KIS-List Digest Archive

Sat 05/09/15


Total Messages Posted: 3



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:26 AM - TR-1 gear (Owen Baker)
     2. 06:42 AM - Re: TR-1 gear (Alfred Rosa)
     3. 06:45 AM -  (Alfred Rosa)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:26:43 AM PST US
    From: "Owen Baker " <bakerocb@cox.net>
    Subject: TR-1 gear
    5/9/2015 Hello Galin, You wrote: 1) So if I read this right you don't have any plate (radius or non radius) between the top of the landing gear cross bar and the landing gear flox bed, just the elastomeric sheet. That is correct, just the elastomeric sheet. I was attempting to comply with the following extract from PAGE FUS 3 - 11, dated November 6, 1992, of the KIS TR-1 Builders Manual:** It is recommended that a thin layer of rubber sheeting (inner tube rubber or similar) be lightly tacked to the upper mating surface of the landing gear to avoid local concentrated loading of the composite. Apply a thin layer of a thick mixture of FLOX to the rubber covered upper surface of the gear, and apply added flox on the recessed surface around any shims which may have been added to the recess area. Lightly torque the bolts holding the gear in place, and correct any positioning before the FLOX cures. Clean away surplus FLOX before it becomes fully cured. The FLOX will provide a uniform bedding for the gear, filling curvature and voids. The rubber should provide for ease in separation of the gear from the recess, as well as providing cushioning against the destructive effects of point loads into the composite. If there are too many voids in the FLOX covered areas, the process of coating the surface with FLOX can be repeated concentrating on void areas, and squeezing out surplus FLOX."## 2) "What did you use on the bottom of the landing gear cross bar?" Just the two steel retaining straps provided with my kit. The straps are plain flat bars about one inch wide and 1/4 inch thick. Here is an extract from the same page as above: "Drill a matching set of 5/16-inch holes in the steel (4130) retaining straps, and countersink to set the bolt heads flush with the surface. Using the large bearing washers provided in the kit on the inner fuselage side of the mounting holes, and MS 24694-S 178 bolts, trial assemble the gear legs to the fuselage (use minimum torque on the nuts to close up gaps but not deflect structure). Check that the assembly is square to the aircraft centerline, the legs are level on each side, and the axle centerline will be located at STA 73.5. Use thin wood shims tacked in place with 5-minute epoxy to correct any noted misalignment." I used AN5 bolts with no countersinking. It is a pretty crude looking installation, just like some piece of farm machinery. OC **PS: With a nod of deep appreciation to the person that provided a copy of the manual on a CD. Hans Christian Erstad / Hartley Heaton ???? ##PS: Here is probably where Jesse Wright got this idea: "I don't know where I got this idea but I bought a truck inter-tube and cut the size I needed and put that between the gear and the fuselage." ====================================================== From: Galin Hernandez Sent: Friday, May 08, 2015 5:34 PM Subject: Re: KIS-List: Re: TR-1 gear EXCELLENT info OC. So if I read this right you don't have any plate (radius or non radius) between the top of the landing gear cross bar and the landing gear flox bed, just the elastomeric sheet. What did you use on the bottom of the landing gear cross bar?


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:42:08 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: TR-1 gear
    From: Alfred Rosa <fredorosa@gmail.com>
    Galin, OC's method follows the manual instructions for the TR1. I'm not sure what the manual says about the TR 4. I insisted on Grove landing gear components with my kit because people were dissatisfied with the performance of the supplied Matco brakes. I recommend using the Grove radius blocks. I put about 12 layers of glass Between the fuselage and the blocks at each attach point to spread out the shock and strengthen the attach points. In the cabin I also put about 12 layers of glass where the bolts come through. The nuts are tightened down on a fender washer against a thick rubber washer to absorb some shock. See picture in following message. > On May 9, 2015, at 8:26 AM, "Owen Baker " <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote: > > > 5/9/2015 > > Hello Galin, You wrote: > > 1) So if I read this right you don't have any plate (radius or non radius) between the top of the landing gear cross bar and the landing gear flox bed, just the elastomeric sheet. > > That is correct, just the elastomeric sheet. I was attempting to comply with the following extract from PAGE FUS 3 - 11, dated November 6, 1992, of the KIS TR-1 Builders Manual:** > > It is recommended that a thin layer of rubber sheeting (inner tube rubber or similar) be lightly tacked to the upper mating surface of the landing gear to avoid local concentrated loading of the composite. Apply a thin layer of a thick mixture of FLOX to the rubber covered upper surface of the gear, and apply added flox on the recessed surface around any shims which may have been added to the recess area. Lightly torque the bolts holding the gear in place, and correct any positioning before the FLOX cures. Clean away surplus FLOX before it becomes fully cured. The FLOX will provide a uniform bedding for the gear, filling curvature and voids. The rubber should provide for ease in separation of the gear from the recess, as well as providing cushioning against the destructive effects of point loads into the composite. If there are too many voids in the FLOX covered areas, the process of coating the surface with FLOX can be repeated concentrating on void areas, and squeezing out surplus FLOX."## > > 2) "What did you use on the bottom of the landing gear cross bar?" > > Just the two steel retaining straps provided with my kit. The straps are plain flat bars about one inch wide and 1/4 inch thick. Here is an extract from the same page as above: > > "Drill a matching set of 5/16-inch holes in the steel (4130) retaining straps, and countersink to set the bolt heads flush with the surface. Using the large bearing washers provided in the kit on the inner fuselage side of the mounting holes, and MS 24694-S 178 bolts, trial assemble the gear legs to the fuselage (use minimum torque on the nuts to close up gaps but not deflect structure). Check that the assembly is square to the aircraft centerline, the legs are level on each side, and the axle centerline will be located at STA 73.5. Use thin wood shims tacked in place with 5-minute epoxy to correct any noted misalignment." > > I used AN5 bolts with no countersinking. It is a pretty crude looking installation, just like some piece of farm machinery. > > OC > > **PS: With a nod of deep appreciation to the person that provided a copy of the manual on a CD. Hans Christian Erstad / Hartley Heaton ???? > > ##PS: Here is probably where Jesse Wright got this idea: "I don't know where I got this idea but I bought a truck inter-tube and cut > the size I needed and put that between the gear and the fuselage." > > ====================================================== > > From: Galin Hernandez > Sent: Friday, May 08, 2015 5:34 PM > To: kis-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: KIS-List: Re: TR-1 gear > > EXCELLENT info OC. So if I read this right you don't have any plate (radius or non radius) between the top of the landing gear cross bar and the landing gear flox bed, just the elastomeric sheet. What did you use on the bottom of the landing gear cross bar? > > > > > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:45:14 AM PST US
    From: Alfred Rosa <fredorosa@gmail.com>
    Sent from my iPhone <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier"> </b></font></pre></body></html>




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