KIS-List Digest Archive

Thu 10/31/13


Total Messages Posted: 5



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:07 AM - Re: Wing removal on a TR-1 (BarryH)
     2. 06:00 AM - Wing removal on a TR-1 (Owen Baker)
     3. 06:14 AM - Re: Wing removal on a TR-1 (BarryH)
     4. 09:52 AM - Re: Wing removal on a TR-1 (Galin Hernandez)
     5. 10:15 AM - Re: Wing removal on a TR-1 (Scott Stearns)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:07:08 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wing removal on a TR-1
    From: "BarryH" <barry.ttds@gmail.com>
    Great information. Thank you Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411784#411784


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:00:15 AM PST US
    From: "Owen Baker " <bakerocb@cox.net>
    Subject: Wing removal on a TR-1
    10/31/2013 Hello All KIS Builders and Maintainers, Mark Trickel wrote: =9CIf they are nut plate and corrosion has set in getting those screws out can be difficult.=9D Amen. And a great way to avoid that head stripping problem in the future is to avoid using Phillips drive machine screws. Hex socket (Allen drive) and 6 lobe (Torx drive) machine screws are vastly superior and not just for avoiding the stripping out problem. Every builder that has ever tried the non Phillips drive screws has become a believer. (Bill Harrelson, the guy that flew his Lancair IV non stop from Guam to Jax FL, recently thanked me profusely for steering him right on machine screw drives and told me that he had built his plane with almost no Phillips drive screws.) You can obtain these hex socket and 6 lobe drive screws, in stainless steel if you wish, and with aviation 100 degree countersink on the flat heads, from Microfasteners: http://www.microfasteners.com/ When working with these screws the proper drive tools such as a kit from Chapman is essential: http://www.chapmanmfg.com/ OC 'O C' Baker says "The best investment you can make is the effort to gather and understand information." ==================== Time: 06:44:08 PM PST US Subject: KIS-List: Re: Wing removal on a TR-1 From: "mark_trickel" <marktrickel@gmail.com> Hey Barry, Jerry is referring to the 6 X 6 access panels on the outboard underside of each wing located over the aileron bell crank. The left wing should also have the pilot static ports attached to it. These panels are cut into the wing skins by the builder and have 4 screws in the corners of each panel. There were supposed to be nut plates attached to the inner fiberglass layer of the laminated wing skin in each corner to secure the panel to the wing. Not all builders used nut plates, my build used plain sheet metal screws and they just do not hold up. I believe Jerry is saying the panel may be glued in place. You may want to pack two more tools a Dremel with those little gridding discs and possibly a few other cutting attachments, and if that dont work a jig saw to cut out the whole panel. Heck, its fiberglass and easy to patch up or fabricate a new one, but dont cut to close to the corners where the nut plates are supposed to be just in case they may actually be there. You wont want to be wasting too much time getting the cover panels off youll have you hands full getting the wing off and the plane loaded. It took me 4 hours to set up my trailer rigging and get the plane loaded and that was 2 hours more than I thought it would take. There are other fairings on the bottom side of the fuselage you will need to remove. One covering the spar box opening. Two small removable leading edge fairings on underside of the wing. Two larger fairings that contour the wing to the fuselage. These should all have nut plates used to attach them but may also have sheet metal screws in place. If they are nut plate and corrosion has set in getting those screws out can be difficult. If the heads become stripped out the Dremel and thin griding disc deal is great to cut larger slots in the head for easier removal. Richard Kindig did come to Oshkosh, maybe even more than once. I recall he was at one of the KIS get together dinners. It is hard for me to remember everything that happened but I do recall Richard K. telling us he liked building airplanes and was in the habit of buying derelict or unfinished projects and finishing them off, then enjoying them for a while, and then he'd sell them and move on to another project. Before he bought the KIS he previously finished off a Glasair. There are several post in the KIS archives by Richard K. He was unmarried and so he had plenty of time for airplane building. I am sure there were other airplane projects after his KIS. I think he did finally settle down and get married. He is now living in one of the Virginia States, though I am not sure which one. Mark T.


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:14:39 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wing removal on a TR-1
    From: "BarryH" <barry.ttds@gmail.com>
    Yes, I agree. I will definatly not use phillips heads when I attach it back on. I have already removed those panels and most all of the screws were stripped out. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411788#411788


    Message 4


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    Time: 09:52:57 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wing removal on a TR-1
    From: Galin Hernandez <galinhdz@gmail.com>
    I echo what OC posted. My TR4 is almost completely 6 lobe Torx and this makes a huge difference and the price difference is so small. It is a great investment. On Thursday, October 31, 2013, Owen Baker wrote: > 10/31/2013 > > Hello All KIS Builders and Maintainers, Mark Trickel wrote: =93If they ar e > nut plate and corrosion has set > in getting those screws out can be difficult.=94 > > Amen. And a great way to avoid that head stripping problem in the future > is to avoid using Phillips drive machine screws. Hex socket (Allen drive) > and 6 lobe (Torx drive) machine screws are vastly superior and not just f or > avoiding the stripping out problem. > > Every builder that has ever tried the non Phillips drive screws has becom e > a believer. (Bill Harrelson, the guy that flew his Lancair IV non stop fr om > Guam to Jax FL, recently thanked me profusely for steering him right on > machine screw drives and told me that he had built his plane with almost no > Phillips drive screws.) > > You can obtain these hex socket and 6 lobe drive screws, in stainless > steel if you wish, and with aviation 100 degree countersink on the flat > heads, from Microfasteners: > > http://www.microfasteners.com/ > > When working with these screws the proper drive tools such as a kit from > Chapman is essential: > > http://www.chapmanmfg.com/ > > OC > > 'O C' Baker says "The best investment you can make is the effort to gathe r > and understand information." > > ======================== ===================== > > > Time: 06:44:08 PM PST US > Subject: KIS-List: Re: Wing removal on a TR-1 > From: "mark_trickel" <marktrickel@gmail.com <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml', > 'marktrickel@gmail.com');>> > > > Hey Barry, > > Jerry is referring to the 6 X 6 access panels on the outboard underside o f > each > wing located over the aileron bell crank. The left wing should also have > the > pilot static ports attached to it. These panels are cut into the wing > skins by > the builder and have 4 screws in the corners of each panel. There were > supposed > to be nut plates attached to the inner fiberglass layer of the laminated > wing > skin in each corner to secure the panel to the wing. Not all builders use d > nut plates, my build used plain sheet metal screws and they just do not > hold up. > I believe Jerry is saying the panel may be glued in place. You may want t o > pack two more tools a Dremel with those little gridding discs and > possibly a > few other cutting attachments, and if that dont work a jig saw to cut out > the > whole panel. Heck, its fiberglass and easy to patch up or fabricate a new > one, > but dont cut to close to the corners where the nut plates are supposed to > be > just in case they may actually be there. You wont want to be wasting too > much > time getting the cover panels off youll have you hands full getting the > wing off > and the plane loaded. It took me 4 hours to set up my trailer rigging and > get > the plane loaded and that was 2 hours more than I thought it would take. > > There are other fairings on the bottom side of the fuselage you will need > to remove. > One covering the spar box opening. Two small removable leading edge > fairings > on underside of the wing. Two larger fairings that contour the wing to th e > fuselage. These should all have nut plates used to attach them but may al so > have sheet metal screws in place. If they are nut plate and corrosion has > set > in getting those screws out can be difficult. If the heads become strippe d > out > the Dremel and thin griding disc deal is great to cut larger slots in the > head > for easier removal. > > Richard Kindig did come to Oshkosh, maybe even more than once. I recall h e > was > at one of the KIS get together dinners. It is hard for me to remember > everything > that happened but I do recall Richard K. telling us he liked building > airplanes > and was in the habit of buying derelict or unfinished projects and > finishing > them off, then enjoying them for a while, and then he'd sell them and mov e > on to another project. Before he bought the KIS he previously finished of f > a > Glasair. There are several post in the KIS archives by Richard K. He was > unmarried > and so he had plenty of time for airplane building. I am sure there were > other airplane projects after his KIS. I think he did finally settle down > and > get married. He is now living in one of the Virginia States, though I am > not sure > which one. > > Mark T. > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > * > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 10:15:21 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Wing removal on a TR-1
    From: Scott Stearns <sstearns2@yahoo.com>
    It is just beyond my comprehension that we, in the 21st century, still use f lat or phillips head screws for anything. Scott On Oct 31, 2013, at 5:59 AM, "Owen Baker " <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote: > 10/31/2013 > > Hello All KIS Builders and Maintainers, Mark Trickel wrote: =9CIf th ey are nut plate and corrosion has set > in getting those screws out can be difficult.=9D > > Amen. And a great way to avoid that head stripping problem in the future i s to avoid using Phillips drive machine screws. Hex socket (Allen drive) and 6 lobe (Torx drive) machine screws are vastly superior and not just for avo iding the stripping out problem. > > Every builder that has ever tried the non Phillips drive screws has become a believer. (Bill Harrelson, the guy that flew his Lancair IV non stop from Guam to Jax FL, recently thanked me profusely for steering him right on mac hine screw drives and told me that he had built his plane with almost no Phi llips drive screws.) > > You can obtain these hex socket and 6 lobe drive screws, in stainless stee l if you wish, and with aviation 100 degree countersink on the flat heads, f rom Microfasteners: > > http://www.microfasteners.com/ > > When working with these screws the proper drive tools such as a kit from C hapman is essential: > > http://www.chapmanmfg.com/ > > OC > > 'O C' Baker says "The best investment you can make is the effort to gather and understand information." > > ========================= ==================== > > > Time: 06:44:08 PM PST US > Subject: KIS-List: Re: Wing removal on a TR-1 > From: "mark_trickel" <marktrickel@gmail.com> > > > Hey Barry, > > Jerry is referring to the 6 X 6 access panels on the outboard underside of each > wing located over the aileron bell crank. The left wing should also have t he > pilot static ports attached to it. These panels are cut into the wing skin s by > the builder and have 4 screws in the corners of each panel. There were sup posed > to be nut plates attached to the inner fiberglass layer of the laminated w ing > skin in each corner to secure the panel to the wing. Not all builders used > nut plates, my build used plain sheet metal screws and they just do not ho ld up. > I believe Jerry is saying the panel may be glued in place. You may want to > pack two more tools a Dremel with those little gridding discs and possibl y a > few other cutting attachments, and if that dont work a jig saw to cut out t he > whole panel. Heck, its fiberglass and easy to patch up or fabricate a new o ne, > but dont cut to close to the corners where the nut plates are supposed to b e > just in case they may actually be there. You wont want to be wasting too m uch > time getting the cover panels off youll have you hands full getting the wi ng off > and the plane loaded. It took me 4 hours to set up my trailer rigging and g et > the plane loaded and that was 2 hours more than I thought it would take. > > There are other fairings on the bottom side of the fuselage you will need t o remove. > One covering the spar box opening. Two small removable leading edge fairi ngs > on underside of the wing. Two larger fairings that contour the wing to the > fuselage. These should all have nut plates used to attach them but may als o > have sheet metal screws in place. If they are nut plate and corrosion has s et > in getting those screws out can be difficult. If the heads become stripped out > the Dremel and thin griding disc deal is great to cut larger slots in the h ead > for easier removal. > > Richard Kindig did come to Oshkosh, maybe even more than once. I recall he was > at one of the KIS get together dinners. It is hard for me to remember ever ything > that happened but I do recall Richard K. telling us he liked building airp lanes > and was in the habit of buying derelict or unfinished projects and finishi ng > them off, then enjoying them for a while, and then he'd sell them and move > on to another project. Before he bought the KIS he previously finished off a > Glasair. There are several post in the KIS archives by Richard K. He was u nmarried > and so he had plenty of time for airplane building. I am sure there were > other airplane projects after his KIS. I think he did finally settle down a nd > get married. He is now living in one of the Virginia States, though I am n ot sure > which one. > > Mark T. > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= >




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