Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:59 AM - Re: Kitfox cross country flying - For Gil (Gill Levesque)
2. 06:47 AM - Maule was Re: (Lmar)
3. 11:38 AM - Re: Fuel tank coating (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
4. 12:58 PM - Re: Fuel tank coating (Scott McClintock)
5. 01:51 PM - Re: (Don)
6. 02:29 PM - Re: Fuel tank coating (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
7. 02:30 PM - Re: Fuel tank coating (Rick)
8. 02:36 PM - Re: Fuel tank coating (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
9. 03:43 PM - Re: Fuel tank coating (Lowell Fitt)
10. 04:22 PM - Jabiru Engines (Jose M. Toro)
11. 04:45 PM - Re: Jabiru Engines (Allan Aaron)
12. 05:24 PM - Follow-up to fuel tank coating ()
13. 05:45 PM - Re: Fuel tank coating (Bruce Lina)
14. 06:06 PM - Re: Fuel tank coating (Rick)
15. 06:23 PM - Re: Jabiru Engines (Mark735BW@aol.com)
16. 06:39 PM - Re: Jabiru Engines (Steve Cooper)
17. 07:13 PM - Re: Fuel tank coating (Jeff Hays)
18. 07:45 PM - Re: Follow-up to fuel tank coating (Don Pearsall)
19. 08:04 PM - Re: Fuel tank coating (Bob Unternaehrer)
20. 08:05 PM - WEIGHT AND BALANCE ()
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Kitfox cross country flying - For Gil |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Gill Levesque <canpilot03@yahoo.ca>
Gary,
I met you at the York breakfast last year! Did not see you this year! We could
get together and do some flyin some time! Welland is only about 45 min. away!
Listen, can you tell me how your rear strut fairings are trimmed for clearance
when folding!( dimensions from the fuselage strut bolt!) the wings? I don,t
want to trim them wrong ,only to find out when(?) I do fold them!! Keep in touch!
Gil Levesque
C-IGVL
kitfoxjunky <kitfoxjunky@decisionlabs.com> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "kitfoxjunky"
Hi Gil
I have a Kitfox IV hangered in Brantford. Sounds like we are in roughly the
same geometry. Be nice to meet some of the local Kitfox crowd. Maybe can
can hook up and do some flying some day.
Gary Walsh
C-GOOT
www.decisionlabs.com/kitfox
Still alive and flyin!!!!
Gil
---------------------------------
Message 2
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Rule breakdown below pts rule name
description
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lmar <my93avid@yahoo.com>
I found a great site for the Maule
http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/Maule_Tailwheel.pdf
It appears that the steering pin had been replaced backwards and the
spring cut to adjust the incorrect method! I had suspected that
possible by how soon it released. I even tried to reverse the
steering tit, but when it would'nt fit, I assumed I had it wrong. A
picture can be worth a 1000 words. Funny thing, I'd been
complaining about this for 2years, but assumed it was me. A couple
weeks ago, I landed on payment for the 1st time and lost it when I
couldn't get the tail wheel back. It " broke" with no force at
all. Luckly, I gave into it and just did a 180 on the runway. If
anyone saw it they would have wondered "whats his hurray?" as to the
speed of my "turn around". Boy, I like grass!
Larry
--- In avid_flyer@yahoogroups.com, "my93avid" <my93avid@y...> wrote:
> Can the "break away" sensitivity of the Maule be made LESS
> sensitive. Currently it full swivels with less than full
> application of rudder. I have checked it and it does not have a
shim
> under the "horn part" (lack of a better word), but it does unlock
> prematurely.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry
---------------------------------
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Fuel tank coating |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
problem is that the inside coating (white stuff, maybe Kreem) is peeling off
in huge sheets. I know it will have to come out and the tanks cleaned and
re-coated. I am looking for some best practices. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Brett
Brett,
Just back off vacation so here is my 2cents (late). I tested both
Acetone and MEK to remove the Kreeme. I could hardly tell the difference in the
cleaning ability between the two. Acetone is a lot cheaper and easier on the
health.
I would put at least two gallons in one tank and slosh for about 20-30
minutes (turning the tank every couple minutes). Then, use the same solution to
put in the other tank. Follow up with some clean Acetone for a second slosh.
I would fill the tanks with water and pressure test (using MOUTH pressure
only). IMHO, If they don't leak, I would not reseal.
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Fuel tank coating |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Scott McClintock <scott_mcclintock@dot.state.ak.us>
Brett,
Don is right but to get all of the old stuff out, add maybe a dozen stainless steel
nuts in there.
They will break up the loose stuff better. Agitate the heck out of it and you may
want to repeat the process untill you get it ALL out.
That stuff will clog fuel lines, carb jets, injectors etc. real bad.
Scott in Nome
DO NOT ARCHIVE
AlbertaIV@aol.com wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
> problem is that the inside coating (white stuff, maybe Kreem) is peeling off
> in huge sheets. I know it will have to come out and the tanks cleaned and
> re-coated. I am looking for some best practices. Any suggestions?
> Thanks,
>
> Brett
>
> Brett,
> Just back off vacation so here is my 2cents (late). I tested both
> Acetone and MEK to remove the Kreeme. I could hardly tell the difference in
the
> cleaning ability between the two. Acetone is a lot cheaper and easier on the
> health.
> I would put at least two gallons in one tank and slosh for about 20-30
> minutes (turning the tank every couple minutes). Then, use the same solution
to
> put in the other tank. Follow up with some clean Acetone for a second slosh.
> I would fill the tanks with water and pressure test (using MOUTH pressure
> only). IMHO, If they don't leak, I would not reseal.
> Don Smythe
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
Message 5
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Rule breakdown below pts rule name
description
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don" <donfox@inreach.com>
Yes , do what I did and take the plate off that unlocks it. You will
still have plenty off control and it won't embarrass you any more like it
used to do me . you just have to careful pushing it backwards. Don
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lmar" <my93avid@yahoo.com>
<Kitfox-List@matronics.com>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lmar <my93avid@yahoo.com>
>
> Can the "break away" sensitivity of the Maule be made LESS sensitive.
Currently it full swivels with less than full application of rudder. I have
checked it and it does not have a shim under the "horn part" (lack of a
better word), but it does unlock prematurely.
> Thanks,
> Larry
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Fuel tank coating |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 7/8/04 12:59:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
scott_mcclintock@dot.state.ak.us writes:
> Don is right but to get all of the old stuff out, add maybe a dozen
> stainless steel
> nuts in there.
>
I don't think I would put steel nuts in the tank. They will get between the
baffle plates and be stuck in there forever.
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 7
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Subject: | Fuel tank coating |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
Why take a chance, not worth all the work you have done. Get the new tanks.
I know.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
AlbertaIV@aol.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel tank coating
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
problem is that the inside coating (white stuff, maybe Kreem) is peeling off
in huge sheets. I know it will have to come out and the tanks cleaned and
re-coated. I am looking for some best practices. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Brett
Brett,
Just back off vacation so here is my 2cents (late). I tested both
Acetone and MEK to remove the Kreeme. I could hardly tell the difference
in the
cleaning ability between the two. Acetone is a lot cheaper and easier on
the
health.
I would put at least two gallons in one tank and slosh for about 20-30
minutes (turning the tank every couple minutes). Then, use the same
solution to
put in the other tank. Follow up with some clean Acetone for a second
slosh.
I would fill the tanks with water and pressure test (using MOUTH
pressure
only). IMHO, If they don't leak, I would not reseal.
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Fuel tank coating |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
Why take a chance, not worth all the work you have done. Get the new tanks.
I know.
Rick
Rick,
We used to beat this thread to death. I never could find any firm
evidence that the "new" tanks SS provided were made of anything different from
the
"old" tanks. You have any info on this? Also, never did see anything where
the material in the old tanks was not suitable for gasoline. Anyway, when did
the "new" tanks hit the production schedule at SS?
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Fuel tank coating |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
I respectfully agree with Don. I have the vintage tanks in question and see
no problems after 7 years and 600 hours.
Risk if you have any personal information please let us in on it. It
doesn't really help giving strong advice and then withholding pertinent
evidence.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: <AlbertaIV@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel tank coating
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
>
> Why take a chance, not worth all the work you have done. Get the new
tanks.
> I know.
>
> Rick
>
>
> Rick,
> We used to beat this thread to death. I never could find any firm
> evidence that the "new" tanks SS provided were made of anything different
from the
> "old" tanks. You have any info on this? Also, never did see anything
where
> the material in the old tanks was not suitable for gasoline. Anyway, when
did
> the "new" tanks hit the production schedule at SS?
> Don Smythe
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 10
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro@yahoo.com>
To those of you who have experience with Jabiru engines, could you share your experience?
What do you think about performance of the Jabiru 2200 and about the
manufacturer support?
Jos M. Toro, P.E.
Computer Systems Validation Engineer
Eli-Lilly PR05
---------------------------------
Message 11
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Allan Aaron" <aaaron@tvp.com.au>
120 hours to date in my Avid speedwing and I love it. Haven't had any cause yet
to need support.
Allan
-----Original Message-----
From: Jose M. Toro [mailto:jose_m_toro@yahoo.com]
To:
kitfox-list@matronics.com.Rule.breakdown.below.pts.rule.name.description
Subject: Kitfox-List: Jabiru Engines
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro@yahoo.com>
To those of you who have experience with Jabiru engines, could you share your experience?
What do you think about performance of the Jabiru 2200 and about the
manufacturer support?
Jos M. Toro, P.E.
Computer Systems Validation Engineer
Eli-Lilly PR05
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Message 12
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Subject: | Follow-up to fuel tank coating |
Rule breakdown below
pts rule name description
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: <brettandsandy@numail.org>
First of all, thanks to all who responded. Your opinions, experience and
honesty are invaluable.
1. The resin was changed in mid to late '95 +- to the same resin used in
underground fuel tanks.
(no coating required)
2. Skystar is close to producing a spun plastic wing fuel tank to replace
the fiberglass. As a matter of fact, I personally think if enough of us
called and ordered them, (maybe group order with a discount) they would go
ahead and have the molds made. ( I hope I'm not talking out of school here,
Dave). Does anyone have an opinion on this type of fuel tank?
Brett in Joja
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Fuel tank coating |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bruce Lina" <airlina@usadatanet.net>
I will back up what Rick is saying about the tanks being made of a different
composite structure starting in the late 90's. I bought my Series 5 in May
of 1999, and had concerns about the tank quality. I talked with one of the
tech guys (when SS had real tech guys who were A&P's) either Mark Budak or
Dan Hanson , can't recall and he assured me that I did not need to use the
Kreem in my tanks as they were made of the same material as underground fuel
storage tanks.Personally ,I think the Kreem is does more trouble than good.
When I was at the Skystar facility when buying my plane, I found a ladder
and looked in the tanks of the Series 5 demo that SS had built and could see
that the Kreem had started to come loose from the tanks.That convinced me
not to use the stuff. Keep in mind that I use 100LL exclusively. -----
Original Message -----
From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel tank coating
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
>
> I respectfully agree with Don. I have the vintage tanks in question and
see
> no problems after 7 years and 600 hours.
>
> Risk if you have any personal information please let us in on it. It
> doesn't really help giving strong advice and then withholding pertinent
> evidence.
>
> Lowell
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <AlbertaIV@aol.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel tank coating
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
> >
> >
> > Why take a chance, not worth all the work you have done. Get the new
> tanks.
> > I know.
> >
> > Rick
> >
> >
> > Rick,
> > We used to beat this thread to death. I never could find any firm
> > evidence that the "new" tanks SS provided were made of anything
different
> from the
> > "old" tanks. You have any info on this? Also, never did see anything
> where
> > the material in the old tanks was not suitable for gasoline. Anyway,
when
> did
> > the "new" tanks hit the production schedule at SS?
> > Don Smythe
> > DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Fuel tank coating |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
Not sure where the strong advice observation came from, just my opinion. I
don't remember the date. I did talk to SS years ago and was told about the
difference in tank composition. Both tanks are strong, one is just more
susceptible to alcohol in auto fuels. If you run 100LL not an issue. Let me
say it this way. If the tanks were mine "I" would not risk getting all the
old sealer out. To many people have commented on residual sealant coming out
of the tanks for my likening. Yes, I suppose it can be done, but why would
you, especially in light of the info received about the new spun tanks, now
that's a winner. I would love to run auto fuel though my turbo subaru, but
don't dare due to the fiberglass tanks, old style pre 1994. My apologies to
the list for my previous short post on a serious subject.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel tank coating
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
I respectfully agree with Don. I have the vintage tanks in question and see
no problems after 7 years and 600 hours.
Risk if you have any personal information please let us in on it. It
doesn't really help giving strong advice and then withholding pertinent
evidence.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: <AlbertaIV@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel tank coating
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
>
> Why take a chance, not worth all the work you have done. Get the new
tanks.
> I know.
>
> Rick
>
>
> Rick,
> We used to beat this thread to death. I never could find any firm
> evidence that the "new" tanks SS provided were made of anything different
from the
> "old" tanks. You have any info on this? Also, never did see anything
where
> the material in the old tanks was not suitable for gasoline. Anyway, when
did
> the "new" tanks hit the production schedule at SS?
> Don Smythe
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Jabiru Engines |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mark735BW@aol.com
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Jabiru Engines |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
I have a 2200 installed in my Avid Mark IV Heavy Hauler and I love it. It is
so smooth. Fuel consumption is around 3.5 to 4.5 GPH. I bought my engine
used with only 5 hours on it...but it had supposedly been overheated so I
went ahead and rebuilt it. Factory support was top notch. A gasket set will
cost you $110 and a set of rings are$60. I had my crank polished and
magnafluxed and I also installed the new style 4340 rods. They were a bit
pricey...about $900. My cylinders has some minor oxydation so I had them
honed and re-ringed the pistons. I can tell you that the engine is built
like a watch. It is awsome. The quality is better than anything I've ever
worked on and I've overhauled a LOT of engine. You can have the heads,
pistons and barrels off the block in less than 2 hours.
I will tell you this...the MOST IMPORTANT THING about success or failure
with a Jabiru engine is the quality of your installation job and weather or
not you follow Jabiru's giudance for cooling. If you do that, you'll have a
great powerplant. If you try to re-engineer their stuff, thinking that your
way is better you'll be headed down the slippery slope. Good Luck!
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro@yahoo.com>
To:
<kitfox-list@matronics.com.Rule.breakdown.below.pts.rule.name.description>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Jabiru Engines
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro@yahoo.com>
>
> To those of you who have experience with Jabiru engines, could you share
your experience? What do you think about performance of the Jabiru 2200 and
about the manufacturer support?
>
>
> Jos M. Toro, P.E.
> Computer Systems Validation Engineer
> Eli-Lilly PR05
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 17
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|
Subject: | Fuel tank coating |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeff Hays" <jeff.hays@aselia.com>
Slosh your tanks with MEK, dilute the Kreem with MEK, slosh the tanks a
couple
time and let them dry. You will have no problems. I think the trouble that
has
come up has to do with not using enough MEK for either pre-rinsing the
tanks,
or not diluting the Kreem enough. I tested tome of that stuff and it is hard
to scrape off with a chisel once cured. This Kreem debate has been on the
list
for about ten years now, let it die I say. :) My tanks leaked like sieves
before
I Kreem'd them. No problems of any sort since.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rick
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Fuel tank coating
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
Not sure where the strong advice observation came from, just my opinion. I
don't remember the date. I did talk to SS years ago and was told about the
difference in tank composition. Both tanks are strong, one is just more
susceptible to alcohol in auto fuels. If you run 100LL not an issue. Let me
say it this way. If the tanks were mine "I" would not risk getting all the
old sealer out. To many people have commented on residual sealant coming out
of the tanks for my likening. Yes, I suppose it can be done, but why would
you, especially in light of the info received about the new spun tanks, now
that's a winner. I would love to run auto fuel though my turbo subaru, but
don't dare due to the fiberglass tanks, old style pre 1994. My apologies to
the list for my previous short post on a serious subject.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lowell Fitt
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel tank coating
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
I respectfully agree with Don. I have the vintage tanks in question and see
no problems after 7 years and 600 hours.
Risk if you have any personal information please let us in on it. It
doesn't really help giving strong advice and then withholding pertinent
evidence.
Lowell
----- Original Message -----
From: <AlbertaIV@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel tank coating
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
>
> Why take a chance, not worth all the work you have done. Get the new
tanks.
> I know.
>
> Rick
>
>
> Rick,
> We used to beat this thread to death. I never could find any firm
> evidence that the "new" tanks SS provided were made of anything different
from the
> "old" tanks. You have any info on this? Also, never did see anything
where
> the material in the old tanks was not suitable for gasoline. Anyway, when
did
> the "new" tanks hit the production schedule at SS?
> Don Smythe
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 18
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Subject: | Follow-up to fuel tank coating |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
Brett,
Tell us more about the plastic Kitfox tanks. Where did you get that info?
Plastic would be great, as it is impervious to most chemicals and flexible.
About 7 years ago, a supplier in Oregon was offering "roto-molded" plastic
tanks for the Avid, and I put that info in the Kitfox newsletter I was
producing at the time. I think he did not have many sales, but I thought
that would be a great alternative to the fiberglass ones. I told him he
should produce tanks for the KF, but I don't think he did.
Don Pearsall
Message 19
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|
Subject: | Re: Fuel tank coating |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilohcom@c-magic.com>
Don,,, Isn't the idea of sealing to prevent auto gas from eating at the
fiberglass, causing new leaks??? bob U.
----- Original Message -----
From: <AlbertaIV@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Fuel tank coating
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
> problem is that the inside coating (white stuff, maybe Kreem) is peeling
off
> in huge sheets. I know it will have to come out and the tanks cleaned and
> re-coated. I am looking for some best practices. Any suggestions?
> Thanks,
>
> Brett
>
>
> Brett,
> Just back off vacation so here is my 2cents (late). I tested both
> Acetone and MEK to remove the Kreeme. I could hardly tell the difference
in the
> cleaning ability between the two. Acetone is a lot cheaper and easier on
the
> health.
> I would put at least two gallons in one tank and slosh for about 20-30
> minutes (turning the tank every couple minutes). Then, use the same
solution to
> put in the other tank. Follow up with some clean Acetone for a second
slosh.
> I would fill the tanks with water and pressure test (using MOUTH
pressure
> only). IMHO, If they don't leak, I would not reseal.
> Don Smythe
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> ---
>
>
---
Message 20
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Subject: | WEIGHT AND BALANCE |
Rule breakdown below
pts rule name description
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: <kirkhull@sbcglobal.net>
I have a kitfox clasic IV with a suberu engine. I would like to move the battery
back to compensate for the increased weight of the engine before covering.
I was wondering if anybody else has this combo and how far back they moved the
battery.
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