Kitfox-List Digest Archive

Sun 08/08/04


Total Messages Posted: 8



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 10:44 AM - Re: ammeter installation (kurt schrader)
     2. 11:35 AM - Re: ammeter installation (kurt schrader)
     3. 03:14 PM - VAL comm display (N53dw@aol.com)
     4. 04:15 PM - Re: VAL comm display (Fox5flyer)
     5. 04:46 PM - Flap Gap Covers (jareds)
     6. 06:57 PM - VAL comm display contact? (Forfun3@aol.com)
     7. 07:42 PM - Re: VAL comm display contact? (Fox5flyer)
     8. 07:49 PM - Tire & Wheel size and Subaru performance (Clem Nichols)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 10:44:46 AM PST US
    From: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
    Subject: ammeter installation
    --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com> Rick, Sounds like a good option. I am interested too. Do you have any additional info, or a web page or 2 for for reference? Kurt S. --- Rick <turboflyer@comcast.net> wrote: > If you are gonig to put something in that hole I > would suggest a volt/amp meter with a built in over > voltage and discharge warning light. I think mine > was a JPI or E.I. Instruction come with. > > Rick __________________________________ http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail


    Message 2


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    Time: 11:35:23 AM PST US
    From: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: ammeter installation
    --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com> Marco, That does sound confusing. My Actron amp meter book gives 8 possible wiring diagrams, so it can get even more confused. Anyway, I'll take a shot at the basic problem. Basically, the starter should have a dedicated direct wire from the battery. It sucks the biggest load. This doesn't have to go thru the amp gauge, so you don't need to hook it up to the amp gauge at all. If you do, it will probably just peg the gauge when you start anyway. But if you mean the starter solenoid seperately, which you control with the start switch, that can just hook up to the amp (+) side directly, with the start switch wired in between the gauge and the solenoid. The amp gauge should be between the battery and the alternator power output (B+) after the voltage/rectifier. Don't bypass it. All loads except the starter should be on the same side of the amp gauge as the alternator output, or B+. Don't get this B+ confused with the alternator input line, which is probably smaller wire too. I don't know your specific installation though. Since it is low amperage, both wires could be small. I am sorry, but I don't know your wire color coding either. So the (-) amp terminal should hook up to the battery (+). The starter should hook up to the battery (+) terminal too. The amp (+) terminal should hook up to the voltage rectifier (alternator) B+. Your starter solenoid and all your other loads should hook up to the amp (+) including the alternator power input wire. That amp needle simply points to where the power is coming from and shows how much. It points to the battery (-) until the alternator is putting out enough power to recharge the battery. Then it points to the alternator side (+) to show current recharging the battery. With this setup, you don't see how much load you are putting on the system, once the alternator is charging. It just shows how much is going into or out of the battery. With the alternator not charging, it will show the total of all loads you have turned on, except the starter. More confused? Try: Battery Rectifier output B+ >(-)amp gauge(+)< Starter solinoid Starter Alternator field All radios/lights/etc Hope this prints OK. Maybe that will help. Call me if you want to discuss it. (502)458-9646 You'll have to ask someone who has your engine about your wire color codes though. Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo --- Marco Menezes <msm_9949@yahoo.com> wrote: > I'd like to install a VDO ammeter on my panel but am > somewhat confused about wiring (Rotax 582 UL). > Instrument wiring diagram show one positive lead to > + on alternator, other to + on starter solenoid. > Questions: 1) for the "alternator" + lead. do I > bypass the rectifier go directly to engine? > Presubambly this would be to one of 2 "lighting > coil" wires (yellow or yellow/black). Which one? 2) > for the starter solenoid + lead, do I bypass the > rectifier and wire directly to the solenoid? > > Thanks in advance for assistance. > > Marco Menezes > N99KX __________________________________ http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail


    Message 3


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    Time: 03:14:35 PM PST US
    From: N53dw@aol.com
    Subject: VAL comm display
    --> Kitfox-List message posted by: N53dw@aol.com Anyone ever replace segments in the display on a VAL comm radio? I have a couple a "light bulb" burned out on two of the digits. Danny Williamson Pride, LA


    Message 4


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    Time: 04:15:37 PM PST US
    From: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
    Subject: Re: VAL comm display
    --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us> Have you talked to Valcom? The owner is pretty easy to deal with. I had the same problem on my first one and he fixed me right up with no charge except shipping. The second is on it's 5th year with no problems. Darrel > Anyone ever replace segments in the display on a VAL comm radio? I have a > couple a "light bulb" burned out on two of the digits. > > Danny Williamson > Pride, LA


    Message 5


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    Time: 04:46:21 PM PST US
    From: jareds <jareds@verizon.net>
    Subject: Flap Gap Covers
    --> Kitfox-List message posted by: jareds <jareds@verizon.net> Even with some drain holes in the flaperons i still have a collection of water after rain. Has anyone covered the gaps of the flaperon hinges with anything? N53dw@aol.com wrote: >--> Kitfox-List message posted by: N53dw@aol.com > >Anyone ever replace segments in the display on a VAL comm radio? I have a >couple a "light bulb" burned out on two of the digits. > >Danny Williamson >Pride, LA > > > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 06:57:12 PM PST US
    From: Forfun3@aol.com
    Subject: VAL comm display contact?
    --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Forfun3@aol.com How do you contact val radio? Mine is doing the same thing. Ralph


    Message 7


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    Time: 07:42:51 PM PST US
    From: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
    Subject: Re: VAL comm display contact?
    --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us> I'll have to look in my manuals, but if you have your's it there phone number should be there. I don't know of a web site. Darrel ----- Original Message ----- From: <Forfun3@aol.com> Subject: Kitfox-List: VAL comm display contact? > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Forfun3@aol.com > > How do you contact val radio? > > Mine is doing the same thing. > > Ralph > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 07:49:12 PM PST US
    From: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com>
    Subject: Tire & Wheel size and Subaru performance
    --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clem Nichols" <cnichols@scrtc.com> Can anyone please tell me what size wheel and tire were provided with the Model IV kits. My plane is presently equipped with tundra tires (22x 8.0-8), which I obviously don't need for flying off a blacktop runway, and which obviously provide an excessive amount of drag. Also, I'd be interested in knowing at what engine rpm those of you using an NSI Subaru EA81 non turbo engine cruise, and also what is your maximum engine rpm at full throttle. My setup is equipped with an Ellison TBI and a 3-blade Warp Drive Prop (recently shortened from 70" to 68 1/2" in diameter because of my less-than-perfect flying skills). I can get off the ground very quickly, and my VSI shows close to 1000fpm on climbout at 70 mph, so I don't think I'm over-pitched, but at full throttle straight-and-level, my tachometer is only showing 5000 rpm. At 4200 rpm, my cruise speed is only about 80 mph IAS. My plane is heavy at 820 pounds empty, but it has fairings on the lift struts, and the only really obvious drag-generator I can see are the tundra tires. At present, I have about 13 1/2 degrees pitch in the prop. Obviously, increasing this would help my cruise speed (at the expense of take-off distance and climb rate), but would also tend to lower the engine rpm at full throttle. When I pull the throttle all the way back, the engine idles at about 1200 rpm, and I gather from earlier posts that this is not good on the PSRU. It's my understanding that the maximum allowable speed on the Subaru is 5600 rpm, and on the NSI conversion, at least, is rev limited. They say the maximum continuous speed is 5500 rpm. Being mechanically challenged, I'm a little reluctant to start changing a lot of things around. (Did I mention that I bought the plane already built?) The engine runs very smoothly at 5000 rpm, and I can't help but think that a simple adjustment of the throttle linkage on the Ellison unit might take care of at least a part of my problem, but I wanted to run it past the group, and ask for comments. Thanks for your help. Clem Nichols




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