been rolling on UV =0ASmooth Prime ( Polyfiber) and like the way it fills and sands. I'm planning on a =0Awater ==== =0A ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 11:31:11 PM PST US From: Scott Stearns Subject: Re: KIS-List: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on. I primed and painted-my airplane outside.- My airport is also 100% no s praying in hangars, but they did not care about outside.- I used the UV s mooth prime with a roller initally, expensive waste of time.- I-sprayed auto body high build primer and painted with PPG Delfleet with a $15 harbo r freight gun.- The finish had a lot of orange peel, but remarkably littl e dust/dirt.- I wetsanded and buffed the paint and it looks great.- I w ould prime/paint outside again for sure.- I would-not try to-paint th e whole plane at once, but spilt it up into wing, fuselage, and-everythin g else on different days.-=0A-=0AScott=0A =0A=0A_______________________ _________=0A From: Robert Reed =0ATo: kis-list@matronic s.com =0ASent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 8:09 PM=0ASubject: Re: KIS-List: S anding, sanding, some more sanding and so on.=0A =0A=0AAl, =0A=0AI looked at using UV Smooth Prime and the PolyFiber topcoat, the Stewart System, and System Three Marine Paint system.- The UV Smooth Prime looked real good for a primer but I found too many negatives on the PolyFiber for composites that I backed off on using it.- I also have the issue now of not having any available facilities for spray painting so will be forced to find an al ternate way to finish.- The Steward system definately didn't recomend any thing but HVLP spray.- =0A=0AI picked the System Three system because it fully supported roll and tip or spraying.- I am using SilverTip Yacht Pr imer.- It-is a waterborne, two-part epoxy coating specifically formulat ed as a tough, below-the-waterline primer for marine topcoats.-- I figu red if it would work for marine applications it should work well for aircra ft use as well.- The primer does not contain a UV absorber.- It does go on easily with a roller and flows out nicely if you make sure and keep you r area within temperature range of 65-80 degrees with HIGH 80% humidity.- I have my shop airconditioned and used wet towels, sprayed the floor and p ut a wet towel over the airconditioner.- It raised the humidity level and the primer spread out perfectly.- If you don't do this, the primer dries so quickly that it will leave marks from the brush tip. =0A=0AFor the colo r coats I will be useing System Three WR-LPU Topcoat.- It-is a two-part linear polyurethane coating specifically formulated for maximum performanc e and ease of use. Available in 12 standard colors as well as clear satin a nd high gloss. When cured it is moisture, solvent and fuel resistant. WR-LP U contains UV absorbers and will not yellow or lose gloss for years, depend ing on exposure.- (Portions copied from lit)- Both primer and top coat are water based.- The topcoat can use a crosslinker to produce a super ha rd finish.- Thinning uses distilled water and the top coat does not requi re mixing with other than water unless crosslinker is added which is only a few drops per ounce.- The top color coat paint appears to be much thinne r than the primer and with recommend water addition it should flow out much better than the primer.- I will be doing some test parts in the next few weeks to see how it flows out in various conditions.- =0A =0AMy plan is to use the roll and tip to apply two coats of primer.- Sand the first two coats to make sure of filling any minor low spots.- Follow with two addi tional primer coats that will be sanded for top coat preparation.- I will then add three coats of color top coats with crosslinker added again using roll and tip.- I will let the color coats fully cure and then perform a color sanding to remove any imperfectioins in the surface.- Finally, on t hose parts that I can get to my shop for finish I will followup with two to three coats of clear high gloss with the crosslinker again added.- I don 't expect to have to finish sand and buff the clear but will if needed.- The fuselage is going to be a bigger problem since it is at the hangar and can't be inclosed and protected for painting.- I also will have little co ntrol over dust and humidity issues.- The plan...wait for a warm high hum idity rainy week and spend a few days of misery trying to get the paint on.- That will not come before late fall or early next spring.- Dallas is just too darn dry. =0A=0AFinally, I know this is NOT the best way to finish my plane.- That is a given but there are no paint facilities o n my airport and the airport forbids painting (spray) in the hangars.- Ca n't say I blame them.- Probably wouldn't make much difference if they did , the electrical available to my bay won't even start my compressor.- So my options are limited as are my funds for paying someone to put on a multi -thousand dollar paint job.- It is both labor and time intensive but hope fully it will produce a good finish.- It won't win any awards but shouldn 't make me hide my head in shame either. =0A=0ABob =0A=0A=0A=0A____________ ____________________=0A From: ALFRED ROSA =0ATo: kis-l ist@matronics.com=0ASent: Sat, August 11, 2012 7:18:24 AM=0ASubject: Re: KI S-List: Sanding, sanding, some more sanding and so on.=0A=0AWhat primer are you using and what top coat paint? I've been rolling on UV Smooth Prime (P olyfiber) and like the way it fills and sands. I'm planning on a water base top coat by Polyfiber also. =0A =0AAl=0A=0A=0A=0Ahttp:====== ============== ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message kis-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/KIS-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/kis-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/kis-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.