Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:44 AM - Re: Magnetic interfierence (Fox5flyer)
     2. 04:42 AM - Re: Prop angle setting (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
     3. 06:35 AM - Re: Polycarbonate Header Tank sealant (Lowell Fitt)
     4. 06:56 AM - Re: Polycarbonate Header Tank sealant (Rick)
     5. 09:16 AM - Re: Prop angle setting (Shane Sather)
     6. 11:00 AM - Re: Prop angle setting (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
     7. 11:14 AM - Re: Prop angle setting (Bob Unternaehrer)
     8. 04:19 PM - Has Anyone Financed a Kitfox? (Cory Emberson)
     9. 04:29 PM - Bryan Lee Fisher's Speedster in July Kitplanes (Cory Emberson)
    10. 05:20 PM - Free gps navigation software (Clem Nichols)
    11. 09:09 PM - Airborne Cell Phones (Les Chambers)
 
 
 
Message 1
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Magnetic interfierence | 
      
      --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
      
      What would this do to any electric instruments such as the turn coordinator,
      artificial horizon, etc.  Don't these use small magnetic motors for power?
      Darrel
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Kirk Martenson" <kirk@mninter.net>
      Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Magnetic interfierence
      
      
      > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kirk Martenson" <kirk@mninter.net>
      >
      > Dan:
      >
      >   I took the demagnetizer and held it about 1/4" away from the front cross
      > tube and the "V" on the inside of the aircraft. I also demagnetized the
      over
      > head cross tubes in the cockpit. I did not do the whole airframe.
      >
      >  I held the demagnetizer away by using my fingers, turned on the switch,
      and
      > I passed the thing around about 3 times.  I then tried the compass.  I
      can't
      > remember if I had to repeat this or not.  I think if you repeat too many
      > times, the magnetism will return.
      >
      >  I did not take out any avionics or lights, but I did not have a GPS at
      the
      > time.  I would remove that if you have one.
      >
      > Also, take off your watch when you do this.  I was told it will mess up a
      > watch pretty good.
      >
      > Good Luck,
      >
      >
      > Kirk Martenson
      > ----- Original Message ----- 
      > From: "Daniel Aller" <daller1@zoominternet.net>
      > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
      > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Magnetic interfierence
      >
      >
      > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Daniel Aller"
      > <daller1@zoominternet.net>
      > >
      > > Hello Kert Martenson:
      > > I have a Classic IV. My compass is out 50 degrees. How did you
      demagnetize
      > > your tubes ? Did you do the ones near the compass or the entire air
      > > plane.Was it necessary to disconnect strobes or avionics?
      > >
      > > Dan Aller
      > > Classic IV
      > > N239DA
      > > ----- Original Message ----- 
      > > From: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
      > > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
      > > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Magnetic interfierence
      > >
      > >
      > > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Vic Jacko" <vicwj@earthlink.net>
      > > >
      > > > That demagnetizer sure looks a lot like the one we used (many years
      ago)
      > > to
      > > > demagnetize the old  7" reel to reel audio tapes.   It would also work
      > on
      > > > video tapes!
      > > >
      > > > Vic
      > > >
      > > > do not archive
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > ----- Original Message ----- 
      > > > From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
      > > > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
      > > > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Magnetic interfierence
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
      > > > <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
      > > > >
      > > > > This looks like a good one.  Maybe your EAA chapter
      > > > > could buy one for everyone.  You don't need it often
      > > > > and the cost could be spread out to all the users?
      > > > >
      > > > > Kurt S.
      > > > >
      > > > > Do not archive
      > > > >
      > > > > --- Kirk Martenson <kirk@mninter.net> wrote:
      > > > > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kirk Martenson"
      > > > > > <kirk@mninter.net>
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Hello Graeme:
      > > > > >
      > > > > > I had the same problem, so I used a demagnetizer
      > > > > > that I bought from MSC
      > > > > > industrial supply company.  It worked great.  Now I
      > > > > > have my compass mounted
      > > > > > on my windshield, and have been able to adjust it
      > > > > > properly.
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Good Luck,
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Kirk Martenson
      > > > > > Classic IV
      > > > > >
      > > > > > Here is the link:
      > > > > >
      > > > >
      > > >
      > >
      >
      http://www.mscdirect.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=2010009&pcount=15&Product_Id=174430&Keyword=Y
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > > > __________________________________
      > > > > http://messenger.yahoo.com/
      > > > >
      > > > >
      > > >
      > > >
      > >
      > >
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 2
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Prop angle setting | 
      
      --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
      
      In a message dated 6/9/04 8:48:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
      jeffery@polarnet.ca writes:
      
      
      > I placed the level at the prop hub to determine the angle of the plane and 
      > have a setting of 12 degrees. I then placed this same protractor at the prop
      
      > tip. And this is where I get mixed up. I leveled the bubble and to do that I
      
      > rotated the wheel back and now have a number 1 on the other side of the 0 
      > (all reading are from the top scale) So Does this mean that my current pitch
      is 
      > 13 degrees. And, if so to get a lower pitch would I want to reduce these 
      > degrees to perhaps 10 to get more power on take off.
      > 
      > Thank you for any help you can provide.
      > 
      > 
      > Shane
      > 
      > 
      
      Shane,
          I'm a little confused as to what you are saying but, maybe this will 
      help.  Your 12 degrees when measuring the prop hub sounds about right (mine is
      11 
      degrees).  Say for example, you want to set the prop at 10 degrees at the tip.
      
       Add 10 degrees to your initial 12 degrees and dial that into the tool (22 
      degrees).  Move the tool to the tip and rotate the blade until the bubble is 
      level.  That's all there is to it.  You have set 10 degrees of pitch into the 
      prop with reference to the 12 degrees you read at the hub.  Does this make sense?
      
      Don Smythe
      DO NOT ARCHIVE
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 3
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Polycarbonate Header Tank sealant | 
      
      --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
      
      This might be a good application for the clamps sold to close the ends of
      firesleeve.  Needs a special tool to tighten, though.  Just looked at ACS,
      their tool $166.   Contact me off list if you think you might want to try
      this type of clamp.  I think I might be able to help.
      
      Lowell
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilohcom@c-magic.com>
      Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Polycarbonate Header Tank sealant
      
      
      > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer"
      <shilohcom@c-magic.com>
      >
      > I would amplify Rick's solution, but might add that when plastic fittings
      of
      > most anykind leak, you can improve things by placing a hose clamp or
      better
      > yet a non-replaceable SS bar clamp if you have access to the tooling to do
      > so around the outside of the threaded hub. Doesn't look so cool, but
      helps.
      > Bob U.
      > ----- Original Message -----
      > From: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
      > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
      > Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Polycarbonate Header Tank sealant
      >
      >
      > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
      > >
      > > Take it out, dry the fitting and hole. Use any of the fuel designated
      > > sealants. I believe I purchased a life time can of tight seal. ACS has
      > > several to choose from. Don't over tighten the fitting as I am sure you
      > > already knew that. Good luck.
      > >
      > > Rick
      > >
      > > -----Original Message-----
      > > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
      > > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Peter
      > > Brookes
      > > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
      > > Subject: Kitfox-List: Polycarbonate Header Tank sealant
      > >
      > >
      > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Peter Brookes"
      > > <pdbrookes@blueyonder.co.uk>
      > >
      > > Hi,
      > >
      > > I recently added the rear-mounted header tank in my Kitfox II to
      overcome
      > > some fuel flow problems and add the low fuel warning sensor. It works a
      > > treat, but I am getting fuel seepage between the brass fittings and the
      > > polycarbonate tank. I used a wrench when tightening the fittings, but I
      > > guess it moved somehow.
      > >
      > > Does anyone one know the best method to seal this join?
      > >
      > > Thanks
      > >
      > > Pete.
      > >
      > >
      > > ---
      > >
      > >
      >
      > ---
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 4
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Polycarbonate Header Tank sealant | 
      
      --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
      
      You can get that tool for less than 40 bucks. I will have to see where I
      purchased it, works great. Or you could make one not real complex.
      Rick
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
      Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Polycarbonate Header Tank sealant
      
      
      --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
      
      This might be a good application for the clamps sold to close the ends of
      firesleeve.  Needs a special tool to tighten, though.  Just looked at ACS,
      their tool $166.   Contact me off list if you think you might want to try
      this type of clamp.  I think I might be able to help.
      
      Lowell
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilohcom@c-magic.com>
      Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Polycarbonate Header Tank sealant
      
      
      > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer"
      <shilohcom@c-magic.com>
      >
      > I would amplify Rick's solution, but might add that when plastic fittings
      of
      > most anykind leak, you can improve things by placing a hose clamp or
      better
      > yet a non-replaceable SS bar clamp if you have access to the tooling to do
      > so around the outside of the threaded hub. Doesn't look so cool, but
      helps.
      > Bob U.
      > ----- Original Message -----
      > From: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
      > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
      > Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Polycarbonate Header Tank sealant
      >
      >
      > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
      > >
      > > Take it out, dry the fitting and hole. Use any of the fuel designated
      > > sealants. I believe I purchased a life time can of tight seal. ACS has
      > > several to choose from. Don't over tighten the fitting as I am sure you
      > > already knew that. Good luck.
      > >
      > > Rick
      > >
      > > -----Original Message-----
      > > From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
      > > [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Peter
      > > Brookes
      > > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
      > > Subject: Kitfox-List: Polycarbonate Header Tank sealant
      > >
      > >
      > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Peter Brookes"
      > > <pdbrookes@blueyonder.co.uk>
      > >
      > > Hi,
      > >
      > > I recently added the rear-mounted header tank in my Kitfox II to
      overcome
      > > some fuel flow problems and add the low fuel warning sensor. It works a
      > > treat, but I am getting fuel seepage between the brass fittings and the
      > > polycarbonate tank. I used a wrench when tightening the fittings, but I
      > > guess it moved somehow.
      > >
      > > Does anyone one know the best method to seal this join?
      > >
      > > Thanks
      > >
      > > Pete.
      > >
      > >
      > > ---
      > >
      > >
      >
      > ---
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 5
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Prop angle setting | 
      
      --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Shane Sather" <jeffery@polarnet.ca>
      
      Don
      
      I think I have it now.
      
      So if I want to check to see what degrees it is set at now, I follow the
      same process. First set at hub to get plane angle and then move the tool to
      the tip and level the bubble. Would that reading on the tool give me the
      current setting?
      
      I am just trying to find out what I have now and maybe change that setting
      to a little more pitch (for more power on takeoff).
      
      Thank for all your help
      
      
      Shane
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: <AlbertaIV@aol.com>
      Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Prop angle setting
      
      
      > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
      >
      > In a message dated 6/9/04 8:48:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
      > jeffery@polarnet.ca writes:
      >
      >
      > > I placed the level at the prop hub to determine the angle of the plane
      and
      > > have a setting of 12 degrees. I then placed this same protractor at the
      prop
      > > tip. And this is where I get mixed up. I leveled the bubble and to do
      that I
      > > rotated the wheel back and now have a number 1 on the other side of the
      0
      > > (all reading are from the top scale) So Does this mean that my current
      pitch is
      > > 13 degrees. And, if so to get a lower pitch would I want to reduce these
      > > degrees to perhaps 10 to get more power on take off.
      > >
      > > Thank you for any help you can provide.
      > >
      > >
      > > Shane
      > >
      > >
      >
      > Shane,
      >     I'm a little confused as to what you are saying but, maybe this will
      > help.  Your 12 degrees when measuring the prop hub sounds about right
      (mine is 11
      > degrees).  Say for example, you want to set the prop at 10 degrees at the
      tip.
      >  Add 10 degrees to your initial 12 degrees and dial that into the tool (22
      > degrees).  Move the tool to the tip and rotate the blade until the bubble
      is
      > level.  That's all there is to it.  You have set 10 degrees of pitch into
      the
      > prop with reference to the 12 degrees you read at the hub.  Does this make
      sense?
      >
      > Don Smythe
      > DO NOT ARCHIVE
      >
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 6
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Prop angle setting | 
      
      --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
      
      So if I want to check to see what degrees it is set at now, I follow the
      same process. First set at hub to get plane angle and then move the tool to
      the tip and level the bubble. Would that reading on the tool give me the
      current setting?
      
      I am just trying to find out what I have now and maybe change that setting
      to a little more pitch (for more power on takeoff).
      
      Thank for all your help
      
      
      Shane
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      
      
      Shane,
          Yes, move the tool to the tip and level the bubble.  Subtract the angle 
      you measured at the hub and you have the actual blade angle.
          Let me add one more thing about reading the blades.  I found that 
      measuring at the blade tips causes a 1.5 - 2 degree error between the three blades.
      
      I optically mapped my blades every inch from the hubs to the tips to see that 
      all three blades were  exactly the same.  All comparative readings were very 
      close until I got to the last three inches near the tips.  I argued with Warp 
      Drive about this and they never did agree that it was possible for their blades
      
      to have this error.  Anyway, I ended up using the 3/4 blade length as a 
      measuring point and am much happier with the results.  I put a steel measuring
      rule 
      along the blade and against the hub and place the tool at 21 inches (I 
      think).   It's important to place the tool at "exactly" the same distance from
      the 
      hub on all three blades.  Due to the twist of the warp prop, each 1 inch of 
      distance along the blade is around 1 degree difference in pitch (from memory).
      
      You can see, if you just throw the tool on a blade you could be an inch off 
      from the last one you adjusted.  Therefore, you would be inducing an error in the
      
      adjustment.  
      
      My opinion and sticking to it.
      Don Smythe
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 7
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Prop angle setting | 
      
      --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilocom@c-magic.com>
      
      <<<<I am just trying to find out what I have now and maybe change that
      setting
      to a little more pitch (for more power on takeoff).>>>
      
      You'll need less pitch to get "more RPM" on take off for faster
      accelleration and climb rate at the expense of cruise speed.  bob U.
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Shane Sather" <jeffery@polarnet.ca>
      Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Prop angle setting
      
      
      > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Shane Sather" <jeffery@polarnet.ca>
      >
      > Don
      >
      > I think I have it now.
      >
      > So if I want to check to see what degrees it is set at now, I follow the
      > same process. First set at hub to get plane angle and then move the tool
      to
      > the tip and level the bubble. Would that reading on the tool give me the
      > current setting?
      >
      > I am just trying to find out what I have now and maybe change that setting
      > to a little more pitch (for more power on takeoff).
      >
      > Thank for all your help
      >
      >
      > Shane
      > ----- Original Message -----
      > From: <AlbertaIV@aol.com>
      > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
      > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Prop angle setting
      >
      >
      > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
      > >
      > > In a message dated 6/9/04 8:48:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
      > > jeffery@polarnet.ca writes:
      > >
      > >
      > > > I placed the level at the prop hub to determine the angle of the plane
      > and
      > > > have a setting of 12 degrees. I then placed this same protractor at
      the
      > prop
      > > > tip. And this is where I get mixed up. I leveled the bubble and to do
      > that I
      > > > rotated the wheel back and now have a number 1 on the other side of
      the
      > 0
      > > > (all reading are from the top scale) So Does this mean that my current
      > pitch is
      > > > 13 degrees. And, if so to get a lower pitch would I want to reduce
      these
      > > > degrees to perhaps 10 to get more power on take off.
      > > >
      > > > Thank you for any help you can provide.
      > > >
      > > >
      > > > Shane
      > > >
      > > >
      > >
      > > Shane,
      > >     I'm a little confused as to what you are saying but, maybe this will
      > > help.  Your 12 degrees when measuring the prop hub sounds about right
      > (mine is 11
      > > degrees).  Say for example, you want to set the prop at 10 degrees at
      the
      > tip.
      > >  Add 10 degrees to your initial 12 degrees and dial that into the tool
      (22
      > > degrees).  Move the tool to the tip and rotate the blade until the
      bubble
      > is
      > > level.  That's all there is to it.  You have set 10 degrees of pitch
      into
      > the
      > > prop with reference to the 12 degrees you read at the hub.  Does this
      make
      > sense?
      > >
      > > Don Smythe
      > > DO NOT ARCHIVE
      > >
      > >
      >
      >
      > ---
      >
      >
      
      ---
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 8
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Has Anyone Financed a Kitfox? | 
      
      --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Cory Emberson" <bootless@earthlink.net>
      
      Hello!
      
      I'm writing an article for Kitplanes magazine about financing for
      homebuilts. Has anyone had any experience in financing your Kitfox  (or other plane
      that you've built), and would you care to share that experience? Also, if
      you've had the experience of financing an already-completed homebuilt, I would
      love to hear from you as well.
      
      Thanks so much! If you care to contact me off-list, my email address is
      cory@lightspeededit.com.  My "list" email address is bootless@earthlink.net.
      
      Best,
      Cory Emberson
      KHWD
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 9
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Bryan Lee Fisher's Speedster in July Kitplanes | 
      
      --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Cory Emberson" <bootless@earthlink.net>
      
      Hi -
      
      Just a quick thank you to Bryan for sharing the story of hs beautiful Speedster
      with me, and to let you know that you can see it featured on pp. 42-43 of the
      July Kitplanes magazine (Interiors and exteriors).  It's gorgeous!
      
      best, Cory
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 10
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Free gps navigation software | 
      
      --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
      
      Here's a neat site for anyone considering a program such as Anywhere Map to use with a pocket pc for navigation purposes.  They accept donations, but otherwise, it's free.  http://www.pocketfms.com   Check it out.
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 11
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Airborne Cell Phones | 
      
      --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Les Chambers" <l_chambers@ckt.net>
      
      Here is an interesting view point from AOPA's site on flying in Canada.
      "Cell phones are actually legal to use while in the air in Canada. Nav
      Canada encourages pilots who have had communications failures to use a cell
      phone to contact the control tower or other ATC facility.  It is completely
      legal to use cell phones while flying for arranging rides from the airport,
      booking hotels or ordering pizza to be delivered to the airport that you are
      inbound to in Canada. Contrary to rumors, there has never been a reported
      case of airborne cell phone use causing cell phone system malfunctions."
      
      Les Chambers
      Classic IV
      
      
      
      
      
      
 
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