Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:25 AM - Re: Flap handle (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
2. 05:10 AM - IO240 vs Rotax 914 Performance comparison (Paul Seehafer)
3. 06:04 AM - Re: Flap handle (Tom Jones)
4. 06:26 AM - Re: Flap handle (Lowell Fitt)
5. 08:02 AM - Re: Low Fuel Level Indicator (jareds)
6. 08:02 AM - Re: Low Fuel Level Indicator (jareds)
7. 08:29 AM - Re: Anti freeze in aluminum engine ()
8. 09:51 AM - Re: Flap handle (Bruce Harrington)
9. 12:29 PM - Re: Static port (Michel Verheughe)
Message 1
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 2/27/04 1:55:56 PM Pacific Standard Time, bill77@cox.net
writes:
> Builders,
> I'm just getting going on a Modle IV, so I'm a long way from any
> rigging, etc., but I was wondering where is the flap handle positioned with 0
flaps
> and where is it with full flaps? I'm considering a narrow center console
> which would require a slight jog in the handle. Thanks.
> Bill
>
>
Bill,
0 flaps is all the way fwd/down. Full flaps is all the way back/up. The
flap handle will rest on the control tube at 0 flaps.
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 2
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| Subject: | IO240 vs Rotax 914 Performance comparison |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Paul Seehafer" <av8rps@tznet.com>
Hi Gang:
Was browsing through an old magazine article about the one-off Kitfox
Biplane, and stumbled upon a short article about a flight test between a
Kitfox equipped with a Continental IO-240 and a Rotax 914 in the back of the
same magazine. Thought it was pretty interesting. Might even help some
trying to decide on an engine choice? So here it is word for word:
"Kitfox 914 / Kitfox 240 Flight Tests" (U.S. Aviator December 1995)
Recent test-flight experiences allowed us to be the first magazine
(ahem...as usual) to compare the Continental IO-240 powered Kitfox to the
Rotax Turbocharged 914 version. We had flown the IO-240 powered Kitfox at
Sun-N-Fun and were surprised to see how little the extra weight impacted the
light handling and harmonies of the standard Model V Kitfox. Top speeds
seen were in the 140 mph range and claimed top speeds of 150+ mph seemed
quite reasonable from what we saw. The additional weight did give a
slightly more ponderous feel to the "Fox" but the overall handling was only
modestly impacted by the heavier four-banging 125 hp Continental.
However, the gang at Rotax was kind enough to fly a new Rotax 914 powered
Kitfox to our office to show off, and despite the fact that the 914
supposedly provides a few less horses (100 hp continuously and 115 at
take-off, restricted to five minute intervals), the Kitfox 914 has mucho
guts and lots of cruise speed. To make a long story short, the 914 powered
Fox keeps up with the IO-240 in every respect and outclimbs it, to boot.
While the IO-240 ship seems pretty settled in its way at 1200 to 1300 fpm in
climb (max observed), the lighter 914 powered bird easily maintains a solid
1500 to 1600 fpm throughout climbs to 6500'.
Top speeds are in a similar range... close to 150 mph true but 135-140 in
cruise. What is most impressive about the 914 though, is the fact that the
engine is truly a product of the 1990's... rather than a WWII technology
retread. The 914 can be equipped with a fully computer controlled
monitoring system that will monitor critical engine parameters, actually
keeping the engine from exceeding several of them, and keep a record of
everything that has happened. This record can be downloaded to Rotax's
slick little FLYDAT system and then output to any computer printer via a
parallel cable. I saw the system in operation and I have to admit, I'm
impressed.
Now... both engines are gonna be pretty pricey... but in the case of the
914, I have to say that for a change, the extra cost would seem to be worth
it. I'll be doing a lot more research into this engine in the future, I
promise.
Message 3
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Tom Jones <fire_n_ice@direcway.com>
Bill,
It's easy to get distracted with fancy ad ons early in the building process.
Then come weight and balance time you may wish you had not. Save an ounce a
day.
Tom Jones, Classic 4, 503 Rotax, 546 heavy pounds
> Builders,
> I'm just getting going on a Modle IV, so I'm a long way from any
rigging, etc., but I was wondering where is the flap handle positioned with
0 flaps and where is it with full flaps? I'm considering a narrow center
console which would require a slight jog in the handle. Thanks.
> Bill
Message 4
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Bill, I don't think it will be possible to give the position you want
exactly. In order for you to be able to cut a slot the right length, you
will have to finish your rigging and see where it is in your airplane.
Lowell
> Bill Pleso wrote:
>
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bill Pleso" <bill77@cox.net>
> >
> >Builders,
> > I'm just getting going on a Modle IV, so I'm a long way from any
rigging, etc., but I was wondering where is the flap handle positioned with
0 flaps and where is it with full flaps? I'm considering a narrow center
console which would require a slight jog in the handle. Thanks.
> >Bill
> >
> >Do Not Archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Low Fuel Level Indicator |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
Pete,
Only in severe turbulence does my light come on using the top insert.
The only other time was when i didnt have my fuel lines routed exactly
downhill, then it wasn't staying filled completely.
Peter Brookes wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Peter Brookes" <pdbrookes@blueyonder.co.uk>
>
>I am installing this sensor in my rear header tank, but I have two options. Install
in top brass insert and risk false alarms from the small amount of air trapped
in the top of the header tank (as the vent brass insert extends into the
tank a bit), or take the lower brass insert ( about 2" below) and lose a few
minutes of warning. It's the new moulded rear tank as fitted to series 5 and
Lite Sqd.
>
>Anyone got any suggestions?
>
>
>Pete.
>Kitfox II 582
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Low Fuel Level Indicator |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
Good point lowell!!
ME too!
Lowell Fitt wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
>
>Peter, I have been working on a "back yard" low fuel sensor that is in the
>vent line. It allows for all the header tank fuel. Because the fuel in the
>lines will move - trans feed in uncoordinated flight, I have always had
>occasional false indications. Lately, these have been nonexistent, and
>since the false warnings have been my way of verifying the operation of the
>sensor, I am now wondering if it is "armed".
>
>In other words, the high position could give false low fuel alarms from time
>to time, but they would verify that the system is working. They would be of
>short duration. A prolonged light would indicate a fuel flow problem. You
>might try it both ways if possible and see which suits your personal
>preferences.
>
>Lowell
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Peter Brookes" <pdbrookes@blueyonder.co.uk>
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Low Fuel Level Indicator
>
>
>
>
>>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Peter Brookes"
>>
>>
><pdbrookes@blueyonder.co.uk>
>
>
>>I am installing this sensor in my rear header tank, but I have two
>>
>>
>options. Install in top brass insert and risk false alarms from the small
>amount of air trapped in the top of the header tank (as the vent brass
>insert extends into the tank a bit), or take the lower brass insert ( about
>2" below) and lose a few minutes of warning. It's the new moulded rear tank
>as fitted to series 5 and Lite Sqd.
>
>
>>Anyone got any suggestions?
>>
>>
>>Pete.
>>Kitfox II 582
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Anti freeze in aluminum engine |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: <rex@awarenest.com>
Just to add my 2 cents worth. I've seen the crystline
growth on an old 1948 Plymouth radiator hose that was
seeping so it couldn't have been Aluminum and it was the
green coolant. About coolant colors: I believe the orange
is the stuff that's claimed to be good for 5 years from
multiple makers. I've beeb using the Havoline in my cars
and motorcycle. I like the extra life without extra cost.
I also believe most coolants are made to be safe in
alumium, just be sure that it is also phosphate free,
Havoline is.
Rex
On Fri, 27 Feb 2004 21:24:05 -0800 (PST)
kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com> wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
><smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
>Thanks Darrel,
>
>If it was a crystal and not powdery, I think it was
>probably from the mixture. Aluminum powder might
>indicate that the metal is breaking down thru
>electrolosis/corrosion. Better to have a build up
>than a corrode down.
>
>Did you use distilled water? Even that is not pure,
>but it is the best I have found commonly avilable.
>
>I think I have seen the stuff you are talking about
>often in automotive radiators. You might look into
>your radiator hose connections and under the radiator
>cap in the resevoir to see if there is any buildup
>there. If not, you should be good.
>
>Kurt S.
>
>--- Fox5flyer <morid@northland.lib.mi.us> wrote:
>>
>> It's the orange stuff Kurt. I think it was Dexcool
>> by Havaline, or something like that, but it was
>> definitely orange. Not real sure about the
>> brand though because it's been in there a couple
>> years. I just bought a gallon of Prestone's best
>> 5year/150,000mile geewizgreatstuff. What puzzles
>> me is what that gritty crystallized substance was.
>> Calcium or some other mineral from the water maybe?
>> Darrel
>>
>> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
>> <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>> >
>> > Hi Darrel,
>> >
>> > Lance says, "Any premium brand of
>> antifreeze/coolant
>> > with additives to protect against corrosion is
>> > acceptable. The ethylene glycol...mixed
>> 50/50...".
>> >
>> > Which brand did you use? Maybe I need to change
>> mine
>> > too. I forgot which one I used, but it is green.
>> >
>> > Kurt S.
Message 8
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrington" <aerowood@mcsi.net>
Hi Bill,
Full flaps is with the handle against the seat.
0 flaps can only be determined after rigging.
Then it's when the flap cord is level with the wing cord,
which is determined during rigging flaps. For my
old IV-1200, 0 flaps was not all the way forward.
I had my flaps rigged so I could get negative flap for slow flight.
I did this with a stop on the diagonal tube.
bh
ex-N194KF, 582ed IV-1200, 800+ hrs
> Builders,
> I'm just getting going on a Modle IV, so I'm a long way from any rigging,
etc., but I was wondering where is the flap handle positioned with 0 flaps and
where is it with full flaps? I'm considering a narrow center console which
would require a slight jog in the handle. Thanks.
> Bill
Message 9
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Thanks Darrel and Kurt.
kurt schrader wrote:
> I think that as long as your airspeed reads
> consistantly and is correctable, that is not much of a
> problem. But your altimeter and encoder keep you
> above the ground and away from other aircraft.
I tend to agree with that, Kurt. I'll do a low pass test as soon as possible.
Today it was snowing, tomorrow will be sunshine. But I am not sure I'll be able
to fly. Today I tried to open the hangar's door and they are frozen on the
ground. There is a drain from the roof going right outside the hangar and all
the snow melting has turned into water, then to ice. Let's see if the sun
manages to melt it tomorrow.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
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