Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:49 AM - 618 and 582 (blue top) exhaust (Patricia Truter)
2. 01:55 AM - Re: Plastic Raditor elbow connector?: (broschart)
3. 04:24 AM - Re: plastic radiator elbows (Rick)
4. 04:56 AM - M4 bungee (Dave & Wendy Grosvenor)
5. 05:01 AM - Instrument Panel (DPREMGOOD@aol.com)
6. 06:24 AM - Re: I have the Cowling bluess!! (Dave Wahlquist)
7. 06:36 AM - Re: Re: Door air vents (W Duke)
8. 08:36 AM - Re: Instrument Panel (Randy Daughenbaugh)
9. 11:19 AM - Re: 618 and 582 (blue top) exhaust (kurt schrader)
10. 12:27 PM - elect. drawing (Glenn Horne)
11. 04:21 PM - Re: Doors (Dcecil3@aol.com)
12. 04:24 PM - Re: Re: Door air vents (Ronald K. Stevens)
13. 04:33 PM - Re: Re: Door air vents (Marc Arseneault)
14. 05:33 PM - Re: I have the Cowling bluess!! (Dave Savener)
15. 05:33 PM - Ethanol Autogas in Tanks (Chuck & Deanna Schieffer)
16. 05:35 PM - Re: Re: Door air vents (Rick)
17. 06:00 PM - Re: Ethanol Autogas in Tanks (Rick)
18. 06:34 PM - Re: plastic radiator elbows (Wwillyard@aol.com)
19. 07:36 PM - Re: elect. drawing (Randy Daughenbaugh)
20. 09:20 PM - Re: Ethanol Autogas in Tanks (daniel johnson)
21. 09:21 PM - Re: Ethanol Autogas in Tanks (daniel johnson)
22. 09:35 PM - Re: plastic radiator elbows (jimshumaker)
23. 10:15 PM - Re: Re: Instrument Panel (DPREMGOOD@aol.com)
24. 10:16 PM - Re: Sport Pilot rating (Michael Gibbs)
Message 1
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| Subject: | 618 and 582 (blue top) exhaust |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Patricia Truter" <PTruter@csir.co.za>
The guy that built our KF II / 618 (we bought it with 50 min on the
hobbs), by sheer ignorance, removed a total of ~10in (compared to the
standard side-mount-and-elbow configuration) to be able to fit it inside
the cowls! The performance was 'bad'/poor!We then put the missing pieces
back to get to the specified (original) length and the result was:
EXCEPTIONAL performance! Airfield at altitude 4,600 ft, OAT at 70+ deg,
2 up we got 800+ fpm climbing rate. These figures cannot remotely be
compared to what was the case when we flew with the shortened exhaust!!
After we had all the troubles with the 618, we bought a brand new 582
(blue top), and we "fold the exhaust up" to fit the standard exhaust
length into the cowls with good results and performance. I will take
some pics this weekend to send you this weekend.
Patricia
>>> dpurdy@comteck.com 2004-03-02 >>>
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: dwight purdy < dpurdy@comteck.com >
I would like to see a picture. Can you tell us how much we need to put
back?
Dwight
At 04:19 PM 3/1/2004 +0200, you wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Patricia Truter" <
PTruter@csir.co.za >
>
>We have managed to 'fold' up the exhaust (without reducing the
length)
>of the 618 and the 582 (blue top) to fit into the KitFox II Cowls. If
>you want pictures, please let me know.
>
>Patricia
> >>> dpurdy@comteck.com 2004-02-22 >>>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: dwight purdy < dpurdy@comteck.com
>
>
>I am flying 2 blade IVO on a Model II 503. It is only a 61 in. Due to
>the
>reduced hp.caused by the shortened exhaust I had to crank pitch out
>when
>used as a three blade. Very slow but smooth. As a two blade I have
the
>
>pitch cranked up to almost max. Not as smooth but much better cruise.
>Has anyone ever come up with a good way to get the exhaust back up to
>Rotax specs. for the model 1thru 3?
>
>Dwight
>
>
>At 03:25 PM 2/20/2004 -0800, you wrote:
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <
> algate@attglobal.net >
> >
> >John
> >
> >The noise drop inside my plane was so apparent that everybody that
>flew in
> >it before has commented. I went from a 3 blade Ultralight IVOprop to
a
>2
> >blade Medium Ivoprop which is considerably wider in chord and much
>more
> >robust.
> >
> >Maybe that is the reason for the noise reduction - I'm not sure but
>even my
> >radio works better now with the quieter cabin.
> >
> >regards
> >
> >Gary Algate
> >Lite2/582
> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "JMCBEAN" < JDMCBEAN@cableone.net
> >
> >
> >As a general rule... a 3 blade prop will be quieter and will climb
>better.
> >A two blade will cruise better and be more efficient. This is
>providing
> >one is comparing similar props.
> >
> >Blue Skies!!
> >John & Debra McBean
> >"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
> ><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
> >
> >
>
>
>--
>dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
>believed to be clean.
>MailScanner thanks transtec Computers for their support.
>
>
--
dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.
MailScanner thanks transtec Computers for their support.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Plastic Raditor elbow connector?: Kitfox-List: |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: broschart <cfbflyer@localnet.com>
you can remove the insulation from a length of wire and wrap it around
the end of the copper fitting, then solder it in place and you have a
rib of your choice of size
Have a good day - Charlie
Marc Arseneault wrote:
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Marc Arseneault" <northernultralights@hotmail.com>
>
> The only concern that was brought up on the copper elbows as I have some of those
on my plane also is that they aren't ribbed therefore the hose could slide/come
off.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Marc Arseneault
> Ontario Canada
>
> From: Jim Burke <JEBURKE94JE@DIRECWAY.COM>Reply-To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: Plastic Raditor elbow connector?:
Kitfox-List: Date: Mon, 08 Mar 2004 17:19:40 -0500 -- Kitfox-List message posted
by: Jim Burke <JEBURKE94JE@DIRECWAY.COM>You can pick up copper elbows at your
local HVAC supply house or at a plumbing supply. James E. Burke (N94JE) -------Original
Message------- From: kitfox-list@matronics.com Date: 3/8/2004 3:33:41
PM To: 'kitfox-list@matronics.com' Subject: Plastic Raditor elbow connector?:
Kitfox-List: -- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Harris, Robert" <ROBERT_HARRIS@INTUIT
com>Is it okay to use plastic radiato
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | plastic radiator elbows |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
Are we certain about the copper and aluminum in the same cooling system. I
had already made several section out of copper. And was pretty happy the way
they came out. So if this is so are there aluminum 1 1/4 counter parts
somewhere. See just when you think you done good, boom! Brain fart.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of jimshumaker
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: plastic radiator elbows
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimshumaker" <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
I hope you mean brass elbows Kurt. It is my understanting that Copper and
Aluminum do not mix well in a cooling system. Due to the galvanic action
that occurs between the Copper, Aluminum and the coolant.
Jim Shumaker
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: plastic radiator elbows
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
> I hope these plastic elbows are better than the
> plastic radiator ones I got just a couple years ago.
> Those would easily cave in under clamp pressure
> forming a V one one side and dumping the contents. If
> they are substantial - fine. But if they are like the
> ones I got, don't trust them.
>
> Copper elbows are available at any plumbing
> outlet/hardware store.
>
> Kurt S.
>
> --- "Harris, Robert" <Robert_Harris@intuit.com> wrote:
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Harris, Robert"
> > <Robert_Harris@intuit.com>
> >
> > Is it okay to use plastic radiator elbows to connect
> > my radiator hose?
> ..............
> > If I can't use plastic radiator connectors where
> > can I buy 1" brass or copper elbows?
> >
> > Robert
>
> __________________________________
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
>
Message 4
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave & Wendy Grosvenor" <dwg@iafrica.com>
Does anybody know off hand what the length of the Model 4 bungee is and how
many wraps do you use?
Dave
Message 5
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| Subject: | Instrument Panel |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: DPREMGOOD@aol.com
Good day all,
I finally finished my instrument panel. (see Sportflight; Building Process)
I went for a mahogany veneer finish with 6 coats of epoxy varnish. The veneer
was applied with contact cement. I left the panel out doors one night (no
instruments, of course) at -20C to see if the veneer would delaminate. It did not
:-)
Almost everything on the 'panel is off the shelf' except for the light bulbs
on the panel post lights.
The light bulbs are LEDs that I manufactured from the metal shells of GE-328s
and 5 mm superbright LEDs. In the shaft of the post lights I mounted a 1/8
watt 250 ohm resistor (it just fit). The total electrical draw is of the panel
lights is 120ma. I installed a 2 watt, 500 ohm potentiometer with switch an
on-off.
The light intensity is just fine.
With spring around the corner, I'll be back in the garage sweating the bigger
parts.
Regards,
Doug Remoundos
Classic IV
Montreal, Canada
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: I have the Cowling bluess!! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Dave Wahlquist <wahlquist@ics.uwex.edu>
Dave,
Interesting question.
To add to this I removed a damaged motor mount from a Model III 582 that
was the new style and had the rod and tabs up front and have a replacement
that doesn't have that extension up front. Otherwise the mounts are
identical. My plan was to add the up front parts if I need them but I have
not found out the reason for the two styles yet. My thought is that it
wasn't really a good idea to have that attach point up front because of the
vibration and twist in relation to the rest of the cowl.???
Dave
Mod III rebuilding
At 06:27 PM 3/9/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave Savener" <dsavener@austin.rr.com>
>
>I have a 532(just about worn out) in a model II with the old style motor
>mount. The front cowling is attached to a rod that extends forward from
>the motor mount.
>
>I have a blue head 582 to replace it. I have obtained the newer style
>motor mount that attaches to the side of the motor. It doesn't have the
>cowling attach rod out in front. The front cowlings attach to the rear
>cowlings on the newer versions of the Model II with the new mount.
>
>Has anyone had experience making the old cowls fit with the new motor
>mount? Or do I have to find/buy new cowlings.
>
>If the past is any indication, with my fiberglass skills, making new ones
>is out of the question. It would take me years and they would be so heavy
>I'd have to add a nose wheel!!!
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Door air vents |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: W Duke <n981ms@yahoo.com>
I have heard of tinting rc model canopies with RIT dye. I do not know if that
would work or help you.
Maxwell
Marc Arseneault <northernultralights@hotmail.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Marc Arseneault"
I presently have clear lexan with a 3" round push out type air vent on my doors
and I will be replacingmy lexan with tinted. Would anybody know if they make
tinted air vents and if they do where can I purchase them?
Best Regards,
Marc Arseneault
Ontario Canada
Maxwell Duke
S6/IO240/Phase II Flight Testing
---------------------------------
Message 8
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| Subject: | Instrument Panel |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Doug,
Thanks for the pictures! That mahagony looks great.
I did the same thing but with an oak veneer. I am varnishing now. I hope
it looks half as good as yours.
I am also turning some stick grips out of oak.
Now we just have to get these panels in the air!
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
DPREMGOOD@aol.com
Subject: Kitfox-List: Instrument Panel
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: DPREMGOOD@aol.com
Good day all,
I finally finished my instrument panel. (see Sportflight; Building Process)
I went for a mahogany veneer finish with 6 coats of epoxy varnish. The
veneer
was applied with contact cement. I left the panel out doors one night (no
instruments, of course) at -20C to see if the veneer would delaminate. It
did not
:-)
Almost everything on the 'panel is off the shelf' except for the light bulbs
on the panel post lights.
The light bulbs are LEDs that I manufactured from the metal shells of
GE-328s
and 5 mm superbright LEDs. In the shaft of the post lights I mounted a 1/8
watt 250 ohm resistor (it just fit). The total electrical draw is of the
panel
lights is 120ma. I installed a 2 watt, 500 ohm potentiometer with switch an
on-off.
The light intensity is just fine.
With spring around the corner, I'll be back in the garage sweating the
bigger
parts.
Regards,
Doug Remoundos
Classic IV
Montreal, Canada
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: 618 and 582 (blue top) exhaust |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
To quote Star Trek, "Can she cook, or can she cook!"
Do not archive
--- Patricia Truter <PTruter@csir.co.za> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Patricia Truter"
> <PTruter@csir.co.za>
>
> The guy that built our KF II / 618 (we bought it
> with 50 min on the
> hobbs), by sheer ignorance, removed a total of ~10in
> (compared to the
> standard side-mount-and-elbow configuration) to be
> able to fit it inside
> the cowls! The performance was 'bad'/poor!We then
> put the missing pieces
> back to get to the specified (original) length and
> the result was:
> EXCEPTIONAL performance! Airfield at altitude 4,600
> ft, OAT at 70+ deg,
> 2 up we got 800+ fpm climbing rate. These figures
> cannot remotely be
> compared to what was the case when we flew with the
> shortened exhaust!!
> After we had all the troubles with the 618, we
> bought a brand new 582
> (blue top), and we "fold the exhaust up" to fit the
> standard exhaust
> length into the cowls with good results and
> performance. I will take
> some pics this weekend to send you this weekend.
> Patricia
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
Message 10
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Glenn Horne" <glennflys@rcn.com>
Does anyone have has an electrical drawing of a 582. I'm having
trouble trying to figure out where the amp meter should
be in the circuit. If anyone can send me a diagram send it to
glennflys@rcn.com
Thank you.
Glenn Horne
Message 11
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Dcecil3@aol.com
William I will Inersleeve the repair befor I weld it back together .I'm not
to worried about it because it's not a structural part just a pain in the
butt!
Thanks David
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Door air vents |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ronald K. Stevens" <rkstevens@verizon.net>
I''ve got the same ones you have, and of course, they're not tinted.
I've never seen tinted ones either. However, an optometrist - or
anyplace that make eyeglasses - should be able to tint them for you.
Works the same way as making sunglasses - the clear lens is dipped in
one or more tinting solutions for a period of time. The longer it's
left in the solution - the darker it gets.
You might try your local eyeglass store and see if they would do it for you.
Regards,
Ron
Kitfox 6 - NSI Turbo - Cap 140
Marc Arseneault wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Marc Arseneault" <northernultralights@hotmail.com>
>
>I presently have clear lexan with a 3" round push out type air vent on my doors
and I will be replacingmy lexan with tinted. Would anybody know if they make
tinted air vents and if they do where can I purchase them?
>
>
>Best Regards,
>
>Marc Arseneault
>Ontario Canada
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Door air vents |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Marc Arseneault" <northernultralights@hotmail.com>
Thanks Ron and that is a very good idea! I am buddies with my eye doctor so shouldn't
be a problem.
Best Regards,
Marc Arseneault
Ontario Canada
From: "Ronald K. Stevens" <RKSTEVENS@VERIZON.NET>Reply-To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Door air vents
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 19:24:33 -0500 -- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ronald
K. Stevens" <RKSTEVENS@VERIZON.NET>I''ve got the same ones you have, and
of course, they're not tinted. I've never seen tinted ones either. However, an
optometrist - or anyplace that make eyeglasses - should be able to tint them
for you. Works the same way as making sunglasses - the clear lens is dipped in
one or more tinting solutions for a period of time. The longer it's left in the
solution - the darker it gets. You might try your local eyeglass store and
see if they would do it for you. Re
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: I have the Cowling bluess!! |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave Savener" <dsavener@austin.rr.com>
Dave,
If you have to "add the up front parts", how would you do that. Would you
cut the extensions(the rod and tabs) from the old mounts then weld them to
the new ones? If one can get them aligned correctly, at least the tabs
would already be spaced to fit the old cowl!!
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Wahlquist" <wahlquist@ics.uwex.edu>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: I have the Cowling bluess!!
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Dave Wahlquist <wahlquist@ics.uwex.edu>
>
> Dave,
>
> Interesting question.
>
> To add to this I removed a damaged motor mount from a Model III 582 that
> was the new style and had the rod and tabs up front and have a replacement
> that doesn't have that extension up front. Otherwise the mounts are
> identical. My plan was to add the up front parts if I need them but I have
> not found out the reason for the two styles yet. My thought is that it
> wasn't really a good idea to have that attach point up front because of
the
> vibration and twist in relation to the rest of the cowl.???
>
> Dave
> Mod III rebuilding
>
> At 06:27 PM 3/9/2004 -0600, you wrote:
> >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Dave Savener"
<dsavener@austin.rr.com>
> >
> >I have a 532(just about worn out) in a model II with the old style motor
> >mount. The front cowling is attached to a rod that extends forward from
> >the motor mount.
> >
> >I have a blue head 582 to replace it. I have obtained the newer style
> >motor mount that attaches to the side of the motor. It doesn't have the
> >cowling attach rod out in front. The front cowlings attach to the rear
> >cowlings on the newer versions of the Model II with the new mount.
> >
> >Has anyone had experience making the old cowls fit with the new motor
> >mount? Or do I have to find/buy new cowlings.
> >
> >If the past is any indication, with my fiberglass skills, making new ones
> >is out of the question. It would take me years and they would be so
heavy
> >I'd have to add a nose wheel!!!
> >
> >
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Ethanol Autogas in Tanks |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Chuck & Deanna Schieffer" <cdschieffer@starnetdial.net>
Hi group,
Southern CA is moving from MTBE in autogas to ethanol. I am the second owner of
a Kitfox model 4-1200 with a 912 and understand there can be some issues with
the gas mixture softening/dissolving some of the fiberglas joints in the 13
gal Kitfox tanks. Skystar says if the sloshed coating in the tank is intact there
should be no problems. I haven't checked the tanks yet. Anyone on the list
have any information/issues/experience with gasahol use in the tanks?
Thanks,
Chuck
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Door air vents |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
Say how about a photo grey windshield and sky light? :)
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Marc
Arseneault
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Re: Door air vents
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Marc Arseneault"
<northernultralights@hotmail.com>
Thanks Ron and that is a very good idea! I am buddies with my eye doctor so
shouldn't be a problem.
Best Regards,
Marc Arseneault
Ontario Canada
From: "Ronald K. Stevens" <RKSTEVENS@VERIZON.NET>Reply-To:
kitfox-list@matronics.com To: kitfox-list@matronics.com Subject: Re:
Kitfox-List: Re: Door air vents Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 19:24:33 -0500 --
Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ronald K. Stevens"
<RKSTEVENS@VERIZON.NET>I''ve got the same ones you have, and of course,
they're not tinted. I've never seen tinted ones either. However, an
optometrist - or anyplace that make eyeglasses - should be able to tint them
for you. Works the same way as making sunglasses - the clear lens is dipped
in one or more tinting solutions for a period of time. The longer it's left
in the solution - the darker it gets. You might try your local eyeglass
store and see if they would do it for you. Re
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Ethanol Autogas in Tanks |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
Check the archives...big topic. My understanding is yes the alcohol will
soften the resin.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chuck &
Deanna Schieffer
Subject: Kitfox-List: Ethanol Autogas in Tanks
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Chuck & Deanna Schieffer"
<cdschieffer@starnetdial.net>
Hi group,
Southern CA is moving from MTBE in autogas to ethanol. I am the second
owner of a Kitfox model 4-1200 with a 912 and understand there can be some
issues with the gas mixture softening/dissolving some of the fiberglas
joints in the 13 gal Kitfox tanks. Skystar says if the sloshed coating in
the tank is intact there should be no problems. I haven't checked the tanks
yet. Anyone on the list have any information/issues/experience with gasahol
use in the tanks?
Thanks,
Chuck
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: plastic radiator elbows |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Wwillyard@aol.com
In a message dated 3/10/2004 1:32:51 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net writes:
I hope you mean brass elbows Kurt. It is my understanting that Copper and
Aluminum do not mix well in a cooling system. Due to the galvanic action
that occurs between the Copper, Aluminum and the coolant.
My SkyStar provided radiator has copper elbows soldered to the radiator
tanks. Also parts of some brands of automotive thermostats are manufactured out
of
copper. Modern hydronic boilers for space heating are manufactured out of
aluminum with copper distribution piping and fin tube being standard practice.
There does not seem to be any problems associated with these systems using
either glycol or plain water. I would say that copper should be no problem based
on my 30 years experience in the HVAC trade.
William Willyard
Classic IV
Grandville, MI
Message 19
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Glenn,
Try this:
http://www.800-airwolf.com/pdffiles/ARTICLES/part32.pdf
If it doesn't help, it came from a site that Torgeir alerted us to:
http://www.800-airwolf.com/articles.htm
The articles here are great.
Randy
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glenn Horne
Subject: Kitfox-List: elect. drawing
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Glenn Horne" <glennflys@rcn.com>
Does anyone have has an electrical drawing of a 582. I'm having
trouble trying to figure out where the amp meter should
be in the circuit. If anyone can send me a diagram send it to
glennflys@rcn.com
Thank you.
Glenn Horne
Message 20
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| Subject: | Ethanol Autogas in Tanks |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "daniel johnson" <kitfox91je@hotmail.com>
Try to stay away from the ethanol. I use exxon here in ohio, they claim no
ethanal. I have a frind that drives a gas truck however that tells me there
is a lot of bogus fuel going around...like getting a load of 87 put into the
93 tanks at the station...so maybe ethonol too. I try to test for it.
Ethonol absorbs water so if you get a gratuated cylinder and put some water
in it...make a mark at the water line, then put some of your gas on
top....shake, and see if the water line rises....if it didn its due to
ethanol/alcohol content. I"ve check the exxon station i use a few times and
found none...i but there and nowhere else. A lot of the discount stations
like speedway do have ethanol...hope it helps.
Dan Johnson. K3 Columbus Ohio
>From: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
>Reply-To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Ethanol Autogas in Tanks
>Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 17:59:34 -0800
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
>
>Check the archives...big topic. My understanding is yes the alcohol will
>soften the resin.
>
>Rick
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chuck &
>Deanna Schieffer
>To: Kitfox list
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Ethanol Autogas in Tanks
>
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Chuck & Deanna Schieffer"
><cdschieffer@starnetdial.net>
>
>Hi group,
>Southern CA is moving from MTBE in autogas to ethanol. I am the second
>owner of a Kitfox model 4-1200 with a 912 and understand there can be some
>issues with the gas mixture softening/dissolving some of the fiberglas
>joints in the 13 gal Kitfox tanks. Skystar says if the sloshed coating in
>the tank is intact there should be no problems. I haven't checked the
>tanks
>yet. Anyone on the list have any information/issues/experience with
>gasahol
>use in the tanks?
>Thanks,
>Chuck
>
>
Find things fast with the new MSN Toolbar includes FREE pop-up blocking!
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Message 21
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| Subject: | Ethanol Autogas in Tanks |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "daniel johnson" <kitfox91je@hotmail.com>
Sorry...made a typo in my reply....if the water line rises, ethanol is
present.
>From: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
>Reply-To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Ethanol Autogas in Tanks
>Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2004 17:59:34 -0800
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
>
>Check the archives...big topic. My understanding is yes the alcohol will
>soften the resin.
>
>Rick
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chuck &
>Deanna Schieffer
>To: Kitfox list
>Subject: Kitfox-List: Ethanol Autogas in Tanks
>
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Chuck & Deanna Schieffer"
><cdschieffer@starnetdial.net>
>
>Hi group,
>Southern CA is moving from MTBE in autogas to ethanol. I am the second
>owner of a Kitfox model 4-1200 with a 912 and understand there can be some
>issues with the gas mixture softening/dissolving some of the fiberglas
>joints in the 13 gal Kitfox tanks. Skystar says if the sloshed coating in
>the tank is intact there should be no problems. I haven't checked the
>tanks
>yet. Anyone on the list have any information/issues/experience with
>gasahol
>use in the tanks?
>Thanks,
>Chuck
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: plastic radiator elbows |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimshumaker" <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
William
Thanks for the info. The rumor I heard was from a Jaguar driver. He was
talking about how great and reliable the Jag was. Unless of course you
happened to buy one during a certain year when they mixed copper with the
aluminum radiators. I did not believe him about the Jag being reliable but
I guess I did believe him about the copper aluminum thing.
Jim Shumaker
----- Original Message -----
From: <Wwillyard@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: plastic radiator elbows
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Wwillyard@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 3/10/2004 1:32:51 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net writes:
> I hope you mean brass elbows Kurt. It is my understanting that Copper and
> Aluminum do not mix well in a cooling system. Due to the galvanic action
> that occurs between the Copper, Aluminum and the coolant.
>
>
> My SkyStar provided radiator has copper elbows soldered to the radiator
> tanks. Also parts of some brands of automotive thermostats are
manufactured out of
> copper. Modern hydronic boilers for space heating are manufactured out of
> aluminum with copper distribution piping and fin tube being standard
practice.
> There does not seem to be any problems associated with these systems using
> either glycol or plain water. I would say that copper should be no
problem based
> on my 30 years experience in the HVAC trade.
>
> William Willyard
> Classic IV
> Grandville, MI
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: DPREMGOOD@aol.com
Randy,
Thanks, I am very happy with how the panel turned out.
One thing you may want to look out for is how you will treat the veneer
around the instrument holes. When you varnish, try to keep the insides of the
instrument holes dry or you'll spend a lot of time sanding and filing to get the
instruments to fit.
I'd like to see your panel when your done.
Regards,
Doug Remoundos
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot rating |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michael Gibbs <MichaelGibbs@cox.net>
Dee Young sez:
>Thanks Steve for the update, that is good news for everyone. I will
>let aviation grow again.
I didn't realize you were the one holding things up, Dee. :-)
Mike G.
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