KIS-List Digest Archive

Sun 08/21/16


Total Messages Posted: 13



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:47 AM - Removing rubber like film from windscreen  (Robert Reed)
     2. 06:26 AM - Fw: Belleville Washers and IO-240 Oil Drain Plug (Galin Hernandez)
     3. 08:17 AM - Re: Removing rubber like film from windscreen (Alfred Rosa)
     4. 08:51 AM - Re: Removing rubber like film from windscreen (Galin Hernandez)
     5. 11:32 AM - Re: Removing rubber like film from windscreen  (Tim Yoder)
     6. 01:11 PM - Re: Removing rubber like film from windscreen (M Ketteing)
     7. 09:07 PM - Re: Removing rubber like film from windscreen (Ed Hanson)
     8. 09:53 PM - Front Axle Modification Part 1 (mike@vision499.com)
     9. 09:53 PM - Front Axle Modification Part 2 (mike@vision499.com)
    10. 09:53 PM - Front Axle Modification Part 3 (mike@vision499.com)
    11. 10:05 PM - Front Axle Modification Part 1 (mike@vision499.com)
    12. 10:07 PM - Front Axle Modification Part 1 b (mike@vision499.com)
    13. 10:15 PM - Front Axle Modification e-mail problem (mike@vision499.com)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:47:46 AM PST US
    From: Robert Reed <robertr237@att.net>
    Subject: Removing rubber like film from windscreen
    For those of you who had the rubber like clear protection on your windscreen is there a secret to getting it off besides hours of peeling or attempting to scrape with finger nails? My hands are starting to rebel and threatening to choke me if I don't find a better way. PS: Finally, after all this time and two failed attempts all the main parts have been painted. Bob Reed Sent from my iPhone


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:26:04 AM PST US
    From: Galin Hernandez <galinhdz@gmail.com>
    Subject: Fwd: Belleville Washers and IO-240 Oil Drain Plug
    ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Galin Hernandez <galinhdz@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Belleville Washers and IO-240 Oil Drain Plug OC *1 - Do you have any recommendations regarding tightening torque on the nut, force of pull on tail of wheel pant, or any other numerical measuring criteria for setting the friction level?* I use a cheap fish weighing scale ( https://www.walmart.com/ip/ DIAL-SCALE/36563210 ) and attach it to the rear of the nose wheel fork to measure how much force of pull is needed to move the wheel. I very lightly grease the inside of the fork with Aeroshell 33 ( https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/aeroshellgrease.php ) grease. Be very careful you do not get any grease on the washers, between the aluminum shoe and the washers or the aluminum shoe and the top of the nose gear tube. This WILL cause severe nose gear shimmy when you land, trust me on this one. I have also used Aeroshell 5 grease with no problem Rich told me to adjust the friction so it takes 27lbs of pull before the fork starts to move. He told me that the minimum is 20lbs, but no more than 35lbs. Do the pull with the cotter pin installed on the bottom castle nut but don't bend it yet. After you are satisfied you have between 20 - 35lbs, then bend the cotter pin to set the final value. This is a critical value, especially the 20lb minimum. This method has worked well for me. Rich also gave me a copy of the Castoring Nose Wheel Supplement (I added some of my notes to the file) and I separately made up a Nose Wheel Assembly Detail supplement. I have attached them both in case you don't have copies. *2 - Did you protect the bottom of the aluminum shoe with a nylon or metal washer to keep the Belleville washers from wearing away the aluminum?* Rich never mentioned anything like this, I did not even think about doing this but in hindsight it sounds like a good idea. The top of the fork is also rubbing on the steel nose gear tube so it will also be wearing. I just wonder how this would affect the nose wheel tension value. This is a good question to ask the forum and see what others have done. I hope this info helps. On Sat, Aug 20, 2016 at 10:32 PM, Owen Baker <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote: > 8/20/2016 > > Hello Galin, Got it --- many thanks!! > > Do you have any recommendations regarding tightening torque on the nut, > force of pull on tail of wheel pant, or any other numerical measuring > criteria for setting the friction level? > > Thanks, > > OC > > PS: Did you protect the bottom of the aluminum shoe with a nylon or metal > washer to keep the Belleville washers from wearing away the aluminum? > > ============================================== > > *From:* Galin Hernandez <galinhdz@gmail.com> > *Sent:* Saturday, August 20, 2016 9:45 PM > *To:* Owen Baker <bakerocb@cox.net> > *Subject:* Re: Belleville Washers and IO-240 Oil Drain Plug > > I used 4 washers in a "series/parallel" configuration. 2 of them together > as a set with the large (outside) area of each pair against each other. I > have attached a drawing of how I did it. > > On Sat, Aug 20, 2016 at 10:13 AM, Owen Baker <bakerocb@cox.net> wrote: > >> 8/20/2016 >> >> Hello Galin, Many thanks for the info. I am in the process of locating >> the washers in the >> Fastenal system. >> >> Can you please tell me how many washers you used and how they were >> stacked? >> >> Thanks, >> >> OC >> >> ============================================== >> >> >> Time: 04:16:32 PM PST US >> From: Galin Hernandez <galinhdz@gmail.com> >> Subject: Re: KIS-List: Belleville Washers and IO-240 Oil Drain Plug >> >> OC, The nose wheel on my TR-4 also uses 3/4" ID Belleville washers. As far >> as I remember the FASTENAL SKU is 33358 with a UNSPSC number of 31161825 >> and I have had no issues with them. I hope this helps. >> >> www.fastenal.com >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:17:51 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Removing rubber like film from windscreen
    From: Alfred Rosa <fredorosa@gmail.com>
    Bob I have found using Goo Gone on the windows to remove stubborn substances works and doesn't harm the plexiglass. Wipe with clean microfiber cloths to avoid scratches. It works"believe me"as Trump would say. Al Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 21, 2016, at 8:34 AM, Robert Reed <robertr237@att.net> wrote: > > > For those of you who had the rubber like clear protection on your windscreen is there a secret to getting it off besides hours of peeling or attempting to scrape with finger nails? My hands are starting to rebel and threatening to choke me if I don't find a better way. > > PS: Finally, after all this time and two failed attempts all the main parts have been painted. > > Bob Reed > Sent from my iPhone > > > > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:51:39 AM PST US
    From: Galin Hernandez <galinhdz@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Removing rubber like film from windscreen
    Goo Gone is excellent for removing adhesive. Leave the Goo Gone on the material for at least 2hrs (I left it on overnight) so it completely penetrates and dissolves the adhesive. After that it just slides right off with no effort. On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 11:08 AM, Alfred Rosa <fredorosa@gmail.com> wrote: > > Bob > I have found using Goo Gone on the windows to remove stubborn substances > works and doesn't harm the plexiglass. Wipe with clean microfiber cloths > to avoid scratches. > It works"believe me"as Trump would say. > > Al > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Aug 21, 2016, at 8:34 AM, Robert Reed <robertr237@att.net> wrote: > > > > > > For those of you who had the rubber like clear protection on your > windscreen is there a secret to getting it off besides hours of peeling or > attempting to scrape with finger nails? My hands are starting to rebel and > threatening to choke me if I don't find a better way. > > > > PS: Finally, after all this time and two failed attempts all the main > parts have been painted. > > > > Bob Reed > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 11:32:25 AM PST US
    From: "Tim Yoder" <ftyoder@yoderbuilt.com>
    Subject: Removing rubber like film from windscreen
    Put 2 or 3 more coats of Spraylat on so that it is thick enough to peal off. Works good! Use duct tape, make sure you start it where there is no coating so it can have an edge to start the pealing. Tim -----Original Message----- From: owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kis-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Reed Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2016 5:35 AM Subject: KIS-List: Removing rubber like film from windscreen For those of you who had the rubber like clear protection on your windscreen is there a secret to getting it off besides hours of peeling or attempting to scrape with finger nails? My hands are starting to rebel and threatening to choke me if I don't find a better way. PS: Finally, after all this time and two failed attempts all the main parts have been painted. Bob Reed Sent from my iPhone --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus


    Message 6


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    Time: 01:11:06 PM PST US
    From: M Ketteing <aeromomentum@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Removing rubber like film from windscreen
    Just like with your reference, I don&#39;t believe! I prefer facts and data. Gone is not really safe for acrylic. Even if you don&#39;t see the effects right away it will haze the acrylic over time.


    Message 7


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    Time: 09:07:15 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Removing rubber like film from windscreen
    From: Ed Hanson <hansoncp@netnitco.net>
    We use a little toluene available in a hardware store paint department. Suggested by a long time A&P on the field. I would then go over the area with a quality acrylic cleaner. Sent from my iPad > On Aug 21, 2016, at 7:34 AM, Robert Reed <robertr237@att.net> wrote: > > > For those of you who had the rubber like clear protection on your windscreen is there a secret to getting it off besides hours of peeling or attempting to scrape with finger nails? My hands are starting to rebel and threatening to choke me if I don't find a better way. > > PS: Finally, after all this time and two failed attempts all the main parts have been painted. > > Bob Reed > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 09:53:25 PM PST US
    Subject: Front Axle Modification Part 1
    From: mike@vision499.com
    I have modified my front axle as illustrated by the attached photo's. The e-mail is sent in 3 parts with 2 photo's per e-mail as I was not sure how many attachments I could send. The first photo shows the modified axle, I welded the Spacer provided with the kit to the 3/4 inch dia. axle and welded a tab to the spacer. The tab will be bolted to the right fork to prevent the axle turning on the bolt that goes through the axle. I cut a thick slice from the other spacer to center the wheel on the axle. The other side of the axle is threaded to take a nut that will tension the bearing, I bought a 3/4 inch die to cut the thread. Photo 2 shows the nut and locating barrel. I could not get a castellated 3/4 inch nut locally so filed notches into a standard nut to make my own. An advantage of this technique is that I now have 12 adjustments instead of the 6 that a normal castellated nut would provide. From a section of thick walled 3/4 inch ID tube I made a barrel with a pin that would lock into the grooves on the nut. Continued in next e-mail


    Message 9


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    Time: 09:53:26 PM PST US
    Subject: Front Axle Modification Part 2
    From: mike@vision499.com
    Part 2 of front axle modification. Photo 3 shows a tab silver soldered to the barrel that locks the castellated nut. This tab will be bolted to the left front fork and prevent the castellated nut from moving. Photo 4 shows the test fit of the nut and locking barrel on the wheel assembled on the axle. Continued in part 3


    Message 10


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    Time: 09:53:53 PM PST US
    Subject: Front Axle Modification Part 3
    From: mike@vision499.com
    Front axle modification part 3 Photo 5 shows the left fork with the tab preventing the nut from moving bolted to the left fork Photo 6 shows the right fork with the tab preventing the axle from rotating bolted to the right fork. Thanks Mike


    Message 11


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    Time: 10:05:49 PM PST US
    Subject: Front Axle Modification Part 1
    From: mike@vision499.com
    I have modified my front axle as illustrated by the attached photo's. The e-mail is sent in 5 parts as I was not sure how many attachments I could send. The first photo shows the modified axle, I welded the Spacer provided with the kit to the 3/4 inch dia. axle and welded a tab to the spacer. The tab will be bolted to the right fork to prevent the axle turning on the bolt that goes through the axle. I cut a thick slice from the other spacer to center the wheel on the axle. The other side of the axle is threaded to take a nut that will tension the bearing, I bought a 3/4 inch die to cut the thread. Continued in next e-mail


    Message 12


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    Time: 10:07:48 PM PST US
    Subject: Front Axle Modification Part 1 b
    From: mike@vision499.com
    Continuation of part 1 Photo 2 shows the nut and locating barrel. I could not get a castellated 3/4 inch nut locally so filed notches into a standard nut to make my own. An advantage of this technique is that I now have 12 adjustments instead of the 6 that a normal castellated nut would provide. From a section of thick walled 3/4 inch ID tube I made a barrel with a pin that would lock into the grooves on the nut.


    Message 13


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    Time: 10:15:18 PM PST US
    Subject: Front Axle Modification e-mail problem
    From: mike@vision499.com
    Hello I have sent out an e-mail in 3 parts detailing my front axle modification but have received a message back that it could not be delivered yet they arrived in my inbox. Please let me know if the e-mails went through Thanks Mike




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