Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:01 AM - Re: Fractured Exhaust Pipe on 912S (dmorisse)
2. 05:35 AM - Landing problem (Lmar@direcway.com)
3. 06:42 AM - Re: Re:Cowling mods (Lowell Fitt)
4. 06:53 AM - Re: Attn. Electronics Gurus (Lowell Fitt)
5. 06:53 AM - Re: Little coolant leak with 912UL To W. Willyard (Lowell Fitt)
6. 02:27 PM - Re: Re:Cowling mods (Michel Verheughe)
7. 02:28 PM - Toe in WAS: Landing problem (Michel Verheughe)
8. 02:39 PM - Engine choice (Ron)
9. 05:28 PM - Re: Toe in WAS: Landing problem (Bruce Harrington)
10. 05:58 PM - Re: Toe in WAS: Landing problem (John Balunda)
11. 06:51 PM - Re: Toe in WAS: Landing problem (David & Maria Lumgair)
12. 07:15 PM - Re: Little coolant leak with 912UL (KITFOXPILOT@att.net)
13. 09:13 PM - Re: Toe in WAS: Landing problem (gjglh@itlnet.net)
14. 09:17 PM - Re: Toe in WAS: Landing problem (Dave & Wendy Grosvenor)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fractured Exhaust Pipe on 912S |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "dmorisse" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Wow, what a mess! That could have ended your day on a very bad note.
Great pics and thanks for sharing them with the list.
In my opinion, with only 42 hours in service, Skystar should be doing the
honorable thing and make it right for you. I can't see where there is much
more that needs to be said.
Darrel
'
> Yesterday I found a broken exhaust pipe on my Kitfox Series 6
> with the Rotax 912S and a Warp Drive prop. I have uploaded
> pictures to the Sportflight site in the Damage/Incidents section.
>
snip...
Message 2
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TO_ADDRESS_EQ_REAL
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lmar@direcway.com
Ron,
Have you checked your wheels for toe in? Mine looked ok, but as I was putting
on skis last week, it became evident that I had toe in. I measured and found
it to be 2* toe in. The airplane should have some toe out, or at worst even
to reduce the ground loop tendencies.
Larry
Message 3
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
I used Epoxy for ease of use. The modifications were only to make it longer
and move the exhaust exit hole, No other mods were necessary. I don't know
what the original material is. You will find out what you have by the smell
generated when you scarf the original part.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Verheughe" <michel@online.no>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Re:Cowling mods
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
> Lowell Fitt wrote:
> > To lengthen the cowl:
> <SNIP>
>
> Thanks, Lowell. If I understand you correctly, it is more a plastic thing
> rather than structural, then. Or is it for the air flow?
> I think I can handle the plastic surgery thing. One thing, though, the
cowling
> is in epoxy and not polyester, right?
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Attn. Electronics Gurus |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Kurt and Elbie, Thanks fro your responses. I gave me some ideas. I did
get a reply from Canon and they seemed more concerned with the tape head
winding down on the tape than electronic issues. What I want to avoid with
the switch is the numerous 5 minute waits for sleep mode shutdown which I
feel would damage the tape head more than simply having the tape rest
against it with a power off shutdown.
loewll
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Little coolant leak with 912UL To W. Willyard |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Eric, First try tightening the hose clamp if you haven't already tried
that. Sometimes a hose connection leak can dribble down to the first hard
junction and give the impression the leak is there.
Hopefully,
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: <Ceashman@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Little coolant leak with 912UL To W. Willyard
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Ceashman@aol.com
>
>
> Dear William.
>
> It is late at night here in Atlanta and my wife would definitely think I
am
> losing it if I went over to the barn at this hour. But I feel it is coming
from
> the area where the elbow travels through the flange. Only a little
dribble,
> but everytime I look at it, it makes you worry and wonder when it will get
> worse.
>
> William. You do not have to concern yourself about the very detailed
> explanation. No, it does not scare me off. In fact, it allows me more
confidence to
> handle the task.
> As soon as I get my hands on some Loctite #609 (ha, ha).
>
> Gratefully. Eric. Classic IV, N893
>
> e-mail; ceashman@aol.com
>
>
Message 6
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Lowell Fitt wrote:
> I used Epoxy for ease of use.
... and the fumes are less toxic.
Thanks again, Lowell. I still have one year before deciding which engine to
have but now, I know a bit better what a different engine involves.
Cheers,
Michel
Message 7
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| Subject: | Toe in WAS: Landing problem |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Lmar@direcway.com wrote:
> I measured and found it to be 2* toe in.
How do you measure it and what is "2*" Larry?
Thanks,
Michel
do not archive
Message 8
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron" <rliebmann@comcast.net>
Hello Listers,
I have a Model 5 which I will rebuild in the future and I'm considering a
C-85 with starter and alternator. Has anyone heard of a C-85 in a Kitfox?
Thanks, Ron N55KF
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Toe in WAS: Landing problem |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrington" <aerowood@mcsi.net>
Big carpenter square with 1x2 wood strip taped to it, held against one rim with
stick against other . Measure distance from stick to where square is, or stick
to other tire . Repeat for other side. Zero toe-in is when the stick touches
both tires with square against a rim. Slight toe-in is when there is a gap
between stick and tire at square. If gap is different between sides, then
landings will be exciting. Some people want a slight toe-in, others zero or
toe-out. Make both sides equal.
2* probably means 2 degrees.
Cheers, bh
> How do you measure it and what is "2*" Larry?
> Thanks,
>
> Michel
>
> do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Toe in WAS: Landing problem |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Balunda" <JohnCA58@pacbell.net>
The easiest way to measure your toe-in is to raise each tire and rotate the
tire and mark it with a chalk line all the way around in the middle of the
tire , then get a tape and measure the back from line to line and then the
front line to line, it is best to have a shorter line in front of about
one-eight of a inch for some friction from the tires and should be even when
rolling down the runway.
John
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrington" <aerowood@mcsi.net>
>
> Big carpenter square with 1x2 wood strip taped to it, held against one rim
with
> stick against other . Measure distance from stick to where square is, or
stick
> to other tire . Repeat for other side. Zero toe-in is when the stick
touches
> both tires with square against a rim. Slight toe-in is when there is a
gap
> between stick and tire at square. If gap is different between sides, then
> landings will be exciting. Some people want a slight toe-in, others zero
or
> toe-out. Make both sides equal.
>
> 2* probably means 2 degrees.
>
> Cheers, bh
>
> > How do you measure it and what is "2*" Larry?
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Michel
> >
> > do not archive
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Toe in WAS: Landing problem |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David & Maria Lumgair" <dlummy@visi.net>
I disagreee. The EASIEST way to check toe is to take 2 8' 2x4's - mark
them at the four foot mark, lay them on the ground with the 4' mark center
of the axle, one each side. Them measuer the distance between the front and
rear ends on each side.
Rude diagram:
I <-----Measure A -----> I
I I
I I
IO-------WHEELS--------OI
I I
I I
I <-----Measure B -----> I
The I's represent boards.
IF Measurement A > B then you have toe out.
IF Measurement B > A then you have toe in.
Dave
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Balunda" <JohnCA58@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Toe in WAS: Landing problem
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Balunda" <JohnCA58@pacbell.net>
>
> The easiest way to measure your toe-in is to raise each tire and rotate
the
> tire and mark it with a chalk line all the way around in the middle of the
> tire , then get a tape and measure the back from line to line and then
the
> front line to line, it is best to have a shorter line in front of about
> one-eight of a inch for some friction from the tires and should be even
when
> rolling down the runway.
>
> John
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrington"
<aerowood@mcsi.net>
> >
> > Big carpenter square with 1x2 wood strip taped to it, held against one
rim
> with
> > stick against other . Measure distance from stick to where square is,
or
> stick
> > to other tire . Repeat for other side. Zero toe-in is when the stick
> touches
> > both tires with square against a rim. Slight toe-in is when there is a
> gap
> > between stick and tire at square. If gap is different between sides,
then
> > landings will be exciting. Some people want a slight toe-in, others
zero
> or
> > toe-out. Make both sides equal.
> >
> > 2* probably means 2 degrees.
> >
> > Cheers, bh
> >
> > > How do you measure it and what is "2*" Larry?
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Michel
> > >
> > > do not archive
> >
> >
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Little coolant leak with 912UL |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: KITFOXPILOT@att.net
I thought I had the same problem, but before you remove the flange, check the
hose clamp! I found that vibration made the clamp loose. All I did was make
the clamp a little more tight and the problem was fixed.
Ray
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Wwillyard@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 1/20/2004 6:30:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> Ceashman@aol.com writes:
>
>
> > I have a very small coolant leak with the 912 UL!
> >
> >
>
> Eric,
>
> The elbow threads into the flange. If the leak is coming from the flange
> where the elbow threads into it, then the elbow will have to be removed from
the
> flange. I repositioned several of these fittings on my 912 to point in a
> slightly different direction. First remove the flange and elbow from the
> engine.
> Set the flange on a piece of paper with the elbow facing upward and trace the
> shape of the flange and mark the direction that the elbow points as you will
> need this for reassembly. Next carefully clamp the flange in the jaws of a
> bench vise so that the elbow protrudes away from the vise jaws in a direction
> the you can easily apply a counter clockwise rotational force with a small
> pliers. The threaded joint must now be heated preferably with a heat gun, but
> careful application of heat from a small propane torch will also work. While
> heating apply a light rotational force on the elbow. Once the Loctite bond as
> been destroyed by the heat the elbow will turn with very little effort, thus
not
> damaging or distorting either part.
>
> Now that the two parts are separated, clean the threads carefully with a
> small wire brush to remove the now powdered Loctite. Clean and degrease both
> parts in alcohol or similar solvent. Apply Loctite # 609 (recommended by Rotax)
> to the male thread and turn it back into the flange. I found it best to have
> the flange horizontal with the elbow facing upward. I let mine stand overnight
> before reinstallation. I had no problems with any leakage.
>
> I did have a leakage problem that appeared to be at one of these threaded
> flange joints but it turned out to be a very small groove that ran length wise
> on
> the lower side of the elbow and would not allow the rubber hose to seal no
> matter how tight the hose clamp. A new elbow installed into the old flange
> solved this problem.
>
> I hope this lengthy explanation does not scare you off. It is really quite
> easy. Coming up with Loctite # 609 with be the most difficult task.
>
> William Willyard
> Classic IV N20736
> Grandville, MI
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Toe in WAS: Landing problem |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: gjglh@itlnet.net
That's all great 1 deg = approx. .017/in, 2 deg. = .035/in
what if one tire is in and one out?? There could be many variables
measuring between tires that will not give you a true picture
---- Original Message ----
From: JohnCA58@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Toe in WAS: Landing problem
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Balunda"
><JohnCA58@pacbell.net>
>
>The easiest way to measure your toe-in is to raise each tire and
>rotate the
>tire and mark it with a chalk line all the way around in the middle
>of the
>tire , then get a tape and measure the back from line to line and
>then the
>front line to line, it is best to have a shorter line in front of
>about
>one-eight of a inch for some friction from the tires and should be
>even when
>rolling down the runway.
>
>John
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrington"
><aerowood@mcsi.net>
>>
>> Big carpenter square with 1x2 wood strip taped to it, held against
>one rim
>with
>> stick against other . Measure distance from stick to where square
>is, or
>stick
>> to other tire . Repeat for other side. Zero toe-in is when the
>stick
>touches
>> both tires with square against a rim. Slight toe-in is when there
>is a
>gap
>> between stick and tire at square. If gap is different between
>sides, then
>> landings will be exciting. Some people want a slight toe-in,
>others zero
>or
>> toe-out. Make both sides equal.
>>
>> 2* probably means 2 degrees.
>>
>> Cheers, bh
>>
>> > How do you measure it and what is "2*" Larry?
>> > Thanks,
>> >
>> > Michel
>> >
>> > do not archive
>>
>>
>
>
>=====
>=====
>=====
>=====
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Toe in WAS: Landing problem |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave & Wendy Grosvenor" <dwg@iafrica.com>
It's also worth remembering that this angle might change when you load the
airplane up to gross weight. It might also change in the tail high
position. Someone once suggested that you put each main wheel on a pair of
12"x12" steel plates with a layer of grease between the plates. Then load
the airplane to gross. The plates will allow the wheels to find the natural
position they would if the airplane was rolling down the runway. You can
choose whether you want to set it tail up or down, or check both positions.
I followed a long heated debate on rec-aviation-homebuilt about toe in vs
toe out. The outcome of the debate was that the best bet is toe out or zero
toe. When your airplane swerves on the runway, the wheel on the outside of
the turn is pushed hard onto the ground and becomes the wheel responsible
for where you go from there. If this wheel has toe in, it will try to turn
you into the turn more, aggravating the situation. Is it has toe out, it
will try to correct the turn. The disadvantage of toe out is additional
tire wear, so zero toe might be better.
I still need to do this excercise. I'm sure my alignment is out but I'm
operating off grass at the moment and it's quite forgiving.
Cheers
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "David & Maria Lumgair" <dlummy@visi.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Toe in WAS: Landing problem
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "David & Maria Lumgair" <dlummy@visi.net>
I disagreee. The EASIEST way to check toe is to take 2 8' 2x4's - mark
them at the four foot mark, lay them on the ground with the 4' mark center
of the axle, one each side. Them measuer the distance between the front and
rear ends on each side.
Rude diagram:
I <-----Measure A -----> I
I I
I I
IO-------WHEELS--------OI
I I
I I
I <-----Measure B -----> I
The I's represent boards.
IF Measurement A > B then you have toe out.
IF Measurement B > A then you have toe in.
Dave
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Balunda" <JohnCA58@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Toe in WAS: Landing problem
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Balunda" <JohnCA58@pacbell.net>
>
> The easiest way to measure your toe-in is to raise each tire and rotate
the
> tire and mark it with a chalk line all the way around in the middle of the
> tire , then get a tape and measure the back from line to line and then
the
> front line to line, it is best to have a shorter line in front of about
> one-eight of a inch for some friction from the tires and should be even
when
> rolling down the runway.
>
> John
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrington"
<aerowood@mcsi.net>
> >
> > Big carpenter square with 1x2 wood strip taped to it, held against one
rim
> with
> > stick against other . Measure distance from stick to where square is,
or
> stick
> > to other tire . Repeat for other side. Zero toe-in is when the stick
> touches
> > both tires with square against a rim. Slight toe-in is when there is a
> gap
> > between stick and tire at square. If gap is different between sides,
then
> > landings will be exciting. Some people want a slight toe-in, others
zero
> or
> > toe-out. Make both sides equal.
> >
> > 2* probably means 2 degrees.
> >
> > Cheers, bh
> >
> > > How do you measure it and what is "2*" Larry?
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Michel
> > >
> > > do not archive
> >
> >
>
>
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