Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:28 AM - Re: Little coolant leak with 912UL (Ceashman@aol.com)
2. 03:59 AM - Re: How to seal the gas line conections. (Ceashman@aol.com)
3. 05:37 AM - Re: Model 3 landing problem (Gary Algate)
4. 05:58 AM - Re: Little coolant leak with 912UL (Clifford Begnaud)
5. 07:05 AM - Attn. Electronics Gurus (Lowell Fitt)
6. 07:55 AM - Fractured Exhaust Pipe on 912S (Bill Hammond)
7. 09:48 AM - Re: Little coolant leak with 912UL (Wwillyard@aol.com)
8. 12:35 PM - Re: Attn. Electronics Gurus (kurt schrader)
9. 02:12 PM - Re: Attn. Electronics Gurus (RiteAngle3@aol.com)
10. 02:36 PM - Re:Cowling mods (Michel Verheughe)
11. 02:40 PM - Kitfox Info-Exchange Board (Wwillyard@aol.com)
12. 08:09 PM - Re: Little coolant leak with 912UL To Clifford (Ceashman@aol.com)
13. 08:44 PM - Re: Fractured Exhaust Pipe on 912S To Bill Hammond (Ceashman@aol.com)
14. 09:08 PM - Re: Little coolant leak with 912UL To W. Willyard (Ceashman@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Little coolant leak with 912UL |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
Good morning, list.
I wonder if anyone can help me out with my latest little problem.
I have a very small coolant leak with the 912 UL!
Where the four hoses come from the "spider tank" and enter the cylinder head
casings, the hoses fit to an elbow tube and these elbow tubes disappear into
the casing with an "oval flange" (marked with the numbers 922 302 and held in
place with 5 mm allen screws). Right at the oval flange is the leak. Which
is enough to drip down and stand around the spark plug.
The question is! is this an easy problem to fix. Do I need to order parts,
like a gasket or "O"ring, if I removed these tubes and try to fix the leak?
Right now, I still fly, but am afraid one day the s--- will hit the fan and
really suck the system dry, at altitude. Not good!
Anyone with experience of this, your ideas are very welcome.
Cheers. Eric Ashman, Classic IV. Atlanta, GA.
e-mail; ceashman@aol.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: How to seal the gas line conections. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
Hi Francisco.
As explained, these fuel fittings do not require any special sealant.
Nevertheless, I always spread a little smear of lube on the thread before
installation. For "anti seize" purposes. I hate it when aluminum to aluminum gets
stuck!
What I use is a a product called E Z Turn Lubricant. You can find it in the
2003 /2004 Aircraft Spruce catalogue, page 323.
Greetings. Eric. Classic IV Atlanta
e-mail; ceashman@aol.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Model 3 landing problem |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
I must admit that I use a three point for most landings (other than floats).
I was taught it use a wheel landing in windy conditions but feel that the
three pointer is more appropriate and safer in my Kitfox
Gary Algate
Lite2/582
>>>>>>>
I have same config as you and one of the things i forgot to check prior
to my test period with my big balloons was the toe in. In my angst to
start flying my new build i hadn't dbl checked that and once corrected
it made a difference.
<<<<<<<<
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Little coolant leak with 912UL |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
Eric,
Is the leak at the junction where the elbow enters the flange, or around the
perimeter of the flange? There's an O-ring there, part # 950180, for the
flange to head junction, but I think that the elbow is threaded and screws
into the flange, but I'm not certain. If it is threaded that should be an
easy fix.
Cliff
> Good morning, list.
>
> I wonder if anyone can help me out with my latest little problem.
> I have a very small coolant leak with the 912 UL!
>
> Where the four hoses come from the "spider tank" and enter the cylinder
head
> casings, the hoses fit to an elbow tube and these elbow tubes disappear
into
> the casing with an "oval flange" (marked with the numbers 922 302 and held
in
> place with 5 mm allen screws). Right at the oval flange is the leak.
Which
> is enough to drip down and stand around the spark plug.
> The question is! is this an easy problem to fix. Do I need to order parts,
> like a gasket or "O"ring, if I removed these tubes and try to fix the
leak?
> Right now, I still fly, but am afraid one day the s--- will hit the fan
and
> really suck the system dry, at altitude. Not good!
>
> Anyone with experience of this, your ideas are very welcome.
>
> Cheers. Eric Ashman, Classic IV. Atlanta, GA.
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Attn. Electronics Gurus |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
I have a video camera mounted on the lift strut of my Model IV. It is hard wired
to the 12 v. system through a factory 12 v adaptor. I would like to eliminate
the camera battery so I can power down without waiting for the auto sleep
mode to kick in. I have wired a switch in the power wiring, but am concerned
about voltage spikes damaging the electronics in the camera. I understand that
the battery when installed will absorb the spikes.
I have submitted a query to Canon's web site, but expect the reply to be generic
and it may take a few days or weeks, I guess
Does anyone have any ideas about just switching on or off without protection?
I have considered wiring a capacitor across the battery terminals. Is his a reasonable
idea and if so what capacitance.
Thanks for any ideas.
Lowell
Message 6
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| Subject: | Fractured Exhaust Pipe on 912S |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Bill Hammond <kitfox@itsys3.com>
Yesterday I found a broken exhaust pipe on my Kitfox Series 6
with the Rotax 912S and a Warp Drive prop. I have uploaded
pictures to the Sportflight site in the Damage/Incidents section.
My engine and exhaust have only been in service 42 hours. The
damage was detected by feeling a vibration in the last flight at
about 4000 rpm and subsequent postflight investigation to find
the crack. The exhaust pipe is completely fractured just above
where the angular brace is welded to it. In addition, one side
of the brace's saddle in neatly fractured along the weld line.
The point where the fracture occurs is inside the lower cowling.
Obviously this could potentially prove dangerous with carbon
monoxide leakage and fire hazard. My airplane is now temporarily
grounded as I have removed the muffler and am sending it to
Skystar for examination and repair.
This muffler was one of those provided with a brace to prevent
the exhaust pipe from cracking off at the joint on the muffler
can. That engineering solution may just have moved the problem
to another spot.
Bill Hammond
N913KF
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Little coolant leak with 912UL |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Wwillyard@aol.com
In a message dated 1/20/2004 6:30:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Ceashman@aol.com writes:
> I have a very small coolant leak with the 912 UL!
>
>
Eric,
The elbow threads into the flange. If the leak is coming from the flange
where the elbow threads into it, then the elbow will have to be removed from the
flange. I repositioned several of these fittings on my 912 to point in a
slightly different direction. First remove the flange and elbow from the engine.
Set the flange on a piece of paper with the elbow facing upward and trace the
shape of the flange and mark the direction that the elbow points as you will
need this for reassembly. Next carefully clamp the flange in the jaws of a
bench vise so that the elbow protrudes away from the vise jaws in a direction
the you can easily apply a counter clockwise rotational force with a small
pliers. The threaded joint must now be heated preferably with a heat gun, but
careful application of heat from a small propane torch will also work. While
heating apply a light rotational force on the elbow. Once the Loctite bond as
been destroyed by the heat the elbow will turn with very little effort, thus not
damaging or distorting either part.
Now that the two parts are separated, clean the threads carefully with a
small wire brush to remove the now powdered Loctite. Clean and degrease both
parts in alcohol or similar solvent. Apply Loctite # 609 (recommended by Rotax)
to the male thread and turn it back into the flange. I found it best to have
the flange horizontal with the elbow facing upward. I let mine stand overnight
before reinstallation. I had no problems with any leakage.
I did have a leakage problem that appeared to be at one of these threaded
flange joints but it turned out to be a very small groove that ran length wise
on
the lower side of the elbow and would not allow the rubber hose to seal no
matter how tight the hose clamp. A new elbow installed into the old flange
solved this problem.
I hope this lengthy explanation does not scare you off. It is really quite
easy. Coming up with Loctite # 609 with be the most difficult task.
William Willyard
Classic IV N20736
Grandville, MI
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Attn. Electronics Gurus |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hi Lowell,
You should get some good ideas on this.
For my 2 cents, the worst spikes you will get are
during engine start, so make sure your camera is off
then. In fact, all radios and sensitive equipment
should always be off during starting in your plane and
car too. There are some massive spikes there for 12
volts systems.
Second, the cleanest power would come hot off the
aircraft battery, so it would help for you to wire
seperately and directly from the battery terminals
thru your fuse, plug and switch to the camera.
Third, if there are any local gurus there for you,
they can put a scope across the power terminals while
you run the plane to see any problems. Another way to
check is to jump wire an old speaker/headset across
the terminals with a dropping resister in series and
hear it. Crackle = bad. Light hiss or no noise = OK.
Don't put all 12 volts directly across a speaker
though. It'll blow. You need the resister. I'd
start with 1000 ohms. If that is too quiet, try 500,
minimum 100 ohms. Then see or hear what it looks like
when running.
The camera may not be that sensitive, so even a spark
coil capacitor might be enough with what you've got.
The camera manufacturer should tell you and be
consevative too. They may go from experience
operating off of car cigarette lighters. But if you
see any "noise" on the video, you still need more
filtration.
Fourth, you can use one of those Radio Shack filters
to smooth out the power. It can be wired inside the
plane at say, the back of the power plug, to your
camera. The filters are pretty big, a coil and a
capacitor, so it would do to keep that inside rather
than at the camera. The aircraft battery electric
system is not going to get much cleaner than that, as
far as I can figure.
That just barely comes up to 2 cents, I suppose...
Kurt S.
--- Lowell Fitt <lcfitt@inreach.com> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt"
> <lcfitt@inreach.com>
>
> I have a video camera mounted on the lift strut of
> my Model IV. It is hard wired to the 12 v. system
> through a factory 12 v adaptor. I would like to
> eliminate the camera battery so I can power down
> without waiting for the auto sleep mode to kick in.
> ..........
> Does anyone have any ideas about just switching on
> or off without protection? I have considered wiring
> a capacitor across the battery terminals. Is his a
> reasonable idea, and if so, what capacitance.
>
> Thanks for any ideas.
>
> Lowell
__________________________________
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Attn. Electronics Gurus |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: RiteAngle3@aol.com
Kurt wrote:
For my 2 cents, the worst spikes you will get are
during engine start, so make sure your camera is off
then. In fact, all radios and sensitive equipment
should always be off during starting in your plane and
car too. There are some massive spikes there for 12
volts systems.
I'm not an electronic guru, however,
I agree with Kurt 100%! The only RiteAngle we have received back
which actually had an electrical problem was one where the owner didn't have
an on/off switch on the system as we recommend. (It wasn't a KitFox) After
about 2 years of flying it and literally hundreds of startups it finally happened
and he is a firm believer in following recommendations that the system be off
for all startups and shutdowns. Thankfully we were able to reprogram the
system and it was back in use in three days after we received it. The returns
are due to customer not reading instructions, systems check out perfect, except
for that one!
Elbie
Elbie Mendenhall
President
EM aviation, LLC
www.riteangle.com
Message 10
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Lowell Fitt wrote:
> To lengthen the cowl:
<SNIP>
Thanks, Lowell. If I understand you correctly, it is more a plastic thing
rather than structural, then. Or is it for the air flow?
I think I can handle the plastic surgery thing. One thing, though, the cowling
is in epoxy and not polyester, right?
Cheers,
Michel
Message 11
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| Subject: | Kitfox Info-Exchange Board |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Wwillyard@aol.com
SkyStar has added a Kitfox Info-Exchange Board to their web site. It will be
interesting see how this goes.
http://skystar.com/disc6_toc.htm
William Willyard
Classic IV N20736
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Little coolant leak with 912UL To Clifford |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
Hi Clifford.
It looks like it is between the tube and the flange.
Hard to say really. But that is where the leak seems to be coming from.
Eric.
e-mail; ceashman@aol.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Fractured Exhaust Pipe on 912S To Bill Hammond |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
I looked at your photo's Bill.
Commiseration's. It looks like some "bad stainless" or the wrong stainless,
someone is using. Really, I don't know, only that it sucks.
I had a similar problem a couple of weeks ago. With the old style (no
reinforcement bracket) Had a lot of help from you guys (thanks guys) at the list
and
even had a picture of the gusset sent and a Skystar site that I could see the
improved muffler.
That picture helped tremendously.
I called Skystar didn't get much help there_ they wanted me to purchase a
new, new style, muffler and I had to send my headers so they could "fit" the
system together. They said they fill the muffler with a shielding gas and of
course, use a shielded TIG welder. Not much shielding going on there with yours
Bill!
I floundered for a couple of minutes and decided to gas weld in my own
supportive gusset per suggestions and ideas from pictures. Hey! it ain't stainless
but it works until it falls apart. When that happens, then I'll spend more
money on a new one.
If the automotive industry were having the muffler problem the car company
would have a free recall on the offending component!
Regards. Eric. Classic IV, Atlanta
e-mail; ceashman@aol.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Little coolant leak with 912UL To W. Willyard |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
Dear William.
It is late at night here in Atlanta and my wife would definitely think I am
losing it if I went over to the barn at this hour. But I feel it is coming from
the area where the elbow travels through the flange. Only a little dribble,
but everytime I look at it, it makes you worry and wonder when it will get
worse.
William. You do not have to concern yourself about the very detailed
explanation. No, it does not scare me off. In fact, it allows me more confidence
to
handle the task.
As soon as I get my hands on some Loctite #609 (ha, ha).
Gratefully. Eric. Classic IV, N893
e-mail; ceashman@aol.com
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