---------------------------------------------------------- Kitfox-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 03/24/04: 20 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:05 AM - Re: NSI EA-81 and CAP 140 operation questions (kurt schrader) 2. 04:37 AM - Re: NSI EA-81 and CAP 140 operation questions (Fox5flyer) 3. 06:22 AM - Painting gap-bridging tape (Clem Nichols) 4. 08:21 AM - Re: NSI EA-81 and CAP 140 operation questions (Rick) 5. 08:32 AM - Alaska 2002 DVDs & CD (hausding, sid) 6. 09:02 AM - Re: NSI EA-81 and CAP 140 operation questions (Fox5flyer) 7. 11:34 AM - Wing locker (Graeme Toft) 8. 12:40 PM - Asian airplanes WAS: Alaska 2002 DVDs & CD (Michel Verheughe) 9. 12:50 PM - NSI EA-81 & CAP 140 opns. for Jeff (Scott McClintock) 10. 01:13 PM - Re: Painting gap-bridging tape (Allan Mantell) 11. 01:25 PM - Re: Asian airplanes WAS: Alaska 2002 DVDs & CD (Scott McClintock) 12. 02:34 PM - Re: Asian airplanes (Michel Verheughe) 13. 04:50 PM - S-6 fuel tanks (Fred Shiple) 14. 05:39 PM - ski saver tape (Fox5flyer) 15. 06:49 PM - Re: NSI EA-81 and CAP 140 operation questions (kurt schrader) 16. 07:03 PM - Re: ski saver tape (Rick) 17. 07:20 PM - Re: NSI EA-81 and CAP 140 operation questions (Rick) 18. 09:29 PM - Re: NSI EA-81 and CAP 140 operation questions (kurt schrader) 19. 09:34 PM - Re: S-6 fuel tanks (Jeff Smathers) 20. 09:45 PM - Re: S-6 fuel tanks (JMCBEAN) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:05:36 AM PST US From: kurt schrader Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: NSI EA-81 and CAP 140 operation questions --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader Hey Jeff, Sounds like the fun is just about ready to begin! :-) I have the S-5 with the NSI EA-81 {but turboed} and CAP-140, so mine is a little different from yours due to the turbo. I don't have the blade angle gage either - sorry. I'll offer what I can and let the others jump in with better details. I just reached 17.0 on the Hobbs while testing mine on Monday. :-) With a pitch gage, you can tie the plane down, definately the tail, and do a full power runup. Stick full aft too! Just ease the power up while adjusting the prop to give you the static rpm you want at full power. Then read the angle on the gage. This will change with density altitude of course, but it is ballpark to start with. The latest NSI limitations sheet I have dated 2002 gives a max of 6200 rpm for your engine for takeoff. 5800 is max continuous. If this is what you have, good. I suggest that you keep the rpm below max continuous all the time though. There is still plenty of power. Without an angle gage, I set my prop to max pitch around 2500 rpm, then throttle back to 2000 rpm. Then I reset the prop to 2750 rpm for proper blade angle. That gives me a good blade angle for takeoff power. At that point I do the runup ignition checks, etc. You could also use that kind of proceedure, but with a little more rpm/less pitch for takeoff on yours. On the turbo, my manifold pressure goes to zero on takeoff and maybe 0-6 in cruise, so I am probably no help to you there. I climb at 60 KIAS (or 69 mph) which is just above best rate of climb for me. The locals still complain about my climb angle being too high at that speed. I ease the rpm back down to 44-4600 for climb above 500'. Do you have a fuel flow gage? For cruise, I bring the rpm down some first with prop pitch. Then I set 4 gph fuel flow for 65 KIAS/75 mph to 6 gph FF and 85 KIAS/98 mph all at 36-3900 rpm. My limitations sheet says 39-4000 is best for you, but you need to find your own "sweet spot" for rpm. I have not even tested beyond 95 knots/110 mph yet. My plane is very draggy without any fairings installed, so you should be able to match or beat my numbers in speed for your power settings. My clean stall was 40 KIAS (or 46 mph) testing at 1200 lbs. I tried 60 KIAS (or 69 mph) for the pattern, but it is too fast and leads to floating or bouncing unless you bleed it off on final. It doesn't seem to bleed off that easily and I need to slip it most of the way on final when starting with that speed. 52 KIAS (or 60 mph) works great though. Still not doing any fancy stuff yet in the pattern. Based on your empty CG of 12.73 (?), you may find that you have a little too much weight with that heavy battery back there and can go to the next lighter one, after some testing. Then you will have more gargo capacity to work with. My battery is 22 lbs, but my ELT is right behind it. My weight is maybe 2-3 lbs less in back than yours. It makes a big difference in CG available. Hope that starts the conversation. Kurt S. --- Jeff Smathers wrote: > Hi All, > > I am trying to find operational values for my Kitfox > 5 Outback thats configured with an NSI EA-81 engine > and CAP 140 prop. > > I am ready for my first flight and would like to > know what Engine RPM / Prop Angle / Manifold Pressure > relationships I can expect and approximate airspeeds > associated for those values. > .................. > Thanks sincerely, Jeff Smathers N456JT KF5 > 853 lbs 12.73 CG SN#9404-0009 > ....(I've got a 26 lb Genesis battery in the tail) __________________________________ ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:37:08 AM PST US From: "Fox5flyer" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: NSI EA-81 and CAP 140 operation questions --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" Jeff sez: > I am trying to find operational values for my Kitfox 5 Outback > thats configured with an NSI EA-81 engine and CAP 140 prop. > I am ready for my first flight and would like to know what > Engine RPM / Prop Angle / Manifold Pressure relationships > I can expect and approximate airspeeds associated for those > values. Good morning Jeff. I don't have a pitch gauge, nor do I have any idea what my prop pitch is. It's all done by feel, rpm, and most of all manifold pressure (MP). Prior to takeoff, when warmed up, I set prop for full pitch at 2000 rpm static. Then I start reducing pitch until I get 2650 rpm. This sets my takeoff pitch and gives around 5000 takeoff rpm which is slightly variable with OAT. I've never found I needed the pitch gauge nor do I have a trim gauge. Just more things to go wrong. My MP at takeoff is somewhere around 29" with 5000-5300 rpm. I could go much higher in rpm, but there's plenty of power available so I don't use more unless I need it. Nice to know it's available though. My climb speed is about 70mph which yields about 1000 to 1200 fpm depending on temps. Hot summer days can be down around 800 fpm. After 500' I usually start adding pitch and reducing power while lowering the nose to a climb rate of about 4400 rpm and 90 mph at about 25" MP and leaned to about 1400 egt. When I start getting close to altitude I lower the nose and let the speed pick up while adding more prop pitch and reducing throttle until I get my 22" MP, 3800 rpm, 1460 egt, 4 gph, and about 110 indicated. This varies according to ambient conditions and can be higher or lower. I don't have any spread sheets or anything like that. My airplane is fairly clean aerodynamically so this is a big variable with the different Foxes. My weight is 870 and I have a 19lb Powersonic battery in the tail with wings swept. Tailwheel is the Maule Tundra unit and long Grove aluminum t/w spring. Empty CG is right at the front, but with me (170) and low fuel I have no trouble getting the tail down on flare. Hope this helps a little. Darrel ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:22:58 AM PST US From: "Clem Nichols" Subject: Kitfox-List: Painting gap-bridging tape --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" Can anyone in the group tell me if Polytone finish will adhere to the "Tissu tape" sold by Wings & Wheels to use in bridging the gap between my horizontal stabilizer and elevator? I'd prefer to have the tape match the color of my plane, but would hate to wind up with a peeling mess which would look much worse than the original white color of the tape. The man who sells the tape was unable to tell me. Thanks in advance. Clem Nichols ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:21:54 AM PST US From: "Rick" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: NSI EA-81 and CAP 140 operation questions --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" Kurt, Rick here. Say don't think the MP should drop at all. You should be making about 44 inches on take off at those RPMs and never go minus any. Even at 10,000 feet you should be able to make around 33-34 IPM. Are you sure you don't have a boost gage? Even with a boost gage it should be making max boost on take off at those RPMs. The 6GPH sounds right depending on leaning and power setting in cruise. I personally am going to stay away from any EGTs above 1400, still building a new engine, getting closer though. Rick On the turbo, my manifold pressure goes to zero on takeoff and maybe 0-6 in cruise, so I am probably no help to you there. Kurt S. --- Jeff Smathers wrote: > Hi All, > > I am trying to find operational values for my Kitfox > 5 Outback thats configured with an NSI EA-81 engine > and CAP 140 prop. > > I am ready for my first flight and would like to > know what Engine RPM / Prop Angle / Manifold Pressure > relationships I can expect and approximate airspeeds > associated for those values. > .................. > Thanks sincerely, Jeff Smathers N456JT KF5 > 853 lbs 12.73 CG SN#9404-0009 > ....(I've got a 26 lb Genesis battery in the tail) __________________________________ ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:32:10 AM PST US From: "hausding, sid" Subject: Kitfox-List: Alaska 2002 DVDs & CD --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "hausding, sid" I don't think John would mind....if you don't have a set by the time I get them I will copy and mail you a set...... Sid --------------------- "Harris, Robert" wrote: > > Sid or Scott please burn me a copy when you get them. I'll pay you.. I would be willing to pay for a set also. I wanted to move them along as fast as possible when I got them, so I took them to someone to have them copied. Without looking at the originals, I sent them on. The dvds have skips then twoard the end are not viewable at all. The cd's I can't open at all. All I have are a bunch of other programs that won't open either. So I would gladly pay for a set. Norm ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 09:02:53 AM PST US From: "Fox5flyer" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: NSI EA-81 and CAP 140 operation questions --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" Good point Rick. I was thinking about this. Kurt, if you are using a mechanical gauge, what are you using for MP tubing? If it's any sort of urethane type product perhaps the vacuum created is closing off the tubing, therefore the zero to six reading you're getting on your gauge. Just a thought. Darrel > Kurt, Rick here. Say don't think the MP should drop at all. You should be > making about 44 inches on take off at those RPMs and never go minus any. > Even at 10,000 feet you should be able to make around 33-34 IPM. Are you > sure you don't have a boost gage? Even with a boost gage it should be making > max boost on take off at those RPMs. The 6GPH sounds right depending on > leaning and power setting in cruise. I personally am going to stay away from > any EGTs above 1400, still building a new engine, getting closer though. > Rick > > On the turbo, my manifold pressure goes to zero on > takeoff and maybe 0-6 in cruise, so I am probably no > help to you there. > > Kurt S. ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 11:34:16 AM PST US From: "Graeme Toft" Subject: Kitfox-List: Wing locker --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Graeme Toft" Hi , I am rebuilding a Mk 1 in Australia and cant find info about converting the wing locker into a fuel tank. Can anyone tell me if this mod is approved and if so where can I get plans or detail on how to go about it. Hope someone can help as its impossible to get info down here about anything Kitfox related. Regards Graeme ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 12:40:57 PM PST US From: Michel Verheughe Subject: Kitfox-List: Asian airplanes WAS: Alaska 2002 DVDs & CD --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe Scott McClintock wrote: > Would YOU fly in an airplane manufactured in Taiwan or Korea? I certainly would, Scott! Because if I was allowed to fly it in Norway, it would have to pass tests you haven't heard of yet. Remember that I live in the country that wants me to wear a helmet and stay within 10 km of the coast when I fly a Kitfox! :-) Cheers, Michel ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 12:50:01 PM PST US From: Scott McClintock Subject: Kitfox-List: NSI EA-81 & CAP 140 opns. for Jeff --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Scott McClintock Jeff, I have read Kurt & Darrel's recommendations. I have a Series 5 with the same virtual set up. My plane is heavy (945 lbs.) for a Kitfox but strangely enough my TO settings, procedures and speeds are almost identical. In regards to setting the prop pitch, the procedures outlined by Kurt & Darrel are what I use and are critical. My first TO, I had too little pitch causing my RPMs to get into the rev limiter. Not something you want during a TO. I generally pitch mine for just under max RPM (say about 5800-5900) with full throttle. I get very impressive FPM climb/speed performance using these settings. I'd recommend using what we are using and you can do the "fine turning" as you become more comfortable with your plane. Have Fun and keep us informed on your progress. Scott in Nome DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 01:13:36 PM PST US From: "Allan Mantell" Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Painting gap-bridging tape --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Allan Mantell" There is a clear tape called "ski-saver tape". Its sold in sporting goods stores for putting on the top of skis so they don't get scratched up. Many people have used this for the gap seal and it s clear and you don't see it. Can be replaced easily for it comes off with a heat gun. I use it near the door openings where you slide in and out and it protects the paint in that area. TEX ----- Original Message ----- From: "Clem Nichols" Subject: Kitfox-List: Painting gap-bridging tape > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" > > Can anyone in the group tell me if Polytone finish will adhere to the "Tissu tape" sold by Wings & Wheels to use in bridging the gap between my horizontal stabilizer and elevator? I'd prefer to have the tape match the color of my plane, but would hate to wind up with a peeling mess which would look much worse than the original white color of the tape. The man who sells the tape was unable to tell me. Thanks in advance. > > Clem Nichols > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 01:25:22 PM PST US From: Scott McClintock Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Asian airplanes WAS: Alaska 2002 DVDs & CD --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Scott McClintock Actually Michel, I was using an American vernacular which used to be pointed at the (once) poor quality of Harley-Davidson motorcycles. (I.e. The evil AMF days) sorry. I hope I will not be thus restricted when I fly the "Arctic Fox" to Russia this August. The Russian government hasn't decided on how to deal with several of us Alaskan Airman's Assoc. pilots who fly "experimentals". We are working on it. Scott in Nome DO NOT ARCHIVE Michel Verheughe wrote: > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe > > Scott McClintock wrote: > > Would YOU fly in an airplane manufactured in Taiwan or Korea? > > I certainly would, Scott! Because if I was allowed to fly it in Norway, it > would have to pass tests you haven't heard of yet. Remember that I live in the > country that wants me to wear a helmet and stay within 10 km of the coast when > I fly a Kitfox! :-) > > Cheers, > Michel > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 02:34:22 PM PST US From: Michel Verheughe Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Asian airplanes --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe Scott McClintock wrote: > I hope I will not be thus restricted when I fly the "Arctic Fox" to Russia this > August. Wow, that's cool, Scott! You'll be in Michel Gordillo's footstep but the other way around then. There has been a time since I read his story and he will correct me if I am wrong but wasn't in in Russia where they insisted he needed a navigator in place of his "right seat tank?" Anyway, I am sure it will be fun and we hope to see a lot of pictures from the trip. Looking forward to that. Cheers, Michel do not archive ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 04:50:41 PM PST US From: Fred Shiple Subject: Kitfox-List: S-6 fuel tanks --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Fred Shiple I swapped my fuel tank drains for flush mount drains to avoid hitting the bubble doors. Both drains I removed had a sticky resin like material at the o-rings. When they dried over nite the stuff suspiciously set up like fiber glass. When I inspected the filler necks and visible interior tank, the area looked and felt solid. There is alcohol in the local auto fuel and fuel's been in the tank for about 3 months now. Have got the FAA signed off and am about ready for first flight. Has anyone encountered this before? Any advise regarding tracking this down further and am I correct in being concerned about the integrity of the tanks? Thanks. Fred ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 05:39:28 PM PST US From: "Fox5flyer" Subject: Kitfox-List: ski saver tape --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" I was told that Ski-Saver tape wasn't being marketed anymore. Do you know of any chain stores that stock it? I'd like to get some more just to keep on hand. Darrel > There is a clear tape called "ski-saver tape". Its sold in sporting goods > stores for putting on the top of skis so they don't get scratched up. Many > people have used this for the gap seal and it s clear and you don't see it. > Can be replaced easily for it comes off with a heat gun. I use it near the > door openings where you slide in and out and it protects the paint in that > area. TEX ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 06:49:53 PM PST US From: kurt schrader Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: NSI EA-81 and CAP 140 operation questions --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader Darrel and Rick, I have been wondering about this guys. I am just a bit short of "round-to-its" right now. Lance sent me a VDO 0-30 Vacuum gage with the turbo engine, so no, I don't see any boost. It is tapped off the aircraft right side of the intake and acts just like a vacuum gage should, 15 to 16 inches at idle and clockwise to zero with power. To get 6" vacuum takes a fuel flow of only 3 gal/hr. More than that and I get to zero vacuum quickly. Can't see boost at all.... I assume you all got boost gages then? Was this vacuum gage supposed to be for the normally asperated ENG's only, or not at all? Been working on these other issues so far, so I didn't address that gage yet: I got my oil breather to stop burping. My oil temps are lower now too, since I ducted more air to the oil cooler. Now the pressure stays up at idle in descent, at least in cold wx. Will check as it gets warmer here. I still get 220-230 degrees oil temp at max power, but it cools off now to 180-205, with OAT's below 60 anyway. But my egt's run 1400-1550 in flight, full rich, with 1450 average at 4-5 gph. At 85 knots and 6 gph fuel flow, I am at 1500-1550 egt, rich. I only see the cool side of 1400 at very low power. Haven't liked that either. Carboning everything up because I am almost always rich to keep the temps down. I might have to bypass my EGT L/R switch and watch one side only to see if the switch connections are scewing my temps. It would be nice if that is all it was. The other possibility is low fuel flow going lean. I'd appreciate any comments. Then I found that my prop would jump 400 rpm in flight. Thought I was bumping the switch, but it turns out my prop changing jack screw needs a shim. I can rotate the blades in pitch by hand on the ground. Those sudden rpm changes get your attention too. Just figured it out this week, so I still need to fix that. Since it always tries to go to flat pitch, I just run my rpm up, then slightly back down to keep it steady until I can get round-to-it. I have collect a lot of data and tested a lot so far, mostly very good stuff. Going to do a bit of correcting of these and other issues as soon as I can get some good wx and complete my climb data. Then it is time to service the engine and GB anyway. Radiator scoop is in progress to add next. If I get good data first, I can confirm the change I get from adding it. Kurt S. ................. --- Fox5flyer wrote: > Good point Rick. > Darrel > ................. > > Kurt, Rick here. Say don't think the MP should > drop at all. You should be making about 44 inches on > take off at those RPMs and never go minus any. > Are you sure you don't have a boost gage? ------------------- > I personally am going to stay away from any EGTs > above 1400, still building a new engine, > getting closer though. > > Rick __________________________________ ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 07:03:47 PM PST US From: "Rick" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: ski saver tape --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" Give this a try. If not let me know and i will did a bit more. Rick Ski Saver 227 North Mill St. Lewisville, Tx. 75057 Tel. 972-219-7401 -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer Subject: Kitfox-List: ski saver tape --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" I was told that Ski-Saver tape wasn't being marketed anymore. Do you know of any chain stores that stock it? I'd like to get some more just to keep on hand. Darrel > There is a clear tape called "ski-saver tape". Its sold in sporting goods > stores for putting on the top of skis so they don't get scratched up. Many > people have used this for the gap seal and it s clear and you don't see it. > Can be replaced easily for it comes off with a heat gun. I use it near the > door openings where you slide in and out and it protects the paint in that > area. TEX ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 07:20:13 PM PST US From: "Rick" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: NSI EA-81 and CAP 140 operation questions --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" Kurt, do you have the Ellison 2 or 3A. If you don't have the 3A this could be part of you problem. Not know exactly what is going on, there is also the possibility you could be running too rich in which case you could actually be runner hotter than if you were lean of peak. I suspect as stated previous by I believe Darrel you line to the gage could be a culprit on the boost/MP issue. I changed mine to a copper line with AN fitting and a bulk head fitting. Just did not like the plastic line. To easy to melt and become a torch IMHO. Regardless, the boost should be about 7 PSI at sea level and I cant remember what it was at idle before I installed the MP gage. Pretty sure it reads at a minimum 30 IN at idle and for sure 44 at full power. Could be a bad gage. One good thing about a boost or MP gage is that if your engine isn't making the same MP relative to standard pressure it a sure indication something is going wrong. I would switch to a MP gage and see what readings you get or at least do a check on the line. Something's not right. Rick -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of kurt schrader Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: NSI EA-81 and CAP 140 operation questions --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader Darrel and Rick, I have been wondering about this guys. I am just a bit short of "round-to-its" right now. Lance sent me a VDO 0-30 Vacuum gage with the turbo engine, so no, I don't see any boost. It is tapped off the aircraft right side of the intake and acts just like a vacuum gage should, 15 to 16 inches at idle and clockwise to zero with power. To get 6" vacuum takes a fuel flow of only 3 gal/hr. More than that and I get to zero vacuum quickly. Can't see boost at all.... I assume you all got boost gages then? Was this vacuum gage supposed to be for the normally asperated ENG's only, or not at all? Been working on these other issues so far, so I didn't address that gage yet: I got my oil breather to stop burping. My oil temps are lower now too, since I ducted more air to the oil cooler. Now the pressure stays up at idle in descent, at least in cold wx. Will check as it gets warmer here. I still get 220-230 degrees oil temp at max power, but it cools off now to 180-205, with OAT's below 60 anyway. But my egt's run 1400-1550 in flight, full rich, with 1450 average at 4-5 gph. At 85 knots and 6 gph fuel flow, I am at 1500-1550 egt, rich. I only see the cool side of 1400 at very low power. Haven't liked that either. Carboning everything up because I am almost always rich to keep the temps down. I might have to bypass my EGT L/R switch and watch one side only to see if the switch connections are scewing my temps. It would be nice if that is all it was. The other possibility is low fuel flow going lean. I'd appreciate any comments. Then I found that my prop would jump 400 rpm in flight. Thought I was bumping the switch, but it turns out my prop changing jack screw needs a shim. I can rotate the blades in pitch by hand on the ground. Those sudden rpm changes get your attention too. Just figured it out this week, so I still need to fix that. Since it always tries to go to flat pitch, I just run my rpm up, then slightly back down to keep it steady until I can get round-to-it. I have collect a lot of data and tested a lot so far, mostly very good stuff. Going to do a bit of correcting of these and other issues as soon as I can get some good wx and complete my climb data. Then it is time to service the engine and GB anyway. Radiator scoop is in progress to add next. If I get good data first, I can confirm the change I get from adding it. Kurt S. ................. --- Fox5flyer wrote: > Good point Rick. > Darrel > ................. > > Kurt, Rick here. Say don't think the MP should > drop at all. You should be making about 44 inches on > take off at those RPMs and never go minus any. > Are you sure you don't have a boost gage? ------------------- > I personally am going to stay away from any EGTs > above 1400, still building a new engine, > getting closer though. > > Rick __________________________________ ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 09:29:56 PM PST US From: kurt schrader Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: NSI EA-81 and CAP 140 operation questions --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader Rick, I have the 3A TB, but I have had mixture issues. Sometimes full rich is rich and sometimes it is right on peak. Lance says that I need a fuel pressure regulator, so I bought one, but haven't installed it yet. I don't think I have ever been too lean. Always from peak to rich, depending upon the test I was doing and power I needed. After I get the regulator installed, I'll try careful leaning at lower power to see where the egt goes. Obviously the regulator will not increase my fuel flow. I always hate to stick things in that might restrict. But steady pressure equals steady mixture. I pulled the screen on the carb just in case something got that far. Nodda... Didn't actually check the metering bar for plugged holes though. The vacuum gage is working right. It is just a vacuum gage! I need a boost gage or MP gage. Did you buy your own or get it from NSI? Another more minor issue. The FlowScan meter seems to not be accurate in fuel consummed if you go above the max reading of 10 gph FF. When I do my high powered climbs and desents, the totalizer is off by up to 30%. Missing about 2 gph in usage in just over an hour. Anyone else have that problem? On the good side, of the three I have flown, my KF beats the Cub and Champ hands down. They are not nearly as good on the controls as the KF, nor do they make me feel as secure in flight. :-) Kurt S. __________________________________ ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 09:34:53 PM PST US From: Jeff Smathers Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: S-6 fuel tanks --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jeff Smathers Fred, That residue might have been trace amounts of styrene that was remaining in the tank after they desolved out the styrene tank form when they lay-up the fiberglass. Mine was sealed up for 2 years and when I checked the inside filler neck it felt like uncured epoxy ! It was resolved by sloshing the tanks with MEK and letting it "dry out" for several weeks. Apparently styrene is a "heavy" molecule and will not evaporate in a sealed container (tank). Jeff Smathers Fred Shiple wrote: > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Fred Shiple > > I swapped my fuel tank drains for flush mount drains to avoid hitting the bubble doors. Both drains I removed had a sticky resin like material at the o-rings. When they dried over nite the stuff suspiciously set up like fiber glass. When I inspected the filler necks and visible interior tank, the area looked and felt solid. > There is alcohol in the local auto fuel and fuel's been in the tank for about 3 months now. Have got the FAA signed off and am about ready for first flight. Has anyone > encountered this before? Any advise regarding tracking this down further and am I correct in being concerned about the integrity of the tanks? > Thanks. > Fred > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 09:45:22 PM PST US From: "JMCBEAN" Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: S-6 fuel tanks --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "JMCBEAN" Fred, It is most likely styrene. I would suggest draining the fuel and letting the tanks air out. Blue Skies!! John & Debra McBean "The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground" -----Original Message----- From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fred Shiple Subject: Kitfox-List: S-6 fuel tanks --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Fred Shiple I swapped my fuel tank drains for flush mount drains to avoid hitting the bubble doors. Both drains I removed had a sticky resin like material at the o-rings. When they dried over nite the stuff suspiciously set up like fiber glass. When I inspected the filler necks and visible interior tank, the area looked and felt solid. There is alcohol in the local auto fuel and fuel's been in the tank for about 3 months now. Have got the FAA signed off and am about ready for first flight. Has anyone encountered this before? Any advise regarding tracking this down further and am I correct in being concerned about the integrity of the tanks? Thanks. Fred