Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:44 AM - Re: ammeter installation (kurt schrader)
2. 11:35 AM - Re: ammeter installation (kurt schrader)
3. 03:14 PM - VAL comm display (N53dw@aol.com)
4. 04:15 PM - Re: VAL comm display (Fox5flyer)
5. 04:46 PM - Flap Gap Covers (jareds)
6. 06:57 PM - VAL comm display contact? (Forfun3@aol.com)
7. 07:42 PM - Re: VAL comm display contact? (Fox5flyer)
8. 07:49 PM - Tire & Wheel size and Subaru performance (Clem Nichols)
Message 1
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Subject: | ammeter installation |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Rick,
Sounds like a good option. I am interested too. Do
you have any additional info, or a web page or 2 for
for reference?
Kurt S.
--- Rick <turboflyer@comcast.net> wrote:
> If you are gonig to put something in that hole I
> would suggest a volt/amp meter with a built in over
> voltage and discharge warning light. I think mine
> was a JPI or E.I. Instruction come with.
>
> Rick
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Message 2
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Subject: | Re: ammeter installation |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Marco,
That does sound confusing. My Actron amp meter book
gives 8 possible wiring diagrams, so it can get even
more confused. Anyway, I'll take a shot at the basic
problem.
Basically, the starter should have a dedicated direct
wire from the battery. It sucks the biggest load.
This doesn't have to go thru the amp gauge, so you
don't need to hook it up to the amp gauge at all. If
you do, it will probably just peg the gauge when you
start anyway.
But if you mean the starter solenoid seperately, which
you control with the start switch, that can just hook
up to the amp (+) side directly, with the start switch
wired in between the gauge and the solenoid.
The amp gauge should be between the battery and the
alternator power output (B+) after the
voltage/rectifier. Don't bypass it. All loads except
the starter should be on the same side of the amp
gauge as the alternator output, or B+.
Don't get this B+ confused with the alternator input
line, which is probably smaller wire too. I don't
know your specific installation though. Since it is
low amperage, both wires could be small. I am sorry,
but I don't know your wire color coding either.
So the (-) amp terminal should hook up to the battery
(+). The starter should hook up to the battery (+)
terminal too.
The amp (+) terminal should hook up to the voltage
rectifier (alternator) B+. Your starter solenoid and
all your other loads should hook up to the amp (+)
including the alternator power input wire.
That amp needle simply points to where the power is
coming from and shows how much. It points to the
battery (-) until the alternator is putting out enough
power to recharge the battery. Then it points to the
alternator side (+) to show current recharging the
battery. With this setup, you don't see how much load
you are putting on the system, once the alternator is
charging. It just shows how much is going into or out
of the battery. With the alternator not charging, it
will show the total of all loads you have turned on,
except the starter.
More confused? Try:
Battery Rectifier output B+
>(-)amp gauge(+)< Starter solinoid
Starter Alternator field
All radios/lights/etc
Hope this prints OK. Maybe that will help. Call me
if you want to discuss it. (502)458-9646
You'll have to ask someone who has your engine about
your wire color codes though.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I'd like to install a VDO ammeter on my panel but am
> somewhat confused about wiring (Rotax 582 UL).
> Instrument wiring diagram show one positive lead to
> + on alternator, other to + on starter solenoid.
> Questions: 1) for the "alternator" + lead. do I
> bypass the rectifier go directly to engine?
> Presubambly this would be to one of 2 "lighting
> coil" wires (yellow or yellow/black). Which one? 2)
> for the starter solenoid + lead, do I bypass the
> rectifier and wire directly to the solenoid?
>
> Thanks in advance for assistance.
>
> Marco Menezes
> N99KX
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Message 3
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Subject: | VAL comm display |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: N53dw@aol.com
Anyone ever replace segments in the display on a VAL comm radio? I have a
couple a "light bulb" burned out on two of the digits.
Danny Williamson
Pride, LA
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: VAL comm display |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Have you talked to Valcom? The owner is pretty easy to deal with. I had
the same problem on my first one and he fixed me right up with no charge
except shipping. The second is on it's 5th year with no problems.
Darrel
> Anyone ever replace segments in the display on a VAL comm radio? I have a
> couple a "light bulb" burned out on two of the digits.
>
> Danny Williamson
> Pride, LA
Message 5
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
Even with some drain holes in the flaperons i still have a collection
of water after rain.
Has anyone covered the gaps of the flaperon hinges with anything?
N53dw@aol.com wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: N53dw@aol.com
>
>Anyone ever replace segments in the display on a VAL comm radio? I have a
>couple a "light bulb" burned out on two of the digits.
>
>Danny Williamson
>Pride, LA
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | VAL comm display contact? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Forfun3@aol.com
How do you contact val radio?
Mine is doing the same thing.
Ralph
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: VAL comm display contact? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
I'll have to look in my manuals, but if you have your's it there phone
number should be there. I don't know of a web site.
Darrel
----- Original Message -----
From: <Forfun3@aol.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: VAL comm display contact?
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Forfun3@aol.com
>
> How do you contact val radio?
>
> Mine is doing the same thing.
>
> Ralph
>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Tire & Wheel size and Subaru performance |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
Can anyone please tell me what size wheel and tire were provided with the Model
IV kits. My plane is presently equipped with tundra tires (22x 8.0-8), which
I obviously don't need for flying off a blacktop runway, and which obviously
provide an excessive amount of drag. Also, I'd be interested in knowing at what
engine rpm those of you using an NSI Subaru EA81 non turbo engine cruise, and
also what is your maximum engine rpm at full throttle. My setup is equipped
with an Ellison TBI and a 3-blade Warp Drive Prop (recently shortened from 70"
to 68 1/2" in diameter because of my less-than-perfect flying skills). I can
get off the ground very quickly, and my VSI shows close to 1000fpm on climbout
at 70 mph, so I don't think I'm over-pitched, but at full throttle straight-and-level,
my tachometer is only showing 5000 rpm. At 4200 rpm, my cruise speed
is only about 80 mph IAS. My plane is heavy at 820 pounds empty, but it
has fairings on the lift struts, and the only really obvious drag-generator I
can see are the tundra tires. At present, I have about 13 1/2 degrees pitch in
the prop. Obviously, increasing this would help my cruise speed (at the expense
of take-off distance and climb rate), but would also tend to lower the engine
rpm at full throttle. When I pull the throttle all the way back, the engine
idles at about 1200 rpm, and I gather from earlier posts that this is not
good on the PSRU. It's my understanding that the maximum allowable speed on the
Subaru is 5600 rpm, and on the NSI conversion, at least, is rev limited.
They say the maximum continuous speed is 5500 rpm. Being mechanically challenged,
I'm a little reluctant to start changing a lot of things around. (Did I
mention that I bought the plane already built?) The engine runs very smoothly
at 5000 rpm, and I can't help but think that a simple adjustment of the throttle
linkage on the Ellison unit might take care of at least a part of my problem,
but I wanted to run it past the group, and ask for comments. Thanks for your
help.
Clem Nichols
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