Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:03 AM - Re: Engine mounts (Keith.Miller@esa.int)
2. 04:31 AM - IO-240 Engine Mounts (Owen Baker)
3. 08:01 AM - IO-240 B Engine mounts (Owen Baker)
4. 04:53 PM - Re: IO-240 B Engine mounts (Tim Yoder)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mounts |
OC
at what age / hours did you replace your bushings ? , is there a
recommended time for the replacement , plus is there a TCM bulletin on
this ?
Keith
From: "Owen Baker " <bakerocb@cox.net>
To: <kis-list@matronics.com>, "YODER TIM" <ftyoder@yoderbuilt.com>,
Date: 07/18/2014 06:38 AM
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Engine mounts
Sent by: owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com
7/17/2014
Hello Tim, I am surprised that you have not had to replace the vibration
isolators for your IO-240 B engine mount prior to this. These vibration
isolators are rubber or elastomeric material that hardens and sags with age.
Replacing these isolators is a bit tricky for several reasons. One reason is
that the isolators are very similar / identical to, yet in some respects,
quite different than the isolators used for the Continental O-200 engine. I
have had a Continental engineer give me false information regarding isolators
for the IO-240 B because he assumed that the parts for the O-200 and the
IO-240 B were identical in all respects, which they are not.
It would be very helpful if you have the TCM Parts Catalog Form X30623A and
can look at Figure 12-4 on page 12-8 of that manual. Ill try to give you a
description of what is on that page using the following Index Numbers from
Figure 12-4:
12-4-1 Part Number 638225. Bushing. An elastomeric tube unique to the IO-240
B (Not the same part as used in the O-200, but performs a similar function as
Hose, Part number 628555-16 which is Ref No 1 on the Aircraft Spruce page
below). Four required. Should be replaced. Expensive. Not readily available.
I can give you some purchasing source information after I get out to the
hangar on Sat. Also see below**.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/contmountparts.php
12-4-2 Part Number 530626. Seat, Engine Mount. A steel ring. Same part as
used in the O-200. Eight required. No need to replace these parts unless
damaged or lost can be used over and over. See Ref No 3 on the above
Aircraft Spruce page:
12-4-3 Part Number 530740. Bushing, Engine Mount. An elastomeric cone. Same
part as used on the O-200. Eight Required. Should be replaced. Available from
Spruce. See Ref No 4 on the above Aircraft Spruce page:
12-4-4 Part Number 530741. Washer, Cup. A cup shaped steel washer. Same part
as used on the O-200. Eight required. No need to replace these parts unless
damaged or lost can be used over and over. Available from Spruce. See Ref
No 5 on the above Aircraft Spruce page:
12-4-5 Part Number 653695. Spacer, Engine Mount. A steel tube. I dont know
how this part for the IO-240 B compares to Part Number 530627 for the O-200,
but it performs the same function. (See Ref No 2 on the Aircraft Spruce page
above). Four required. No need to replace these parts unless damaged or lost
can be used over and over.
If the above appears confusing I apologize and blame TCM for mucking this up.
Please pay careful attention in order to avoid getting the wrong parts. Ill
write a few words about installation in a separate email.
OC
'O C' Baker says "The best investment you can make is the effort to gather
and understand information."
**PS: Here are some sources I might have a better source at my hangar:
http://www.aircraft-specialties.com/bushing-638225/
http://www.airpowerinc.com/productcart/pc/prodpartsV.asp?searchquery=638225&submit=Search&catID=6&mfgID=TC&subcat=0
http://www.skygeek.com/continental-motors-638225-bushing.html
==========================
From: Tim Yoder
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2014 6:25 PM
Subject: KIS-List: Engine mounts
My Cont. IO-240 B Engine mounts are 16 years old and need to be replaced.
They are conical, of course. What are the ones I need and does anyone have
the instillation instructions, torque?
Thanks,
Tim
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Message 2
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| Subject: | IO-240 Engine Mounts |
7/18/2014
Hello Keith, You wrote:
1) "at what age / hours did you replace your bushings ?"
Not sure, maybe 300 hours and 6 years. I think that chronological age of the
elastomeric material in engine vibration isolators is more relevant than
engine hours when it comes to the material hardening (increased vibration
felt) or sagging.
2) "is there a recommended time for the replacement , plus is there a TCM
bulletin on
this ?"
Negative to both. TCM did not cover themselves with glory on this subject.
Driving consideration for me was sagging of the engine so that the rear edge
of the spinner was no longer parallel to the front of the engine cowling.
OC
=========================================================
From: Keith.Miller@esa.int
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2014 3:03 AM
Subject: Re: KIS-List: Engine mounts
OC
at what age / hours did you replace your bushings ? , is there a
recommended time for the replacement , plus is there a TCM bulletin on
this ?
Keith
Message 3
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| Subject: | IO-240 B Engine mounts |
7/18/2014
Hello Again Tim, You wrote: ... does anyone have the instillation
instructions....
There are no such official instructions that I am aware of, but I will pass
on a few tips based on my experience:
1) To repeat, here are the part numbers and quantities that you will need
for complete replacement of all elastomeric vibration isolators parts for an
IO-240 B engine:
a) P/N 638225 Bushing. Unique to IO-240 A and B. Four required. I last
bought these from Dart Aircraft Parts in 2008. List price was $52.34, my
cost was $28.79. See here:
http://www.dartaircraft.com/
kmuellner@dartaircraft.com
b) P/N 530740 Bushing, Engine Mount. Same part number as for O-200. Eight
Required. Available from Aircraft Spruce. See here:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/contmountparts.php?clickkey=11688
2) You can support the engine with an engine hoist or crane while working on
replacing the vibration isolators. See here:
http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/shop-cranes/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-69512.html
3) You may also use a bottle jack on the flat plate on the lower front of
the crankcase. Suggest making a pad out of 3/4 inch thick plywood that just
fits onto that plate and has a recess on the bottom of the pad for the top
of the bottle jack. Dont want the jack to slip and damage the crankcase.
4) You may also be able to work on replacing the isolators on one mount at a
time without supporting the engine and loosening the other mounting bolts,
but that is difficult to do.
5) Expect that the old isolators P/N 638225 may be stuck in the crankcase
recesses and that you may have to gouge them out and clean out the debris
from the crankcase recesses.
6) Plan on using a bit of silicone spray to slide the new P/N's 638225 into
the recesses.
7) If the engine is not perfectly lined up you may have difficulty in
getting the mounting bolt all the way through the stack of bushings and
washers. You can make a bullet shaped short lead guide from a piece of
hardware store .375 (3/8) inch diameter bolt to assist in the line up and
inserting of the mounting bolt. (Somebody on the internet is selling such a
guide for that exact purpose, but I can not find it now.)
8) When replacing some, but not all, of the elastomers in my engine the
first time around did not initially raise the engine front end back up to
the point that I wanted I cheated a bit and ground a bit off the ends of the
two top P/N 653695 Spacers, Engine Mount. This squashed the top elastomers a
bit more than the design called for when bolted in place with a bit shorter
bolts, but it worked fine.
I have since replaced all parts with factory designed parts, but the next
time my engine sags a bit I am going to reinstall those shortened P/N 653695
spacers for an interim quick and easy fix rather than replace all of the
elastomers (it is not an easy chore). I figure that this trick eliminates
engine sag and gets close to double the life that I get out of a set of
elastomers before needing total replacement.
9) ".... torque?...."
Just tighten the mounting bolts until the stack bottoms out on the P/N
653695 spacer. Don't forget the cotter pin or use AN363-624 metal stop nuts
instead. See here:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an363.php?clickkey=51378
Please let me know if you have any questions or problems.
OC
============================================================================
From: Tim Yoder
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2014 6:25 PM
Subject: KIS-List: Engine mounts
My Cont. IO-240 B Engine mounts are 16 years old and need to be replaced.
They are conical, of course. What are the ones I need and does anyone have
the instillation instructions, torque?
Thanks,
Tim
Message 4
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| Subject: | IO-240 B Engine mounts |
Hi OC,
This is very helpful and very much appreciated.
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Owen Baker
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2014 8:01 AM
Subject: KIS-List: IO-240 B Engine mounts
7/18/2014
Hello Again Tim, You wrote: "... does anyone have the instillation
instructions...."
There are no such official instructions that I am aware of, but I will pass
on a few tips based on my experience:
1) To repeat, here are the part numbers and quantities that you will need
for complete replacement of all elastomeric vibration isolators parts for an
IO-240 B engine:
a) P/N 638225 Bushing. Unique to IO-240 A and B. Four required. I last
bought these from Dart Aircraft Parts in 2008. List price was $52.34, my
cost was $28.79. See here:
http://www.dartaircraft.com/
kmuellner@dartaircraft.com
b) P/N 530740 Bushing, Engine Mount. Same part number as for O-200. Eight
Required. Available from Aircraft Spruce. See here:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/contmountparts.php?clickkey=11
688
2) You can support the engine with an engine hoist or crane while working on
replacing the vibration isolators. See here:
http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/shop-cranes/1-ton-capacit
y-foldable-shop-crane-69512.html
3) You may also use a bottle jack on the flat plate on the lower front of
the crankcase. Suggest making a pad out of 3/4 inch thick plywood that just
fits onto that plate and has a recess on the bottom of the pad for the top
of the bottle jack. Don't want the jack to slip and damage the crankcase.
4) You may also be able to work on replacing the isolators on one mount at a
time without supporting the engine and loosening the other mounting bolts,
but that is difficult to do.
5) Expect that the old isolators P/N 638225 may be stuck in the crankcase
recesses and that you may have to gouge them out and clean out the debris
from the crankcase recesses.
6) Plan on using a bit of silicone spray to slide the new P/N's 638225 into
the recesses.
7) If the engine is not perfectly lined up you may have difficulty in
getting the mounting bolt all the way through the stack of bushings and
washers. You can make a bullet shaped short lead guide from a piece of
hardware store .375 (3/8) inch diameter bolt to assist in the line up and
inserting of the mounting bolt. (Somebody on the internet is selling such a
guide for that exact purpose, but I can not find it now.)
8) When replacing some, but not all, of the elastomers in my engine the
first time around did not initially raise the engine front end back up to
the point that I wanted I cheated a bit and ground a bit off the ends of the
two top P/N 653695 Spacers, Engine Mount. This squashed the top elastomers a
bit more than the design called for when bolted in place with a bit shorter
bolts, but it worked fine.
I have since replaced all parts with factory designed parts, but the next
time my engine sags a bit I am going to reinstall those shortened P/N 653695
spacers for an interim quick and easy fix rather than replace all of the
elastomers (it is not an easy chore). I figure that this trick eliminates
engine sag and gets close to double the life that I get out of a set of
elastomers before needing total replacement.
9) ".... torque?...."
Just tighten the mounting bolts until the stack bottoms out on the P/N
653695 spacer. Don't forget the cotter pin or use AN363-624 metal stop nuts
instead. See here:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an363.php?clickkey=51378
Please let me know if you have any questions or problems.
OC
===========================================================================
From: Tim Yoder
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2014 6:25 PM
Subject: KIS-List: Engine mounts
My Cont. IO-240 B Engine mounts are 16 years old and need to be replaced.
They are conical, of course. What are the ones I need and does anyone have
the instillation instructions, torque?
Thanks,
Tim
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