Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:07 AM - Re: Wing removal on a TR-1 (BarryH)
2. 06:00 AM - Wing removal on a TR-1 (Owen Baker)
3. 06:14 AM - Re: Wing removal on a TR-1 (BarryH)
4. 09:52 AM - Re: Wing removal on a TR-1 (Galin Hernandez)
5. 10:15 AM - Re: Wing removal on a TR-1 (Scott Stearns)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Wing removal on a TR-1 |
Great information. Thank you
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411784#411784
Message 2
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Subject: | Wing removal on a TR-1 |
10/31/2013
Hello All KIS Builders and Maintainers, Mark Trickel wrote: =9CIf
they are nut plate and corrosion has set
in getting those screws out can be difficult.=9D
Amen. And a great way to avoid that head stripping problem in the future
is to avoid using Phillips drive machine screws. Hex socket (Allen
drive) and 6 lobe (Torx drive) machine screws are vastly superior and
not just for avoiding the stripping out problem.
Every builder that has ever tried the non Phillips drive screws has
become a believer. (Bill Harrelson, the guy that flew his Lancair IV non
stop from Guam to Jax FL, recently thanked me profusely for steering him
right on machine screw drives and told me that he had built his plane
with almost no Phillips drive screws.)
You can obtain these hex socket and 6 lobe drive screws, in stainless
steel if you wish, and with aviation 100 degree countersink on the flat
heads, from Microfasteners:
http://www.microfasteners.com/
When working with these screws the proper drive tools such as a kit from
Chapman is essential:
http://www.chapmanmfg.com/
OC
'O C' Baker says "The best investment you can make is the effort to
gather and understand information."
====================
Time: 06:44:08 PM PST US
Subject: KIS-List: Re: Wing removal on a TR-1
From: "mark_trickel" <marktrickel@gmail.com>
Hey Barry,
Jerry is referring to the 6 X 6 access panels on the outboard underside
of each
wing located over the aileron bell crank. The left wing should also have
the
pilot static ports attached to it. These panels are cut into the wing
skins by
the builder and have 4 screws in the corners of each panel. There were
supposed
to be nut plates attached to the inner fiberglass layer of the laminated
wing
skin in each corner to secure the panel to the wing. Not all builders
used
nut plates, my build used plain sheet metal screws and they just do not
hold up.
I believe Jerry is saying the panel may be glued in place. You may want
to
pack two more tools a Dremel with those little gridding discs and
possibly a
few other cutting attachments, and if that dont work a jig saw to cut
out the
whole panel. Heck, its fiberglass and easy to patch up or fabricate a
new one,
but dont cut to close to the corners where the nut plates are supposed
to be
just in case they may actually be there. You wont want to be wasting too
much
time getting the cover panels off youll have you hands full getting the
wing off
and the plane loaded. It took me 4 hours to set up my trailer rigging
and get
the plane loaded and that was 2 hours more than I thought it would take.
There are other fairings on the bottom side of the fuselage you will
need to remove.
One covering the spar box opening. Two small removable leading edge
fairings
on underside of the wing. Two larger fairings that contour the wing to
the
fuselage. These should all have nut plates used to attach them but may
also
have sheet metal screws in place. If they are nut plate and corrosion
has set
in getting those screws out can be difficult. If the heads become
stripped out
the Dremel and thin griding disc deal is great to cut larger slots in
the head
for easier removal.
Richard Kindig did come to Oshkosh, maybe even more than once. I recall
he was
at one of the KIS get together dinners. It is hard for me to remember
everything
that happened but I do recall Richard K. telling us he liked building
airplanes
and was in the habit of buying derelict or unfinished projects and
finishing
them off, then enjoying them for a while, and then he'd sell them and
move
on to another project. Before he bought the KIS he previously finished
off a
Glasair. There are several post in the KIS archives by Richard K. He was
unmarried
and so he had plenty of time for airplane building. I am sure there were
other airplane projects after his KIS. I think he did finally settle
down and
get married. He is now living in one of the Virginia States, though I am
not sure
which one.
Mark T.
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Wing removal on a TR-1 |
Yes, I agree. I will definatly not use phillips heads when I attach it back on.
I have already removed those panels and most all of the screws were stripped
out.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411788#411788
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Wing removal on a TR-1 |
I echo what OC posted. My TR4 is almost completely 6 lobe Torx and this
makes a huge difference and the price difference is so small. It is a great
investment.
On Thursday, October 31, 2013, Owen Baker wrote:
> 10/31/2013
>
> Hello All KIS Builders and Maintainers, Mark Trickel wrote: =93If they ar
e
> nut plate and corrosion has set
> in getting those screws out can be difficult.=94
>
> Amen. And a great way to avoid that head stripping problem in the future
> is to avoid using Phillips drive machine screws. Hex socket (Allen drive)
> and 6 lobe (Torx drive) machine screws are vastly superior and not just f
or
> avoiding the stripping out problem.
>
> Every builder that has ever tried the non Phillips drive screws has becom
e
> a believer. (Bill Harrelson, the guy that flew his Lancair IV non stop fr
om
> Guam to Jax FL, recently thanked me profusely for steering him right on
> machine screw drives and told me that he had built his plane with almost
no
> Phillips drive screws.)
>
> You can obtain these hex socket and 6 lobe drive screws, in stainless
> steel if you wish, and with aviation 100 degree countersink on the flat
> heads, from Microfasteners:
>
> http://www.microfasteners.com/
>
> When working with these screws the proper drive tools such as a kit from
> Chapman is essential:
>
> http://www.chapmanmfg.com/
>
> OC
>
> 'O C' Baker says "The best investment you can make is the effort to gathe
r
> and understand information."
>
> ========================
=====================
>
>
> Time: 06:44:08 PM PST US
> Subject: KIS-List: Re: Wing removal on a TR-1
> From: "mark_trickel" <marktrickel@gmail.com <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',
> 'marktrickel@gmail.com');>>
>
>
> Hey Barry,
>
> Jerry is referring to the 6 X 6 access panels on the outboard underside o
f
> each
> wing located over the aileron bell crank. The left wing should also have
> the
> pilot static ports attached to it. These panels are cut into the wing
> skins by
> the builder and have 4 screws in the corners of each panel. There were
> supposed
> to be nut plates attached to the inner fiberglass layer of the laminated
> wing
> skin in each corner to secure the panel to the wing. Not all builders use
d
> nut plates, my build used plain sheet metal screws and they just do not
> hold up.
> I believe Jerry is saying the panel may be glued in place. You may want t
o
> pack two more tools a Dremel with those little gridding discs and
> possibly a
> few other cutting attachments, and if that dont work a jig saw to cut out
> the
> whole panel. Heck, its fiberglass and easy to patch up or fabricate a new
> one,
> but dont cut to close to the corners where the nut plates are supposed to
> be
> just in case they may actually be there. You wont want to be wasting too
> much
> time getting the cover panels off youll have you hands full getting the
> wing off
> and the plane loaded. It took me 4 hours to set up my trailer rigging and
> get
> the plane loaded and that was 2 hours more than I thought it would take.
>
> There are other fairings on the bottom side of the fuselage you will need
> to remove.
> One covering the spar box opening. Two small removable leading edge
> fairings
> on underside of the wing. Two larger fairings that contour the wing to th
e
> fuselage. These should all have nut plates used to attach them but may al
so
> have sheet metal screws in place. If they are nut plate and corrosion has
> set
> in getting those screws out can be difficult. If the heads become strippe
d
> out
> the Dremel and thin griding disc deal is great to cut larger slots in the
> head
> for easier removal.
>
> Richard Kindig did come to Oshkosh, maybe even more than once. I recall h
e
> was
> at one of the KIS get together dinners. It is hard for me to remember
> everything
> that happened but I do recall Richard K. telling us he liked building
> airplanes
> and was in the habit of buying derelict or unfinished projects and
> finishing
> them off, then enjoying them for a while, and then he'd sell them and mov
e
> on to another project. Before he bought the KIS he previously finished of
f
> a
> Glasair. There are several post in the KIS archives by Richard K. He was
> unmarried
> and so he had plenty of time for airplane building. I am sure there were
> other airplane projects after his KIS. I think he did finally settle down
> and
> get married. He is now living in one of the Virginia States, though I am
> not sure
> which one.
>
> Mark T.
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
Message 5
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|
Subject: | Re: Wing removal on a TR-1 |
It is just beyond my comprehension that we, in the 21st century, still use f
lat or phillips head screws for anything.
Scott
On Oct 31, 2013, at 5:59 AM, "Owen Baker " <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote:
> 10/31/2013
>
> Hello All KIS Builders and Maintainers, Mark Trickel wrote: =9CIf th
ey are nut plate and corrosion has set
> in getting those screws out can be difficult.=9D
>
> Amen. And a great way to avoid that head stripping problem in the future i
s to avoid using Phillips drive machine screws. Hex socket (Allen drive) and
6 lobe (Torx drive) machine screws are vastly superior and not just for avo
iding the stripping out problem.
>
> Every builder that has ever tried the non Phillips drive screws has become
a believer. (Bill Harrelson, the guy that flew his Lancair IV non stop from
Guam to Jax FL, recently thanked me profusely for steering him right on mac
hine screw drives and told me that he had built his plane with almost no Phi
llips drive screws.)
>
> You can obtain these hex socket and 6 lobe drive screws, in stainless stee
l if you wish, and with aviation 100 degree countersink on the flat heads, f
rom Microfasteners:
>
> http://www.microfasteners.com/
>
> When working with these screws the proper drive tools such as a kit from C
hapman is essential:
>
> http://www.chapmanmfg.com/
>
> OC
>
> 'O C' Baker says "The best investment you can make is the effort to gather
and understand information."
>
> =========================
====================
>
>
> Time: 06:44:08 PM PST US
> Subject: KIS-List: Re: Wing removal on a TR-1
> From: "mark_trickel" <marktrickel@gmail.com>
>
>
> Hey Barry,
>
> Jerry is referring to the 6 X 6 access panels on the outboard underside of
each
> wing located over the aileron bell crank. The left wing should also have t
he
> pilot static ports attached to it. These panels are cut into the wing skin
s by
> the builder and have 4 screws in the corners of each panel. There were sup
posed
> to be nut plates attached to the inner fiberglass layer of the laminated w
ing
> skin in each corner to secure the panel to the wing. Not all builders used
> nut plates, my build used plain sheet metal screws and they just do not ho
ld up.
> I believe Jerry is saying the panel may be glued in place. You may want to
> pack two more tools a Dremel with those little gridding discs and possibl
y a
> few other cutting attachments, and if that dont work a jig saw to cut out t
he
> whole panel. Heck, its fiberglass and easy to patch up or fabricate a new o
ne,
> but dont cut to close to the corners where the nut plates are supposed to b
e
> just in case they may actually be there. You wont want to be wasting too m
uch
> time getting the cover panels off youll have you hands full getting the wi
ng off
> and the plane loaded. It took me 4 hours to set up my trailer rigging and g
et
> the plane loaded and that was 2 hours more than I thought it would take.
>
> There are other fairings on the bottom side of the fuselage you will need t
o remove.
> One covering the spar box opening. Two small removable leading edge fairi
ngs
> on underside of the wing. Two larger fairings that contour the wing to the
> fuselage. These should all have nut plates used to attach them but may als
o
> have sheet metal screws in place. If they are nut plate and corrosion has s
et
> in getting those screws out can be difficult. If the heads become stripped
out
> the Dremel and thin griding disc deal is great to cut larger slots in the h
ead
> for easier removal.
>
> Richard Kindig did come to Oshkosh, maybe even more than once. I recall he
was
> at one of the KIS get together dinners. It is hard for me to remember ever
ything
> that happened but I do recall Richard K. telling us he liked building airp
lanes
> and was in the habit of buying derelict or unfinished projects and finishi
ng
> them off, then enjoying them for a while, and then he'd sell them and move
> on to another project. Before he bought the KIS he previously finished off
a
> Glasair. There are several post in the KIS archives by Richard K. He was u
nmarried
> and so he had plenty of time for airplane building. I am sure there were
> other airplane projects after his KIS. I think he did finally settle down a
nd
> get married. He is now living in one of the Virginia States, though I am n
ot sure
> which one.
>
> Mark T.
>
>
==========================
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=========
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>
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