Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:51 AM - Re: Bulging header tank (kurt schrader)
2. 04:01 AM - Re: My fuel tank spring loaded drain valve continues to drip (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
3. 05:28 AM - Re: Misc Construction Question (Roger McConnell)
4. 06:36 AM - Re: Manometer (Bob Unternaehrer)
5. 07:30 AM - Re: Bulging header tank (Flier)
6. 08:46 AM - Re: Bulging header tank (kurt schrader)
7. 09:59 AM - Re: [Off-topic] A very amateurish video (kurt schrader)
8. 11:28 AM - Re: Bulging header tank (Bob Unternaehrer)
9. 02:04 PM - Broken rudder hinge (Floran Higgins)
10. 03:35 PM - Re: Broken rudder hinge (KITFOXPILOT@att.net)
11. 05:00 PM - Re: My fuel tank spring loaded drain valve continues to drip (neflyer48)
12. 05:35 PM - Re: Broken rudder hinge (Shane Sather)
13. 07:24 PM - Re: Broken rudder hinge (Bob Unternaehrer)
14. 07:25 PM - I experienced a slight miss in my 582 engine (Rex & Jan Shaw)
15. 07:39 PM - Re: Broken rudder hinge (Floran Higgins)
16. 07:43 PM - Re: Broken rudder hinge (Floran Higgins)
17. 07:56 PM - Re: Broken rudder hinge (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
18. 07:58 PM - Re: I experienced a slight miss in my 582 engine (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
19. 08:40 PM - Re: Broken rudder hinge (John E. King)
20. 10:00 PM - Re: Broken rudder hinge (kurt schrader)
21. 10:17 PM - Re: Bulging header tank (kurt schrader)
22. 11:09 PM - Fw: Broken rudder hinge (Shane Sather)
23. 11:28 PM - Re: My fuel tank spring loaded drain valve continues to drip (jimshumaker)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Bulging header tank |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Darrel,
No, I had a local aviation welder do the tank for me.
I did the pattern, cutting and bending work first. I
also made the bungs (to mount the tank fittings) out
of female fittings cut in half. He welded the edges,
but it had to go back for 2 repairs where the welds
were weak or leaked. Given that he is the best tank
welder here a'bouts, I guess it must be hard to do
that thinwall material.
I only have very limnited experience with gas welding.
Kurt S.
--- Fox5flyer <morid@northland.lib.mi.us> wrote:
> Did you weld up your own? I have an AC buzz box and
> a wire welder with argon. Using the correct
> rods/wire can I weld the aluminum with either of
> these units? I'm pretty handy with this sort of
> thing, or does this require a pro to ensure
> it's done correctly?
> Darrel
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: My fuel tank spring loaded drain valve continues to drip |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 8/13/04 6:36:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
cnichols@scrtc.com writes:
>
> I thought we'd determined that the spring-loaded drain in question was the
> one in the header tank, not the ones in the wing tanks. That's certainly
> the one I have the most trouble with continuing to dribble, and as
>
I thought it was the "wing". Who started the original thread anyway?
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 3
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| Subject: | Misc Construction Question |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Roger McConnell" <rdmac@swbell.net>
Jim,
It is only necessary to sand the powder coating in the areas you are going
to put the adhesive. Get a good Scotch Brite pad and just roughen it enough
to take the shine off the powder coating, After you do this wipe it all down
with denatured alcohol. It worked for me.
Roger Mac
S7/912S (soon I hope)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Carriere
Subject: Kitfox-List: Misc Construction Question
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Carriere <jimcarriere@yahoo.com>
Hello list,
I've been subscribed to this for about a month, after reading
through the archives. I have a Series 7 kit scattered through my
garage and the rest of my house.
My question is a little better suited to Skystar tech support, but I
didn't call them until too late in the day today.
When preparing the steel tube frame of the tail feathers to attach
the wooden ribs, how much do you sand the surface of the steel
tubes? The builder's manual doesn't say exactly how much. Where
each rib attaches, do you sand down to bare metal, or do you only
roughen the surface of the powder coating?
Serious, albeit very basic question, and thanks in advance.
Jim
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
Message 4
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilohcom@c-magic.com>
I started to use my $50 mercury motorcyle manometer to syc Bing 54 carbs on
a rotax 503, but using the vacume taps on the sides of the carbs they
wouldn't pull enough vacume, except at idle to read anything. So I changed
to water with food coloring in it. Had to extend the hoses verticle a
little to keep water from going out the top when idleing, but other wise
worked ok. Got very accurate readings at mid-range and full power with
water. Oil is lighter than water, so it might take more verticle extension
to work and would be messy. One person indicated that "not to run the
engine to high" or the mercury would get in the carb, but I thing he meant
to slow, since the MP goes down with increased speed. Bob U.
----- Original Message -----
From: <AlbertaIV@aol.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Manometer
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
>
> > It is yellow plastic, about 24" long, 4" wide with four clear vertical
> > tubes
> > which the mercury rises up into.
> > The face is graduated. They are commonly referred to in "motorcycle
speak"
> > as a
> > "Carb Stick".
> >
>
>
> I looked on the web about manometers and found a site that talked
about
> using oil rather than mercury. The article went on to give a couple
points.
> Oil will provide a more accurate reading than mercury. Also, if the oil
> accidentally gets ingested into the carbs, it won't hurt the engine.
> I've never used a manometer and don't have a clue. Does any of this
make
> sense? The one I saw on the web can be built for about 2 bucks.
>
> Don Smythe
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> ---
>
>
---
Message 5
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| Subject: | Bulging header tank |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Flier" <flier@sbcglobal.net>
You really have to find someone that has TIG experience on the thinner metal
if you go that route. I learned it the hard way, by messing up a lot of
aluminum. I've successfully done down to .040 but it's tricky and there's
just no good reason to go that thin. When you get up to .060 and beyond
it's significantly more forgiving. Good inspection of the welds will show
where it's gonna leak. With that said, fuel has a tendency to weep
sometimes where water or high pressure air doesn't. By the time the fuel
goes in it's too late to do anything unless the tank is argon purged and I
still don't care much for welding even then. If it's got a leak by that
time a good coating of Kreem is the way to go.
Regards,
Ted
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of kurt
schrader
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Bulging header tank
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Darrel,
No, I had a local aviation welder do the tank for me.
I did the pattern, cutting and bending work first. I
also made the bungs (to mount the tank fittings) out
of female fittings cut in half. He welded the edges,
but it had to go back for 2 repairs where the welds
were weak or leaked. Given that he is the best tank
welder here a'bouts, I guess it must be hard to do
that thinwall material.
I only have very limnited experience with gas welding.
Kurt S.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Bulging header tank |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
I took my pattern over to my welder before bending
metal, to see what he needed. He is an experienced
tank welder and he insisted on having tabs at the
joints due to the .050 thickness, so I made 1/2" tabs.
This was a problem for me since it could reduce the
tank size condiderably making room for the tabs to
clear the seat and frame. I ended up making the tabs
all point up, down, or back around the frame.
Maybe if you go with thicker metal, you can avoid the
tab problem and have butt joints. I think Tom's tanks
are that way.
Mine still had to be touched up for 2 leaks. They
were really seeps and would have been hard to find
without the paint blistering over them. An old Marine
buddy who is an aircraft metal worker gave me the
solution for that. The "experimental" but safe and
effective fix was done with J.B. Weld. You have to
ruff it up good and clean it well first. Don't make
any out flowing scratches when ruffing it. Radial
only. That has worked very well for me.
Now that is not "by the book" but is typical of how
Marines get things done, so make your own judgement.
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Flier <flier@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> You really have to find someone that has TIG
> experience on the thinner metal if you go that
route.
> I learned it the hard way, by messing up a lot of
> aluminum. I've successfully done down to .040 but
> it's tricky and there's just no good reason to go
> that thin. When you get up to .060 and beyond
> it's significantly more forgiving. Good inspection
> of the welds will show where it's gonna leak.
> With that said, fuel has a tendency to weep
> sometimes where water or high pressure air doesn't.
> By the time the fuel goes in it's too late to do
> anything unless the tank is argon purged and I
> still don't care much for welding even then. If
> it's got a leak by that time a good coating of
> Kreem is the way to go.
>
> Regards,
>
> Ted
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: kurt schrader
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Bulging header tank
>
> Darrel,
>
> No, I had a local aviation welder do the tank for
> me.
> I did the pattern, cutting and bending work first.
> I
> also made the bungs (to mount the tank fittings) out
> of female fittings cut in half. He welded the
> edges,
> but it had to go back for 2 repairs where the welds
> were weak or leaked. Given that he is the best tank
> welder here a'bouts, I guess it must be hard to do
> that thinwall material.
>
> I only have very limnited experience with gas
> welding.
>
> Kurt S.
__________________________________
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: [Off-topic] A very amateurish video |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Thanks Lowell and Solar,
Unfortunately this camera doesn't have an external
mike connection. I'm gonna have to cover it with
something..... :-(
It is my little digital camera and I am using it for
the higher resolution. I can't read the instruments
off the video camera like I hoped to for test flying.
On still mode with the digital, I can even see the
dust on the gauges, the resolution is so good. I put
it in video mode only for takeoff, and that is when it
is over-modulated with the sound. I do wish it had a
jack so I could add voice to the pics and video.
I am not a video artist like you and Michel. Just a
data collector at best.
Now I wish I had one of those all-in-one engine
monitors that records the flight readings. Great for
testing!
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Lowell Fitt <lcfitt@inreach.com> wrote:
> Kurt, the easy way to get voice into your videos is
> to get a small lapel mike and put it into your
> headset earpiece and plug the other end into your
> camera. You will still get a little engine noise,
> but you can discern the voices.
>
> Lowell
__________________________________
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Bulging header tank |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilohcom@c-magic.com>
You could have made the tanks the size you wanted to and cut them off after
welding. Bob U.
----- Original Message -----
From: "kurt schrader" <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Bulging header tank
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader
<smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
> I took my pattern over to my welder before bending
> metal, to see what he needed. He is an experienced
> tank welder and he insisted on having tabs at the
> joints due to the .050 thickness, so I made 1/2" tabs.
> This was a problem for me since it could reduce the
> tank size condiderably making room for the tabs to
> clear the seat and frame. I ended up making the tabs
> all point up, down, or back around the frame.
>
> Maybe if you go with thicker metal, you can avoid the
> tab problem and have butt joints. I think Tom's tanks
> are that way.
>
> Mine still had to be touched up for 2 leaks. They
> were really seeps and would have been hard to find
> without the paint blistering over them. An old Marine
> buddy who is an aircraft metal worker gave me the
> solution for that. The "experimental" but safe and
> effective fix was done with J.B. Weld. You have to
> ruff it up good and clean it well first. Don't make
> any out flowing scratches when ruffing it. Radial
> only. That has worked very well for me.
>
> Now that is not "by the book" but is typical of how
> Marines get things done, so make your own judgement.
>
> Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
>
> --- Flier <flier@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> > You really have to find someone that has TIG
> > experience on the thinner metal if you go that
> route.
> > I learned it the hard way, by messing up a lot of
> > aluminum. I've successfully done down to .040 but
> > it's tricky and there's just no good reason to go
> > that thin. When you get up to .060 and beyond
> > it's significantly more forgiving. Good inspection
> > of the welds will show where it's gonna leak.
> > With that said, fuel has a tendency to weep
> > sometimes where water or high pressure air doesn't.
> > By the time the fuel goes in it's too late to do
> > anything unless the tank is argon purged and I
> > still don't care much for welding even then. If
> > it's got a leak by that time a good coating of
> > Kreem is the way to go.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Ted
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: kurt schrader
> > To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Bulging header tank
> >
> > Darrel,
> >
> > No, I had a local aviation welder do the tank for
> > me.
> > I did the pattern, cutting and bending work first.
> > I
> > also made the bungs (to mount the tank fittings) out
> > of female fittings cut in half. He welded the
> > edges,
> > but it had to go back for 2 repairs where the welds
> > were weak or leaked. Given that he is the best tank
> > welder here a'bouts, I guess it must be hard to do
> > that thinwall material.
> >
> > I only have very limnited experience with gas
> > welding.
> >
> > Kurt S.
>
>
> __________________________________
>
>
> ---
>
>
---
Message 9
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| Subject: | Broken rudder hinge |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Floran Higgins" <CliffH@outdrs.net>
I have a 1993 Model 4 Speedster. It has four rod end bearings threaded into the
vertical fin that the rudder is hinged to. During preflight this morning I discovered
that two of the four rod end bearings had sheared off at the beginning
of the threads.
Total time on the aircraft is 891 hrs.
I don't have any idea why these rod end bearings sheared off. I did not build this
airplane, but I have flown it about 500 hrs since I bought it. It has never
been abused since I have had it.
It might be that the shaking the airframe gets when the 912S engine is started
is causing the problem.
This might be something other people might want to check.
Floran H.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Broken rudder hinge |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: KITFOXPILOT@att.net
-------------- Original message from "Floran Higgins" : --------------
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Floran Higgins"
>
> I have a 1993 Model 4 Speedster. It has four rod end bearings threaded into the
> vertical fin that the rudder is hinged to. During preflight this morning I
> discovered that two of the four rod end bearings had sheared off at the
> beginning of the threads.
> Total time on the aircraft is 891 hrs.
> I don't have any idea why these rod end bearings sheared off. I did not build
> this airplane, but I have flown it about 500 hrs since I bought it. It has never
> been abused since I have had it.
> It might be that the shaking the airframe gets when the 912S engine is started
> is causing the problem.
> This might be something other people might want to check.
> Floran H.
> Hello,
I have a Model IV, 1200 with a 912S! I just recently sent my gear-box off to Lockwood
to have the slipper clutch installed. Does your 912S have this update?
I was told the the update helps limit the vibration on start up and shut down.
Also updated the weldment due to 912S power. Hope to hear from you.
Ray
>
>
>
>
>
<!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
<style type='text/css'>
p {
margin: 0px;
}
</style>
<!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
-------------- Original message from "Floran Higgins" <CLIFFH@OUTDRS.NET>: --------------
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Floran Higgins" <CLIFFH@OUTDRS.NET>
I have a 1993 Model 4 Speedster. It has four rod end bearings threaded into the
vertical fin that the rudder is hinged to. During preflight this morning I
discovered that two of the four rod end bearings had sheared off at the
beginning of the threads.
Total time on the aircraft is 891 hrs.
I don't have any idea why these rod end bearings sheared off. I did not build
this airplane, but I have flown it about 500 hrs since I bought it. It has never
been abused since I have had it.
It might be that the shaking the airframe gets when the 912S engine is started
is causing the problem.
This might be something other people might want to check.
Floran H.
Hello,
I have a Model IV, 1200 with a 912S! I just recently sent my gear-box off to Lockwood
to have the slipper clutch installed. Does your 912S have this update?
I was told the the update helpslimit thevibration on start up and shut down. Also
updated the weldment due to 912S power. Hope to hear from you.
Ray
se Digests: http://www.matronics.com/digest/kitfox-list
<!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: My fuel tank spring loaded drain valve continues to drip |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "neflyer48" <neflyer48@cableone.net>
I had the dripping drain problem too. I removed them and put in plugs last
year. After flying through lots of rain and having the airplane sit in a hot
and cold hanger, I have never detected any water in the gas. I only check
the gascolator drain once in a while.
Jerry Kohles
Model III 912
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: My fuel tank spring loaded drain valve continues
to drip
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
>
> C'mon Don. That's not accurate. I'll bet lots of them took the advice.
> They just didn't tell you. :-)
> Darrel
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <AlbertaIV@aol.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: My fuel tank spring loaded drain valve continues
> to drip
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
> >
> > In a message dated 8/13/04 7:39:03 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > hflynn46531@yahoo.com writes:
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Why not take them out and replace them with a plug? Any water in the
> fuel
> > > system will end up in the bottom of your header tank. I always check
for
> water
> > > there. IT`s the lowest point in the fuel system and thats where the
> water
> > > should end up.
> > >
> > >
> >
> > I said that and they all avoided me.
> > Don Smythe
> > DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >
> >
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Broken rudder hinge |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Shane Sather" <jeffery@polarnet.ca>
Last week during a pre-flight I noticed that the top hinge of the rudder was
loose. The nut had backed off a bit. The others were fine. I solution may be
just some Locktight applied to the threads. One thing though is sure helps
reinforce the habit of doing a real pre-flight check every time.
Ps I also have the 912s
Arcticfox on floats
----- Original Message -----
From: "Floran Higgins" <CliffH@outdrs.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Broken rudder hinge
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Floran Higgins" <CliffH@outdrs.net>
>
> I have a 1993 Model 4 Speedster. It has four rod end bearings threaded
into the vertical fin that the rudder is hinged to. During preflight this
morning I discovered that two of the four rod end bearings had sheared off
at the beginning of the threads.
> Total time on the aircraft is 891 hrs.
> I don't have any idea why these rod end bearings sheared off. I did not
build this airplane, but I have flown it about 500 hrs since I bought it. It
has never been abused since I have had it.
> It might be that the shaking the airframe gets when the 912S engine is
started is causing the problem.
> This might be something other people might want to check.
> Floran H.
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Broken rudder hinge |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilohcom@c-magic.com>
Floran,,, Good to know. I'm rebuilding my Vertical Stab and rudder to the
taller one with the rod end bearings, so will watch them. There are two
good test beds for fatigueing parts.... A helicopter and you mentioned the
other one. Bob U.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Floran Higgins" <CliffH@outdrs.net>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Broken rudder hinge
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Floran Higgins" <CliffH@outdrs.net>
>
> I have a 1993 Model 4 Speedster. It has four rod end bearings threaded
into the vertical fin that the rudder is hinged to. During preflight this
morning I discovered that two of the four rod end bearings had sheared off
at the beginning of the threads.
> Total time on the aircraft is 891 hrs.
> I don't have any idea why these rod end bearings sheared off. I did not
build this airplane, but I have flown it about 500 hrs since I bought it. It
has never been abused since I have had it.
> It might be that the shaking the airframe gets when the 912S engine is
started is causing the problem.
> This might be something other people might want to check.
> Floran H.
>
>
> ---
>
>
---
Message 14
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| Subject: | I experienced a slight miss in my 582 engine |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rex & Jan Shaw" <rexjan@bigpond.com>
Hi ! Don, you seem a bit interested in plugs so I'd like to run something
past you and everyone else for that matter
. I'm an old Kart racer and plugs were always something you did the best you
could with. I also have a 582 in my MKIV and I do see things like the RPM
down a little on one ignition sometimes but be OK next time I check. I don't
really have problems but I get the feeling one could improve on the B8ES or
BR8ES depending if running resistor caps or not. I do believe in the idea
generally to stick to the proven path in aviation but in this case I think a
little deviation might not be a bad thing.
I am about to play with this idea anyway so others thoughts on the matter
might be an interesting discussion. If you find an NGK [ and I prefer the
brand in twostrokes ] plug chart you can work out a plug type for yourself
that you think would be good. You then look through the price list and see
if such a plug is offered. OK I have come up with two ideas I like. They are
B8EVX and B8ET basically. Now "B" means 14mm thread. "8" is the heat range
we want. "E" is 3/4" reach that we also want. If we put "R" after the "B" it
merely becomes a resistor plug for radio interference basically.
Now in my first choice B8EVX the "V" means fine wire gold palladium centre
electrode. This should result in more consistent firing and less fouling.
The "X" tells us it is a booster gap plug which allows the voltage to build
higher before the spark jumps the electrode gap. This is ideal with CDI and
for a twostroke which is a bit harder mixture to fire than straight fuel
especially starting or low RPM's.
With B8ET the "T" means 3 ground electrodes. I must admit to not playing
with this idea in a twostroke but the idea appeals to me to try because I
used the idea in a warm Chevy ski boat and it really improved idle
considerably. I've also owned a few Alfa Romeo cars and they used Golden
Lodge plugs with 4 ground electrodes. You could put in the equivalent
Champion plug with standard configeration electrodes and the motor
definitely wasn't as sweet.
So both directions interest me. If anyone wants to comment or try my idea
please feel free. I'll be interested in all feed back and if you do try my
idea and are pleased with the result you are very welcome.
Rex.
PS
one source of supply in GB could not supply B8ET only BR8ET and do check
prices they vary dramatically.
rexjan@bigpond.com
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Broken rudder hinge |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Floran Higgins" <CliffH@outdrs.net>
I do not have the slipper clutch.
I installed the reinforcements to the motor mount when I installed th 912S
engine.
During the last annual inspection in March, we found a crack in the motor
mount and had to remove the engine to repair it.
Floran H.
----- Original Message -----
From: <KITFOXPILOT@att.net>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Broken rudder hinge
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: KITFOXPILOT@att.net
>
>
> -------------- Original message from "Floran Higgins" : --------------
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Floran Higgins"
> >
> > I have a 1993 Model 4 Speedster. It has four rod end bearings threaded
into the
> > vertical fin that the rudder is hinged to. During preflight this morning
I
> > discovered that two of the four rod end bearings had sheared off at the
> > beginning of the threads.
> > Total time on the aircraft is 891 hrs.
> > I don't have any idea why these rod end bearings sheared off. I did not
build
> > this airplane, but I have flown it about 500 hrs since I bought it. It
has never
> > been abused since I have had it.
> > It might be that the shaking the airframe gets when the 912S engine is
started
> > is causing the problem.
> > This might be something other people might want to check.
> > Floran H.
> > Hello,
>
> I have a Model IV, 1200 with a 912S! I just recently sent my gear-box off
to Lockwood to have the slipper clutch installed. Does your 912S have this
update? I was told the the update helps limit the vibration on start up and
shut down. Also updated the weldment due to 912S power. Hope to hear from
you.
>
> Ray
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> <!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
> <style type='text/css'>
> p {
> margin: 0px;
> }
> </style>
>
> <!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
>
>
> -------------- Original message from "Floran Higgins"
<CLIFFH@OUTDRS.NET>: --------------
>
> -- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Floran Higgins" <CLIFFH@OUTDRS.NET>
>
> I have a 1993 Model 4 Speedster. It has four rod end bearings threaded
into the
> vertical fin that the rudder is hinged to. During preflight this morning
I
> discovered that two of the four rod end bearings had sheared off at the
> beginning of the threads.
> Total time on the aircraft is 891 hrs.
> I don't have any idea why these rod end bearings sheared off. I did not
build
> this airplane, but I have flown it about 500 hrs since I bought it. It
has never
> been abused since I have had it.
> It might be that the shaking the airframe gets when the 912S engine is
started
> is causing the problem.
> This might be something other people might want to check.
> Floran H.
> Hello,
>
>
> I have a Model IV, 1200 with a 912S! I just recently sent my gear-box off
to Lockwood to have the slipper clutch installed. Does your 912S have this
update? I was told the the update helpslimit thevibration on start up and
shut down. Also updated the weldment due to 912S power. Hope to hear from
you.
>
>
> Ray
>
> se Digests: http://www.matronics.com/digest/kitfox-list
>
>
> <!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Broken rudder hinge |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Floran Higgins" <CliffH@outdrs.net>
If I was just building the airplane, I would put in larger threaded pipes
into the vertical fin and replace these 3/16 rod end bearings with 1/4 in
ones.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Unternaehrer" <shilohcom@c-magic.com>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Broken rudder hinge
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob Unternaehrer"
<shilohcom@c-magic.com>
>
> Floran,,, Good to know. I'm rebuilding my Vertical Stab and rudder to the
> taller one with the rod end bearings, so will watch them. There are two
> good test beds for fatigueing parts.... A helicopter and you mentioned the
> other one. Bob U.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Floran Higgins" <CliffH@outdrs.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Broken rudder hinge
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Floran Higgins" <CliffH@outdrs.net>
> >
> > I have a 1993 Model 4 Speedster. It has four rod end bearings threaded
> into the vertical fin that the rudder is hinged to. During preflight this
> morning I discovered that two of the four rod end bearings had sheared off
> at the beginning of the threads.
> > Total time on the aircraft is 891 hrs.
> > I don't have any idea why these rod end bearings sheared off. I did not
> build this airplane, but I have flown it about 500 hrs since I bought it.
It
> has never been abused since I have had it.
> > It might be that the shaking the airframe gets when the 912S engine is
> started is causing the problem.
> > This might be something other people might want to check.
> > Floran H.
> >
> >
> > ---
> >
> >
>
> ---
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Broken rudder hinge |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 8/14/04 7:43:28 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
CliffH@outdrs.net writes:
> If I was just building the airplane, I would put in larger threaded pipes
> into the vertical fin and replace these 3/16 rod end bearings with 1/4 in
> ones.
>
I have a 95 (September) Classic IV. I will check but think the rudder rod
end threads are already 1/4". Am I wrong? The only place there are 3/16" rod
end threads are in the horiz stabilizer support rods (another problem area).
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: I experienced a slight miss in my 582 engine |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 8/14/04 7:26:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rexjan@bigpond.com writes:
>
> Hi ! Don, you seem a bit interested in plugs so I'd like to run something
> past you and everyone else for that matter
>
Rex,
I'm going to same your post as a good research document. I might just
follow your lead. Keep us posted on the results.
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Broken rudder hinge |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John E. King " <kingjohn@erols.com>
Floran,
Have never had this happen on my Model IV and it has over 1200 hours on
it. I wonder if the vertical fin and rudder are in vertical alignment.
If one of them was bent relative to the other, then that would subject
the end rods to excessive forces when the rudder is moved.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
Floran Higgins wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Floran Higgins" <CliffH@outdrs.net>
>
> I have a 1993 Model 4 Speedster. It has four rod end bearings threaded into the
vertical fin that the rudder is hinged to. During preflight this morning I
discovered that two of the four rod end bearings had sheared off at the beginning
of the threads.
>Total time on the aircraft is 891 hrs.
>I don't have any idea why these rod end bearings sheared off. I did not build
this airplane, but I have flown it about 500 hrs since I bought it. It has never
been abused since I have had it.
>It might be that the shaking the airframe gets when the 912S engine is started
is causing the problem.
>This might be something other people might want to check.
>Floran H.
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Broken rudder hinge |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Floran,
You might be able to narow down the cause further if
you consider which rod ends broke. 2 in a row? Top,
bottom, or middle?
Just an idea.
Glad you had 2 left....
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Floran Higgins <CliffH@outdrs.net> wrote:
> I have a 1993 Model 4 Speedster. It has four rod
> end bearings threaded into the vertical fin that the
> rudder is hinged to. During preflight this morning I
> discovered that two of the four rod end bearings had
> sheared off at the beginning of the threads.
> Total time on the aircraft is 891 hrs.
> I don't have any idea why these rod end bearings
> sheared off. I did not build this airplane, but I
> have flown it about 500 hrs since I bought it. It
> has never been abused since I have had it.
> It might be that the shaking the airframe gets when
> the 912S engine is started is causing the problem.
> This might be something other people might want to
> check.
> Floran H.
__________________________________
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Bulging header tank |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: kurt schrader <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
Hi Bob,
I might not be describing the joints properly as
"tabs". Only the tabs are welded. If I cut them off,
the tank would fall apart.
I origionally had 1/2" overlap as part of the tank,
like Tom's appeared to me. This welder wanted all the
overlap on the outside of the tank's main surfaces.
Now the top and bottom extend past the tank joint by
1/2" vertically. The sides extend aft past the back
by 1/2" too. These extensions or tabs are what he
actually welded. I don't like it as much, but he is
considered the best thin skin welder locally.
Overall, it might have cost me 1 qt and I lost another
qt of capacity due to working around my seatbelt
attachment mod and header tank sight gauge mod, which
narrowed the sides.
The tabs do seem to stiffen the tank a little,
especially the bottom. But in keeping with the title
"buldging header tank", my tank gives a good clunk as
it oil-cans when the tank is drained or filled about
1/2 capacity. Secondary low fuel indicator? :-)
Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
--- Bob Unternaehrer <shilohcom@c-magic.com> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bob
> Unternaehrer" <shilohcom@c-magic.com>
>
> You could have made the tanks the size you wanted to
> and cut them off after welding.
Bob U.
__________________________________
Message 22
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| Subject: | Broken rudder hinge |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Shane Sather" <jeffery@polarnet.ca>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shane Sather" <jeffery@polarnet.ca>
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Broken rudder hinge
> Last week during a pre-flight I noticed that the top hinge of the rudder
was
> loose. The nut had backed off a bit. The others were fine. I solution may
be
> just some Locktight applied to the threads. One thing though is sure helps
> reinforce the habit of doing a real pre-flight check every time.
>
> Ps I also have the 912s
>
> Arcticfox on floats
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Floran Higgins" <CliffH@outdrs.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2004 2:50 PM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Broken rudder hinge
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Floran Higgins" <CliffH@outdrs.net>
> >
> > I have a 1993 Model 4 Speedster. It has four rod end bearings threaded
> into the vertical fin that the rudder is hinged to. During preflight this
> morning I discovered that two of the four rod end bearings had sheared off
> at the beginning of the threads.
> > Total time on the aircraft is 891 hrs.
> > I don't have any idea why these rod end bearings sheared off. I did not
> build this airplane, but I have flown it about 500 hrs since I bought it.
It
> has never been abused since I have had it.
> > It might be that the shaking the airframe gets when the 912S engine is
> started is causing the problem.
> > This might be something other people might want to check.
> > Floran H.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: My fuel tank spring loaded drain valve continues to drip |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "jimshumaker" <jimshumaker@sbcglobal.net>
Because water in the wing tanks may be below the level of the wing drain
tube during preflight. After take off the water can then slosh into the
header tank and then into the fuel line. I just drained my wing tanks
yesterday and was surprized to find this. I drained out a full sample tube
of fuel and have not yet emptied the wing tank.
Jim Shumaker
. I always check for water there. IT`s the lowest point in the fuel system
and thats where the water should end up.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
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