Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:56 AM - EGT Gauge for 912S (Kerry Skyring)
2. 05:18 AM - Re: Re: New Panel (Jim Burke)
3. 08:42 AM - Fiber vs Castle Nuts (Norm Beauchamp)
4. 08:52 AM - DVD's - Kitfoxes to Alaska 2002 (Grant Fluent)
5. 08:58 AM - Re: Fiber vs Castle Nuts (Don Pearsall)
6. 10:05 AM - Re: Fuel evaporation (Michel Verheughe)
7. 10:53 AM - Re: Fiber vs Castle Nuts (Bruce Lina)
8. 11:00 AM - Flap actuator positive lock? (Steve Cooper)
9. 11:07 AM - Re: Fuel evaporation (Lowell Fitt)
10. 11:48 AM - Rudder cable (Bill Pleso)
11. 12:54 PM - Pitot Static (Jimmie Blackwell)
12. 01:16 PM - 912 Ignition problems (Ed McManus)
13. 01:47 PM - Re: Re: New Panel (Marc Arseneault)
14. 02:18 PM - Re: Fuel evaporation (Michel Verheughe)
15. 02:22 PM - Re: Flap actuator positive lock? (Michel Verheughe)
16. 06:53 PM - Re: Rudder cable (Glenn Horne)
17. 06:53 PM - Re: Fuel evaporation (kurt schrader)
18. 07:00 PM - Re: Angle of Attack Gauge (Herbert R Gottelt)
19. 07:37 PM - Re: 912 Ignition problems (Herbert R Gottelt)
20. 08:14 PM - Re: Pitot Static (John E. King)
21. 08:42 PM - Re: Flap actuator positive lock? (John E. King)
22. 09:33 PM - Re: Angle of Attack Gauge (Robert Beck)
23. 10:33 PM - Tail spring (Graeme Toft)
Message 1
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| Subject: | EGT Gauge for 912S |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kerry Skyring" <kerryskyring@hotmail.com>
Can anyone make recommendations on a brand
of EGT Gauge for a 912 in an S5?
Not looking for anything fancy - just effective
and that can be bought at Sun-N-Fun this year.
Kerry in Vienna.
By the way the owner of the Vienna Kitfox
Hans (Johann) Muehlberger will be at Sun-N-Fun
and will be very keen to look at flying Kitfoxes.
i.e. a guy who's enlgish is not that great but
who is a genuinely nice guy and who is
doing a terrific job on his S5 may approach
you and ask to have a look. I hope you can
help him out. We live in a Kitfox free zone.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RE: New Panel |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Burke <jeburke94je@direcway.com>
Thanks Marc, I will get busy and order the primer in the morning. I think I
can get the paint locally. I might be able to find the primer, but I would
imagine it is a industrial grade.
James E. Burke
(N94JE)
-------Original Message-------
From: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: RE: New Panel
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Marc Arseneault"
<northernultralights@hotmail.com>
Hi James,
Zinc chromate primerand thentremclad spray paint. This is what I did on mine
and got a very nice finish.
Best Regards,
Marc Arseneault
Ontario Canada
Help protect your entire PC with Virus Guard from MSN Premium Get Two
Months FREE*
.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Fiber vs Castle Nuts |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Norm Beauchamp <nebchmp@wcc.net>
This question is primarily for those who have been in the A/C
maintenance trade over the years. I had our Tech Adviser ( respected
IA) inspect my aircraft once more before certification. The times he
has inspected he makes a point that the fiber loc nuts on the control
column, and the elevator hinge, should be castle nuts with a coter key.
Even though the bolt is inside of a bushing. His theoy is any nut that
moves has a chance of looseing. I respect him and appreciate his
advice, but is this a problem? I've not heard of a problem of nuts
coming loose in either area. Nor have I heard this being discussed
before. Is this a something that some of you have changed on your
own? Norm
Message 4
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| Subject: | DVD's - Kitfoxes to Alaska 2002 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Grant Fluent <gjfpilot@yahoo.com>
Hello All,
I would like make an offer to anyone on the Kitfox
list who would like copies of the Alaska 2002 DVD's.
Please email me off of the list at gjfpilot@yahoo.com
if you would like a copy. I can record both DVD-R and
DVD+R formats. The ones circulating from John King
were the DVD-R format so if you were previously able
to view those on your player let me know. If you
haven't viewed the DVD's, take a look at the manual
for your player to see what format is compatible. Most
newer players will play both.
I am not wishing to make any money on this, only
recover my cost for DVD's, bubble pack envelopes, and
postage. The cost will be $5 for mailing within the
U.S.
Grant Fluent
Newcastle, NE
Classic IV 912S
Message 5
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| Subject: | Fiber vs Castle Nuts |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
I am sure there is an FAA AC on this somewhere, but here is what Tony
Bingelis says in "Sportplane Construction Techniques:"
"Self locking nuts should never be used where there is movement between the
nut or bolt head, and the underlying fitting or part. It is OK, however, to
use self locking nuts in most rod end bearing installations as the movement
would take place in the rod end and not under the bolt or nut."
Don Pearsall
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel evaporation |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Thank you Vic, Matt, Scott, Marc, Jim, Kurt and Don, for your answers.
The hose idea sounds interesting. It a bit like the spiral in the nose of
camels, that keeps moisture.
However, I might try my plan B, the cover. Yes Matt, those car covers are
light, watertight and certainly convenient. The thing is, I already made one
last year but ... from dark blue cloth (matching the plane), and not white. At
the moment, my main concern was to keep the rain water out of the instruments
as I discovered that water can come between my windscreen and cowling, dripping
on my transponder!
I will try to get a white (or light coloured) car cover and cut it so that it
covers both tanks (with holes for the caps), the roof and windscreen to over
the cowling. That cloth is so light that it will fit easily under my seat for
cross-country week-ends.
Vic, yes French is my mother tongue and yours is English so I suppose you like
your fish and chips with a dark Ale, isn't it, old boy? :-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Fiber vs Castle Nuts |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bruce Lina" <airlina@usadatanet.net>
Norm , I had the same question as I was building my Series 5 . I decided to
see how Boeing handled it, so on my walkarounds at work I noticed on
several different aircraft types that the control surfaces had castle nuts
instead of lock nuts. This was good enough for me so I changed out all mine
on the Kitfox to castle nuts( at any point where rotation could possibly
loosen the nut) Bruce
From: "Norm Beauchamp" <nebchmp@wcc.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Fiber vs Castle Nuts
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Norm Beauchamp <nebchmp@wcc.net>
>
> This question is primarily for those who have been in the A/C
> maintenance trade over the years. I had our Tech Adviser ( respected
> IA) inspect my aircraft once more before certification. The times he
> has inspected he makes a point that the fiber loc nuts on the control
> column, and the elevator hinge, should be castle nuts with a coter key.
> Even though the bolt is inside of a bushing. His theoy is any nut that
> moves has a chance of looseing. I respect him and appreciate his
> advice, but is this a problem? I've not heard of a problem of nuts
> coming loose in either area. Nor have I heard this being discussed
> before. Is this a something that some of you have changed on your
> own? Norm
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Flap actuator positive lock? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
Hey Foxers...I've got a question. I fly an Avid Mark IV and it uses a round
friction pad under the flap handle for the positive lock for the flaps...not
very positive. So, the whole thing depends on the tightness of a bolt to set
and hold the flaps. The problem: Once you operate the handle once or twice
it's loose again and the air flow past the flaps pushes them back up. Like I
said, not a very good system. How do they do it on the Kitfox? If anyone has
this same friction pad thing, how did you get it to work?
Steve
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel evaporation |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Michel,
I made a cover of an interesting material I found in a local fabric store.
I am not sure of it's availability now, however. It is the light vinyl
material with the soft felt like backing that is used for picnic table
covers. It was bright silver metallic. I shaped it to cover the
windshield, top and turtle deck, not thinking about the wing tanks. Anyway,
if it is available, it would be a great material for your insulating fuel
tank covers.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michel Verheughe" <michel@online.no>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel evaporation
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
>
> Thank you Vic, Matt, Scott, Marc, Jim, Kurt and Don, for your answers.
>
> The hose idea sounds interesting. It a bit like the spiral in the nose of
> camels, that keeps moisture.
> However, I might try my plan B, the cover. Yes Matt, those car covers are
> light, watertight and certainly convenient. The thing is, I already made
one
> last year but ... from dark blue cloth (matching the plane), and not
white. At
> the moment, my main concern was to keep the rain water out of the
instruments
> as I discovered that water can come between my windscreen and cowling,
dripping
> on my transponder!
> I will try to get a white (or light coloured) car cover and cut it so that
it
> covers both tanks (with holes for the caps), the roof and windscreen to
over
> the cowling. That cloth is so light that it will fit easily under my seat
for
> cross-country week-ends.
> Vic, yes French is my mother tongue and yours is English so I suppose you
like
> your fish and chips with a dark Ale, isn't it, old boy? :-)
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 10
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bill Pleso" <bill77@cox.net>
Builders,
I was a little suprised that there is no "turnbuckle" style rudder cable adjustment
like I'm used to seeing on other aircraft. Has anyone out there used
them, or found a need for them?
Bill
do not archive
Message 11
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
Has anyone mounted the Aircraft Spruce "L" shaped combination petit static tubes
underneath the wing of a Kitfox. If so, what were the results?
Thanks
Jimmie
Message 12
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| Subject: | 912 Ignition problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ed McManus" <mrgrandbanksed@earthlink.net>
I spent a considerable time researching the archives and didn't find
anything so hopefully someone on the list can help or knows someone who can.
I have an older model 4 where the ignition box is mounted in the cockpit
under the dash and all the cables feed through the firewall. Hadn't flown
for a month or so so decided to go for an afternoon flight with my son who
is also a pilot. Cranked the engine several times with no sign of life, so
popped the cowling to investigate. While checking for spark, my son notes
that the return spring in the starter switch just broke and barely turns
back to the off position. This switch only energizes the starter selenoid
and feeds the generator field. I have seperate mag switches. In fact we are
unable to remove the key and I ultimately had to break the key to get the
switch out of the dash. We then crank the engine using a jumper wire but no
spark from either mag. I do the normal wiring checks and check for closed
mag switches but everything checks out. My son thinks the starter switch has
something to do with it but I explain the generator is completely
independent of the mags and the engine should start even if the field
windings for the generator are not energized. We do several more crankings
with and without the field energized but still no spark. Decide to give it
one more crank and all of a sudden we have spark and the engine starts! I
suppose thats one reason why its best to have a pilot on the brakes and
throttle. Roll it outside for a runup and it runs great on both mags and
starts normally.
Couple days later I replace the start switch , take her outside for
runup and everything checks out including the generator. Yesterday decide to
go flying but now no generator. I check all the wiring, start switch and
fuses and all checks out. I took her up and flew around the pattern a few
times. Engine ran fine but still no generator.
Questions: 1. Is there anything common to both mags other than magneto ring
on the crankshaft?
2. Is there any relationship between the mags and the
generator.?
3. Any idea why both mags initially failed?
4. Any voltage and/or resistance checks I can do to
determine which is at fault. The regulator or generator.?
The stator was replaced by Lockwood a few years ago.
One last thought. I read that Herb Gottelt had a similar problem with John
King and had to cancel their Bahamas trip. Does anyone know if Herb ever
found the cause for his engine not starting?
Ed McManus...432 EM Kitfox 4 912...grounded
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RE: New Panel |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Marc Arseneault" <northernultralights@hotmail.com>
Jim you should be able to get your primer and paint from any local paint shop.
In Canada, I get this stuff from Canadian Tire or my local car paint supplier.
Best Regards,
Marc Arseneault
Ontario Canada
From: Jim Burke jeburke94je@direcway.com Reply-To: kitfox-list@matronics.com To:
kitfox-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: RE: New Panel Date: Sun,
04 Apr 2004 07:17:02 -0500 -- Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Burke jeburke94je@direcway.com
Thanks Marc, I will get busy and order the primer in the morning.
I think I can get the paint locally. I might be able to find the primer,
but I would imagine it is a industrial grade. James E. Burke (N94JE) -------Original
Message------- From: kitfox-list@matronics.com Date: 4/2/2004 8:17:37
PM To: kitfox-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: RE: New Panel -- Kitfox-List
message posted by: "Marc
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel evaporation |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Lowell Fitt wrote:
> It was bright silver metallic.
I see. A bit like those heat isolating blankets you find in military survival
packages, Lowell. Hum, could be an idea. Wonder how it is to saw them, though.
Have to reinforce the corners, I guess.
For those of you, builders, wouldn't it be an idea to isolate the tanks' top
before covering the fabric? Just a thought.
BWT, I found a photo of the Broussard. Here it is:
http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/Broussard.jpg
It is now Norwegian registered and fly as experimental. But it has kept the
original design and I guess, the white top is because the plane was flying for
the French air force in north Africa. ... I wish my Kitfox could have the sound
of his rotary engine, though! :-)
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Flap actuator positive lock? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Steve Cooper wrote:
> How do they do it on the Kitfox? If anyone has
> this same friction pad thing, how did you get it to work?
Mine is of leather, Steve, and it works pretty well.
Cheers,
Michel
Message 16
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Glenn Horne" <glennflys@rcn.com>
Yes. I used them on my rudder cables. Used them on the rudder
pedal end.
Glenn Horne
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Pleso
Subject: Kitfox-List: Rudder cable
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bill Pleso" <bill77@cox.net>
Builders,
I was a little suprised that there is no "turnbuckle" style rudder cable
adjustment like I'm used to seeing on other aircraft. Has anyone out there
used them, or found a need for them?
Bill
do not archive
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel evaporation |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Another possible soluting Michel, would be to paint
the area over your tanks with the same silver finish
coat that is on the other parts of your plane. It
would match and be cooler than the blue.
Throuble is that you have to remove the wings and
paint them to make this "simple" fix. But then the
solution is always with you after that with no extra
effort or weight. I suppose the blue is hard to paint
over though. May need a white coat to cover, then
silver.
I think that in any case, full tanks will vent with
outside air heating, even when covered. They just
won't vent as much.
Kurt S.
--- Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe
> <michel@online.no>
>
> Lowell Fitt wrote:
> > It was bright silver metallic.
>
> I see. A bit like those heat isolating blankets you
> find in military survival
> packages, Lowell. Hum, could be an idea. Wonder how
> it is to saw them, though.
> Have to reinforce the corners, I guess.
> For those of you, builders, wouldn't it be an idea
> to isolate the tanks' top
> before covering the fabric? Just a thought.
> BWT, I found a photo of the Broussard. Here it is:
>
> http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/Broussard.jpg
>
> It is now Norwegian registered and fly as
> experimental. But it has kept the
> original design and I guess, the white top is
> because the plane was flying for
> the French air force in north Africa. ... I wish my
> Kitfox could have the sound
> of his rotary engine, though! :-)
>
> Cheers,
> Michel
>
> do not archive
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Angle of Attack Gauge |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Herbert R Gottelt <gofalke@sbcglobal.net>
Kurt, The RiteAngle III AOA works great for me. It is easy to install and it is
accurate. I have mine calibrated for no-flap and three different flap settings.
It is gratifying to see the red light come on just when you touch down three-point
and a voice says "stall! stall! stall!".
Calibration is probably the key to excellent performance.
Herbert Gottelt. M4-1200,
Mt. Prospect, IL
kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
Clem,
I have a RightAngle too. Though I am just at the
first third of my testing, I programmed approach and
stall angles into it right away. It is my primary
approach indicator without regard to weight, and cuts
my landing distances down to little float, no bounce,
short distances. So far my shortest distance is a
235' landing roll on this last landing in my plane.
Less than 10 landings in it so far, so it enhances the
learning curve.
I also count on it to keep me safe during flight
testing. I have done stalls at all flap settings and
slow flight with it so far. No surprises and more
security.
Kurt S. KF-5
--- Clem Nichols wrote:>
> I've spent a good deal of time recently reading up
> on various angle-of-attack indicators including the
> one made by Elbie Mendenhall's company and also a
> home-built version of the Huntington Lift Reserve
> Indicator described a few years ago in the Airsoob
> Yahoo group. I was wondering about how many in the
> Kitfox group used such a device and how they felt
> about them.....
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: 912 Ignition problems |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Herbert R Gottelt <gofalke@sbcglobal.net>
Ed,
I had moved the ECM's to the firewall to prevent wire breakage. By doing so I had
to extend the 4 wires from the 2 ECM's to the 4 dual ignition coils. The problem
were the 8 connectors (2 on each of 4 wires). I had put silicon grease on
them, and the resistance must have increased to the point where 420 RPM cranking
speed was not enough to overcome this resistance. According to Lockwood,
minimum cranking speed of 300 RPM should have been sufficient. I should have
put silicon DIELECTRIC grease on the connectors. After cleaning the contacts the
engine started right up.
Herbert Gottelt, M4-1200UL
Mt. Prospect, IL
McManus <mrgrandbanksed@earthlink.net> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ed McManus"
I spent a considerable time researching the archives and didn't find
anything so hopefully someone on the list can help or knows someone who can.
I have an older model 4 where the ignition box is mounted in the cockpit
under the dash and all the cables feed through the firewall. Hadn't flown
for a month or so so decided to go for an afternoon flight with my son who
is also a pilot. Cranked the engine several times with no sign of life, so
popped the cowling to investigate. While checking for spark, my son notes
that the return spring in the starter switch just broke and barely turns
back to the off position. This switch only energizes the starter selenoid
and feeds the generator field. I have seperate mag switches. In fact we are
unable to remove the key and I ultimately had to break the key to get the
switch out of the dash. We then crank the engine using a jumper wire but no
spark from either mag. I do the normal wiring checks and check for closed
mag switches but everything checks out. My son thinks the starter switch has
something to do with it but I explain the generator is completely
independent of the mags and the engine should start even if the field
windings for the generator are not energized. We do several more crankings
with and without the field energized but still no spark. Decide to give it
one more crank and all of a sudden we have spark and the engine starts! I
suppose thats one reason why its best to have a pilot on the brakes and
throttle. Roll it outside for a runup and it runs great on both mags and
starts normally.
Couple days later I replace the start switch , take her outside for
runup and everything checks out including the generator. Yesterday decide to
go flying but now no generator. I check all the wiring, start switch and
fuses and all checks out. I took her up and flew around the pattern a few
times. Engine ran fine but still no generator.
Questions: 1. Is there anything common to both mags other than magneto ring
on the crankshaft?
2. Is there any relationship between the mags and the
generator.?
3. Any idea why both mags initially failed?
4. Any voltage and/or resistance checks I can do to
determine which is at fault. The regulator or generator.?
The stator was replaced by Lockwood a few years ago.
One last thought. I read that Herb Gottelt had a similar problem with John
King and had to cancel their Bahamas trip. Does anyone know if Herb ever
found the cause for his engine not starting?
Ed McManus...432 EM Kitfox 4 912...grounded
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot Static |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John E. King " <kingjohn@erols.com>
Jimmie,
I installed on on my Series 6 and it works very well.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
Jimmie Blackwell wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
>
>Has anyone mounted the Aircraft Spruce "L" shaped combination petit static tubes
underneath the wing of a Kitfox. If so, what were the results?
>
>Thanks
>Jimmie
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Flap actuator positive lock? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John E. King " <kingjohn@erols.com>
Steve,
My Model IV Kitfox had a similar design using a leather washer as the
friction device. However, it required periodic adjustment to secure the
flaperons in place. I designed a latching system the is easy to make
and replaces the existing one provided in the Kitfox. This is
documented on the SportFlight web site. The direct link is:
<http://www.sportflight.com/kfb/sampiss.htm#FlapControl>
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
Steve Cooper wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
>
>Hey Foxers...I've got a question. I fly an Avid Mark IV and it uses a round
>friction pad under the flap handle for the positive lock for the flaps...not
>very positive. So, the whole thing depends on the tightness of a bolt to set
>and hold the flaps. The problem: Once you operate the handle once or twice
>it's loose again and the air flow past the flaps pushes them back up. Like I
>said, not a very good system. How do they do it on the Kitfox? If anyone has
>this same friction pad thing, how did you get it to work?
>
>Steve
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Angle of Attack Gauge |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Robert Beck" <trevor@inter.net>
Elbie:
I thought a prune was a dried apple.
Robert Beck :-)
> Those that don't understand the difference between
> a stall warning and an AOA contact me off list, as
> different as apples and prunes :-)
> Elbie
> riteangle3@aol.com
Do not archive
Message 23
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Graeme Toft" <msm@byterocky.net>
Hi, is anyone able to tell me the dimensions of the tail spring for a Mk1 Fox.
Ours appears to have lost a lot of its shape and as no agents are available here,
I am once again relying on your support to assist. The current spring is 1
1/4" W X 1/4" D X 12" L. It has a small curve or bend that is 3 1/2" deep when
the spring is laid flat on either end. When set up on the plane the distance
between the top of the tail wheel and the bottom of the rudder is only 3".
Another issue is how do we tell the difference between the Mk1 & Mk 2 as we really
aren't sure what we have.
Thanks a lot guys
Graeme
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