KIS-List Digest Archive

Sat 04/20/13


Total Messages Posted: 7



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:59 AM - Re: center stick question (Graham Brighton)
     2. 12:47 PM - Re: Windows (mark_trickel)
     3. 02:44 PM - Re: Re: Windows (ALFRED ROSA)
     4. 07:16 PM - Castoring Nose Wheel Supplement (Galin Hernandez)
     5. 08:18 PM - Re: center stick question (Scott Stearns)
     6. 08:31 PM - KIS Nose Wheel Assembly Measurements and Details (Galin Hernandez)
     7. 09:13 PM - Re: Nose wheel assembly damage. (Galin Hernandez)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 04:59:40 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: center stick question
    From: Graham Brighton <gbrighton@skymesh.com.au>
    Hi OC, Sorry didn't mean something was specially wrong .... Is that m ost lighties share that common lack of harmony of control feel with roll and pitch .... , With our Ailerons which are specially wholesome ( non tapered) .. some 'leve rage' ... is going to be required .. (specially with increased speed !) ... Where as elevators are mostly light ..!? .. In theory achieving mechanical leverage advantage in equal measure to arrive at uniform control input betw een pitch and roll is straight fwd .... but carn't think of any ( admit am o nly ppl and not flown very many types ..!) .., that have achieved it ..?! Playing with bell crank ratios is the logical way .. but would be super lab orious I'm sure ... With my adjustable length stick ... roll is as light/hea vy as my personal preference ( for whatever speed .. ) .... However pitch w hich is normally light gets lighter with extra leverage grrr .... Am surpr ised someone hasn't come up with some sort of fail safe dampener devise to e nable Elevator input feel to be adjusted to harmonise together with Aileron i nput feel .... , probably there is ... but i just haven't stumbled across it sob ..,!?? , anybody ..??, Anyway am happy at present to retract down the stick for xcrountry legs and map reading/iPad etc ..., Just was that stick position came up that's all ... , Cheers Graham . Sent from my iPad On 20/04/2013, at 1:36 PM, "Owen Baker " <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote: > 4/19/2013 > > Hello Graham, You wrote: =9CHaven't figured how to balance elevator f eel though ... Luv to hear if anyone has a fix for that ... ??=9D > > What sort of balancing is needed for KIS TR-1 elevator feel? > > Thanks, > > OC > > 'O C' Baker says "The best investment you can make is the effort to gather and understand information." > > ========================= ============ > > From: Graham Brighton > Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 7:46 PM > To: kis-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: KIS-List: center stick question > > G'day Galin, > Actually I attached a couple pics with my post .... . Can resend later when I get hm if u haven't received ... just a simple 'tw ist lock' telescope setup ... Haven't figured how to balance elevator feel t hough ... Luv to hear if anyone has a fix for that ... ?? > Graham > > > Sent from my iPad > > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= >


    Message 2


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    Time: 12:47:13 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Windows
    From: "mark_trickel" <marktrickel@gmail.com>
    Hello Al, At least that is a better price than the general prices Ruth gave me a while back. If you decide to make your own replacement you need a male mold (pulled from the inside of the window). The window may be too big for your wife's oven, you might be able to fashion something on the ol' gas barbeque grill (I'd be happy to send you some used .008 aluminum printing plates (free of charge) you could pop rivet or sheet metal screw to a Home Depot angle iron frame). Heat the plastic first then put it on the mold in the oven or your mold might melt if it gets to hot (you might want to consider plaster of paris to support the mold in the oven). If you start with a slightly heavier piece of acrylic you could resurface the window like the pros do with finer and finer grades of wet or dry sand paper. Polishes to finish to a high luster are available from any aircraft supply place (every aircraft owner has this stuff). To check for imperfections in the optics, string yarn on a frame in a grid pattern two or three layers deep (to check the perspective or depth perception) and look through the window to check for distortions. I learned the hard way you can't leave any rough edges on the window after trimming, the edges need to be pretty smooth too, it always seems to crack when left rough. Good Luck, Mark T. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399013#399013


    Message 3


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    Time: 02:44:02 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Windows
    From: ALFRED ROSA <fredorosa@gmail.com>
    Thanks Mark for the advice. I started making a male mold with layups of fiberglass on the concave side. This will be reinforced with 1 inch plaster of paris. I'll be making the oven out of medium density fiberboard (MFD) as the size needed is greater than your kitchen oven. The 300 degree temp will be produced by a number of halogen bulbs. An oven thermometer and a small window in the oven will finish it off. I'm taking step by step pictures of the process to be posted on Bob's web site. If things go as planned, I can supply door windows for about 100 bucks delivered to anyone wanting them. Al On Sat, Apr 20, 2013 at 3:46 PM, mark_trickel <marktrickel@gmail.com> wrote: > > Hello Al, > At least that is a better price than the general prices Ruth gave me a > while back. If you decide to make your own replacement you need a male mold > (pulled from the inside of the window). The window may be too big for your > wife's oven, you might be able to fashion something on the ol' gas barbeque > grill (I'd be happy to send you some used .008 aluminum printing plates > (free of charge) you could pop rivet or sheet metal screw to a Home Depot > angle iron frame). Heat the plastic first then put it on the mold in the > oven or your mold might melt if it gets to hot (you might want to consider > plaster of paris to support the mold in the oven). If you start with a > slightly heavier piece of acrylic you could resurface the window like the > pros do with finer and finer grades of wet or dry sand paper. Polishes to > finish to a high luster are available from any aircraft supply place (every > aircraft owner has this stuff). To check for imperfections in the optics, > string yarn on a frame in a ! > grid pattern two or three layers deep (to check the perspective or depth > perception) and look through the window to check for distortions. I learned > the hard way you can't leave any rough edges on the window after trimming, > the edges need to be pretty smooth too, it always seems to crack when left > rough. > Good Luck, Mark T. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399013#399013 > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:16:26 PM PST US
    From: Galin Hernandez <galinhdz@gmail.com>
    Subject: Castoring Nose Wheel Supplement
    All; Here is a scanned copy of the Castoring Nosewheel Supplement to the KIS builders manual I have thanks to Dave Tate. I will send photo's of my disassembled nosewheel assembly with dimensions. Bob, please post this on your KIS website for future access.


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:18:08 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: center stick question
    From: Scott Stearns <sstearns2@yahoo.com>
    I modified my elevator bellcrank with 3 sets of holes so i could adjust it i f needed. I fly with about 60% of the mechanical advantage as the stock set up and and I added 2" to the elevator chord. Drilling a couple bolt holes i n the bellcrank to reduce the mechanical advantage is pretty simple and shou ld make a noticable improvement. I also added a bob weight so as the G forces build up the weight adds forwar d stick force. That helped a lot to smooth out turbulence and the airplane f eels more solid during spirited maneuvering. I really recommend the bob wei ght. I have pics if anyone wants to see. Very cheap and simple. My ailerons are still a too heavy but much better matched to the elevator co mpared to factory setup. Far and away the best flying light airplane is a bonanza. Especially the sh ort wing ones. The control harmony is perfect. I will never understand why all light airplanes do not have that kind of control harmony concidering is was nearly the first modern light airplane. Scott On Apr 20, 2013, at 4:54 AM, Graham Brighton <gbrighton@skymesh.com.au> wrot e: > Hi OC, > Sorry didn't mean something was specially wrong .... Is that most lighties share that common lack of harmony of control feel with roll a nd pitch .... , > With our Ailerons which are specially wholesome ( non tapered) .. some 'le verage' ... is going to be required .. (specially with increased speed !) .. . > > Where as elevators are mostly light ..!? .. In theory achieving mechanic al leverage advantage in equal measure to arrive at uniform control input be tween pitch and roll is straight fwd .... but carn't think of any ( admit am only ppl and not flown very many types ..!) .., that have achieved it ..?! > > Playing with bell crank ratios is the logical way .. but would be super l aborious I'm sure ... With my adjustable length stick ... roll is as light/h eavy as my personal preference ( for whatever speed .. ) .... However pitch which is normally light gets lighter with extra leverage grrr .... Am sur prised someone hasn't come up with some sort of fail safe dampener devise to enable Elevator input feel to be adjusted to harmonise together with Ailero n input feel .... , probably there is ... but i just haven't stumbled across it sob ..,!?? , anybody ..??, > > Anyway am happy at present to retract down the stick for xcrountry legs a nd map reading/iPad etc ..., > > Just was that stick position came up that's all ... , > Cheers > Graham > > . > > > > Sent from my iPad > > On 20/04/2013, at 1:36 PM, "Owen Baker " <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote: > >> 4/19/2013 >> >> Hello Graham, You wrote: =9CHaven't figured how to balance elevator feel though ... Luv to hear if anyone has a fix for that ... ??=9D >> >> What sort of balancing is needed for KIS TR-1 elevator feel? >> >> Thanks, >> >> OC >> >> 'O C' Baker says "The best investment you can make is the effort to gathe r and understand information." >> >> ========================= ============ >> >> From: Graham Brighton >> Sent: Friday, April 19, 2013 7:46 PM >> To: kis-list@matronics.com >> Subject: Re: KIS-List: center stick question >> >> G'day Galin, >> Actually I attached a couple pics with my post ... .. Can resend later when I get hm if u haven't received ... just a simple 't wist lock' telescope setup ... Haven't figured how to balance elevator feel t hough ... Luv to hear if anyone has a fix for that ... ?? >> Graham >> >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >> >> >> >> ========================= ========= >> //www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-List >> ========================= ========= >> cs.com >> ========================= ========= >> matronics.com/contribution >> ========================= ========= >> > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= >


    Message 6


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    Time: 08:31:40 PM PST US
    From: Galin Hernandez <galinhdz@gmail.com>
    Subject: KIS Nose Wheel Assembly Measurements and Details
    Here is a .pdf file containing photos, measurements and details of the insides of the KIS Nose Wheel Assembly as best I could make it. I hope it is useful for building and maintaining KIS aircraft.


    Message 7


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    Time: 09:13:53 PM PST US
    From: Galin Hernandez <galinhdz@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Nose wheel assembly damage.
    Mike; Lyle Hendricks is tooled up and fabricates the nose wheel assembly, sans the internal parts. He fabricated the free castoring nose wheel assemblies we use in the TR-4. On Wed, Apr 10, 2013 at 8:51 AM, Galin Hernandez <galinhdz@gmail.com> wrote: > Will do > > > On Wednesday, April 10, 2013, Mike Pienaar wrote: > >> ** >> Hi Galin, >> >> I was thinking of dimensional drawings so that I coulsd build a replica. >> >> I would appreciate a copy of the supplement to the manual, all the info >> may be there. >> >> Thanks >> >> Mike >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> *From:* Galin Hernandez >> *To:* kis-list@matronics.com >> *Sent:* Saturday, April 06, 2013 6:14 PM >> *Subject:* Re: KIS-List: Nose wheel assembly damage. >> >> Mike, what do you mean measure the gear? I have a castoring nosewheel >> supplement to the manual if you want a copy. >> >> On Saturday, April 6, 2013, Mike Pienaar wrote: >> >>> ** >>> Galin, >>> >>> I have the steerable gear and may want to change to the castoring gear >>> in the future. >>> >>> If it is not too much trouble could you please measure the gear and put >>> the dimension and more foto's and deatails on Bob's site as I only see the >>> steerable version in the manual. >>> >>> Thanks >>> >>> MIke >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> *From:* Galin Hernandez >>> *To:* kis-list@matronics.com >>> *Sent:* Friday, April 05, 2013 4:20 PM >>> *Subject:* Re: KIS-List: Nose wheel assembly damage. >>> >>> As far as we can tell there was no damage whatsoever to the gear tube. >>> >>> I got a reply from Matronics saying the picture can't be forwarded so >>> here is another smaller version of the same picture just in case. >>> >>> Here is the picture of the disassembled nose gear assembly with a new >>> shock absorber next to it. An extension is added to the top part of the >>> shock >>> absorber with two suspension coils that are also part of the assembly as spacers. >>> You can see the top part of the stock shock that must be cut off in >>> order for it to fit inside the assembly. >>> >>> >>> On Fri, Apr 5, 2013 at 5:04 PM, Robert Reed <robertr237@att.net> wrote: >>> >>> Looks like it is essentially a shock dampened coil spring assembly. >>> The top part that you have to cut away is essentially the dust cover that >>> was replaced by the outside of the nose gear tube. Interesting bit of >>> Aggie Engineering. (Inside joke on Texas A & M) >>> >>> The replacement looks like the right one. Can you tell if the exhaust >>> heat did any damage to the gear tube? >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> *From:* Galin Hernandez <galinhdz@gmail.com> >>> *To:* "kis-list@matronics.com" <kis-list@matronics.com> >>> *Sent:* Fri, April 5, 2013 4:41:31 PM >>> >>> *Subject:* Re: KIS-List: Nose wheel assembly damage. >>> >>> Here is a picture of the disassembled nose gear assembly with a new >>> shock absorber next to it. An extension is added to the top part of the >>> shock absorber with two suspension coils that are also part of the assembly >>> as spacers. You can see the top part of the stock shock that must be cut >>> off in order for it to fit inside the assembly. >>> >>> >>> On Fri, Apr 5, 2013 at 2:36 PM, Randy Ott <randy.ott@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>> D >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> On Apr 4, 2013, at 4:43 PM, Galin Hernandez <galinhdz@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>> * >>> >>> et="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-List >>> tp://forums.matronics.com >>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>> * >>> >>> * >> >> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?KIS-List >> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com >> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c* >> >> * >> >> * >> >>




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