KIS-List Digest Archive

Fri 11/20/15


Total Messages Posted: 4



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     0. 09:17 AM - Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... (Matt Dralle)
     1. 02:58 PM - Main Gear Attach Bolt Torque (Galin Hernandez)
     2. 05:56 PM - Re: Main Gear Attach Bolt Torque (Jesse Wright)
     3. 06:02 PM - Re: Main Gear Attach Bolt Torque (Jesse Wright)
 
 
 


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    Time: 09:17:19 AM PST US
    From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
    Subject: Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists...
    Dear Listers, Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution too! The Contribution Site is fast and easy: http://www.matronics.com/contribution or by dropping a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 Thank you! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List Administrator


    Message 1


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    Time: 02:58:08 PM PST US
    From: Galin Hernandez <galinhdz@gmail.com>
    Subject: Main Gear Attach Bolt Torque
    I finally have the main gear attach point repairs completed and am bolting everything together. However I can't find what I should torque the bolts to. I know AN7 bolts are torqued to a maximum of 50 ft/lb but that is maximum. The attach points have 20 plies of glass, 2 plies of carbon, the rubber pads and a 3/16" steel plate along with the aluminum saddle. Any recommendations on how many ft/lbs of torque I should apply?


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:56:23 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Main Gear Attach Bolt Torque
    From: Jesse Wright <flyinisfun90@gmail.com>
    Galin, Before you torque any of those bolds, be sure you have filled all the space inside the wing spar box. Any torching on these bolts you want to keep in mind that you are pulling against fiberglass so the number will not be anywhere close to what it would be if it were metal. To fill the gap inside the box, I made some washer with handles. The handles were about about 4 inches long cut out of 3/16 aluminum material to shove up in the wing box to fill the gap. The handles were so I could shove then up in place until I could push the bolt through. Don't worry about the handles, just turn them side ways, out of the way when the bolts are tightened. My wing took about 4 for each side of the fuselage, two in front of the wing spar and 2 in the rear of the wing spar. Leave plenty of face on the washer surface so you can apply a little pressure on the torque and not pull then into the box material. The torque I used on my was -- snug the nut to the material and about a half turn more. Remember, bolts go in from the front with either castle nuts or elastic nuts. I used elastic nuts on mine. Also don't overlook the 1/4 gap spacing on the top of the spar, between the spar and the fuselage box. Good cruising. I'm sure others will have thoughts on this. Jesse


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:02:13 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Main Gear Attach Bolt Torque
    From: Jesse Wright <flyinisfun90@gmail.com>
    Galin, Before you torque any of those bolds, be sure you have filled all the space inside the wing spar box. Any torching on these bolts you want to keep in mind that you are pulling against fiberglass so the number will not be anywhere close to what it would be if it were metal. To fill the gap inside the box, I made some washer with handles. The handles were about about 4 inches long cut out of 3/16 aluminum material to shove up in the wing box to fill the gap. The handles were so I could shove then up in place until I could push the bolt through. Don't worry about the handles, just turn them side ways, out of the way when the bolts are tightened. My wing took about 4 for each side of the fuselage, two in front of the wing spar and 2 in the rear of the wing spar. Leave plenty of face on the washer surface so you can apply a little pressure on the torque and not pull then into the box material. The torque I used on my was -- snug the nut to the material and about a half turn more. Remember, bolts go in from the front with either castle nuts or elastic nuts. I used elastic nuts on mine. Also don't overlook the 1/4 gap spacing on the top of the spar, between the spar and the fuselage box. Good cruising. I'm sure others will have thoughts on this as well. On Fri, Nov 20, 2015 at 6:56 PM, Jesse Wright <flyinisfun90@gmail.com> wrote: > Galin, > > Before you torque any of those bolds, be sure you have filled all the > space inside the wing spar box. Any torching on these bolts you want to > keep in mind that you are pulling against fiberglass so the number will not > be anywhere close to what it would be if it were metal. To fill the gap > inside the box, I made some washer with handles. The handles were about > about 4 inches long cut out of 3/16 aluminum material to shove up in the > wing box to fill the gap. The handles were so I could shove then up in > place until I could push the bolt through. Don't worry about the handles, > just turn them side ways, out of the way when the bolts are tightened. My > wing took about 4 for each side of the fuselage, two in front of the wing > spar and 2 in the rear of the wing spar. Leave plenty of face on the > washer surface so you can apply a little pressure on the torque and not > pull then into the box material. The torque I used on my was -- snug the > nut to the material and about a half turn more. Remember, bolts go in from > the front with either castle nuts or elastic nuts. I used elastic nuts on > mine. Also don't overlook the 1/4 gap spacing on the top of the spar, > between the spar and the fuselage box. Good cruising. I'm sure others will > have thoughts on this. > > Jesse > >




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