Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:30 AM - You must be a rocket scientist (jareds)
2. 08:45 AM - Installing cabin heater (john H)
3. 08:58 AM - Re: Installing cabin heater (Bruce Harrington)
4. 09:05 AM - 582 radiator/temps/cowl (jareds)
5. 09:08 AM - Re: Installing cabin heater (john H)
6. 11:34 AM - Re: HKS engine (Michel Verheughe)
7. 12:18 PM - Avionics (Clem Nichols)
8. 12:33 PM - Re: Avionics (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
9. 12:52 PM - Re: Avionics (Kitfox)
10. 01:34 PM - Stabil in fuel (Kirk's Welding)
11. 02:48 PM - Re: Avionics (Randy Daughenbaugh)
12. 03:32 PM - Re: LED Nav lights. (Torgeir Mortensen)
13. 03:42 PM - Re: LED Nav lights. (Torgeir Mortensen)
14. 03:46 PM - Re: LED Nav lights. (Torgeir Mortensen)
15. 06:02 PM - Re: Stabil in fuel (Roger Standley)
16. 06:33 PM - Re: Stabil in fuel (David & Maria Lumgair)
17. 10:53 PM - Re: LED Nav lights. (kurt schrader)
18. 10:58 PM - Re: Stabil in fuel (John Anderson)
19. 11:35 PM - Re: LED Nav lights. (kurt schrader)
Message 1
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Ted bryant <bbaviation@olg.com>
| Subject: | You must be a rocket scientist |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
Don, List:
582 temps seem like a recurring hot topic on the list except for when
it's frigid like it is now. But there's not a better time to tinker
with cowl designs than now so i thought i'd share some of the info i
gathered recently. Don and I started to tackle the issue with some
experimenting with radiator position and cowl shape and design last
summer when we met south of DC. If you remember, Don won the award for
UGLIEST design! Accidentally finding support for some unfounded logic
is pretty rewarding.
I was reading the jan 2004 EAA sport aviation magazine and on page 38
they were talking about the physics and principles of airflow and
radiator design. It looks like our combined engineering accidents have
some scientific logic behind them and explains why our radiators finally
cooled so well. The diagram says it all and is well worth tearing out
for future reference!
A few things we did well were:
Mine is away from the belly like a P-51 (welded brackets about 4
inches) This is good because air along the skin of the plane moves
extremely slow! But not too much to increase drag dramatically!
Don's angled plexiglas inlet acts as a LONG defuser and my short curved
one slows down the air to the required 40%-75% optimum flow for max
cooling effect.
Some other improvements that i see based on the dialogue and diagrams
would be for us to design a better outlet and change the angle of bite a
bit to suit the climb out better since cruise temps never seems to be a
problem.
Good luck!
Message 2
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| Subject: | Installing cabin heater |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "john H" <professor71@hotmail.com>
Hi List
I am in the process of installing a heater core for cabin heat. My question
is which hose does the on/off valve tap into? Is it the hose from the
radiator to the water pump or the hose from the radiator to the spider tank?
Thanks
John
Rethink your business approach for the new year with the helpful tips here.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Installing cabin heater |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrington" <aerowood@mcsi.net>
Hi Jon,
I think I put mine before the heater so the heater would not have pressure in it
with the valve off. I used a Ford Truck valve from NAPA auto parts store. Very
light.
bh
> Hi List
> I am in the process of installing a heater core for cabin heat. My question
> is which hose does the on/off valve tap into? Is it the hose from the
> radiator to the water pump or the hose from the radiator to the spider tank?
> Thanks
> John
Message 4
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| Subject: | 582 radiator/temps/cowl |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
Don, List:
582 temps seem like a recurring hot topic on the list except for when
it's frigid like it is now. But there's not a better time to tinker
with cowl designs than now so i thought i'd share some of the info i
gathered recently. Don and I started to tackle the issue with some
experimenting with radiator position and cowl shape and design last
summer when we met south of DC. If you remember, Don won the award for
UGLIEST design! Accidentally finding support for some unfounded logic
is pretty rewarding.
I was reading the jan 2004 EAA sport aviation magazine and on page 38
they were talking about the physics and principles of airflow and
radiator design. It looks like our combined engineering accidents have
some scientific logic behind them and explains why our radiators finally
cooled so well. The diagram says it all and is well worth tearing out
for future reference!
A few things we did well were:
Mine is away from the belly like a P-51 (welded brackets about 4
inches) This is good because air along the skin of the plane moves
extremely slow! But not too much to increase drag dramatically!
Don's angled plexiglas inlet acts as a LONG defuser and my short curved
one slows down the air to the required 40%-75% optimum flow for max
cooling effect.
Some other improvements that i see based on the dialogue and diagrams
would be for us to design a better outlet and change the angle of bite a
bit to suit the climb out better since cruise temps never seems to be a
problem.
Good luck!
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Installing cabin heater |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "john H" <professor71@hotmail.com>
Hi Bruce
I will have the valve installed in the 5/8 line teed off from the main line
before the heater core. I just need to know which hose to tee into.
John
>Hi Jon,
>I think I put mine before the heater so the heater would not have pressure
>in it
>with the valve off. I used a Ford Truck valve from NAPA auto parts store.
>Very
>light.
>bh
>
> > Hi List
> > I am in the process of installing a heater core for cabin heat. My
>question
> > is which hose does the on/off valve tap into? Is it the hose from the
> > radiator to the water pump or the hose from the radiator to the spider
>tank?
> > Thanks
> > John
Rethink your business approach for the new year with the helpful tips here.
Message 6
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Thank you Jim, John, Lowell, Martin and Gary, for your answers. It confirms the
impression I had from before. I was inquiring about this HKS engine because ...
it says to burn half the fuel of the 582. Of course, a 2-strokes spills more
fuel than a 4-strokes and if the power is that lesser than the 582, it might
sum up.
Martin, we have a deal, I'll wait for you to come and get my old 582 at 300
hours! Take your woollies because it might be next winter and the North Sea
water is cold! :-)
From what I read, I might just buy a new blue-top 582. It's much easier that
way: Less time to install a new type of engine = more time flying! :-)
One question, though: I know that the Jabiru 2200 will require a new cowling
but does the 912 also requires a new round cowling? I thought the Kitfox model
3 was built with both the 582 and 912 in mind.
Cheers,
Michel
PS: I had a beautiful T&G flight today, in -5 C. The ol' 582 fired at the first
attempt and although the runway was iced down (snow + rain + frost) landing was
a pleasure. In fact some of my smoothest landings ever; I didn't even feel I
was touching the ground.
Message 7
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
My Model IV is presently equipped with only a hand-held Icom radio and a Model
315 Magellan GPS receiver. I'm intending to add a transponder and a panel mounted
radio. I haven't decided on a Comm radio with a built-in GPS receiver or
a basic radio plus something like a Garmin 196 unit, nor have I decided on a
specific transponder and encoder. Do I purchase these new or take my chances
on E-Bay purchasing yellow-tagged units? I'd appreciate any advice. Bear in
mind that I'll probably have the units installed by a professional rather than
undertaking the job myself.
Message 8
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
Clem,
Your best bet is buying the units though the people that do the install.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
Phone & Fax: 406-538-6574
noel@blueskyaviation.net <mailto:noel@blueskyaviation.net>
www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Clem Nichols
Subject: Kitfox-List: Avionics
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
My Model IV is presently equipped with only a hand-held Icom radio and a
Model 315 Magellan GPS receiver. I'm intending to add a transponder and a
panel mounted radio. I haven't decided on a Comm radio with a built-in GPS
receiver or a basic radio plus something like a Garmin 196 unit, nor have I
decided on a specific transponder and encoder. Do I purchase these new or
take my chances on E-Bay purchasing yellow-tagged units? I'd appreciate any
advice. Bear in mind that I'll probably have the units installed by a
professional rather than undertaking the job myself.
Message 9
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kitfox" <Kitfox@chrisbates.co.uk>
Only thing I'd say is the nice thing about separate units is if one goes
wrong you send it off and get it fixed. If it's a combined unit and part of
it fails you lose the whole shooting match.
I run a garmin GTX-320A with an Ameri-King encoder, not had a problem in 2
years. I've a Microair 760 radio (which is superb) but it does need some
back room so careful how it's mounted, and a 196 semi flush in the panel in
place of my GPSIII- I really like the 196, makes flying so much easier with
it's database.. I'm just thinking of putting a mounting in for my iPAQ as
that shows me the Aviation maps, OS maps and ground photo'swhich is
particularly useful over here as you can have a look at an aerial photo
before you turn up at a field you've not visited before.
Chris
MKII - UK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Avionics
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
>
> My Model IV is presently equipped with only a hand-held Icom radio and a
Model 315 Magellan GPS receiver. I'm intending to add a transponder and a
panel mounted radio. I haven't decided on a Comm radio with a built-in GPS
receiver or a basic radio plus something like a Garmin 196 unit, nor have I
decided on a specific transponder and encoder. Do I purchase these new or
take my chances on E-Bay purchasing yellow-tagged units? I'd appreciate any
advice. Bear in mind that I'll probably have the units installed by a
professional rather than undertaking the job myself.
>
>
Message 10
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kirk's Welding" <kirk@mninter.net>
Hello:
I have a Rotax 912 powered Kitfox Classic IV. Sometimes the plane will sit for
weeks with auto gas in it. Does anyone that has a Rotax 912 put Stabil in their
fuel to keep it from going bad? If so, any long term effects?
Thanks,
Kirk Martenson
Classic IV
Message 11
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Chris,
I am working on my panel and plan to use the Garmin GPSmap 196, (The
"panel view" screen looks real useful.) I am curious what you mean by
"semi-flush" in panel.
Do you have a picture you could share on Sportflight?
Randy - anxious to get to flying!
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kitfox
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Avionics
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kitfox" <Kitfox@chrisbates.co.uk>
Only thing I'd say is the nice thing about separate units is if one goes
wrong you send it off and get it fixed. If it's a combined unit and part
of
it fails you lose the whole shooting match.
I run a garmin GTX-320A with an Ameri-King encoder, not had a problem in
2
years. I've a Microair 760 radio (which is superb) but it does need some
back room so careful how it's mounted, and a 196 semi flush in the panel
in
place of my GPSIII- I really like the 196, makes flying so much easier
with
it's database.. I'm just thinking of putting a mounting in for my iPAQ
as
that shows me the Aviation maps, OS maps and ground photo'swhich is
particularly useful over here as you can have a look at an aerial photo
before you turn up at a field you've not visited before.
Chris
MKII - UK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Avionics
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
>
> My Model IV is presently equipped with only a hand-held Icom radio and
a
Model 315 Magellan GPS receiver. I'm intending to add a transponder and
a
panel mounted radio. I haven't decided on a Comm radio with a built-in
GPS
receiver or a basic radio plus something like a Garmin 196 unit, nor
have I
decided on a specific transponder and encoder. Do I purchase these new
or
take my chances on E-Bay purchasing yellow-tagged units? I'd appreciate
any
advice. Bear in mind that I'll probably have the units installed by a
professional rather than undertaking the job myself.
>
>
==
==
==
==
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: LED Nav lights. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Torgeir Mortensen <torgemor@online.no>
Hi Kurt,
Thanks for the flowers.
First, the "NVG Nav light clusters" is sold as a part of a complete "NVG
package"- and are very expensive. Have tried to ask for light clusters
(from the ECT factory). But so far, no one is interested to make them
for "ordinary planes". However, I'm still in debate about such units, so
I'll let you know if something of interest shows up.
With "just" a little work, I'll think those units is easy to make
yourself. First we need a PCB layout for the all the LED's to be
installed, then some sockets to install the PCB into. Note, there is a
little different between the bayonet guide pins from the R/H and L/H VS.
the tail light. These bulb sockets is found in an old "standard cars",
-then break the glass an dig out the remaining cement...
Here is a good source for LED's to be used for "self made" NAV lights.
Keep in mind, those NAV lights should radiate light over a defined
angle, this according to FAA and alike. I'm sure I have a figure about
this specifications somewhere.
Here is the link for green and blank LED's:
http://www.lc-led.com/ProductListing.jsp?idDepartment=1
Roll down to you'll see the 60 degree type (green 3000 mcd and white
2500 mcd).
Here is the link for the red LED's:
http://www.lc-led.com/ProductListing.jsp?idDepartment=2
Roll down to you'll see the 60 degree type (red 3000 mcd).
We'll put them in serial four by four, in this way they can be used for
our 12 Volts (nominal voltage is 13.75 Volt) system. However, an
over-voltage protection (or current limitation) is vice in such an
installation as an over-volt here can be expensive..
Buying them in bulks, more than a 1000, is not that expensive, here is
quite some options.. :-) ..
Not to forgot, they can be used in the cockpit as well. Did you know
that the green light is much more comfortable for the naked eye than any
other color? Learned this from the NVG stuff I've been working with for
some time.
For the Xenon landing light, here is a link for "add on units" from
Hella and Phillips:
http://store.yahoo.net/hidfactory/83heblhidkit.html
PS. The price here is for 2 units, in addition you'll need the light
assy as; reflector, glass and light housing.
The unit from hella take 35 Watt, or some 2.5 Amps at 13.75 VDC, not
bad..
Well, I'm not flying night VFR, but a landing light is a good "beacon"
in the pattern.
OK. Now it's time for the bed, -soon.
Cheers
Torgeir.
kurt schrader wrote:
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
> Hi again Torgier,
>
> It is good to have people like you on the list who
> have such good practicle knowledge. You are always a
> good source of info.
>
> I would like to know the source of those LED clusters
> in your pic too. They are much better than hand
> assembling and entire unit.
>
> At our auto stores they have some LED clusters for
> cars now and these may fit. I haven't tried them yet,
> but they look close to your pictured ones.
>
> The new xenon systems are great and are not easily
> burned out or broken by vibration, but cost about $500
> US. I forgot who, but someone is looking into
> supplying these for kit planes.
>
> I bought a quartz halogen 2,000,000 candle power light
> that works very well too, but the 8 inch lense seems
> too big to put on my plane. Right now I have 2 about
> 500,000 candle power lights that don't go far enough,
> but draw 10 amps. That is my cutoff for power.
>
> Kurt S.
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: LED Nav lights. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Torgeir Mortensen <torgemor@online.no>
Hi Bob,
They are sold as a part of a kit and can't be bought separately.
However, I'm sure something is going to change here.
Torgeir.
Bob Unternaehrer wrote:
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilocom@c-magic.com>
>
> How can you get these lights??
> Bob U.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Torgeir Mortensen" <torgemor@online.no>
> To: "Kitfox List" <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Kitfox-List: LED Nav lights.
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Torgeir Mortensen <torgemor@online.no>
> >
> > Hi Folks,
> >
> >
> > Just uploaded a picture of the "LED" Nav lights used in helicopters when
> > flying NVG missions (night vision goggles).
> >
> > This is the kind of NAV light to be used in our aircraft with "low"
> > rated generator.
> >
> > Consumption for all three NAV lights is around one Amp., not bad..
> >
> >
> > Here is the direct link to the picture:
> >
> >
> http://www.sportflight.com/cgi-bin/uploader.pl?action=view&epoch=1074195914
> >
> >
> > Torgeir.
> >
> >
> > ---
> > [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
> >
> >
>
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: LED Nav lights. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Torgeir Mortensen <torgemor@online.no>
Don't know the cost, but I'll guess between 30 and 40 USD each ??
Torgeir.
kerrjohna@comcast.net wrote:
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kerrjohna@comcast.net
>
> and the cost for each?
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Torgeir Mortensen <torgemor@online.no>
> >
> > Hi Folks,
> >
> >
> > Just uploaded a picture of the "LED" Nav lights used in helicopters when
> > flying NVG missions (night vision goggles).
> >
> > This is the kind of NAV light to be used in our aircraft with "low"
> > rated generator.
> >
> > Consumption for all three NAV lights is around one Amp., not bad..
> >
> >
> > Here is the direct link to the picture:
> >
> > http://www.sportflight.com/cgi-bin/uploader.pl?action=view&epoch=1074195914
> >
> >
> > Torgeir.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Stabil in fuel |
Seal-Send-Time: Sat, 17 Jan 2004 17:55:45 -0800
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Roger Standley" <taildragon@msn.com>
Kirk,
What do you mean by "going bad"??
Roger Standley
IV-1200, 912UL
----- Original Message -----
From: Kirk's Welding
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2004 1:33 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Stabil in fuel
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kirk's Welding" <kirk@mninter.net>
Hello:
I have a Rotax 912 powered Kitfox Classic IV. Sometimes the plane will sit for
weeks with auto gas in it. Does anyone that has a Rotax 912 put Stabil in
their fuel to keep it from going bad? If so, any long term effects?
Thanks,
Kirk Martenson
Classic IV
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Stabil in fuel |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David & Maria Lumgair" <dlummy@visi.net>
I have used StaBil in jet ski (rotax engine) for 4 years now - never a
problem. I have also had great success with it in my generator, pressure
washer, lawn mower, and boat at the end of every season. never had a carb
gum up with it. Sure beats pulling the carbs every spring and cleaning the
jets and needle valves. Not sure if there is any truth to it but I've been
told that it is hard on fuel filters, apparently it restricts flow in the
finer ones if left sitting over time - no problem if they are used. I have
in line filters on most of my equip. (not the mower) and have replaced them
or cleaned them (if serviceable) every year and never had a problem. I'm
guessing that the prudent pilot would service his filters at the beginning
of a flying season, I do and see it as cheap insurance.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Standley" <taildragon@msn.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Stabil in fuel
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Roger Standley" <taildragon@msn.com>
>
> Kirk,
>
> What do you mean by "going bad"??
>
> Roger Standley
> IV-1200, 912UL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kirk's Welding
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2004 1:33 PM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Stabil in fuel
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kirk's Welding" <kirk@mninter.net>
>
> Hello:
>
> I have a Rotax 912 powered Kitfox Classic IV. Sometimes the plane will
sit for weeks with auto gas in it. Does anyone that has a Rotax 912 put
Stabil in their fuel to keep it from going bad? If so, any long term
effects?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kirk Martenson
> Classic IV
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: LED Nav lights. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hi Torgier,
I know that this price can be beat. I looked at the
LED replacement units at Pep Boys Auto Parts today and
each "bulb" was about $7 US. Considering that they
will last for a long long time and do not overheat, it
isn't too bad. They do save lots of amps too.
Unfortunately, the automotive ones are too directional
for our use and I could only find them in red today.
This is why I am trying to get Elbie to manufacture us
some direct replacements that meet FAA requirements in
complete or kit form.
(J.C. Whitney has some LED sets running from $10-20
US, but only in red and amber. These use colored
lenses and might have white LED's, but the add doesn't
say so.)
Kurt S.
--- Torgeir Mortensen <torgemor@online.no> wrote:
> <torgemor@online.no>
>
> Don't know the cost, but I'll guess between 30 and
> 40 USD each ??
>
> Torgeir.
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Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Stabil in fuel |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Anderson" <janderson412@hotmail.com>
Another thing re the bolted lower cog Steve, I didn't like the thought of trying
to but up all the surfaces and get them running true. Hence the direction I
went. J
From: "Roger Standley" <TAILDRAGON@MSN.COM>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Stabil in fuel
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Roger Standley" <TAILDRAGON@MSN.COM>
Kirk,
What do you mean by "going bad"??
Roger Standley
IV-1200,912UL
----- Original Message -----
From: Kirk's Welding
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2004 1:33 PM
Subject: Kitfox-List: Stabil in fuel
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kirk's Welding" <KIRK@MNINTER.NET>
Hello:
I have a Rotax 912 powered Kitfox Classic IV.Sometimes the plane will sit for
weeks with auto gas in it.Does anyone that has a Rotax 912 put Stabil in their
fuel to keep it from going bad?If so, any long term effects?
Thanks,
Kirk Martenson
Classic IV
Find your perfect match @ XtraMSN Personals!
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| Subject: | Re: LED Nav lights. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Good morning Torgier,
Since you'll get this the next day....
Elbie has already found a source for some of the
LED/bulb replacements. On the other end of the scale,
my daughter works for Cree Research who is, I believe,
currently the leader in creating LED's. (Leadership
changes as other labs fight for first place.) They
are going up into the UV spectrum now. Unfortunately,
I have not been able to shake her loose as yet to
promote us little guys needs at Cree. I'll keep
working on that.
I have seven engine instruments using LED's right now.
They are more blue (or the incandescents are yellow)
and dimmer, but usable. I am too early into testing
my plane to come to any conclusions on these. My
dream panel would have UV LED's light the face and
switches only making it look like they were floating
in air at night. There would be no distractions,
reflections, or lights in your face.
We can certainly make our own units if needs be, but
everyone would be recreating the wheel on that. A kit
of parts and instructions would be nice, if we can't
get the ready made replacement units.
I have the wing mounted 3 light units: position,
strobe and tail lights. The tail light is the much
smaller unit that may be hard to replace with LED's
due to the small space available. Anyone else with
the same setup would have the same problem and
installing a new LED tail light unit might be the only
solution, if going to all LED's.
My car has the HID lights and they are awesome on high
beam. You need about 3 miles of open road before you
use them though. Too bright for oncoming cars. What
you see at about 300 feet with the normal car lights,
you see at about one mile with HID lights. Some of
the aircraft landing lights last only about 50 hours
of usage. These last about 2000 hours, which is a
heck of a lot of night landings. I don't know if we
will see single landing light setups for under $300
any time soon though. But if you need to save the
amps and fly at night, it can be done.
Kurt S.
--- Torgeir Mortensen <torgemor@online.no> wrote:
> <torgemor@online.no>
>
> Hi Kurt,
>
> Thanks for the flowers.
>
> ...........
> With "just" a little work, I'll think those units is
> easy to make
> yourself.
> ...........
> Here is a good source for LED's to be used for "self
> made" NAV lights.
> Keep in mind, those NAV lights should radiate light
> over a defined
> angle, this according to FAA and alike. I'm sure I
> have a figure about
> this specifications somewhere.
>
> Here is the link for green and blank LED's:
>
>
http://www.lc-led.com/ProductListing.jsp?idDepartment=1
>
> Roll down to you'll see the 60 degree type (green
> 3000 mcd and white
> 2500 mcd).
>
> Here is the link for the red LED's:
>
>
http://www.lc-led.com/ProductListing.jsp?idDepartment=2
>
> Roll down to you'll see the 60 degree type (red 3000
> mcd).
> Did you know
> that the green light is much more comfortable for
> the naked eye than any
> other color? Learned this from the NVG stuff I've
> been working with for
> some time.
>
> For the Xenon landing light, here is a link for "add
> on units" from
> Hella and Phillips:
>
> http://store.yahoo.net/hidfactory/83heblhidkit.html
>
> PS. The price here is for 2 units, in addition
> you'll need the light
> assy as; reflector, glass and light housing.
>
> The unit from hella take 35 Watt, or some 2.5 Amps
> at 13.75 VDC, not
> bad..
>
> Well, I'm not flying night VFR, but a landing light
> is a good "beacon"
> in the pattern.
>
> OK. Now it's time for the bed, -soon.
>
> Cheers
>
> Torgeir.
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