Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:30 AM - Update (Michel Verheughe)
2. 02:25 AM - Re: Sportpilot Insurance (broschart)
3. 03:55 AM - Bulging header tank (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
4. 04:50 AM - fuel drain (Mike Chaney)
5. 04:56 AM - Re: fuel drain (Mark Schindler)
6. 07:28 AM - Re: fuel drain (Paul)
7. 07:32 AM - Re: Bulging header tank (Fox5flyer)
8. 07:36 AM - fuel valve (Fox5flyer)
9. 07:40 AM - Re: Bulging header tank (Fox5flyer)
10. 07:42 AM - Re: fuel drain (Fox5flyer)
11. 07:51 AM - Re: fuel drain (Steve Cooper)
12. 07:57 AM - Re: fuel drain (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
13. 08:12 AM - Re: fuel drain (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
14. 08:40 AM - Re: fuel valve (Paul)
15. 09:59 AM - Re: fuel valve (kurt schrader)
16. 10:10 AM - Re: Bulging header tank (kurt schrader)
17. 10:16 AM - Re: Bulging header tank (flier)
18. 10:48 AM - Re: fuel drain (Fox5flyer)
19. 10:49 AM - Re: Bulging header tank (flier)
20. 11:21 AM - Re: fuel drain (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
21. 12:30 PM - Re: fuel drain (Glenn Horne)
22. 01:45 PM - Re: Preflight checklist (Randy Daughenbaugh)
23. 02:54 PM - [Off-topic] A very amateurish video (Michel Verheughe)
24. 05:21 PM - Prop choice for lycoming (Flybradair@cs.com)
25. 05:36 PM - Re: [Off-topic] A very amateurish video (Herbert R Gottelt)
26. 06:20 PM - Flaperon Balance (Rex & Jan Shaw)
27. 06:38 PM - Fly- in at liberty Mo. ()
28. 07:12 PM - EAA Chapter 612 FLY-IN at Roosterville MO. ()
29. 07:15 PM - Re: Flaperon Balance ()
30. 07:38 PM - Re: Flaperon Balance (jdmcbean)
31. 08:07 PM - Re: Prop choice for lycoming (Clifford Begnaud)
32. 08:20 PM - Re: Spark Plugs (Kirk Martenson)
33. 08:37 PM - Re: Flaperon Balance (Lowell Fitt)
34. 10:13 PM - Re: fuel drain (KITFOXPILOT@att.net)
35. 10:37 PM - ground adjustable prop on nsi (Eric Osmond)
Message 1
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Hello guys,
You may remember that I asked, a while ago, why, when I let the stick free, my
plane would slightly bank to the right. The conclusion was: probably assymetric
wash-out.
Since I didn't build my plane and I am still a prudent rookie, I did this: cut
a piece of thin aluminium, about 2" by 4", bent it at a slight angle and fixed
it on the trailing edge of my left flaperon.
Went up, one evening, in smooth air, came to level flight, took away my hand from
the stick and ... look, Mum, no hands! Wow, it works! Now I won't have to use
my teeth to open a bottle of soda! :-)
Today I feel a bit more confident in the mysterious aspects of aero-dynamism as
I see things can work ... and at the first try!
Forthermore, I had the visit of a German Vixen, Monday, and we flew together for
a while. My first time in Kitfox formation, great! But he was flying much faster
than my ol' model 3.
Cheers,
Michel
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Sportpilot Insurance |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: broschart <cfbflyer@localnet.com>
you need to dispose of all your ascents before flying
Have a good day - Charlie
Lowell Fitt wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
>
> Steve, I can't imagine anyone flying a airplane not having some assets.
> Frankly, I suspect that the homeowners insurance company will assemble their
> legal staff and go after the pilot or the pilot's heirs to minimize their
> loss. I have heard the no insurance argument a lot in my profession - not
> carrying dental malpractice insurance. If you are ever sued - a rather
> inexpensive initial process, you will need a lawyer to represent you - now
> getting costly, unless you intend to just ignore the suit in which case the
> marshal will just move you away from any and all assets you have accumulated
> in your life in order to have a giant flea market. To go without at least
> liability insurance is foolishness, especially in an airplane. Flying home
> made contraptions and damaging your neighbors property and possibly their
> persons is not going to set well with most of the non flying public and a
> lot of the flying public.
>
> Lowell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Sportpilot Insurance
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Only if he's a richie...and if that's the case, then I'm sure he was
> > paranoid and got all the insurance any one person can have...full up. And
> > that being the case...let the litigation begin...
> > Too bad for the wife...but isn't that the chance each and every one of us
> > takes when we go up. He took his chances and sadly, he lost. Ya, if he was
> a
> > rich'in, I'm certain that everyone involved is slather'in at the prospects
> > of a big piece of pie Lowell.
> > Now, on the other hand, If it was me...the lawyers would be standing
> around
> > muttering, "but...but...but." and the homeowner would be calling his
> > insurance agent. You know...the way it used to be in this country. ;)
> >
> > Steve
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
> > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Sportpilot Insurance
> >
> >
> > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
> > >
> > > Back from the wedding -
> > >
> > > The Rotorway exec that went down three weeks ago in Cameron Park did
> > > $400,000 damage on a house it landed on. Question, would that put a
> > > bullseye on the pilots back if he didn't have insurance? Or more
> > > accurately stated, would it put a bullseye on the widow's back if the
> > pilot
> > > had no insurance?
> > >
> > > Agreed- to each his own, but.....
> > >
> > > Lowell
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
> > > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Sportpilot Insurance
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper"
> > <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
> > > >
> > > > You don't need insurance to fly your Kitfox. (Don't put a bullseye on
> > your
> > > > back for the lawyers!)
> > > >
> > > > Steve
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Jimmie Blackwell" <jablackwell@ev1.net>
> > > > To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> > > > Subject: Kitfox-List: Sportpilot Insurance
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jimmie Blackwell"
> > > > <jablackwell@ev1.net>
> > > > >
> > > > > I am planning on flying my Kitfox under the Sportpilot ruling.
> > However,
> > > I
> > > > have not been able to get anyone to give me an insurance quote.
> Anyone
> > > else
> > > > looked into this and if so did you get any company to give you a
> quote?
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Bulging header tank |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
Just out of curiosity, you guys with bulging headers...Do you put rubber
tubing or anything over your tank vents while the plane is sitting???
This is now I checked my header for leaks during the building phase.
With full gas in the header and the vents sealed off, the tank will bulge due to
the gas trying to vent off.
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 4
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mike Chaney <mdps_mc@SWOCA.NET>
My fuel tank spring loaded drain valve continues to drip after I test the
tank for water, etc. I have to pull down on the fitting to stop the
dripping. This is the standard part issued by SkyStar in the kit. I assume
there is an O ring on the inside making the seal.
What is the best fix? Remove and replace the O ring or replace the whole
drain valve?
Mike Chaney
Model IV
Message 5
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mark Schindler <mtschindler@yahoo.com>
Just the O ring will do fine - did it on mine I think O ring is about $12!!
Mike Chaney <mdps_mc@swoca.net> wrote:--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mike Chaney
My fuel tank spring loaded drain valve continues to drip after I test the
tank for water, etc. I have to pull down on the fitting to stop the
dripping. This is the standard part issued by SkyStar in the kit. I assume
there is an O ring on the inside making the seal.
What is the best fix? Remove and replace the O ring or replace the whole
drain valve?
Mike Chaney
Model IV
---------------------------------
Message 6
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Paul <pwilson@climber.org>
Common problem due to incorrect material of the o-ring seal. I got the latest
o-ring at Osh from the manufacturer, and was told it will eliminate the problem.
No charge for the o-rings. He showed me how to change the o-ring. It is held
in place with a tiny snap ring. The guy said he had given 4 other Kitfoxers
new o-rings at the show and the show was only half over.
Paul
Somebody chime in as I seem to have forgotten the name of the company - sorry.
PW
==========
At 7:52 AM -0700 8/11/04, Mike Chaney wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mike Chaney <mdps_mc@SWOCA.NET>
>
>My fuel tank spring loaded drain valve continues to drip after I test the
>tank for water, etc. I have to pull down on the fitting to stop the
>dripping. This is the standard part issued by SkyStar in the kit. I assume
>there is an O ring on the inside making the seal.
>
>What is the best fix? Remove and replace the O ring or replace the whole
>drain valve?
>
>Mike Chaney
>Model IV
--
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Bulging header tank |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
I was fortunate to have found a replacement valve from Rick Weiss and all is
well now in that regard. However, it's the same type of valve and I'm not
sure how long it'll last and, as it's a brass taper fit with no o-rings, it
may not last any longer than the first one. Time will tell. Thanks for the
valve Rick! Currently I'm trying to locate some thick grease that's
impervious to fuel. An occasional lube job on the tapers is really all the
valve needs, however it has to be impervious to fuel. Any suggestions out
there?
As for the header tank, Kurt Schrader, who built an aluminum unit, sent me
his original (arrived yesterday Kurt, thanks!) and as soon as I have the
time I plan to install it. Then the plan is to use my old one as a template
and see if I can find someone to weld me up one using aluminum. Anybody
have any recommendations as to what thickness and type of alum I should use,
considering strength, weight, and weldability?
Darrel
> Hi Darrel,
>
> I just replaced my fuel valve with the Skystar retrofit kit. The valve
> looks a bit more robust than the original. The original froze up once
> and I took it apart and reworked it (it had some brass chips in it)
> and it recently became very hard to turn so I gave up and replaced it.
>
> The replacement valve is a bitch to install. I had to build a bracket
> to capture it from turning since it doesen't mount like the original.
>
> Since I had the seat out I checked my header tank (after reading your
> message) and found that my tank is bulged in the back also!
>
> The tank seems good and solid, so I plan to stay with it and keep an
> eye on at when I do my yearly inspection and maintenance.
>
> Allan Arthur
> N40AA Series 5 Taildragger (140 hours)
> 912 ULS, Warp Drive 3 blade prop
> Martinez, CA (Byron Airport, Hanger C8)
>
> ----------
> >From: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
> >To: "Kitfox List" <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Kitfox-List: Bulging header tank
> >Date: Wed, Aug 4, 2004, 8:10 AM
> >
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer"
<morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
> >
> > While replacing my fuel valve I had the seat assembly out of the
airplane
> > and I noticed that the plastic header tank is bulging out in the back
side.
> > This side is normally flat and where it butts up against the inverted V
> > support tubes it's bulging as much as 3/4". This is has me concerned
and
> > I'd like to replace the tank with a new one. Anybody else have this
> > problem? Anybody have good one to unload? Better yet, I recall that
> > someone was producing aluminum replacements. Any available?
> > Thanks,
> > Darrel
> > S5 Outback
>
>
Message 8
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Kurt, the next time you have that fuel valve out, take it apart and try
using some polishing compound on the tapers. I used some on my old valve
and it's much smoother, but I don't know how long it'll last. They need a
lube of some sort to stay smooth. Do you think that fuel lube will disolve
in gas?
Darrel
>I also just reworked my fuel valve. The thing was
getting so hard to turn I had to use both hands. I
used something called "Fuel Lube" on it and got it to
work free, at least for a while. Think I'll need a
new one soon too. And I only have 20 hrs on the
thing.>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Bulging header tank |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Good question, but in my case the answer is no. I don't close off my pitots
because they're always venting anyway and no bug that I know of will crawl
up into that smelly hole. I think I'll recheck my header venting system
when I swap units to make sure that all is well in that regard. It's
installed per SS instructions.
Darrel
> Just out of curiosity, you guys with bulging headers...Do you put
rubber
> tubing or anything over your tank vents while the plane is sitting???
> This is now I checked my header for leaks during the building phase.
> With full gas in the header and the vents sealed off, the tank will bulge
due to
> the gas trying to vent off.
>
> Don Smythe
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 10
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
My belly drain was leaking and when I pulled it out I found a tiny bit of
debris had gotten stuck in the o-ring area that prevented a good seal.
Cleaning it up fixed the problem.
If that doesn't work, I'd replace the whole valve. They aren't expensive.
Darrel
> My fuel tank spring loaded drain valve continues to drip after I test the
> tank for water, etc. I have to pull down on the fitting to stop the
> dripping. This is the standard part issued by SkyStar in the kit. I
assume
> there is an O ring on the inside making the seal.
>
> What is the best fix? Remove and replace the O ring or replace the whole
> drain valve?
>
> Mike Chaney
> Model IV
>
>
Message 11
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
It's probably got crud in it preventing it from closing all the way...mine
did.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Chaney" <mdps_mc@swoca.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: fuel drain
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mike Chaney <mdps_mc@SWOCA.NET>
>
> My fuel tank spring loaded drain valve continues to drip after I test the
> tank for water, etc. I have to pull down on the fitting to stop the
> dripping. This is the standard part issued by SkyStar in the kit. I
assume
> there is an O ring on the inside making the seal.
>
> What is the best fix? Remove and replace the O ring or replace the whole
> drain valve?
>
> Mike Chaney
> Model IV
>
>
Message 12
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
What is the best fix? Remove and replace the O ring or replace the whole
drain valve?
Mike Chaney
Model IV
Mike,
Remove them and plug the holes with slotted brass pipe plugs. When I had
my tanks cut open, I had a good opportunity to study the layout of those
drains. The insides of the tanks are flat in the area of the drain. There is
enough room outboard and aft of those drains to hold approximately 1/2 cup of
water. In other words, those drains don't catch anything anyway. I
The above 1/2 cup is what you have if you have the old type tanks with
the aft fuel outlet. If you have the newer tanks with the fuel outlet more
towards the center of the tank, you would have even more water and the drains
would be even less useful.
The dripping drains will also most certainly ruin the Lexan in the doors
if the door is open.
IMHO,
Don Smythe
Message 13
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
> debris had gotten stuck in the o-ring area that prevented a good seal.
> Cleaning it up fixed the problem.
> If that doesn't work, I'd replace the whole valve. They aren't expensive.
>
>
I see a lot of talk about replacing/repairing/reworking that little valve. I
guess I'll catch some flap about saying, "trash them". I might add one more
thing. When I was in the process of doing some flow testing of the tanks, I
shimmed the wing up on a table to closely represent it in a flying mode. I
purposely added some colored water with the gas while the tanks were still cut
open ( I was able to put my eye right at the drain). The 1/2 cup that I
mentioned is based on testing. However, I forget exactly how much water it was.
1/2
cup is a ball park memory thing. As soon as I saw that, out came the valves
and in went the plugs.
The fiberglass on the outside of the tanks where the valves screw in is
convex. That would leave a person to believe that the inside of the tanks are
concave to allow a low point capture area for water..Ain't so. The inside of
the tanks are flat and provide "NO" capture area.
Again IMHO
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 14
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Paul <pwilson@climber.org>
If one were to buy a new valve there is no assurance that you would get new inventory
with the good or latest seal. It is much safer to replace the o-rings with
the latest one.
Paul
Message 15
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Darrel,
I had the same question. Would that fuel lube just
wash off? I borrowed a sample from a hangar mate and
he said it was made to be used in fuel, so I tried it.
Only time will tell, but I found that it is already
getting harder to turn again and I haven't run the
engine but once since reinstalling the valve.
I was considering taking the valve out entirely and
installing wing only shutoff valves. But in an
emergency, you need to shut it all off quickly and the
header tank would still flow, so I stuck with the one
valve.
I do expect that I'll have to reopen that valve and
fix it again. Thanks for the info on the tapers.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Fox5flyer <morid@northland.lib.mi.us> wrote:
> Kurt, the next time you have that fuel valve out,
> take it apart and try
> using some polishing compound on the tapers. I used
> some on my old valve
> and it's much smoother, but I don't know how long
> it'll last. They need a
> lube of some sort to stay smooth. Do you think that
> fuel lube will disolve
> in gas?
> Darrel
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Bulging header tank |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Darrel,
ACS has aluminum specificly for fuel tanks listed with
the al sheets. It is .040 or .050 5052H-32 al. I
used the .050. If you make the same size header tank
as origional, it will weigh less in al, even with the
.050 thickness. :-)
It is hard to weld that thinwall, and my welder had
enough trouble with the .050. The .040 might be a lot
more problems for a welder.
I weighed both tanks, but I forgot the difference.
They were very close, even though my new tank was much
bigger.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI tirbo
--- Fox5flyer <morid@northland.lib.mi.us> wrote:
..........
> As for the header tank, Kurt Schrader, who built an
> aluminum unit, sent me
> his original (arrived yesterday Kurt, thanks!) and
> as soon as I have the
> time I plan to install it. Then the plan is to use
> my old one as a template
> and see if I can find someone to weld me up one
> using aluminum. Anybody have any recommendations
> as to what thickness and type of alum I should use,
> considering strength, weight, and weldability?
> Darrel
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Bulging header tank |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
0.060 5052H aluminum
BTW, if you're going to the trouble of replacing your
fuel valve, go ahead and install a good quality ball
valve and you'll never have to worry about it again.
Regards,
Ted
--- Original Message ---
From: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Bulging header tank
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer"
<morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
>
>I was fortunate to have found a replacement valve
from Rick Weiss and all is
>well now in that regard. However, it's the same
type of valve and I'm not
>sure how long it'll last and, as it's a brass taper
fit with no o-rings, it
>may not last any longer than the first one. Time
will tell. Thanks for the
>valve Rick! Currently I'm trying to locate some
thick grease that's
>impervious to fuel. An occasional lube job on the
tapers is really all the
>valve needs, however it has to be impervious to
fuel. Any suggestions out
>there?
>As for the header tank, Kurt Schrader, who built an
aluminum unit, sent me
>his original (arrived yesterday Kurt, thanks!) and
as soon as I have the
>time I plan to install it. Then the plan is to use
my old one as a template
>and see if I can find someone to weld me up one
using aluminum. Anybody
>have any recommendations as to what thickness and
type of alum I should use,
>considering strength, weight, and weldability?
>Darrel
>
>> Hi Darrel,
>>
>> I just replaced my fuel valve with the Skystar
retrofit kit. The valve
>> looks a bit more robust than the original. The
original froze up once
>> and I took it apart and reworked it (it had some
brass chips in it)
>> and it recently became very hard to turn so I gave
up and replaced it.
>>
>> The replacement valve is a bitch to install. I had
to build a bracket
>> to capture it from turning since it doesen't mount
like the original.
>>
>> Since I had the seat out I checked my header tank
(after reading your
>> message) and found that my tank is bulged in the
back also!
>>
>> The tank seems good and solid, so I plan to stay
with it and keep an
>> eye on at when I do my yearly inspection and
maintenance.
>>
>> Allan Arthur
>> N40AA Series 5 Taildragger (140 hours)
>> 912 ULS, Warp Drive 3 blade prop
>> Martinez, CA (Byron Airport, Hanger C8)
>>
>> ----------
>> >From: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
>> >To: "Kitfox List" <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
>> >Subject: Kitfox-List: Bulging header tank
>> >Date: Wed, Aug 4, 2004, 8:10 AM
>> >
>>
>> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer"
><morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
>> >
>> > While replacing my fuel valve I had the seat
assembly out of the
>airplane
>> > and I noticed that the plastic header tank is
bulging out in the back
>side.
>> > This side is normally flat and where it butts up
against the inverted V
>> > support tubes it's bulging as much as 3/4".
This is has me concerned
>and
>> > I'd like to replace the tank with a new one.
Anybody else have this
>> > problem? Anybody have good one to unload?
Better yet, I recall that
>> > someone was producing aluminum replacements.
Any available?
>> > Thanks,
>> > Darrel
>> > S5 Outback
>>
>>
>
>
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Message 18
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Sorry Don. I thought this was about the belly drain. My mistake. If it's
about the wing tank drains and not the belly drain, then I agree with you.
Lose the drains and plug the holes.
Darrel
>
> > debris had gotten stuck in the o-ring area that prevented a good seal.
> > Cleaning it up fixed the problem.
> > If that doesn't work, I'd replace the whole valve. They aren't
expensive.
> >
> >
>
> I see a lot of talk about replacing/repairing/reworking that little valve.
I
> guess I'll catch some flap about saying, "trash them". I might add one
more
> thing. When I was in the process of doing some flow testing of the tanks,
I
> shimmed the wing up on a table to closely represent it in a flying mode.
I
> purposely added some colored water with the gas while the tanks were still
cut
> open ( I was able to put my eye right at the drain). The 1/2 cup that I
> mentioned is based on testing. However, I forget exactly how much water
it was. 1/2
> cup is a ball park memory thing. As soon as I saw that, out came the
valves
> and in went the plugs.
> The fiberglass on the outside of the tanks where the valves screw in
is
> convex. That would leave a person to believe that the inside of the tanks
are
> concave to allow a low point capture area for water..Ain't so. The inside
of
> the tanks are flat and provide "NO" capture area.
>
> Again IMHO
> Don Smythe
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Bulging header tank |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
.060 is easier to weld which by default also provides
better weld integrity. The weight difference is
negligible, particularly if you're going to go with a
larger tank since the fuel weights a lot more than
the small amount of aluminum!
I'd check locally before ordering 5052. It's a
common alloy and typically sold in 4x8 or 4x10 sheets
priced by the pound so you save a LOT of shipping.
--- Original Message ---
From: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Bulging header tank
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
>Darrel,
>
>ACS has aluminum specificly for fuel tanks listed
with
>the al sheets. It is .040 or .050 5052H-32 al. I
>used the .050. If you make the same size header tank
>as origional, it will weigh less in al, even with the
>.050 thickness. :-)
>
>It is hard to weld that thinwall, and my welder had
>enough trouble with the .050. The .040 might be a
lot
>more problems for a welder.
>
>I weighed both tanks, but I forgot the difference.
>They were very close, even though my new tank was
much
>bigger.
>
>Kurt S. S-5/NSI tirbo
>
>--- Fox5flyer <morid@northland.lib.mi.us> wrote:
>..........
>> As for the header tank, Kurt Schrader, who built an
>> aluminum unit, sent me
>> his original (arrived yesterday Kurt, thanks!) and
>> as soon as I have the
>> time I plan to install it. Then the plan is to use
>> my old one as a template
>> and see if I can find someone to weld me up one
>> using aluminum. Anybody have any recommendations
>> as to what thickness and type of alum I should use,
>> considering strength, weight, and weldability?
>> Darrel
>
>
>
>__________________________________
>http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
>
>
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Message 20
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 8/11/04 10:48:51 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
morid@northland.lib.mi.us writes:
> Sorry Don. I thought this was about the belly drain. My mistake. If it's
> about the wing tank drains and not the belly drain, then I agree with you.
>
Hope I didn't mess up...I thought the thread was about the wing tank drain.
Of course, don't trash the belly drain.
Don Smythe
Message 21
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Glenn Horne" <glennflys@rcn.com>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve Cooper
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: fuel drain
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Steve Cooper" <spdrflyr@earthlink.net>
It's probably got crud in it preventing it from closing all the way...mine
did.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Chaney" <mdps_mc@swoca.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: fuel drain
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mike Chaney <mdps_mc@SWOCA.NET>
>
> My fuel tank spring loaded drain valve continues to drip after I test the
> tank for water, etc. I have to pull down on the fitting to stop the
> dripping. This is the standard part issued by SkyStar in the kit. I
assume
> there is an O ring on the inside making the seal.
>
> What is the best fix? Remove and replace the O ring or replace the whole
> drain valve?
>
> Mike Chaney
> Model IV
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Preflight checklist |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Randy Daughenbaugh" <rjdaugh@rapidnet.com>
Allan,
Thanks much!
It is very timely for me.
Randy - N10NH - Passed final, but a few details before the airworthiness
Cert issues. !!!!!!
.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Allan Arthur
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Preflight checklist
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Allan Arthur" <alnan@earthlink.net>
Below is my checklist. I have it taped to the back of my 5 x 8.5 inch
clipboard. I hope that the text formatting gets thru ok, otherwise it
will be a mess.
Allan Arthur
N40AA Series 5 Taildragger (140 Hours)
912 ULS, Warp Drive 3 blade prop
Martinez, CA (Byron Airport, Hanger C8)
------------------------------------------
>>> * ALWAYS USE CHECK LIST *
>>> (Review Emergency Proceedures Prior to Flight)
PRESTART PRETAKEOFF CRUISE
PreFlt - Cmplt Doors - Locked Flap - UP,Trim
Belts&Harness Control-Fr&Crt Pwr- 5K to 5.2K
Radio&Lts-OFF Trim - Takeoff APPROACH
Brakes - TEST Flt Inst - Set Belts & Harness
FuelValv - ON FuelValv-Chk Pwr - 4500
MasterSw - ON OilTemp - 120 Flaps - 1
IgnOFF-CHOKE RunUp - 4000 Trim - 80,70
"C L E A R !" EngInst - Chk DECENT
START - 5sec. drp300/dif150 Pwr - 3000
Wait - 10 sec. Idle - Chk Trim - 70,60
Ignition - ON Strobe - ON SHORTFINAL
Brakes-HOLD Radio - Set Flaps - 2
"C L E A R !" Flaps - 1,Trim Trim - 60,50
START FuelValv - CHK SECURE
Idle - 2000 TAKEOFF Rad/Lts-OFF
OilPress - 30 Power - FULL Idle,Mags-OFF
Radio,On, Set Vx=60 Vy=70 Mstr/Gas-OFF
>>> ENGINE FAILURE....
>>> On Takeoff .... During Flight.... Inflight Fire....
>>> Trim- 65mph Trim 65mph ...Engine:
>>> Turn to Land FuelValv - off
>>> ...Below 500ft: FuelValv - Chk Ignition - off
>>> Land straight Ignition - Chk Flaps - Trim
>>> Choke - Chk MasterSw -Off
>>> ...Above 500ft: FuelTank - Chk Slip to Land
>>> Circle to Land Attempt ...Electrical:
>>> FuelValv - Chk Restart MasterSw -Off
>>> Ignition - Chk then... Doors -
Closed
>>> Choke - Chk ...FuelValv - off
FireExtinguish
>>> "Announce" Ignition - off Land ASAP
>>> FuelValv - Off Flaps & Trim ...Cabin:
>>> Ignition - Off MasterSw -Off Doors -
Closed
>>> Flaps & Trim LandTail Low
FireExtinguish
>>> MasterSw -Off Secure Aircraft Land ASAP
Message 23
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| Subject: | [Off-topic] A very amateurish video |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
Hello guys,
Here is a very amateurish video I made on Monday, when I got the visit of that
German Vixen. No, I don't have a nice video pod like Lowell and this is my
first try to get anything on the internet but ... here it is:
http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/hokksund.mov
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Prop choice for lycoming |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Flybradair@cs.com
Any advice or suggestions from the lycoming drivers on their prop and spinner
choice?
I did contact Sensenich and they recommend W74EK-2-54, any advice?
Cliff are you still using the Aymer-Demuth and are you happy with the prop
and pitch?
Anyone else feel free to jump in----I need to order one!
Brad Martin
Wichita
5--lyc o235-l2c
wiring
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: [Off-topic] A very amateurish video |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Herbert R Gottelt <gofalke@sbcglobal.net>
Michel, a real nice video for your first one on the internet!
Reminds me of our flight thru the Northwest Territories, thru Alaska and back.
Herbert Gottelt
Mt. Prospect, IL
Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe
Hello guys,
Here is a very amateurish video I made on Monday, when I got the visit of that
German Vixen. No, I don't have a nice video pod like Lowell and this is my
first try to get anything on the internet but ... here it is:
http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/hokksund.mov
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Flaperon Balance |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
I have a Kitfox MKIV Classic Speedster/582. It has the counterbalanced
flaperons. The guys up the club the other day were looking at my plane and
remarked that the weight balance was so critical that a coat of paint on
them would put them out of balance with drastic results. I bought the plane
already made and am not familiar with this aspect. Can anyone comment if it
is this critical ? How are these things setup ? Are they actually balanced
about the hinge line ? Rex.
rexjan@bigpond.com
Message 27
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| Subject: | Fly- in at liberty Mo. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: <kirkhull@sbcglobal.net>
Eaa chapter 612 is having a fly-in at Roosterville (0N0) airport just north west
of liberty Mo. on August 21, 2004.
Breakfast starts at 7:30 with aircraft judging starting at 8:00.
The judging will be for the pilots choice award and will be presented at 11:00.
As I am almost fiinished with a clasic IV I would love to see some other kitfoxes
at the fly-in. If you would like to come and need more info please ask.
I will be more than happy to send you any info you need.
Message 28
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|
"Jim Steinbrink" <jimarysteinbrink@aol.com>,
"Andy Stanton" <stntnandy@cs.com>, "Randy Roy" <randellroy@msn.com>,
"Jim Pickett" <monowing@accessus.net>, "Marvin Orr" <no1orrchid@cs.com>,
"kitfox list" <kitfox-list@matronics.com>,
"Ray Kurian Jr." <raykurian@earthlink.net>,
"Jason Kessler" <dv_viper98@yahoo.com>, "Donna Hull" <dhull99@yahoo.com>,
"Kenny Horvatic" <horvatic@earthlink.net>,
"Carl Hineborg" <carlhineborg@juno.com>, "Art Gentry" <rag@epsi.net>,
"Chris Gagnon" <chrisg@cameron.net>, "Ron Eason" <ron@jrl-engineering.com>,
"pat darling" <pdarling@sbcglobal.net>,
"Will Crawford" <wcrawford@kc.rr.com>, "Tim Craft" <tcraft@socket.net>,
"George Craft" <gbcraft@socket.net>, "Dave Courtney" <drcourt@swbell.net>,
"Les Chambers" <l_chambers@ckt.net>, "Allen Brown" <alnkay@sbcglobal.net>,
"George Bradley" <gab76@isotechnetworks.net>
| Subject: | EAA Chapter 612 FLY-IN at Roosterville MO. |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: <kirkhull@sbcglobal.net>
EAA Chapter 612 FLy - in
EAA chapter 612 will hold a fly-in and Pancake breakfast at Roosterville airport
(0N0) near Liberty Mo.
The breakfast will start at 7:30 with Young Eagles flights starting at 8:00 and
lasting till Noon.
There will also be a prize awarded at 11:00 for the best aircraft flown in.
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Flaperon Balance |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: <kirkhull@sbcglobal.net>
Dont remember anything in the Clasic VI manual about it but I will have to
take a close look as I am almost ready to cover and paint my clasic VI. If I
dont see anything posted before I can get over to look at the manual I will
lat you know what i find.
->
> I have a Kitfox MKIV Classic Speedster/582. It has the counterbalanced
> flaperons. The guys up the club the other day were looking at my plane and
> remarked that the weight balance was so critical that a coat of paint on
> them would put them out of balance with drastic results. I bought the
plane
> already made and am not familiar with this aspect. Can anyone comment if
it
> is this critical ? How are these things setup ? Are they actually
balanced
> about the hinge line ? Rex.
> rexjan@bigpond.com
Message 30
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| Subject: | Flaperon Balance |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jdmcbean" <jdmcbean@cableone.net>
Rex,
Being seriously out of balance can have drastic results... A coat of paint
isn't going to do it... I don't think they make paint that heavy :)
Blue Skies
John & Debra McBean
"The Sky is not the Limit... It's a Playground"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rex & Jan Shaw
Subject: Kitfox-List: Flaperon Balance
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
I have a Kitfox MKIV Classic Speedster/582. It has the counterbalanced
flaperons. The guys up the club the other day were looking at my plane and
remarked that the weight balance was so critical that a coat of paint on
them would put them out of balance with drastic results. I bought the plane
already made and am not familiar with this aspect. Can anyone comment if it
is this critical ? How are these things setup ? Are they actually balanced
about the hinge line ? Rex.
rexjan@bigpond.com
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Prop choice for lycoming |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clifford Begnaud" <shoeless@barefootpilot.com>
Brad,
I'm very happy with the Aymar -Demuth prop. It is a 72X47 but actually
exceeds the theoretical speed of a 47 pitch prop. I have no problem
achieving 130 mph TAS and can even do more if I really want to burn some
fuel. Also, the takeoff and climb performance is very good with this prop.
The static RPM is about 2450 at full power, at 5100' elevation, a little
more at lower elevations.
It seems to be about as good a compromise as I could ask for. I also like
the leading edge protection. It is "ground up steel" mixed with either
plastic or epoxy. It's very tough, yet easy to repair.
Keep in mind that they are backlogged with orders, so get your order in now
if you want one (410-461-4329).
We just have a small helmet type spinner. I think the planes speed would
benefit from a full size spinner that fit the flat area on the front of the
cowl (about 11 or 12 inches). I would expect to pick up 2-4 mph with a
larger spinner.
I remember some comments recently from some of the guys with the Cont.
IO-240 saying that their Sensenich prop gave good cruise speeds but lousy
take-off and climb. I think they are using a 74x 56, but not 100% certain.
If so, then you are likely to be in the same situation with a 74 X 54 on the
0-235.
One last comment about our prop; while I like it a lot, ideally for a bush
plane I would prefer it to be 76" in diameter with a lower pitch that would
allow the engine to achieve 2600-2700 rpm static. This would sacrifice some
speed, but would decrease the takeoff roll, increase climb "angle" (not
necessarily increase climb "rate") and add drag on approach so that it could
be done steeper.
The reality is that our current prop can get me out of anything I've been
able to get into so far or that I'm likely to get into in the lower 48. The
takeoff roll currently is only slightly longer than the landing roll, so
further decreasing the take-off roll doesn't have much practical application
unless I can reduce the landing distance. Of course I might be able to do
that, slightly, by adding VG's to the wing.
Another thing to consider is the Lightspeed electronic ignition in place of
one of the mags (or both if you really want the best). You will get lower
fuel burn, more power, easier starts and smoother running. Ours has the dual
ignition setup (no mags!) with a small backup battery that powers just one
ignition in case of complete failure of the alternator and main battery
(very unlikely). I can't say enough good things about this ignition and will
always use them on any experimental plane with a Lycoming or Continental
that I own.
Every time I take someone flying they are amazed at how our engine starts
like a new car. Just one hand start flip will get her running after sitting
out on a cold freezing night even without preheat! Isn't that what you want
from a bush plane?
Best Regards,
Cliff
Erie, CO
> Any advice or suggestions from the lycoming drivers on their prop and
spinner
> choice?
>
> I did contact Sensenich and they recommend W74EK-2-54, any advice?
>
> Cliff are you still using the Aymer-Demuth and are you happy with the prop
> and pitch?
>
> Anyone else feel free to jump in----I need to order one!
>
> Brad Martin
> Wichita
> 5--lyc o235-l2c
> wiring
>
>
Message 32
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Kirk Martenson" <kirk@mninter.net>
Jim Burke:
Do you have a Rotax 912 in your Kitfox? I have had a very slight rough
running engine (Rotax 912UL). I changed the spark plugs, and rebuilt the
carburetors. Still rough, but only slightly, no rpm drop. I would like
change out the plug wires as well, but I don't know if you can just change
the wires. Do you have to buy the whole coil?
Kirk Martenson
Classic IV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Burke" <jeburke94je@direcway.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Spark Plugs
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Burke <jeburke94je@direcway.com>
>
> Curious you should bring spark plugs up Don, I had a similar problem a
> couple of weeks ago. I changed out the new plugs and the miss went away
for
> a couple of flights (about three hours). Then it came back. So I replaced
> the plugs wires and have put eight hours on the plane with no Miss. I
guess
> it could have been a bag of mixed tricks but it runs great now.
>
>
> James E. Burke
> (N94JE)
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Date: 08/09/04 14:34:07
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Spark Plugs
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
> I experienced a slight miss in my 582 engine. This started less than
5
> hours after putting in new BR8ES plugs. I replace the plugs again today
and
> the miss went away. Old plugs looked brand new and color was excellent.
> Has anyone ever had a new plug go bad in a short time? This is my
first
>
>
> Don Smythe
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Flaperon Balance |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
Rex,
There are at least a couple of thousand flying Kitfoxes with painted
counterbalances. I get a kick out of all the free advice we sometimes get
about our airplanes by "experts". I suspect that if our cruise was in the
in the multiple hundred mph range it might be a little more critical.
I get people from time to time telling me how dangerously configured my
Model IV is. I am knocking on wood as I say this, but I have had no
problems whatsoever flying my airplane and it was built by an amateur - me,
and turned over 600 hours on the 46 hour flight too and from Oshkosh. Over
11,000 ft over the Rockies and under 100 feet across the flatlands of rural
Wyoming, South Dakota and points East.
Lowell
Lowell
This list has a lot of experience accumulated. This is the place to get the
free advice
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Flaperon Balance
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
>
> I have a Kitfox MKIV Classic Speedster/582. It has the counterbalanced
> flaperons. The guys up the club the other day were looking at my plane and
> remarked that the weight balance was so critical that a coat of paint on
> them would put them out of balance with drastic results. I bought the
plane
> already made and am not familiar with this aspect. Can anyone comment if
it
> is this critical ? How are these things setup ? Are they actually
balanced
> about the hinge line ? Rex.
> rexjan@bigpond.com
>
>
Message 34
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: KITFOXPILOT@att.net
-------------- Original message from Mike Chaney : --------------
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Mike Chaney
>
> My fuel tank spring loaded drain valve continues to drip after I test the
> tank for water, etc. I have to pull down on the fitting to stop the
> dripping. This is the standard part issued by SkyStar in the kit. I assume
> there is an O ring on the inside making the seal.
>
> What is the best fix? Remove and replace the O ring or replace the whole
> drain valve?
>
> Mike Chaney
> Model IV
> Hi Mike,
I found that the little O-Rings were bad on mine, just went ahead and replaced
them! no problems anymore. Make sure you check all your hoses that feed the
fuel system, I had mil-spec, and had to replace them all they did not mix well
with regular gas.
Ray
>
>
>
>
>
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-------------- Original message from Mike Chaney <MDPS_MC@SWOCA.NET>: --------------
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: Mike Chaney <MDPS_MC@SWOCA.NET>
My fuel tank spring loaded drain valve continues to drip after I test the
tank for water, etc. I have to pull down on the fitting to stop the
dripping. This is the standard part issued by SkyStar in the kit. I assume
there is an O ring on the inside making the seal.
What is the best fix? Remove and replace the O ring or replace the whole
drain valve?
Mike Chaney
Model IV
Hi Mike,
I found that the little O-Rings were bad on mine, just went ahead and replaced
them! no problems anymore. Make sure you check all your hoses that feed the fuel
system, I had mil-spec, and had to replace them allthey did not mix well with
regular gas.
Ray
ests: http://www.matronics.com/digest/kitfox-list
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Message 35
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| Subject: | ground adjustable prop on nsi |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Eric Osmond <eoeonote@yahoo.com>
Just wondering if anyone on this list has any
experience
running a ground adjustable prop on an nsi engine
rather than
their cap 140.
I'm ready to buy a prop for my kitfox IV-1200 nsi
ea-81
(2 batteries in rear for weight). I had planned on
getting a
ground adjustable prop set to a compromise between
good climb out and good cruise.
NSI said that that the vast majority of people buying
the ea-81 have bought the cap 140. They didn't think
I would be happy with the performance of a ground
adjustable on that engine, but the difference in price
/ complexity is huge.
Is the performance of the ground adjustable prop on
this engine really that dismal?
Look forward to any experiences you can relay.
Thanks.
Eric
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