Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:27 AM - Re: Fiberglass repair (Bob Unternaehrer)
2. 04:27 AM - Replys (Bob Unternaehrer)
3. 04:27 AM - Cowling Layup (Bob Unternaehrer)
4. 05:29 AM - Re: Fiberglass repair (Gary Algate)
5. 05:33 AM - Key start o-200 (Francisco J Ocampo)
6. 05:35 AM - Re: Replys (michel)
7. 06:25 AM - Re: Model 5 Wheel Width (Tom Jones)
8. 06:35 AM - Re: Fiberglass repair (michel)
9. 06:51 AM - Archives (Ron Carroll)
10. 06:55 AM - Re: Fiberglass repair (Gary Algate)
11. 07:06 AM - Re: Archives (Gary Algate)
12. 07:06 AM - Re: Rudder Trim (Lowell Fitt)
13. 07:10 AM - Re: Fiberglass repair (Lowell Fitt)
14. 07:11 AM - Re: Replys (Ron Carroll)
15. 07:31 AM - Re: Archives (Don Pearsall)
16. 07:37 AM - Re: Fiberglass repair (michel)
17. 07:51 AM - Re: Archives (Ron Carroll)
18. 08:10 AM - Re: panel maker (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
19. 08:53 AM - Re: Replacing engine mount isolator bushings (Roger Standley)
20. 09:50 AM - Re: Replys (Paul A. Franz, P.E.)
21. 09:56 AM - Re: Archives (Matt Dralle)
22. 10:01 AM - Re: Fiberglass repair (Michel Verheughe)
23. 10:03 AM - Re: Replys (Bruce Harrington)
24. 11:13 AM - Fuel flow indicator system (dmorisse)
25. 11:38 AM - Re: Fuel flow indicator system (Gary Algate)
26. 12:52 PM - Re: Fiberglass repair (kerrjohna@comcast.net)
27. 12:57 PM - Re: Jab engine (Lowell Fitt)
28. 01:28 PM - Re: panel maker (Howard Firm)
29. 01:32 PM - Re: Fuel flow indicator system (Torgeir Mortensen)
30. 01:34 PM - Re: Replys (Randy Daughenbaugh)
31. 02:15 PM - Re: Fuel flow indicator system (dmorisse)
32. 02:22 PM - Re: panel maker (W Duke)
33. 02:29 PM - KF plans (Michel Gordillo)
34. 02:40 PM - Re: Fuel flow indicator system (Michel Verheughe)
35. 03:01 PM - Re: Replys (Kitfox)
36. 04:24 PM - Re: Fiberglass repair (Wwillyard@aol.com)
37. 05:15 PM - Re: Jab engine (DC91840@aol.com)
38. 05:27 PM - Re: Fiberglass repair (owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com)
39. 05:29 PM - Re: Replys (Bob Unternaehrer)
40. 05:33 PM - Re: Fuel flow indicator system (Torgeir Mortensen)
41. 05:39 PM - Grove landing gear (Jack Seaford)
42. 05:40 PM - Re: Jab engine (Steve Gandy)
43. 05:49 PM - Re: Replacing engine mount isolator bushings (Roger Standley)
44. 07:10 PM - Re: Model 5 Wheel Width (Jim Corner)
45. 08:02 PM - Re: Model 5 Wheel Width (Jeff Smathers)
46. 08:31 PM - Re: Model 5 Wheel Width (Jim Corner)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass repair |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilocom@c-magic.com>
I don't believe that what you put fiberglass on has anything to do with
whether it sets up or not. Polyester resin uses small amounts of hardner
and curing is sensitive to the amount of hardner. Polyesters bonding
properties, and strengths are not nearly as good as Epoxy,,, but it does set
up faster with the proper amount of hardner... It seems to me that past post
on this site by KitFox indicated that the tanks were POLYESTER, or
VynlESTER, can't remember which,,, Thus the problem with AutoFuel attacking
them and requiring the slosh. I Often considered trying to remove the Kreem
and sloshing the tanks or Putting a coat of Epoxy Resin on the inside.
Haven't decided yet.. Bob U.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Wwillyard@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fiberglass repair
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Wwillyard@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 12/1/2003 5:46:15 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com writes:
> Hello list members,
>
> Three weeks ago I had a ground loop and some things
> got damaged. I have to repair the wing tip and the
> cowling bottom. Does somebody know if the fiber glass
> in those elements are made with epoxic or acrylic
> resin?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
>
> Francisco Icaza
> I tried to fill external pits on the '94 vintage fuel tanks on my Classic
IV
> with some polyester resin given to me, it would not cure, indicating that
the
> tanks were made of epoxy resin. As a result I have used epoxy on the
> remaining fiberglass components with no problem.
>
> Bill Willyard
> Classic IV, 912
>
>
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
>
>
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
Message 2
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilocom@c-magic.com>
I notice that some peoples "replys" are at the bottom of or after the text that
they are replying to and some, like mine, are at the top of the reply.. I think
the ones at the top save time scanning through several replys to get down to
the new message, often finding there is NO reply at all.. I haven't been able
to determine what sets where the replly is located... I use the standard Microsoft
mail client, but wonder if the reason others replys are located different
is because they are using another client or is it "settable" someplace I can't
find... I think it would be a good Idea if the list administrators would suggest
some presidence for repl y location... Others may think it's "none of their
bussiness" The other thing that is sometimes irratating is people replying
to "old subject" messages with a completely different subject.... It's been
covered here before, but please take the time to "change the subject line" for
your reply if it you are changing the subject.. Some of us group our emails
by "subject"
Blue Skies
Bob Unternaehrer
shilocom@c-magic.com
Message 3
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilocom@c-magic.com>
Do we have anyknowledgeable tecks on the subject of building cowlings that would
be willing to talk to me on the phone,,,on my nickle...about the subject?
Blue Skies
Bob Unternaehrer
shilocom@c-magic.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Fiberglass repair |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
I had to do some Fibreglass repairs to my Cowl as I had some cracking in the
bottom. I used Polyester resin and glass and it has bonded perfectly. No
problems after 12 mths of flying.
Gary Algate
Lite2/582
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Wwillyard@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fiberglass repair
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Wwillyard@aol.com
In a message dated 12/1/2003 5:46:15 PM Eastern Standard Time,
owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com writes:
Hello list members,
Three weeks ago I had a ground loop and some things
got damaged. I have to repair the wing tip and the
cowling bottom. Does somebody know if the fiber glass
in those elements are made with epoxic or acrylic
resin?
Thanks in advance,
Francisco Icaza
I tried to fill external pits on the '94 vintage fuel tanks on my Classic IV
with some polyester resin given to me, it would not cure, indicating that
the
tanks were made of epoxy resin. As a result I have used epoxy on the
remaining fiberglass components with no problem.
Bill Willyard
Classic IV, 912
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 5
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Francisco J Ocampo" <fjocampo@andinet.com>
I would like information where I can find Parts for Continental engine O-200 KEY
START CLUTCH
Thanks Francisco
Message 6
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: michel <michel@online.no>
>===== Original Message From "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilocom@c-magic.com> =====
> I think it would be a good Idea if the list administrators would suggest
> some presidence for reply location...
I entirely agree with you, Bob. What you write is simply common sense
netiquette. It boils down to this: Write the way you would like to read it!
In my case, I feel that keeping an excert of the original text on the top
helps to understand my answer. Changing the title as the subject changes is
also good netiquette.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Model 5 Wheel Width |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Tom Jones <fire_n_ice@direcway.com>
> What I need to know is the width of the model 5 main gear when the
standard
> tube gear is used, I believe it is narrower than the Grove gear.
Jim, in the back of my old 1999 Skystar catalog there are scale drawings of
all the kitfoxes. It shows the "Outback" with tube gear is 4 feet 10 inches
center to center on the tires and 5 feet 7 inches outside the wheel pants.
For what it's worth, the "Voyager" with spring gear is 7 feet 1 inch center
to center of the tires and 7 feet 8 inches outside the wheel pants. I think
these planes are both the "Model 5".
Tom Jones, La Pine, OR, Classic 4
Message 8
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| Subject: | Fiberglass repair |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: michel <michel@online.no>
>===== Original Message From "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net> =====
>I had to do some Fibreglass repairs to my Cowl as I had some cracking in the
>bottom. I used Polyester resin and glass and it has bonded perfectly. No
>problems after 12 mths of flying.
Of course, Gary. Yachts have been built in the 60s in fiberglass/polyester and
- althouth they are submitted to the worst environment; sea water - they are
still happily floating today.
But I think that when price is not an issue, epoxy and carbon fiber, offers a
better strenght-to-weight alternative.
Cheers,
Michel
Message 9
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron Carroll" <RonCarr@Qwest.Net>
Now that we are a part of the Matronics Kitfox list, are our original archives
available elsewhere? The Matronics archives only go back to 11/11/03. If the
original archives are 'lost in cyberspace' do we start from square one, asking
all questions again?
Ron Carroll
Oregon, USA
RonCarr@Qwest.Net
Message 10
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| Subject: | Fiberglass repair |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
I totally agree with you Michel, it was just that I was under the impression
that Polyester resin and epoxy resin don't bond well together (my old
modelling days). I tested a small section with the polyester and it
immediately bonded successfully so I assumed that the cowl was already
formed from a polyester based glass.
I haven't been following this subject very closely so someone may have
already proven me wrong and determined that the fibreglass on the KF is
formed from Epoxy resin and I was "just lucky".
Gary Algate
Lite2/582
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of michel
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Fiberglass repair
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: michel <michel@online.no>
>===== Original Message From "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net> =====
>I had to do some Fibreglass repairs to my Cowl as I had some cracking
>in the bottom. I used Polyester resin and glass and it has bonded
>perfectly. No problems after 12 mths of flying.
Of course, Gary. Yachts have been built in the 60s in fiberglass/polyester
and
- althouth they are submitted to the worst environment; sea water - they are
still happily floating today.
But I think that when price is not an issue, epoxy and carbon fiber, offers
a
better strenght-to-weight alternative.
Cheers,
Michel
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 11
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
Ron
You can still find the old archives at:
www.sportflight.com/archives/
Regards.
Gary Algate
Lite2/582
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron Carroll" <RonCarr@Qwest.Net>
Now that we are a part of the Matronics Kitfox list, are our original
archives available elsewhere? The Matronics archives only go back to
11/11/03. If the original archives are 'lost in cyberspace' do we start
from square one, asking all questions again?
Ron Carroll
Oregon, USA
RonCarr@Qwest.Net
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
_
Message 12
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Daniel,
The standard Rudder trim tab - Model IV is 25-3/4" X 3". I is usually
attached at the top with a piano type hinge. In the factory weldment, there
is a 1" channel at the leading edge of the tab cut-out.
As far as which hole to use, I am flying behind a Rotax 912 and use the top
hole. I suspect with the heavier engine, your placement might differ.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel Aller" <daller1@zoominternet.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Rudder Trim
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Daniel Aller"
<daller1@zoominternet.net>
>
> To the list,
> I would like to know what works out as a rudder trim tab?
> Size,location,method of attachment .
> Witch hole ,of the three,on the forward edge of horizontal stabilizer
trimmed the fox out best?
> I have a Classic IV,912s,NSI cap140,Grove gear,LP acrylic windows,too much
paint on cowl.
> Final assembly,not weighted, hope I didn't build to heavy.
>
> Dan
> N239DA
> Acme,PA
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass repair |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
But, I think carbon fiber would have a real price issue, and for a non
structural part like a wing tip, it would be overkill. I have never worked
with it, but I understand it is tough stuff and I think sanding, could be a
real chore.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "michel" <michel@online.no>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Fiberglass repair
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: michel <michel@online.no>
>
> >===== Original Message From "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net> =====
> >I had to do some Fibreglass repairs to my Cowl as I had some cracking in
the
> >bottom. I used Polyester resin and glass and it has bonded perfectly. No
> >problems after 12 mths of flying.
>
> Of course, Gary. Yachts have been built in the 60s in fiberglass/polyester
and
> - althouth they are submitted to the worst environment; sea water - they
are
> still happily floating today.
> But I think that when price is not an issue, epoxy and carbon fiber,
offers a
> better strenght-to-weight alternative.
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
>
Message 14
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron Carroll" <RonCarr@Qwest.Net>
If there's a need for opinions, here's mine:
My preference is to have the latest reply at the top. When you open the message,
the current information is right there, ready to read, with no time wasted
'searching' for the current reply.
Ron Carroll
KF3/582
Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: michel
To: Kitfox List
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 5:32 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Replys
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: michel <michel@online.no>
> Original Message From "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilocom@c-magic.com>
> I think it would be a good Idea if the list administrators would suggest
> some presidence for reply location...
I entirely agree with you, Bob. What you write is simply common sense
netiquette. It boils down to this: Write the way you would like to read it!
In my case, I feel that keeping an excert of the original text on the top
helps to understand my answer. Changing the title as the subject changes is
also good netiquette.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 15
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
For the past several years, the archives have been kept at
www.groups.yahoo.com/group/kitfoxlist. Beyond that, they are monthy zip
files that you would have to download and unzip.
Don Pearsall
Message 16
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| Subject: | Fiberglass repair |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: michel <michel@online.no>
>===== Original Message From "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
>I haven't been following this subject very closely so someone may have
>already proven me wrong and determined that the fibreglass on the KF is
>formed from Epoxy resin and I was "just lucky".
To my knowledge, Gary, epoxy and polyester bound happily. I have done many
minor repairs on GRP hulls, using epoxy, and it still holds. The only thing
those resins won't bond to are thermo-plastics. Yes, the kind of plastic your
Araldit mixing set is made of. Otherwise, the "killer" of any fiberglass
construction is water getting along the fiber of the glass or by osmose. With
time and exposure to frost, it will delaminate. I have seen yacht decks in
several layers. Not a pretty sight but hardly a problem for planes, unless a
seaplane that is never hangared. But then, a Kitfox will rust away before the
GRP suffers dammages.
Cheers,
Michel
Message 17
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron Carroll" <RonCarr@Qwest.Net>
Thanks Gary, that is great news!
do not archive
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Algate
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 02, 2003 10:05 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Archives
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
Ron
You can still find the old archives at:
www.sportflight.com/archives/
Regards.
Gary Algate
Lite2/582
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron Carroll" <RonCarr@Qwest.Net>
Now that we are a part of the Matronics Kitfox list, are our original
archives available elsewhere? The Matronics archives only go back to
11/11/03. If the original archives are 'lost in cyberspace' do we start
from square one, asking all questions again?
Ron Carroll
Oregon, USA
RonCarr@Qwest.Net
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
_
Message 18
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
I located my file but can not print or send the page as an attachment. Any suggestions?
John Kerr
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ted Palamarek" <temco@telusplanet.net>
>
> Howard
>
> Got the panel maker working okay now. Didn't realise that I
> had an old panel I'd fooled around with sometime ago still
> in the internet temporary file that was gumming up the works
> Thanks
>
> Ted Palamarek
>
> --
> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: panel maker
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ted Palamarek"
> <temco@telusplanet.net>
>
> Howard
>
> I tried the epanelbuilder.com/ site several times but cannot
> get a response??? I just get The second page and everything
> stops. Any ideas???
>
> Ted Palamarek
>
> -
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: panel maker
>
> -> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Howard Firm"
> <pianome2@mchsi.com>
>
> This one? www.epanelbuilder.com/
>
>
> Howard Firm
> 508 12th St. South
> Virginia MN 55792
>
>
> ==============
> Contributions
> other
> ==============
> ==============
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kitfox-List.htm
> ==============
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Replacing engine mount isolator bushings |
Seal-Send-Time: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 08:57:58 -0800
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Roger Standley" <taildragon@msn.com>
Owners who have replaced 912 engine mount isolator bushings,
I have drafted up some notes to supplement the Builder's Manual and SB #54A to
address bushing replacement without pulling the engine. What I am looking for
are comments, lesson learned and tricks from those who have done this replacement
without pulling the engine. I am hoping to minimize down time to just a few
hours.
COMMENTS PLEASE!
SUPPLEMENTAL INSTRUCTIONS TO CHANGE ENGINE MOUNT BUSHINGS
(Also see Builder's Manual and SB #54A - Note procedure and torque values)
BOTTOM BUSHINGS
1. Remove muffler (maybe just "lowering" muffler will work).
2. Support engine.
3. Remove cotter pins and castle nuts (1 per side); remove lower horizontal engine
mounts from engine (2 bolts per side); twist loosened mounts for clearance
and back out bushing bolts (1 per side).
4. Remove old bushings.
5. Install new bushings---do not tighten bolts---just leave loose until all four
bushing assemblies have been replaced.
UPPER BUSHINGS
1. Left upper bushings - remove cotter pin, castle nut and back out bolt.
2. Right upper bushing - go in between coolant spider tank and ignition module
to remove cotter pin, castle nut and back out bolt.
3. Removed bushings
4. Installed new bushings.
FINISH
1. Tighten all bushing bolts (4) to spec and install cotter pins. Tighten horizontal
engine mounts to engine (2 bolts per side) to spec.
2. Reinstalled muffler.
Roger Standley
N499KF
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Standley
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 7:20 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Replacing engine mount isolator bushings
John and Ray,
Thank you for the responses. I have the installation manual and the service bulletin
that shows how each individual bushing assembly goes together. Some of
the bushings are buried pretty deep so what I am looking for are lesson learned,
tricks, disassembly sequence (carbs, muffler, all bushings at once or one
at a time, etc.) from someone who has done this without pulling the engine.
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: JMCBEAN
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2003 8:26 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Replacing engine mount isolator bushings
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "JMCBEAN" <JDMCBEAN@cableone.net>
Roger,
It can be done without pulling the engine. Do you have the engine
installation manual ? You could also refer to the Service Bulletin.. I think
there was a illustration there.
Blue Skies!!
John & Debra McBean
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Roger Standley
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Subject: Kitfox-List: Replacing engine mount isolator bushings
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Roger Standley" <taildragon@msn.com>
Has anyone come up with a set of instructions for changing the engine mount
isolator bushings on the 912? I have a Model IV / 912 UL with about 225
hours. I ordered the P/N: 64804.000, 912 & 912S engine isolator kit from SS
but it didn't include any installation instructions. Is it going to be a job
I can do with the engine on the airplane or do I need to pull the engine?
Roger Standley
N499KF
Message 20
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul A. Franz, P.E." <paul@eucleides.com>
On Tue, 2003-12-02 at 05:32, michel wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: michel <michel@online.no>
>
> >===== Original Message From "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilocom@c-magic.com> =====
> > I think it would be a good Idea if the list administrators would suggest
> > some presidence for reply location...
>
> I entirely agree with you, Bob. What you write is simply common sense
> netiquette. It boils down to this: Write the way you would like to read it!
> In my case, I feel that keeping an excert of the original text on the top
> helps to understand my answer. Changing the title as the subject changes is
> also good netiquette.
I have to agree with Michel and Bob here. Many years of usenet and
maillist use, best practice has come about. This is a good thing too.
Please see:
<http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kitfox-List.htm>
(referenced at the bottom of each and every post)
And in particular note:
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
--
PAF Consulting Engineers | 427 - 140th Ave NE
(425)641-8202 voice | Bellevue, WA 98005
(425)641-1773 fax | <mailto:paul@eucleides.com>
GnuPG Public Key - <http://eucleides.com/pgpkey.asc>
Message 21
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
The link below doesn't seem to actually have the archives. The links are
there but clicking on them lends a 404 file not found.
If I had all of the previous list archives available, I could add them to
the Matronics List archive server for searching and download. If someone
happens to have all of the previous archives, preferably in raw email
format, I'd be happy to get on this.
Thanks!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
At 10:05 AM 12/2/2003 Tuesday, you wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
>
>Ron
>
>You can still find the old archives at:
>
>www.sportflight.com/archives/
>
>Regards.
>
>Gary Algate
>Lite2/582
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron Carroll" <RonCarr@Qwest.Net>
>
>Now that we are a part of the Matronics Kitfox list, are our original
>archives available elsewhere? The Matronics archives only go back to
>11/11/03. If the original archives are 'lost in cyberspace' do we start
>from square one, asking all questions again?
>
>Ron Carroll
>Oregon, USA
>RonCarr@Qwest.Net
>
><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
>_
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass repair |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Gosh, sometimes my brain gets really slow! Of course, epoxy and polyester
bound! When you buy a new fiberglass boat, you first clean all the residues of
moulding wax with acetone then you apply several coats of epoxy to make it
really watertight (polyester is slightly porous) and finish with a primer and
the anti-fouling paint!
Cheers,
Michel
Message 23
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrington" <aerowood@mcsi.net>
This may just be an Oregonian thing, but I agree with Ron!
bh
SW Oregon
> If there's a need for opinions, here's mine:
>
> My preference is to have the latest reply at the top. When you open the
message, the current information is right there, ready to read, with no time
wasted 'searching' for the current reply.
>
> Ron Carroll
> KF3/582
> Oregon
Message 24
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| Subject: | Fuel flow indicator system |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "dmorisse" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
<Lets make some conclusion based on the above:
1) Never install a fuel flow system without a fuel pump.
2) Never install a fuel flow tx before the fuel pump.
3) Install the fuel flow tx uphill, just before the carburetor.
(this
will let vapour escape through the carburetor(s)).
Is this all there is ?>
Torgier, I understand why you want to be extra careful, but with all those
"nevers" it makes it pretty difficult to get anything accomplished. I
installed the Floscan system in my S5 (made for a boat) under the seat.
Since the header tank has a deep settling well I chose to not use a filter
there as it's best used as a last line of defense (my opinion). The
sending unit is installed first right after the header tank then it's
followed by the Facet fuel pump. I chose this order because I didn't want
the pulses of the pump to disturb the fuel flow reading. I also use 3/8
inch OD fuel line with no unnecessary restrictors in the system anywhere,
because this seems self defeating for any aircraft fuel system. Also, once
I level off in cruise power I always shut off the fuel pump which results
in almost no change in fuel flow. The system has worked perfectly since
first flight, it's accurate, and has never required calibrating. As for
vapor, why do you think you'd get vapor into the system?
Darrel
"Never will I have an airplane without a fuel flow gauge"
S5/NSI/CAP
Message 25
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| Subject: | Fuel flow indicator system |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
I have the fuel Mizer (certified version) and the impeller is mounted
between the header tank and the pulse fuel pump on my 582. I have been using
it for about 8 mths now with great success. Better than 99% accuracy after
250 galls through it.
Gary Algate
Lite2/582
>>>>>>>>
<Lets make some conclusion based on the above:
1) Never install a fuel flow system without a fuel pump.
2) Never install a fuel flow tx before the fuel pump.
3) Install the fuel flow tx uphill, just before the carburetor.
(this
will let vapour escape through the carburetor(s)).
Is this all there is ?>
Torgier, I understand why you want to be extra careful, but with all those
"nevers" it makes it pretty difficult to get anything accomplished. I
installed the Floscan system in my S5 (made for a boat) under the seat.
Since the header tank has a deep settling well I chose to not use a filter
there as it's best used as a last line of defense (my opinion).
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass repair |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
a little itch in my aging memory suggests that you can use epoxy on polyester but
not the other way round because epoxies stay a little waxy.
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
> Gosh, sometimes my brain gets really slow! Of course, epoxy and polyester
> bound! When you buy a new fiberglass boat, you first clean all the residues of
> moulding wax with acetone then you apply several coats of epoxy to make it
> really watertight (polyester is slightly porous) and finish with a primer and
> the anti-fouling paint!
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
The climb sounds great. But, I am curious as to all the performance
parameters, do you mind posting your cruise, and fuel burn at those numbers
plus the payload with full tanks.
When comparing engine packages there are many considerations. Climb being
one.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: <DC91840@aol.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Jab engine
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: DC91840@aol.com
>
> Hi Guys:
> I have a Classic IV with a Jab 3300.I get a 1500 + FPM
> climb.Thats with a Sensenich wood prop,64x46.
> Now I don't think thats a bad climb rate.Or is it??????
> My cowling is the KF with the bumps lengthened 9".
> Works well but looks different.
>
>
Message 28
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Howard Firm" <pianome2@mchsi.com>
John, I don't think that you can save the file....I was able to print it out
with the Print Screen key on the keyboard. It's a handy little program....I
used it to get an idea of my layout.
Howard
----- Original Message -----
From: <kerrjohna@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: panel maker
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
>
> I located my file but can not print or send the page as an attachment.
Any suggestions?
>
> John Kerr
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ted Palamarek"
<temco@telusplanet.net>
> >
> > Howard
> >
> > Got the panel maker working okay now. Didn't realise that I
> > had an old panel I'd fooled around with sometime ago still
> > in the internet temporary file that was gumming up the works
> > Thanks
> >
> > Ted Palamarek
> >
> > --
> > Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: panel maker
> >
> >
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ted Palamarek"
> > <temco@telusplanet.net>
> >
> > Howard
> >
> > I tried the epanelbuilder.com/ site several times but cannot
> > get a response??? I just get The second page and everything
> > stops. Any ideas???
> >
> > Ted Palamarek
> >
> > -
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: panel maker
> >
> > -> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Howard Firm"
> > <pianome2@mchsi.com>
> >
> > This one? www.epanelbuilder.com/
> >
> >
> > Howard Firm
> > 508 12th St. South
> > Virginia MN 55792
> >
> >
> > ==============
> > Contributions
> > other
> > ==============
> > ==============
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kitfox-List.htm
> > ==============
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel flow indicator system |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Torgeir Mortensen <torgemor@online.no>
Hi Darrel,
All those "never" is simply based on the recommendation from many
producers of such system, besides, here is also some of the "precaution"
things not to implement into a fuel system, such as inserting
"restrictors" (our flow tx), another filter etc.
Just wanted to have some response and experience from others
installation.
> Torgier, I understand why you want to be extra careful, but with all those
> "nevers" it makes it pretty difficult to get anything accomplished.
Absolutely, this is just the point - how do you manage to install the
system when following all the recommendations from the factory?
> Since the header tank has a deep settling well I chose to not use a filter
> there as it's best used as a last line of defense (my opinion). The
> sending unit is installed first right after the header tank then it's
> followed by the Facet fuel pump.
I like your approach here, this is one thing I'll been considering, but
I like to put a "rough" filter just to block out any "large" debris as I
don't have a sump in my "large" fwd. "header" tank, other filters is
just the finger "filter" at both wing tank outlet.
My plan is to use the flow tx "non jetted", this in order to obtain as
low restriction as possible here.
> Also, once I level off in cruise power I always shut off the fuel pump which
results
> in almost no change in fuel flow. The system has worked perfectly since
> first flight, it's accurate, and has never required calibrating.
This is good information, but in my case - the two stroke ... :( ..
> As for vapor, why do you think you'd get vapor into the system?
Aha-, well, this is mostly a problem for those of us (?) "planning" to
use the "jet" insert. First an information, if you leave info about your
engines fuel demand to the seller, they may install the "jet" for you as
a "service", so make sure that you'll have that "option". Further, if
this device is installed, they said it is impossible to remove it again
without damaging the flow tx.
As this device is installed to speed up the flow (in order to get a more
accurate system), we'll know that the static pressure at this "bleeding"
point is reduced. In warm weather, flying at high altitude and using
auto gas - such devices produce vapor bubbles. However, this is no
problem at my place (most of the tear), but for people flying under
"hot" condition, this is something to consider. (A "cold" air vented
fuel "routing" is a good thing to use inside the engine cowl. Remember
the vented box around the gasculator, seen in most of the certif.
planes).
Since your flow tx don't have any restrictor installed, there is no
problem.
> "Never will I have an airplane without a fuel flow gauge"
> S5/NSI/CAP
Hope I'll soon be in that class.. :) ..
Thanks for the response.
Torgeir.
PS:
Is one of those the one you are using?
http://www.floscan.com/html/technology.asp
Here is some setup for Floscan "impellers":
http://www.floscan.com/html/SeriesKinfo.asp
Message 30
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Bob,
I too sort by subject to read. It saves a lot of time to follow one
thread at a time.
Randy - Series 5/7 - mounting 912S
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob
Unternaehrer
Subject: Kitfox-List: Replys
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer"
<shilocom@c-magic.com>
I notice that some peoples "replys" are at the bottom of or after the
text that they are replying to and some, like mine, are at the top of
the reply.. I think the ones at the top save time scanning through
several replys to get down to the new message, often finding there is NO
reply at all.. I haven't been able to determine what sets where the
replly is located... I use the standard Microsoft mail client, but
wonder if the reason others replys are located different is because they
are using another client or is it "settable" someplace I can't find... I
think it would be a good Idea if the list administrators would suggest
some presidence for repl y location... Others may think it's "none of
their bussiness" The other thing that is sometimes irratating is people
replying to "old subject" messages with a completely different
subject.... It's been covered here before, but please take the time to
"change the subject line" for your reply if it you are changing the
subject.. So!
me of us group our emails by "subject"
Blue Skies
Bob Unternaehrer
shilocom@c-magic.com
==
==
==
==
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel flow indicator system |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "dmorisse" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
This is the one I'm using. Worked perfectly right out of the box with no
adjustments. Very accurate. Good luck Torgier
Darrel
http://www.floscan.com/html/marine/models/gasoline/series5500.html
> > "Never will I have an airplane without a fuel flow gauge"
> > S5/NSI/CAP
> Hope I'll soon be in that class.. :) ..
> Thanks for the response.
> Torgeir.
> PS:
>
> Is one of those the one you are using?
>
> http://www.floscan.com/html/technology.asp
>
> Here is some setup for Floscan "impellers":
>
> http://www.floscan.com/html/SeriesKinfo.asp
Message 32
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke <n981ms@yahoo.com>
If you can get a "screen grabber" you can essentially take a picture of whatever
is on your monitor screen and turn it into a bmp and then modify it with a paint
program. "screen grabbers" are available for free download on the internet.
I used it extensively to plan my panel. I will post to sportflight under
gotta haves.
Howard Firm <pianome2@mchsi.com> wrote:--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Howard
Firm"
John, I don't think that you can save the file....I was able to print it out
with the Print Screen key on the keyboard. It's a handy little program....I
used it to get an idea of my layout.
Howard
----- Original Message -----
From:
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: panel maker
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
>
> I located my file but can not print or send the page as an attachment.
Any suggestions?
>
> John Kerr
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ted Palamarek"
> >
> > Howard
> >
> > Got the panel maker working okay now. Didn't realise that I
> > had an old panel I'd fooled around with sometime ago still
> > in the internet temporary file that was gumming up the works
> > Thanks
> >
> > Ted Palamarek
> >
> > --
> > Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: panel maker
> >
> >
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ted Palamarek"
> >
> >
> > Howard
> >
> > I tried the epanelbuilder.com/ site several times but cannot
> > get a response??? I just get The second page and everything
> > stops. Any ideas???
> >
> > Ted Palamarek
> >
> > -
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: panel maker
> >
> > -> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Howard Firm"
> >
> >
> > This one? www.epanelbuilder.com/
> >
> >
> > Howard Firm
> > 508 12th St. South
> > Virginia MN 55792
> >
> >
> > ==============
> > Contributions
> > other
> > ==============
> > ==============
> > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kitfox-List.htm
> > ==============
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Maxwell Duke
S6/IO240/Phase II Flight Testing
---------------------------------
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
Message 33
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo@telefonica.net>
Just to confiirm that the plans were sent from NY Nov the 25th.
Sorry for the delay, as I had to wait for a friend travelling into US to
avoid more than expected shipping fees from Spain.
And please, you guys that have ordered plans and have not payed for them,
think about that I dont need so many ones and I have already payed for the
copies just to help you.
Best regards, Michel
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel flow indicator system |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Gary Algate wrote:
> I have the fuel Mizer (certified version) and the impeller is mounted
> between the header tank and the pulse fuel pump on my 582.
Excuse me, Gary, but do we need an extra fuel pump with a 582? Once I wanted to
check the Bing carburettor's bowl when my fuel main valve was still open and it
was really pouring out by simple gravity. My main concern is if the pulse pump
membrane punctures and fuel fills the engine through the pulse line. But an
extra pump won't help there, will it?
Cheers,
Michel
Message 35
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kitfox" <Kitfox@chrisbates.co.uk>
Hi Chaps,
don't suppose anyone's got a set of MKII, III orIV4 undercarriage legs
gathering dust in their garage they want to sell, I'm looking for a set for
my MKII. I'm also after about 5 spare wing ribs if anyone has any they want
to sell.
Thanks,
Chris
MKII UK
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass repair |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Wwillyard@aol.com
In a message dated 12/2/2003 4:00:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
kerrjohna@comcast.net writes:
a little itch in my aging memory suggests that you can use epoxy on polyester
but not the other way round because epoxies stay a little waxy.
This is what I have found through experience.
Bill W.
Message 37
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: DC91840@aol.com
Hello all:
My classic IV is heavy at 760# empty wt.
Payload w/full fuel is 284#
I cruise it at 100 mph.
fuel burn is around 5 gph.
Haven't taken it on any long cross country trips.
Most of my flying is within 100 miles of home.
Speed ranges from 60>120 mph.as I do a lot
of sight seeing (exploring) at a lot of different
altitudes. This makes it hard to determine fuel
burn when you are forever changing speed and
altitude. But this is the price you pay for per-
formance. I do the same in my Citabria and
get only about 10 gph. fuel burn and have only
half the fun!!! with half the performance.
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass repair |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by:
thanks very much to Michel, kerr, Lowell, Bill, Gary
and Bob for your posts about fiberglass repair.
Francisco Icaza
Classic IV in Mexico City.
--- kerrjohna@comcast.net escribi: > --> Kitfox-List
message posted by:
> kerrjohna@comcast.net
>
> a little itch in my aging memory suggests that you
> can use epoxy on polyester but not the other way
> round because epoxies stay a little waxy.
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel
> Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> >
> > Gosh, sometimes my brain gets really slow! Of
> course, epoxy and polyester
> > bound! When you buy a new fiberglass boat, you
> first clean all the residues of
> > moulding wax with acetone then you apply several
> coats of epoxy to make it
> > really watertight (polyester is slightly porous)
> and finish with a primer and
> > the anti-fouling paint!
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Michel
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kitfox-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
La mejor conexin a internet y 25MB extra a tu correo por $100 al mes. http://net.yahoo.com.mx
Message 39
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilocom@c-magic.com>
Chris,, I have a set of tube steel legs for a IV.. I'm currently using them
for MOVE AROUND legs untill I get my Spring gear mounted... Interested call
660-548-3228 Located in Mo. Bob U.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kitfox" <Kitfox@chrisbates.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Replys
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kitfox" <Kitfox@chrisbates.co.uk>
>
>
> Hi Chaps,
> don't suppose anyone's got a set of MKII, III orIV4 undercarriage legs
> gathering dust in their garage they want to sell, I'm looking for a set
for
> my MKII. I'm also after about 5 spare wing ribs if anyone has any they
want
> to sell.
> Thanks,
> Chris
> MKII UK
>
>
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
>
>
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel flow indicator system |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Torgeir Mortensen <torgemor@online.no>
Gary Algate wrote:
> I have the fuel Mizer (certified version) and the impeller is mounted
> between the header tank and the pulse fuel pump on my 582. I have been using
> it for about 8 mths now with great success. Better than 99% accuracy after
> 250 galls through it.
>
> Gary Algate
> Lite2/582
Hi Gary,
Think your setup is like mine is going to be -as I'm flying a Mod II
with the 532, yes - yes double ignition.
Is it this one (the one in the link below), if - I'll think this one use
the same fuel flow tx as the one I've got.
Was this fuel flow tx delivered with a white colored reducer (the jet)?
Also, did you use this device?
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/fuelmizer.php
Looks like the thoughts about installing the fuel flow tx just after the
header, but before the fuel pump, is something most people use.
In the link I gave yesterday, there is a "6 page installation /
information guide " for the fuel flow tx about how and why.
This information is very good, also as a general information about such
devices.
To view this file (after downloading) you'll need the Acrobat reader.
http://www.MGLAvionics.co.za/probes.html
Then there is just one thing to mention, and this is about the
recommendation - having the fuel flow tx after the pump. Lets assume
that all the filtering is good, then imaging a stuck or high friction
impeller wheel. In such rare case, the flow to the pump will be much
restricted and the engine may stop completely or give very low power.
Well-, this is the situation, now, why does the Cert. AC. install the
fuel flow tx after the pump?
This is because an unrestricted inlet to a fuel pump, would not spoil
the fuel pump performance as it will produce fuel pressure that can
force a "high" friction impeller wheel to run, in fact it can force
enough fuel through the faulty flow tx. This keep your engine running,
and the odds is much better with this setup.
OK. I've never seen a stuck "flow impeller", but heard about it.
Thanks for your respond.
Torgeir.
Message 41
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| Subject: | Grove landing gear |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jack Seaford" <jseaford@bellsouth.net>
My model 4-1200 with Grove landing gear has a 6 foot center to center wheel span.
Jack Seaford
Message 42
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Gandy" <s.gandy@comcast.net>
Can you run Auto fuel in the Jabiru 3300?
Steve Gandy
s.gandy@comcast.net
Aeronca L-3C N48540
Kitfox 6 N540KF (Building)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
DC91840@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Jab engine
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: DC91840@aol.com
Hello all:
My classic IV is heavy at 760# empty wt.
Payload w/full fuel is 284#
I cruise it at 100 mph.
fuel burn is around 5 gph.
Haven't taken it on any long cross country trips.
Most of my flying is within 100 miles of home.
Speed ranges from 60>120 mph.as I do a lot
of sight seeing (exploring) at a lot of different
altitudes. This makes it hard to determine fuel
burn when you are forever changing speed and
altitude. But this is the price you pay for per-
formance. I do the same in my Citabria and
get only about 10 gph. fuel burn and have only
half the fun!!! with half the performance.
==
==
==
==
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Replacing engine mount isolator bushings |
Seal-Send-Time: Tue, 2 Dec 2003 17:54:21 -0800
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Roger Standley" <taildragon@msn.com>
Owners who have replaced 912 engine mount isolator bushings,
I have drafted up some notes to supplement the Builder's Manual and SB #54A to
address bushing replacement without pulling the engine. What I am looking for
are comments, lesson learned and tricks from those who have done this replacement
without pulling the engine. I am hoping to minimize down time to just a few
hours.
COMMENTS PLEASE!
SUPPLEMENTAL INSTRUCTIONS TO CHANGE ENGINE MOUNT BUSHINGS
(Also see Builder's Manual and SB #54A - Note procedure and torque values)
BOTTOM BUSHINGS
1. Remove muffler (maybe just "lowering" muffler will work).
2. Support engine.
3. Remove cotter pins and castle nuts (1 per side); remove lower horizontal engine
mounts from engine (2 bolts per side); twist loosened mounts for clearance
and back out bushing bolts (1 per side).
4. Remove old bushings.
5. Install new bushings---do not tighten bolts---just leave loose until all four
bushing assemblies have been replaced.
UPPER BUSHINGS
1. Left upper bushings - remove cotter pin, castle nut and back out bolt.
2. Right upper bushing - go in between coolant spider tank and ignition module
to remove cotter pin, castle nut and back out bolt.
3. Removed bushings
4. Installed new bushings.
FINISH
1. Tighten all bushing bolts (4) to spec and install cotter pins. Tighten horizontal
engine mounts to engine (2 bolts per side) to spec.
2. Reinstalled muffler.
Roger Standley
N499KF
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Standley
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 24, 2003 7:20 PM
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Replacing engine mount isolator bushings
John and Ray,
Thank you for the responses. I have the installation manual and the service bulletin
that shows how each individual bushing assembly goes together. Some of
the bushings are buried pretty deep so what I am looking for are lesson learned,
tricks, disassembly sequence (carbs, muffler, all bushings at once or one
at a time, etc.) from someone who has done this without pulling the engine.
Roger
----- Original Message -----
From: JMCBEAN
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2003 8:26 AM
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Replacing engine mount isolator bushings
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "JMCBEAN" <JDMCBEAN@cableone.net>
Roger,
It can be done without pulling the engine. Do you have the engine
installation manual ? You could also refer to the Service Bulletin.. I think
there was a illustration there.
Blue Skies!!
John & Debra McBean
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Roger Standley
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Subject: Kitfox-List: Replacing engine mount isolator bushings
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Roger Standley" <taildragon@msn.com>
Has anyone come up with a set of instructions for changing the engine mount
isolator bushings on the 912? I have a Model IV / 912 UL with about 225
hours. I ordered the P/N: 64804.000, 912 & 912S engine isolator kit from SS
but it didn't include any installation instructions. Is it going to be a job
I can do with the engine on the airplane or do I need to pull the engine?
Roger Standley
N499KF
Message 44
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| Subject: | Model 5 Wheel Width |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Corner <jcorner@shaw.ca>
Tom
Thanks for the info -- most helpful!
Jim
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Tom Jones <fire_n_ice@direcway.com>
> What I need to know is the width of the model 5 main gear when the
standard
> tube gear is used, I believe it is narrower than the Grove gear.
Jim, in the back of my old 1999 Skystar catalog there are scale drawings of
all the kitfoxes. It shows the "Outback" with tube gear is 4 feet 10 inches
center to center on the tires and 5 feet 7 inches outside the wheel pants.
For what it's worth, the "Voyager" with spring gear is 7 feet 1 inch center
to center of the tires and 7 feet 8 inches outside the wheel pants. I think
these planes are both the "Model 5".
Tom Jones, La Pine, OR, Classic 4
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Model 5 Wheel Width |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jeff Smathers <jsmathers@cybcon.com>
I just went out and measured my KF5 ( 1994 ) Outback w/tube gear and
without fuel and load it was 66.5" outside to outside tire width.
Jeff Smathers Molalla Ore. KF5 NSI EA-81 CAP 140 Almost done........
Arthur Nation wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Arthur Nation <anation@w-link.net>
>
> On Monday 01 December 2003 19:53, Jim Corner wrote:
>
> Jim,
> Check the web page for Groveaircraft.com. It has dimensions for a Series 5.
> Could be what u need.
> Arthur
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Corner <jcorner@shaw.ca>
> >
> >
> > Could someone advise the outside wheel width for a Model 5 with the
> > standard steel tube gear..... I don't know if I have to modify my trailer
> > in order to haul one.
> >
> > Jim Corner
> >
> >
>
Message 46
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| Subject: | Model 5 Wheel Width |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Corner <jcorner@shaw.ca>
Thanks Jeff, that confirms other data that I have received. Good news is
that I don't have to modify my trailer!
Another proof that this list is great!
Jim
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jeff Smathers <jsmathers@cybcon.com>
I just went out and measured my KF5 ( 1994 ) Outback w/tube gear and
without fuel and load it was 66.5" outside to outside tire width.
Jeff Smathers Molalla Ore. KF5 NSI EA-81 CAP 140 Almost done........
Arthur Nation wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Arthur Nation <anation@w-link.net>
>
> On Monday 01 December 2003 19:53, Jim Corner wrote:
>
> Jim,
> Check the web page for Groveaircraft.com. It has dimensions for a Series
5.
> Could be what u need.
> Arthur
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Corner <jcorner@shaw.ca>
> >
> >
> > Could someone advise the outside wheel width for a Model 5 with the
> > standard steel tube gear..... I don't know if I have to modify my
trailer
> > in order to haul one.
> >
> > Jim Corner
> >
> >
>
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