Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:52 AM - Re: leaking quickdrain (Fox5flyer)
2. 04:10 AM - Re: Fuel tank coating (Grant Fluent)
3. 05:03 AM - Re: Maule was Re: (Glenn Horne)
4. 05:12 AM - Re: Maule was Re: (Jim Burke)
5. 08:07 AM - Re: ASI (jeff.hays@aselia.com)
6. 08:42 AM - Quad Gauge Update (Steve Magdic)
7. 09:11 AM - Re: Fuel tank coating (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
8. 09:19 AM - Re: leaking quickdrain (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
9. 09:25 AM - Re: Aluminum Tank Leak (Jose M. Toro)
10. 09:52 AM - Re: Quad Gauge Update (Fox5flyer)
11. 06:19 PM - Re: leaking quickdrain (Fred Shiple)
12. 07:09 PM - Grumbling 912UL (Kirk Martenson)
13. 07:36 PM - Re: Grumbling 912UL (Rick)
14. 08:59 PM - Re: ASI (kurt schrader)
15. 09:37 PM - Re: Grumbling 912UL (kurt schrader)
16. 10:03 PM - Re: Maule was Re: (jimshumaker)
17. 10:08 PM - Re: Maule was Re: (jimshumaker)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: leaking quickdrain |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
> Had to remove the quick drains on both tanks. Repaired with the RectorSeal
I used initially (had worked well for 6 months). One tank sealed well and
one didn't. Replaced with a Loctite sealant recommended by the on field A+P
and leaked again. I cleaned the threads with MEK prior to resealing both
times. Any advice from the list?
> Thanks.
> Fred
> Series 6/912S
I had the same problem Fred and so have many others. My advice is to lose
the fuel tank quick drains. The tanks don't have sumps anyway and the quick
drains really aren't serving any purpose other than a place to leak. I
ended up using brass allen (hex) head plugs with Tight Seal (if I remember
correctly). The trick is to get the threads completely clean using a
solvent (MEK or other), thoroughly dry (NO heat gun!), then using a tiny
stick coat the threads so the sealer is well soaked into the pourous
fiberglass, which is the reason for the leaking. When you're sure the
threads are well soaked, lube your fitting and plug the hole, but not too
tight. The quick drain on the belly of the airplane will take care of
things just fine. If that doesn't work you may have to come up with some
sort of o-ring fitting to seal it.
Darrel
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Fuel tank coating |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Grant Fluent <gjfpilot@yahoo.com>
Guy,
If you decide to remove the Kreem from your tanks,
you may be able to slosh the tank without opening up
the wing. I think some people have done this. If
takes another person to hold the other end of the
wing. You could wrap the wing with 4 mil plastic to
protect it from any MEK/acetone that you're using.
Just my two cents worth.
Grant Fluent
Newcastle, NE
Classic IV w/912S
--- Guy Buchanan <bnn@nethere.com> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Guy Buchanan
> <bnn@nethere.com>
>
> At 01:25 PM 7/11/2004 -0400, you wrote:
>
> >It's very easy to get "wrapped around the axle" on
> this stuff. If I were
> >you and can see spiderweb signs of cracking in the
> tanks I'd go ahead and do
> >it now and be done with it. A few hours work then
> one less thing to be
> >concerned with later when you'd rather be flying.
>
> Thanks Darrell.
>
> Guy
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kitfox-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Glenn Horne" <glennflys@rcn.com>
Jim,
I was just looking at that wheel, but couldn't
tell if it puma tic or a softer rubber. On my
Model II I have a solid (hard) rubber tail wheel.
Would like to change mine. How do you like yours?
Glenn Horne-Suffolk, Va
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of jimshumaker
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Maule was RE:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimshumaker" <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
Aircraft Spruce 2003-2004 Page 217 P/N 06-03600.
I changed bearings to fit the axle by puchasing from a local bearing house.
But then had to add oversize washers as safety stops. Could have done it
just as well by using a piece of steel tubing to shim the space between
bearing and axle.
Jim Shumaker
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Burke" <jeburke94je@direcway.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Maule was RE:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Burke <jeburke94je@direcway.com>
>
> Jim, I would like to do the same. Can you give me some numbers for the
wheel
> and barring needed?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> James E. Burke
> (N94JE)
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Date: 07/11/04 01:54:08
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Maule was RE:
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimshumaker"
<jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Michel
>
> I changed my Maule hard wheel to an Aircraft Spruce sport builders wheel.
> Cost just $25 for the wheel and a few more dollars for the bearing and
> oversize washers. Very cheap and a much softer ride. It takes out that
> annoying pavement vibration. Works well off field also.
>
> Jim Shumaker
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michel Verheughe" <michel@online.no>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Maule was RE:
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> >
> > Lmar wrote:
> > > I found a great site for the Maule
> > >
> > > http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/Maule_Tailwheel.pdf
> >
> > Thanks Larry. This is a definitive "must keep." Incidentally, I am
> considering
> > changing my hard wheel for a pneumatic one. I fly mostly from asphalt
and
> the
> > hard wheel is ... a bit hard. Checking Aircraft Spruce, I see that these
> wheels
> > are not that expensive. Maybe a good Christmas gift, who knows! :-)
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Michel
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> >
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Maule was RE: |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Burke <jeburke94je@direcway.com>
Thanks, Aircraft Spruce will have the wheel on the way this afternoon. We
have a bearing distributor in Indianapolis (Bearing's Inc.) I think they
will able to match the bearing I need (inside and outside dimensions) so I
can get by without the oversized washers.
)
James E. Burke
(N94JE)
-------Original Message-------
From: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Maule was RE:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimshumaker" <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
Aircraft Spruce 2003-2004 Page 217 P/N 06-03600.
I changed bearings to fit the axle by puchasing from a local bearing house.
But then had to add oversize washers as safety stops. Could have done it
just as well by using a piece of steel tubing to shim the space between
bearing and axle.
Jim Shumaker
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Burke" <jeburke94je@direcway.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Maule was RE:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Burke <jeburke94je@direcway.com>
>
> Jim, I would like to do the same. Can you give me some numbers for the
wheel
> and barring needed?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> James E. Burke
> (N94JE)
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Date: 07/11/04 01:54:08
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Maule was RE:
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimshumaker"
<jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Michel
>
> I changed my Maule hard wheel to an Aircraft Spruce sport builders wheel.
> Cost just $25 for the wheel and a few more dollars for the bearing and
> oversize washers. Very cheap and a much softer ride. It takes out that
> annoying pavement vibration. Works well off field also.
>
> Jim Shumaker
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michel Verheughe" <michel@online.no>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Maule was RE:
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> >
> > Lmar wrote:
> > > I found a great site for the Maule
> > >
> > > http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/Maule_Tailwheel.pdf
> >
> > Thanks Larry. This is a definitive "must keep." Incidentally, I am
> considering
> > changing my hard wheel for a pneumatic one. I fly mostly from asphalt
and
> the
> > hard wheel is ... a bit hard. Checking Aircraft Spruce, I see that these
> wheels
> > are not that expensive. Maybe a good Christmas gift, who knows! :-)
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Michel
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> >
>
>
Message 5
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jeff.hays@aselia.com" <jeff.hays@aselia.com>
Check for water in the lines.
Original Message:
-----------------
From: jareds jareds@verizon.net
Subject: Kitfox-List: ASI
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
During takeoff the ASI is slow to come alive. The days been hot and
humid but it should still relate remotely close to speed. Unfortunately
it seems like it lags 20MPH behind until finally stabilizing at pattern
alt. Just fixed all the leaks to where applying a constant pressure then
sealing pito will hold that indicated speed indefinate.
Help me with what i'm missing????
Jared
Don Pearsall wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall@comcast.net>
>
>Chicken! Saturday is the busiest day. Did you fly in, John?
>Don
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jdmcbean
>To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Arlington NW EAA Fly-in Photos Posted.
>
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean@cableone.net>
>
>Sorry I missed ya... Left first thing Saturday morning.
>
>Blue Skies
>John & Debra McBean
>"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Quad Gauge Update |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Magdic" <steve.magdic@1psg.com>
FYI:
I was able to fix my Quad Gauge problem by following the
manufacturers suggested wiring diagram.
The ground wires from the gauge, the oil temp and the oil pressure
were all run to separate studs. Westach warned that the error could
be magnified with increased power input if these grounds were not
run to the SAME ground lug.
I now see all needles in the center of the green arc after rewiring
the grounds.
Thanks to those who shared their input.
Steve Magdic
N490PA
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Fuel tank coating |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
Don,
Actually, when I look into the tanks they look fine. However I can
only see a little of the tank, even with dental mirrors. The tanks date
from '94 and were supposedly done "after" the Kreem problem was addressed,
but it sounds like the original application was marginal at best. It seems
that to fly with any chance of coating separation is to risk some
off-airport excitement. I am imagining large sheets of this stuff coming
off and clogging virtually any tube. Am I wrong? Can it be filtered safely?
Guy
Since you don't show any signs of damage, I guess you do face the dilemma
of "DO" or "DON'T" remove the Kreeme. There is an old saying "Don't fix what
ain't broke.
The Kreeme problem was alive and well in late 95 (my tanks). You might
be OK to leave as is and watch closely.
As mentioned, you have two tanks and both won't clog up at the same time.
One of the first Alaska trip airplanes had the problem in route. The stuff
came off in sheets and plugged up the outlet port of the wing tank. So,
filtering would not have prevented the problem.
I "THINK" what I would do (based on the history of Kreeme) is (as
mentioned) wrap up the wing real good, plug all the exit holes and slosh them clean.
You can put on a short section of poly tubing on the tank outlet port with a
small valve on the end. Use the valve to frequently vent the tank while
shoshing. Go to an auto store and purchase a non- vented gas cap to temporarily
replace you wing tank filler (make sure it seals good. However, this step
might not be necessary except to save the paint on the existing cap.
The only thing I would do different than some have suggested is, I'd use
Acetone vice MEK and I would use at least 2 maybe 3 gallons for each slosh.
Use the first batch to put into the second tank and then follow up with some
clean.
As a safety check, I'd install clear Purolator fuel filters on each wing
tank. They give you an excellent view of the fuel at each preflight. My
tanks were exceptionally clean and free of all Kreeme and fiberglass fragments
when installed. I still managed to see a lot of debris gather in the Purolators
for several tanks of fuel.
Fiberglass fragments were mentioned in one post. There was a Fox that
had engine problems a few years back. He traced the problem to a clear
Purolator filter that was clogged with fiberglass fragments from the wing tanks.
Seems the fiberglass was transparent and could be detected with the eye. Just
mentioned this as a side line thought
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: leaking quickdrain |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 7/12/04 3:53:25 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
morid@northland.lib.mi.us writes:
> I had the same problem Fred and so have many others. My advice is to lose
> the fuel tank quick drains. The tanks don't have sumps anyway and the quick
> drains really aren't serving any purpose other
I agree with Darrell, scrap the drains.....
As far as the threads go, I had one of mine get basically loose. It seems
that fiberglass threads will wear before metal fittings...
At one point, I used West Epoxy system and coated the female threads of
the tank. Then install a nylon pipe plug (less than snug) lightly coated with
liquid soap. Every now and then (while the Epoxy sets) rotate the plug
in/out 1/10 turn. This formed new threads to what was worn and fuzzy.
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 9
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|
Subject: | Re: Aluminum Tank Leak |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro@yahoo.com>
My KF II has a six gallon aluminum wing tank which is leaking. Could I fix the
leak without removing the fabric?
AlbertaIV@aol.com wrote:--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
Don,
Actually, when I look into the tanks they look fine. However I can
only see a little of the tank, even with dental mirrors. The tanks date
from '94 and were supposedly done "after" the Kreem problem was addressed,
but it sounds like the original application was marginal at best. It seems
that to fly with any chance of coating separation is to risk some
off-airport excitement. I am imagining large sheets of this stuff coming
off and clogging virtually any tube. Am I wrong? Can it be filtered safely?
Guy
Since you don't show any signs of damage, I guess you do face the dilemma
of "DO" or "DON'T" remove the Kreeme. There is an old saying "Don't fix what
ain't broke.
The Kreeme problem was alive and well in late 95 (my tanks). You might
be OK to leave as is and watch closely.
As mentioned, you have two tanks and both won't clog up at the same time.
One of the first Alaska trip airplanes had the problem in route. The stuff
came off in sheets and plugged up the outlet port of the wing tank. So,
filtering would not have prevented the problem.
I "THINK" what I would do (based on the history of Kreeme) is (as
mentioned) wrap up the wing real good, plug all the exit holes and slosh them clean.
You can put on a short section of poly tubing on the tank outlet port with a
small valve on the end. Use the valve to frequently vent the tank while
shoshing. Go to an auto store and purchase a non- vented gas cap to temporarily
replace you wing tank filler (make sure it seals good. However, this step
might not be necessary except to save the paint on the existing cap.
The only thing I would do different than some have suggested is, I'd use
Acetone vice MEK and I would use at least 2 maybe 3 gallons for each slosh.
Use the first batch to put into the second tank and then follow up with some
clean.
As a safety check, I'd install clear Purolator fuel filters on each wing
tank. They give you an excellent view of the fuel at each preflight. My
tanks were exceptionally clean and free of all Kreeme and fiberglass fragments
when installed. I still managed to see a lot of debris gather in the Purolators
for several tanks of fuel.
Fiberglass fragments were mentioned in one post. There was a Fox that
had engine problems a few years back. He traced the problem to a clear
Purolator filter that was clogged with fiberglass fragments from the wing tanks.
Seems the fiberglass was transparent and could be detected with the eye. Just
mentioned this as a side line thought
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Jos M. Toro, P.E.
Computer Systems Validation Engineer
Eli-Lilly PR05
---------------------------------
Message 10
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|
Subject: | Re: Quad Gauge Update |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Steve, to add just a bit to this, I'd recommend that ALL ground leads on the
airplane (if possible) go to the same lug.
Darrel
> FYI:
> I was able to fix my Quad Gauge problem by following the
> manufacturers suggested wiring diagram.
> The ground wires from the gauge, the oil temp and the oil pressure
> were all run to separate studs. Westach warned that the error could
> be magnified with increased power input if these grounds were not
> run to the SAME ground lug.
> I now see all needles in the center of the green arc after rewiring
> the grounds.
>
> Thanks to those who shared their input.
> Steve Magdic
> N490PA
Message 11
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|
Subject: | leaking quickdrain |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Fred Shiple <fredshiple@sbcglobal.net>
Don and Darrell thanks for the input, makes a lot of sense. However Steve wins
the main prize. Did a pressure/leak check (used 2 inches of water) and the sight
gauge bubbled up a storm (quickdrain's leak free). So I ordered parts from
Aircraft Spruce as advised by Bill Hammond and Roger Augenstein several years.
Should have the gauges replaces by Thursday evening and them back in the air.
This list is a wonderful resource. Thanks guys.
Fred
do not archive
Message 12
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kirk Martenson" <kirk@mninter.net>
Hello :
I have another problem with my Rotax 912 UL. There seems to be this "grumbling"
sound when I go to full throttle for take off. It started out as a small grumble
about four flights ago. I thought maybe I was imagining it, but today I
did two touch and goes, and on the second climbout, the grumbling was quite loud.
So, now I know it is not in my head.
Has anyone had these symptoms on their 912UL?
Any help is appreciated. I have not had time to look at it yet and I do have some
ideas, but maybe someone out there knows exactly what to do.
Thanks,
Kirk Martenson
Classic IV
Message 13
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
I am way off on experience with the 912s but I believe I remember someone
mentioning some time ago about the rubber dampeners in the redrive. The
become worn or hard or both. Maybe someone else will verify.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kirk
Martenson
Subject: Kitfox-List: Grumbling 912UL
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kirk Martenson" <kirk@mninter.net>
Hello :
I have another problem with my Rotax 912 UL. There seems to be this
"grumbling" sound when I go to full throttle for take off. It started out
as a small grumble about four flights ago. I thought maybe I was imagining
it, but today I did two touch and goes, and on the second climbout, the
grumbling was quite loud. So, now I know it is not in my head.
Has anyone had these symptoms on their 912UL?
Any help is appreciated. I have not had time to look at it yet and I do
have some ideas, but maybe someone out there knows exactly what to do.
Thanks,
Kirk Martenson
Classic IV
Message 14
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hi Jared,
I think you got some good answers - plugged line with
water or bugs. You might try disconnecting the static
side from the ASI and flying the pattern to see how it
responds. If it is still lagging, the pitot side is
plugged. If it comes up to speed normally, the static
side is plugged. Be careful slowing down! You might
get too slow before it registers approaching stall
speed.
If you have the altimeter and VSI hooked up to the
same static source, a plugged static source should
affect those too. If they are normal, I would suspect
the pitot side first.
I like whoever came up with the idea of shooting a
little bug killer into the pitot tube at each annual.
Seems like a good idea. I wish Rain-X worked there
too!
Kurt S.
--- jareds <jareds@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> During takeoff the ASI is slow to come alive. The
> days been hot and
> humid but it should still relate remotely close to
> speed. Unfortunately
> it seems like it lags 20MPH behind until finally
> stabilizing at pattern
> alt. Just fixed all the leaks to where applying a
> constant pressure then
> sealing pito will hold that indicated speed
> indefinate.
> Help me with what i'm missing????
>
> Jared
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Grumbling 912UL |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hi Kirk,
I am also not a 912 expert, but have a few comments.
It is hard to tell what you have without actually
hearing the grumble and seeing when it shows up. RPM,
power settings, does it quit if you yaw left or right?
Only on climb, but not at full power level?
Some thoughts:
First check for loose intake or exhaust parts since it
is getting louder quickly. It is nice of engines to
tell us something is going bad before it hhappens.
Then check for something contacting the cowling when
at high power. Maybe the exhaust? Worn engine mounts
might allow new contacts to form where everything was
good before. It would be nice to fix this by filing
on the cowl a little, or with new mounts.
Next, and the most expensive place for grumble sounds,
is in the gearing. Someone already mentioned this and
it may be true. Gears grumble and so do gear
bearings. I don't know the 912, but there should be a
way to check for gear and bearing lash/play. Do you
have a GB temp gauge?
Just some ideas. Hopefully something simple will be
doing it.
Kurt S.
--- Kirk Martenson <kirk@mninter.net> wrote:
>
> Hello :
>
> I have another problem with my Rotax 912 UL. There
> seems to be this "grumbling" sound when I go to full
> throttle for take off. It started out as a small
> grumble about four flights ago. I thought maybe I
> was imagining it, but today I did two touch and
> goes, and on the second climbout, the grumbling was
> quite loud. So, now I know it is not in my head.
>
> Has anyone had these symptoms on their 912UL?
>
> Any help is appreciated. I have not had time to
> look at it yet and I do have some ideas, but maybe
> someone out there knows exactly what to do.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Kirk Martenson
> Classic IV
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Maule was RE: |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimshumaker" <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
James
The oversize washers are to prevent the wheel from coming off the axle in
the event of a bearing failure. Just like the oversize wahers on the
control linkage rod ends.
Jim Shumaker
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Burke" <jeburke94je@direcway.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Maule was RE:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Burke <jeburke94je@direcway.com>
>
> Thanks, Aircraft Spruce will have the wheel on the way this afternoon. We
> have a bearing distributor in Indianapolis (Bearing's Inc.) I think they
> will able to match the bearing I need (inside and outside dimensions) so I
> can get by without the oversized washers.
>
>
> )
> James E. Burke
> (N94JE)
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Date: 07/12/04 00:10:12
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Maule was RE:
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimshumaker"
<jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Aircraft Spruce 2003-2004 Page 217 P/N 06-03600.
>
> I changed bearings to fit the axle by puchasing from a local bearing
house.
> But then had to add oversize washers as safety stops. Could have done it
> just as well by using a piece of steel tubing to shim the space between
> bearing and axle.
>
> Jim Shumaker
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Burke" <jeburke94je@direcway.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Maule was RE:
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Burke <jeburke94je@direcway.com>
> >
> > Jim, I would like to do the same. Can you give me some numbers for the
> wheel
> > and barring needed?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> >
> > James E. Burke
> > (N94JE)
> > -------Original Message-------
> >
> > From: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> > Date: 07/11/04 01:54:08
> > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Maule was RE:
> >
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimshumaker"
> <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
> >
> > Michel
> >
> > I changed my Maule hard wheel to an Aircraft Spruce sport builders
wheel.
> > Cost just $25 for the wheel and a few more dollars for the bearing and
> > oversize washers. Very cheap and a much softer ride. It takes out
that
> > annoying pavement vibration. Works well off field also.
> >
> > Jim Shumaker
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Michel Verheughe" <michel@online.no>
> > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Maule was RE:
> >
> >
> > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> > >
> > > Lmar wrote:
> > > > I found a great site for the Maule
> > > >
> > > > http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/Maule_Tailwheel.pdf
> > >
> > > Thanks Larry. This is a definitive "must keep." Incidentally, I am
> > considering
> > > changing my hard wheel for a pneumatic one. I fly mostly from asphalt
> and
> > the
> > > hard wheel is ... a bit hard. Checking Aircraft Spruce, I see that
these
> > wheels
> > > are not that expensive. Maybe a good Christmas gift, who knows! :-)
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > > Michel
> > >
> > > do not archive
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 17
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|
Subject: | Re: Maule was RE: |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimshumaker" <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
Glenn
The homebuilders wheel in Aircraft spruce is soft rubber. It took out all
that taxi vibration on asphalt. I am very happy with it as it does what I
wanted it to and it is smaller and lighter and works well off field and
never have to worry about patching it.
Jim Shumaker
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Horne" <glennflys@rcn.com>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Maule was RE:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Glenn Horne" <glennflys@rcn.com>
>
> Jim,
> I was just looking at that wheel, but couldn't
> tell if it puma tic or a softer rubber. On my
> Model II I have a solid (hard) rubber tail wheel.
> Would like to change mine. How do you like yours?
> Glenn Horne-Suffolk, Va
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of jimshumaker
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Maule was RE:
>
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimshumaker"
<jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Aircraft Spruce 2003-2004 Page 217 P/N 06-03600.
>
> I changed bearings to fit the axle by puchasing from a local bearing
house.
> But then had to add oversize washers as safety stops. Could have done it
> just as well by using a piece of steel tubing to shim the space between
> bearing and axle.
>
> Jim Shumaker
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Burke" <jeburke94je@direcway.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Maule was RE:
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Burke <jeburke94je@direcway.com>
> >
> > Jim, I would like to do the same. Can you give me some numbers for the
> wheel
> > and barring needed?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> >
> > James E. Burke
> > (N94JE)
> > -------Original Message-------
> >
> > From: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> > Date: 07/11/04 01:54:08
> > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Maule was RE:
> >
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimshumaker"
> <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
> >
> > Michel
> >
> > I changed my Maule hard wheel to an Aircraft Spruce sport builders
wheel.
> > Cost just $25 for the wheel and a few more dollars for the bearing and
> > oversize washers. Very cheap and a much softer ride. It takes out
that
> > annoying pavement vibration. Works well off field also.
> >
> > Jim Shumaker
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Michel Verheughe" <michel@online.no>
> > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Maule was RE:
> >
> >
> > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
> > >
> > > Lmar wrote:
> > > > I found a great site for the Maule
> > > >
> > > > http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/Maule_Tailwheel.pdf
> > >
> > > Thanks Larry. This is a definitive "must keep." Incidentally, I am
> > considering
> > > changing my hard wheel for a pneumatic one. I fly mostly from asphalt
> and
> > the
> > > hard wheel is ... a bit hard. Checking Aircraft Spruce, I see that
these
> > wheels
> > > are not that expensive. Maybe a good Christmas gift, who knows! :-)
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > > Michel
> > >
> > > do not archive
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
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