Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:29 AM - Re: Fairnings - Was Speedster Vertical Stab (Fox5flyer)
2. 03:40 AM - Re: ivo adjustable prop on nsi engine? (Fox5flyer)
3. 03:48 AM - Re: More Rad Scoop testing :-) (Fox5flyer)
4. 05:37 AM - Re: Speedster vertical stab (Lynn Matteson)
5. 05:40 AM - Re: I mentioned previously that I had fitted a Skystar Rad scoop... (Gary Algate)
6. 05:41 AM - Re: Knight Aircraft Upholstery/Interiors (Chuck & Vicki Tippett)
7. 05:42 AM - Re: Ok, maybe I'm trying to do something that WILL cause me fits later on, (Gary Algate)
8. 05:45 AM - Re: I mentioned previously that I had fitted a Skystar Rad scoop to my Lite2/582 (Gary Algate)
9. 06:14 AM - Re: - Was Speedster Vertical Stab now horiz fairing (Paul)
10. 07:17 AM - Re: ivo adjustable prop on nsi engine? (Rick)
11. 08:18 AM - Re: Re: - Was Speedster Vertical Stab now horiz fairing (Lynn Matteson)
12. 08:48 AM - Re: Fairnings - Was Speedster Vertical Stab (Joel Mapes)
13. 08:50 AM - Rough running 912ULS at criose, maybe I can help (Clint Bazzill)
14. 09:06 AM - Re: Search for building supplies (Jim Carriere)
15. 12:45 PM - Re: Search for building supplies (Lynn Matteson)
16. 01:16 PM - Re: Re: - Was Speedster Vertical Stab now horiz (Paul)
17. 01:39 PM - Alberta my love (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
18. 02:08 PM - Re: Alberta my love (Gary Algate)
19. 02:35 PM - Re: Alberta my love (Michel Verheughe)
20. 02:53 PM - Re: Alberta my love (Ron)
21. 02:54 PM - Re: Alberta my love (Jose M. Toro)
22. 02:57 PM - Re: Stolen Rotax 912 ULS Engine (Jeffrey Puls)
23. 03:08 PM - Re: Alberta my love (Larry Huntley)
24. 03:11 PM - Re: Alberta my love (John Oakley)
25. 03:37 PM - Re: Alberta my love (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
26. 03:59 PM - Re: Alberta my love (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
27. 04:23 PM - Re: Alberta my love (Torgeir Mortensen)
28. 04:46 PM - Re: Alberta my love (AlbertaIV@aol.com)
29. 05:00 PM - Re: Stolen Rotax 912 ULS Engine (RICHARD HUTSON)
30. 05:00 PM - Re: Alberta my love (John King)
31. 05:19 PM - Re: Alberta my love (Rick)
32. 05:20 PM - Re: Alberta my love (Rick)
33. 05:26 PM - Re: Alberta my love (Bruce Harrington)
34. 05:50 PM - Re: Alberta my love (John King)
35. 07:27 PM - Re: Alberta my love (Jerry Liles)
36. 07:54 PM - Re: Alberta my love (Marc Arseneault)
37. 08:16 PM - Re: Stolen Rotax 912 ULS Engine (Dcecil3@aol.com)
38. 08:48 PM - Re: Alberta my love (dwight purdy)
39. 09:48 PM - Re: Stolen Rotax 912 ULS Engine (KITFOXPILOT@att.net)
40. 10:01 PM - Wood Support for 1-piece Window on Kitfox 5 ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fairnings - Was Speedster Vertical Stab |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
Absolutely agreed Lowell and well said. One cannot clean up the
aerodynamics of these airplanes too much. Everything I faired (no matter
how small) on my 890lb S5 gave additional speed benefit which translated to
efficiency and fuel consumption. I can still fly at 75mph if I want, but
110 mph at 4gph translates to economy (and reduced engine wear) and at the
prices of fuel combined with my limited income, economy and efficiency rule.
Darrel
> One additional thought about gap seals fairings etc.
>
> Most of these modifications are intended to increase cruise speeds. In
this they are quite successful, but the recent trip - flight of eight from
California to Oshkosh brings up another benefit. One of our group flies a
Rans with a 20 gallon tank. Obviously his range dictated to a large extent
our leg range - that an our ?? oz. bladders. At most fuel stops my fuel
consumption was watched pretty closely because of an early trip when I took
7.7 gallons for the flight from My airport to the departure airport - about
20 miles then the three hour flight to Winnemucca, NV. The next lowest top
off was 11 gallons.
>
> The Rans pilot was a bit concerned near the end of one leg with his
reserves and after fueling, he kicked the ground after seeing my top off
total. The most fuel I ever purchased on this trip was 15.7 gallons. Most
of my fuelings were in the 9-11 gallon range.
>
> In short, I wouldn't hesitate for a minute to airfoil the vertical stab.-
rudder, or do any other fairing. After 600 hours with a lot of it in loose
formation with other Model IVs all powered with Rotax 912s, my experience
suggests that it has benefits in speed, if you want it, fuel economy/range,
if you want that and even climb as my Model IV- heavy, at least in my
circle, has shown. Drag will hurt in all areas.
>
> Lowell
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: ivo adjustable prop on nsi engine? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
I can't really speak for the IVO Eric, but the NSI electric prop (CAP) was
specifically designed for the NSI engine. I love mine and can't fault it at
all. It's worked perfectly from the beginning. Their track record isn't
perfect, but it's pretty darn good and there's a lot of them out there
working fine. As for price, I don't know what they cost these days, but one
definitely gets what one pays for. There are several others out there also,
including Proplink that you might want to consider. However, IVO's track
record in the past few years seems to be pretty good and I think it's the
most inexpensive. Let us know what you finally decide on.
Darrel
> Hi all,
> I'm still trying to research my prop options on a model IV-1200 with
> nsi ea-81 engine. I started looking at the IVO in-flight adjustable prop.
Has anyone had any experience running an IVO in-flight adjustable on an
EA-81 engine.
>
> Thanks for any input or advice.
> Eric
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: More Rad Scoop testing :-) |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
snip...
> I flew again today and tried prolonged climbs on a
> warmer day, but had to cut it short for high gear box
> temps.
...snip
> Kurt S. S-5/NSI turbo
Kurt, what were your gear box temps? Mine rarely get above 135f, even on
long climbs. You may want to drain your oil and have a look at it.
Darrel
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Speedster vertical stab |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
I just discovered sportflight.com......are there any other sites
dedicated to building our 'foxes? At that site I discovered Don's
Builders Newsletter, and have contacted him. Are there any other sites,
or sources of pictures, information, etc., that I should/could know
about? I'm a babe in the woods, folks....help get this rookie started!
Pictures are especially helpful to me, drawings, too.
Lynn
On Wednesday, September 1, 2004, at 08:56 PM, Lowell Fitt wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Lowell Fitt" <lcfitt@inreach.com>
>
> I engineered my airfoil much like Ted did, but by simply deciding
> what I
> needed for the gap closure and then clamping a piece of aluminum bar
> on the
> leading and trailing edges of the rudder and stabilizer and tracing
> for the
> foam ribs. The gap closure is of the 1/4" foam also and the similar
> gap
> closure of the horizontal stab - elevator can be seen at:
> http://www.sportflight.com/cgi-bin/
> uploader.pl?action=view&epoch=1041348095
>
> Keep in mind that
> the hinging of the rudder makes the gap seal not so much of an
> engineering
> nightmare.
>
>
> The photos show at least part of the vertical gap seal - total width
> 1.25",
> and I have pegged the speedo at 120 without a hint of flutter, which
> was a
> testing priority during the first 40 hours.
>
> Lowell
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "flier" <FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>; <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Speedster vertical stab
>
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "flier" <FLIER@sbcglobal.net>
>>
>> I've basically got a IV longwing 912 with all the
>> Speedster stuff. CG is tail biased. My tail ribs
>> are about half the profile of the Speedster ribs.
>> Without the longer post bushings I did that to get
>> the rudder spar gap seal radius right and to have a
>> nice flowing airfoil profile from the front of the
>> vert stab back across the rudder. My rudder spar
>> radius is balsa and my stab and rudder ribs are ply.
>> The channel that the rudder radius fits in is made of
>> two pieces of aluminum angle on a ply face bonded to
>> the back of the stab spar. Altogether it added just
>> a couple of pounds.
>>
>> Ted
>>
>>
>> --- Original Message ---
>> From: Paul <pwilson@climber.org>
>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Speedster vertical stab
>>
>>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Paul
>> <pwilson@climber.org>
>>>
>>> Fits later - no way - IMO.
>>> The question really is why wouldnt a Speedster have
>> an issue. A M4 long wing 912 with all the speedster
>> stuff probably would have a fwd cg issue not an aft
>> one. A M4 short wing 912 with speedster stuff would
>> be the same as a factory Speedster. Ribblet (sp) did
>> not specify the airfoil tail surfaces without a good
>> reason. Who knows his reasons. Handling?
>>> Cg wise with an engine lighter than a 912 then an
>> aft cg might be an issue. So move stuff forward and
>> compensate.
>>> But lighter is always a goal. Not sure if foam is
>> lighter than plywood with lightening holes??
>>>
>>> Paul
>>> ===========
>>> At 10:36 PM -0400 8/31/04, Lynn Matteson wrote:
>>>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson
>> <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>>>>
>>>> Ok, maybe I'm trying to do something that WILL
>> cause me fits later on,
>>>> when it comes to balance. But what about Ron's (N55
>> KF) suggestion that
>>>> the tail will fishtail if left flat? I'm sure there
>> are a bunch of
>>>> "flat" verticals out there...how are yours
>> handling? I like the looks
>>>> of the airfoiled verticals, but it IS a lot of work
>> at this stage of
>>>> building (rudder is now flat and covered, and has
>> been Poly-sprayed),
>>>> and I really could spend my time doing unfinished
>> work instead of
>>>> undoing other's work (recall that I'm the 4th owner
>> of this still VERY
>>>> unfinished plane).
>>>> Lynn
>>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>>
>>> _-
>> ======================================================
>> ==================
>> Contributions
>> any other
>> Forums.
>>> _-
>> ======================================================
>> ==================
>>> _-
>> ======================================================
>> ==================
>> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
>> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kitfox-List.htm
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>> list
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>> _-
>> ======================================================
>> ==================
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | I mentioned previously that I had fitted a Skystar Rad |
scoop...
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
Hello Don,
I also found that I needed the rad lowered almost 2" to get the temps under
control. Another nice thing about the scoop is you can mount the rad only 1"
lower and then angle the scoop down further at the front to clear the dead
air at the rear of the cowl lip. It looks a lot nicer this way
GaryA
Lite2/582
look now.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Rex,
I too have the Classic IV w/582. I experimented with my radiator and
found that lowering the radiator so the 2" cowl outlet blows over the top of
the
radiator fixes the high temp problem. My fix was temporary but worked like
a
champ. I now have it back where is originally was and the high heat problem
is back. I plan to get back on the job and relocate it where it works.
Also,
I did not see any difference with the rad lowered to that point. Adding a
scoop (I don't have) would also help.
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
[Gary Algate] <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Knight Aircraft Upholstery/Interiors |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Chuck & Vicki Tippett" <planecrazy@erols.com>
Good Morning
I have a Kitfox Model II and also a Model IV I would like to
see about the cost of the seats for these 2 planes in Blue . I would also
need the cover behind the seats as well.
Sincerally
Chuck Tippett
( Virginia ) 20187
-------Original Message-------
From: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Subject: Kitfox-List: Knight Aircraft Upholstery/Interiors
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Sam Knight <knightair@lv.rmci.net>
Kitfox Builders:
I have been in the upholstery business for 30 years and have been making
upholstery products for kitplanes for 18 years. I have interior kits
available for the Model I, Model II, Model III, Model IV, Lite (Squared),
Series 5, Series 6, Vixen, and the Ultralight plus Sky Raider Ultralight. I
also have cabin covers and other items. A list of other kitplane interior
products available upon request.
For more information, call Knight Aircraft Interiors, Inc., at (702)
207-6681 or e mail me at knightair@lv.rmci.net. If you e-mail for
information, please mention either "Knight" or "Upholstery" in your
reference line so I can give your request my immediate attention. Photos
available upon request.
Sincerely,
KNIGHT AIRCRAFT INTERIORS, INC.
"Fly by Knight" Upholstery Products
Sam Knight
Message 7
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| Subject: | Ok, maybe I'm trying to do something that WILL cause |
me fits later on,
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
I think the main reason for the offset elevators is to maintain a positive
loading on it all times and prevent flutter.
Gary A
Lite2/582
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I believe it was stated to stop a dead spot at neutral setting
and pitch wander in cruise.
Rex Shaw
Australia.
rexjan@bigpond.com
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Message 8
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| Subject: | I mentioned previously that I had fitted a Skystar Rad |
scoop to my Lite2/582
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
Hello Rex
I see that you are in Australia - I am Australian (born in Broken Hill) and
moved to Canada with my family 11 years ago.
I wouldn't hesitate to fit the scoop if I was you as it really only takes a
few hours and there are some positive gains.
Once I find my digital camera I'll post some photos.
Regards
GaryA
Lite2/582
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Thanks for posting all of this detail Gary. I have a Classic IV
Speedster/582 and I have a scoop moulding but it has never been fitted as
yet. So your very complete description will no doubt be very helpfull.
I had looked at the situation and was worried how it would work because on
the left side underneath the cowl hangs about 2" low to let the hot air out
under the plane. I think I had decided it was too hard, but I might take
another look now.
Rex Shaw
Australia.
rexjan@bigpond.com
[Gary Algate] <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: - Was Speedster Vertical Stab now horiz fairing |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Paul <pwilson@climber.org>
Let me change the subject a bit. Has any body done the horizontal like the speedster
vertical? I looked at doing it but gave up as it was taking to much time
to deal with the hinge and the separation. I was looking at a modified airfoil,
not a book foil. So now I have the standard foil with the big gap. Sure looks
bad from an aero perspective.
Paul
Message 10
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| Subject: | ivo adjustable prop on nsi engine? |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
I use and would recomend the NSI CAP. It is made for the EA-81 and the
proper gear ratio can be achieved for the prop you intend to use. The Warp
blades work well for me and the companies both stand behind their products.
Rick EA-81 Turbo CAP 140
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fox5flyer
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: ivo adjustable prop on nsi engine?
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Fox5flyer" <morid@northland.lib.mi.us>
I can't really speak for the IVO Eric, but the NSI electric prop (CAP) was
specifically designed for the NSI engine. I love mine and can't fault it at
all. It's worked perfectly from the beginning. Their track record isn't
perfect, but it's pretty darn good and there's a lot of them out there
working fine. As for price, I don't know what they cost these days, but one
definitely gets what one pays for. There are several others out there also,
including Proplink that you might want to consider. However, IVO's track
record in the past few years seems to be pretty good and I think it's the
most inexpensive. Let us know what you finally decide on.
Darrel
> Hi all,
> I'm still trying to research my prop options on a model IV-1200 with
> nsi ea-81 engine. I started looking at the IVO in-flight adjustable prop.
Has anyone had any experience running an IVO in-flight adjustable on an
EA-81 engine.
>
> Thanks for any input or advice.
> Eric
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: - Was Speedster Vertical Stab now horiz fairing |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
Lowell sent out this address last night:
http://www.sportflight.com/cgi-bin/
uploader.pl?action=view&epoch=1041348095
What is a "book foil"? Do you mean like a "textbook" or a "properly
engineered" airfoil?
Lynn
On Thursday, September 2, 2004, at 09:21 AM, Paul wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Paul <pwilson@climber.org>
>
> Let me change the subject a bit. Has any body done the horizontal like
> the speedster vertical? I looked at doing it but gave up as it was
> taking to much time to deal with the hinge and the separation. I was
> looking at a modified airfoil, not a book foil. So now I have the
> standard foil with the big gap. Sure looks bad from an aero
> perspective.
> Paul
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Fairnings - Was Speedster Vertical Stab |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Joel Mapes" <Joel.Mapes@roxio.com>
Brian,
I've been following this thread r.e. rudder airfoil with interest. I'm
building a 5 on amphib floats and figure that with all the float induced
drag that gap seals etc. won't make much difference. The rudder
centering could be an issue however, as rudder effectiveness is a
concern with floats. What do you think?
Joel Mapes
Model 5 912
Aerocomp amphibs
Message 13
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| Subject: | Rough running 912ULS at criose, maybe I can help |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Clint Bazzill" <clint_bazzill@hotmail.com>
I have been reading about a rough running engine on cruise. I have been flying
behind a 912ULS for a very long time. It runs so great that I had forgotten the
troubles that I had in the early days.
I flew behing a 912UL and loved the engine, had it over 18,000 feet. Monitored
egt's etc and found that the Bing carbs leaned up to about 10,000 feet or so and
then just flattened out. Which is ok as bigest change is at lower altitudes.
With the new engine, I was still using old landing gear and noticed black specks
on landing gear. I thought it was probably from an rich running engine, but
the engine being so new, did not want to do much except let the engine break
in a little more. When on a trip from Calif to Wis, Minn and then to Colorado
(Leadville) we had a problem with the engine not running smoothly at some higher
altitudes. We had an inflight adjustable IVO but had a hard time at some altitudes,
trying to find a combination of rpm and manifold pressure to get rid
of that engine miss.
I was pretty sure it was a rich mixture as egt's were pretty low as compared to
my 912UL. After returning from long cross country trip, call Lockwood and talked
with them and they agreed that it sounded like too rich of mixture. I changed
the jet positions, I think that was one notch down. The EGT's when up about
100 to 120 degrees and the enging is just as smooth as can be, all altitutes
up to 14,000 feet.
I also have an older Model IV without the gussets on engine mount,no breaks, very
smooth start ups and shut downs. Developed a procedure that works perfect.
Did not change the spacers in engine mounts, do not want the engine coupled that
tightly to the airframe. You can contact me off line or call me. I love the
912ULS but had to work out a few little bugs. Clint (650) 712-1802 Half Moon
Bay, Califr
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Search for building supplies |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Carriere <jimcarriere@yahoo.com>
Yes, it is what Skystar supplies with the kits now.
Sorry about the long delay, I get the digest version.
The other day I mixed up just a bit of extra and had no immediate
use for the excess. The manual says lower temperatures will greatly
reduce curing time, so I figured, why not, I'll put this in my
freezer (no, I'm not married) and use it tomorrow. Well, the stuff
still hardens when it is cold, this experiment answers that
question.
Jim in NW Florida
S7 in progress
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson
> <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>
> Is this a Skystar-supplied adhesive?
> Lynn
> On Wednesday, September 1, 2004, at 04:18 AM, Jim Carriere wrote:
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Carriere
> <jimcarriere@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Yep-
> > my S7 kit uses Loctite 9460 Hysol as structural adhesive. I've
__________________________________
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Search for building supplies |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
On Thursday, September 2, 2004, at 12:02 PM, Jim Carriere wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jim Carriere <jimcarriere@yahoo.com>
>
> Yes, it is what Skystar supplies with the kits now.
>
> Sorry about the long delay, I get the digest version.
>
No problem, Jim...I forgot I had asked the question. : )
Lynn
(still gathering info prior to making an order)
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: - Was Speedster Vertical Stab now horiz |
fairing
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Paul <pwilson@climber.org> fairing
Lynn,
Yes, I mean I gave up on using a standard airfoil in the NACA text book. They came
out too thick and heavy. But the real issue was the gap because the parts
are so far apart.
Lowell,
Did your design avoid any deflection of the surfaces?
Do they come in contact?
I guess my effort still used too thick of a foil because I always got interference.
Then I gave up.
Where can we get the foam material?
Thanks, Paul
================
At 11:15 AM -0400 9/2/04, Lynn Matteson wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>
>Lowell sent out this address last night:
>
>http://www.sportflight.com/cgi-bin/uploader.pl?action=view&epoch=1041348095
>
>What is a "book foil"? Do you mean like a "textbook" or a "properly
>engineered" airfoil?
>Lynn
>On Thursday, September 2, 2004, at 09:21 AM, Paul wrote:
>
>> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: Paul <pwilson@climber.org>
>>
>> Let me change the subject a bit. Has any body done the horizontal like
>> the speedster vertical? I looked at doing it but gave up as it was
>> taking to much time to deal with the hinge and the separation. I was
>> looking at a modified airfoil, not a book foil. So now I have the
>> standard foil with the big gap. Sure looks bad from an aero
>> perspective.
> > Paul
--
Message 17
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
I had almost decided to put Alberta on the market so I went to the
airport today to start performing a couple repairs to put her in ship-shape
condition and ready for auction block. One is replacing the shrunk tapes on the
wing
tops and the other is to concur the 582 overheat problem during climb. Well,
the more I rubbed my hands across here lovely back the more I decided I
couldn't part with such beauty.
I sat down in front of her prop and starred at the radiator for over an
hour. I had already lowered the rad once to below the engine outlet air
(about 4 inches). This will fix the problem but, I must say it quickly approaches
ugly.
I think I may have come up with another idea but need your opinions. I
want to cut off the 2"-3" protrusion on the bottom of the engine cowl that
provides cowl exhaust. Then fiberglass the bottom of the cowl so it is flush with
the belly all the way across. I believe it is the heat from the engine
exhausting directly into the rad causing the overheat during climb. More
important, that 2"-3" cowl exhaust protrusion is causing the cool air to be deflected
down and under the rad therefore placing 1/2 the rad in a void.
Here is where I need your opinions....I read somewhere a comment that
stated,
"For aerodynamic purposes, the best place to exhaust engine cowl air is on
the sides verses the bottom of a cowl" My thought is to provide a 3"X6"
(approximate) hole on each "SIDE" of the cowl (about 1/2 the way up from the bottom)
just fwd of the firewall. On the outside will be a reverse scoop to assist is
pulling the air out of the cowl. It would seem better to get the air out of
the middle of the sides than the bottom since this is adjacent to the muffler.
Not to mention the above statement I read concerning best location.
The only drawback that comes to mind is the possibility of getting bad
air into the cockpit by having the engine vents on the side. What other
comments do you guys have on this idea. Hurry up, I'm getting the itch to cut.
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 18
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate" <algate@attglobal.net>
Don
I don't understand why your temps are so hot. There are a couple of Kitfoxes
in my area and all have the 582 and standard rads. In each case lowering the
rad by 1-1/2" to 2" lowers the temps to the point where normal cruise is at
165 - 175 deg. The summer temps we see here are up to 90 degF Max.
Could there be something else that is causing your problems'
Gary
>>>>>>>>>>>> I sat down in front of her prop and starred at the radiator
for over an
hour. I had already lowered the rad once to below the engine outlet air
(about 4 inches). This will fix the problem but, I must say it quickly
approaches
ugly.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Alberta my love |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Michel Verheughe <michel@online.no>
AlbertaIV@aol.com wrote:
> the more I rubbed my hands across here lovely back the more I decided I
> couldn't part with such beauty.
I understand you so well, Don. In a children book a little prince is being told
by a fox that his rose is unique in the world for all he did for her. You guys,
who have built your planes, must feel something unique.
> Then fiberglass the bottom of the cowl so it is flush with
> the belly all the way across.
My model 3 is built like that, the cowl flush with the belly and my 582
radiator is about an inch lower than the belly. I never had problem of
overheating, even on a long climb in the summer. The maximum I get is about 170
F. Of course, Norwegian summers are not too hot.
Sorry, I can't advice you about the centre vs. side cowl exhaust, I don't know
enough about it. Good luck with your modifications.
Cheers,
Michel
do not archive
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Alberta my love |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron" <rliebmann@comcast.net>
I have high temps too. It goes up to 185 and stays there. I took my radiator
to a radiator shop for testing but I was told that all cooling lines were
open. My upcoming experiment will be to put my unused heater core in the
chin of my round cowlin such a way that it will not show from a side view
but it will accept air from straight on. It will be in series with the lower
radiator. I will do this at the end of good WX.
Ron N55KF
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 21
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|
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jose M. Toro" <jose_m_toro@yahoo.com>
You must remove all the air from the cooling system in the 582. That's the trick
Jose
Gary Algate <algate@attglobal.net> wrote:
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Algate"
Don
I don't understand why your temps are so hot. There are a couple of Kitfoxes
in my area and all have the 582 and standard rads. In each case lowering the
rad by 1-1/2" to 2" lowers the temps to the point where normal cruise is at
165 - 175 deg. The summer temps we see here are up to 90 degF Max.
Could there be something else that is causing your problems'
Gary
>>>>>>>>>>>> I sat down in front of her prop and starred at the radiator
for over an
hour. I had already lowered the rad once to below the engine outlet air
(about 4 inches). This will fix the problem but, I must say it quickly
approaches
ugly.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Jos M. Toro, P.E.
Computer Systems Validation Engineer
Eli-Lilly PR05
---------------------------------
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Stolen Rotax 912 ULS Engine |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
Gary,
Contact the officer in your department that is doing the follow up, not the
preliminary investigation. Ask him if he entered it in LEADS. LEADS is a
data system run by the FBI. Everybody uses it. Officers use it when they
run in to something suspicious and want run a serial number or something.
If the information is entered, they will get a hit, no matter where they
are. If your police department didn't enter it or they can't for some
reason, I'll enter it. Jeff Puls Columbus, Ohio Division of Police Classic
IV
> [Original Message]
> From: Gary Randall <gryfz450@hotmail.com>
> To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 8/31/2004 10:07:16 PM
> Subject: Kitfox-List: Stolen Rotax 912 ULS Engine
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Gary Randall" <gryfz450@hotmail.com>
>
> I just had my NEW Rotax 912 engine stolen. The serial # is 4427002.
Does
> anyone on the list know if there is a place I can report this engine
stolen
> that might help keep it from being sold?
> I have reported this to my local PD, I am just looking to put the word
out
> in our community.
> Thanks
> Gary Randall
> S7
> Aberdeen, WA
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Alberta my love |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Larry Huntley" <asq1@adelphia.net>
Good for you ,Don! I had a hard time thinking of you parting w/ your old
friend.
Send me a phone 3 sometime and we can talk about cooling. Phone is free for
me. Larry Huntley,Kitfox 4-1200, 370 hrs,EA81,Dundee,NY,USA
----- Original Message -----
From: <AlbertaIV@aol.com>
Subject: Kitfox-List: Alberta my love
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
> I had almost decided to put Alberta on the market so I went to the
> airport today to start performing a couple repairs to put her in
ship-shape
> condition and ready for auction block. One is replacing the shrunk tapes
on the wing
> tops and the other is to concur the 582 overheat problem during climb.
Well,
> the more I rubbed my hands across here lovely back the more I decided I
> couldn't part with such beauty.
> I sat down in front of her prop and starred at the radiator for over
an
> hour. I had already lowered the rad once to below the engine outlet air
> (about 4 inches). This will fix the problem but, I must say it quickly
approaches
> ugly.
> I think I may have come up with another idea but need your opinions.
I
> want to cut off the 2"-3" protrusion on the bottom of the engine cowl that
> provides cowl exhaust. Then fiberglass the bottom of the cowl so it is
flush with
> the belly all the way across. I believe it is the heat from the engine
> exhausting directly into the rad causing the overheat during climb. More
> important, that 2"-3" cowl exhaust protrusion is causing the cool air to
be deflected
> down and under the rad therefore placing 1/2 the rad in a void.
> Here is where I need your opinions....I read somewhere a comment that
> stated,
> "For aerodynamic purposes, the best place to exhaust engine cowl air is on
> the sides verses the bottom of a cowl" My thought is to provide a 3"X6"
> (approximate) hole on each "SIDE" of the cowl (about 1/2 the way up from
the bottom)
> just fwd of the firewall. On the outside will be a reverse scoop to
assist is
> pulling the air out of the cowl. It would seem better to get the air out
of
> the middle of the sides than the bottom since this is adjacent to the
muffler.
> Not to mention the above statement I read concerning best location.
> The only drawback that comes to mind is the possibility of getting bad
> air into the cockpit by having the engine vents on the side. What other
> comments do you guys have on this idea. Hurry up, I'm getting the itch to
cut.
>
> Don Smythe
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
Message 24
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Oakley" <joakley@ida.net>
Ok you guys, ( makes me sound like an expert)
lowering the rad into the air is not the only answer. yu need to channel air
into the rad and the out flow needs to be slightly larger than the inlet.
thlis will cause a vaccum of sorts and is really needed to work. I to had
the radiator out in the airstream and was seening heat. i install it in the
p-51 style fiberglass that skystar sold and instintly lost 40 degrees. I
believe that you need to do something of the same. I one thing, is 185
degrees really to hot.
John Oakley
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Alberta my love
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron" <rliebmann@comcast.net>
I have high temps too. It goes up to 185 and stays there. I took my radiator
to a radiator shop for testing but I was told that all cooling lines were
open. My upcoming experiment will be to put my unused heater core in the
chin of my round cowlin such a way that it will not show from a side view
but it will accept air from straight on. It will be in series with the lower
radiator. I will do this at the end of good WX.
Ron N55KF
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Alberta my love |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
Don
I don't understand why your temps are so hot. There are a couple of Kitfoxes
in my area and all have the 582 and standard rads. In each case lowering the
rad by 1-1/2" to 2" lowers the temps to the point where normal cruise is at
165 - 175 deg. The summer temps we see here are up to 90 degF Max.
Could there be something else that is causing your problems'
WOW!!!! I got all kind of comments but none addressed the possibility of
placing the cowl exhaust outlets on the "SIDE" of the cowl vice the bottom.
YES, I do know very well how to get all the air out of the system. I use a
tried and proven method to guarantee air free every time.
YES, I agree the air must be funneled into the rad with a small in and big
out (My proposal will do this)
YES, I know the Model III has a flat bottom cowl. I saw this on Glenn Hornes
M-III. Again, my suggestion to remove (cut out) the bottom cowl protrusion
(Classic IV) will take care of this obstruction. However, I still need to
provide cowl exhaust and am proposing "SIDE" vents.
High Temp: My temps only go beyond 180 during a climb at 90+ OAT's (will
usually occur around 300' AGL). My cruise temps are steady (summer/winter) at
165. BTW, as soon as my temps hit the EIS alarm of 180 during a climb, I pull
back the throttle and level off. Then step climb to altitude. I don't know
how far they would go beyond 180 but I don't allow the temps to seek their own
high. 180 is max and that's the law.
Now, what about the "SIDE" venting for the cowl exhaust if the bottom exhaust
were done away with.
Don Smythe
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Alberta my love |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
In a message dated 9/2/04 3:09:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time, asq1@adelphia.net
writes:
> Send me a phone 3 sometime and we can talk about cooling. Phone is free for
> me. Larry Huntley,Kitfox 4-1200, 370 hrs,EA81,Dundee,NY,USA
>
>
(804) 642-2508
Don Smythe
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Alberta my love |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Torgeir Mortensen <torgemor@online.no>
Hi Don,
I liked your idea about installing side vents, they are much better than
the bottom one, simply because of the "thermodynamics", as warm air always
climb up. The upper part of the cowl will always be hot, and there is
little circulation due to this fact. So, just go on, seal the bottom and
make the perfect thing. :)
Cutting such a hole need reinforcement doubler to compensate for the
cutout, very important.
This is a good modification, also the "physics" very much agree. :)
Glad you come to another decision about Alberta..
About the possible bad air, think this is much better, cause you'll notice
much faster any abnormality. Well, anything can be discussed-, and I'm
very much prepared for this one.......
Cheers
Torgeir.
On Thu, 2 Sep 2004 16:36:55 EDT, <AlbertaIV@aol.com> wrote:
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
> I had almost decided to put Alberta on the market so I went to the
> airport today to start performing a couple repairs to put her in
> ship-shape
> condition and ready for auction block. One is replacing the shrunk
> tapes on the wing
> tops and the other is to concur the 582 overheat problem during climb.
> Well,
> the more I rubbed my hands across here lovely back the more I decided I
> couldn't part with such beauty.
> I sat down in front of her prop and starred at the radiator for over
> an
> hour. I had already lowered the rad once to below the engine outlet air
> (about 4 inches). This will fix the problem but, I must say it quickly
> approaches
> ugly.
> I think I may have come up with another idea but need your
> opinions. I
> want to cut off the 2"-3" protrusion on the bottom of the engine cowl
> that
> provides cowl exhaust. Then fiberglass the bottom of the cowl so it is
> flush with
> the belly all the way across. I believe it is the heat from the engine
> exhausting directly into the rad causing the overheat during climb. More
> important, that 2"-3" cowl exhaust protrusion is causing the cool air to
> be deflected
> down and under the rad therefore placing 1/2 the rad in a void.
> Here is where I need your opinions....I read somewhere a comment that
> stated,
> "For aerodynamic purposes, the best place to exhaust engine cowl air is
> on
> the sides verses the bottom of a cowl" My thought is to provide a 3"X6"
> (approximate) hole on each "SIDE" of the cowl (about 1/2 the way up from
> the bottom)
> just fwd of the firewall. On the outside will be a reverse scoop to
> assist is
> pulling the air out of the cowl. It would seem better to get the air
> out of
> the middle of the sides than the bottom since this is adjacent to the
> muffler.
> Not to mention the above statement I read concerning best location.
> The only drawback that comes to mind is the possibility of getting
> bad
> air into the cockpit by having the engine vents on the side. What other
> comments do you guys have on this idea. Hurry up, I'm getting the itch
> to cut.
>
> Don Smythe
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
--
Using M2, Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/m2/
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Alberta my love |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
> Cutting such a hole need reinforcement doubler to compensate for the
> cutout, very important.
>
> This is a good modification, also the "physics" very much agree. :)
>
About the possible bad air, think this is much better, cause you'll notice
>
> much faster any abnormality. Well, anything can be discussed-, and I'm
> very much prepared for this one.......
> Cheers
> Torgeir.
>
Torger,
I'm getting out my cutting tools as we speak. I always appreciate you
comments and knowledge on most situation. Please re-send your thoughts on the
bad air. I didn't quite understand.
BTW, don't worry about reinforcement. I'm a reinforcement fool. That's
why Alberta is called Fat Alberta.
Don Smith
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Stolen Rotax 912 ULS Engine |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "RICHARD HUTSON" <rhutson@midsouth.rr.com>
Jeff is this system part of NCIC? My wife is in charge of the
communications division of a police dept. she is also the Primary TAC and
she has never heard of it. Every thing she uses is NCIC based.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Stolen Rotax 912 ULS Engine
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" <pulsair@mindspring.com>
>
> Gary,
> Contact the officer in your department that is doing the follow up, not
> the
> preliminary investigation. Ask him if he entered it in LEADS. LEADS is a
> data system run by the FBI. Everybody uses it. Officers use it when they
> run in to something suspicious and want run a serial number or something.
> If the information is entered, they will get a hit, no matter where they
> are. If your police department didn't enter it or they can't for some
> reason, I'll enter it. Jeff Puls Columbus, Ohio Division of Police Classic
> IV
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Alberta my love |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
Don,
The early Avids (I think it was the Model B) had a big bubble on one
side of the cowl similar to what you described. I am not sure but I
think the radiator was located there. Maybe some of the Avid pilots can
go into more of a description. It was only on one side though and I
forgot which side. It may be a function of prop wash. Remember you
heard it here first.
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
AlbertaIV@aol.com wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com
>
>Don
>
>I don't understand why your temps are so hot. There are a couple of Kitfoxes
>in my area and all have the 582 and standard rads. In each case lowering the
>rad by 1-1/2" to 2" lowers the temps to the point where normal cruise is at
>165 - 175 deg. The summer temps we see here are up to 90 degF Max.
>
>Could there be something else that is causing your problems'
>
>
>WOW!!!! I got all kind of comments but none addressed the possibility of
>placing the cowl exhaust outlets on the "SIDE" of the cowl vice the bottom.
>
>YES, I do know very well how to get all the air out of the system. I use a
>tried and proven method to guarantee air free every time.
>
>YES, I agree the air must be funneled into the rad with a small in and big
>out (My proposal will do this)
>
>YES, I know the Model III has a flat bottom cowl. I saw this on Glenn Hornes
>M-III. Again, my suggestion to remove (cut out) the bottom cowl protrusion
>(Classic IV) will take care of this obstruction. However, I still need to
>provide cowl exhaust and am proposing "SIDE" vents.
>
>High Temp: My temps only go beyond 180 during a climb at 90+ OAT's (will
>usually occur around 300' AGL). My cruise temps are steady (summer/winter) at
>165. BTW, as soon as my temps hit the EIS alarm of 180 during a climb, I pull
>back the throttle and level off. Then step climb to altitude. I don't know
>how far they would go beyond 180 but I don't allow the temps to seek their own
>high. 180 is max and that's the law.
>
>Now, what about the "SIDE" venting for the cowl exhaust if the bottom exhaust
>were done away with.
>
>Don Smythe
>
>
>_
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
I have found that taxi time is the real test. Most positions will work
fairly well in climb and fine in cruise. A 100F degree day and some hold
time can be a big issue. Could require step climbing if in a really poor
location. The problem on the ground is getting enough air through the
radiator at taxi/idle speeds. I am experimenting with a new cooling system
set up using waterless coolant and an additional electric driven water pump.
The pump can be used in many ways. I was primarily concerned with
circulating water through the turbo after shut down, but I am finding more
and more benefits of both the pump and the new technology waterless coolant.
A couple of real interesting facts that may interest the other water cooled
engine users. A 27.5 percent more heat transfer, a 2 too 7 lbs. pressure
cap, vapor free in the cooling jackets, no cylinder liner erosion from heat
cavitations, here is the big one...boiling point 375F degrees. I like the
last one a lot. I send some pics when the install is done and keep everyone
posted when the system is put to the test. And no I dont sell the stuff.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Oakley
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Alberta my love
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "John Oakley" <joakley@ida.net>
Ok you guys, ( makes me sound like an expert)
lowering the rad into the air is not the only answer. yu need to channel air
into the rad and the out flow needs to be slightly larger than the inlet.
thlis will cause a vaccum of sorts and is really needed to work. I to had
the radiator out in the airstream and was seening heat. i install it in the
p-51 style fiberglass that skystar sold and instintly lost 40 degrees. I
believe that you need to do something of the same. I one thing, is 185
degrees really to hot.
John Oakley
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Alberta my love
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron" <rliebmann@comcast.net>
I have high temps too. It goes up to 185 and stays there. I took my radiator
to a radiator shop for testing but I was told that all cooling lines were
open. My upcoming experiment will be to put my unused heater core in the
chin of my round cowlin such a way that it will not show from a side view
but it will accept air from straight on. It will be in series with the lower
radiator. I will do this at the end of good WX.
Ron N55KF
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 32
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Rick" <turboflyer@comcast.net>
Ron, 185 is a good temp for a subaru, is that what you have.
Rick
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron
Subject: Re: Kitfox-List: Alberta my love
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron" <rliebmann@comcast.net>
I have high temps too. It goes up to 185 and stays there. I took my radiator
to a radiator shop for testing but I was told that all cooling lines were
open. My upcoming experiment will be to put my unused heater core in the
chin of my round cowlin such a way that it will not show from a side view
but it will accept air from straight on. It will be in series with the lower
radiator. I will do this at the end of good WX.
Ron N55KF
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Alberta my love |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrington" <aerowood@mcsi.net>
Don (& John),
The early Avid coolant radiator was located on the left side when facing
rearward.
I believe it dumped the warm air downward.
bh
> Don,
>
> The early Avids (I think it was the Model B) had a big bubble on one
> side of the cowl similar to what you described. I am not sure but I
> think the radiator was located there. Maybe some of the Avid pilots can
> go into more of a description. It was only on one side though and I
> forgot which side. It may be a function of prop wash. Remember you
> heard it here first.
>
> --
> John King
> Warrenton, VA
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Alberta my love |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
Bruce,
Was that for a 2-stroke or a 4-stroke Rotax? In other words was it a
function of prop wash?
--
John King
Warrenton, VA
Bruce Harrington wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Bruce Harrington" <aerowood@mcsi.net>
>
>Don (& John),
>The early Avid coolant radiator was located on the left side when facing
>rearward.
>I believe it dumped the warm air downward.
>bh
>
>
>
>>Don,
>>
>>The early Avids (I think it was the Model B) had a big bubble on one
>>side of the cowl similar to what you described. I am not sure but I
>>think the radiator was located there. Maybe some of the Avid pilots can
>>go into more of a description. It was only on one side though and I
>>forgot which side. It may be a function of prop wash. Remember you
>>heard it here first.
>>
>>--
>>John King
>>Warrenton, VA
>>
>>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Alberta my love |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Jerry Liles <wliles@bayou.com>
John the Avid B and C models used the 532 and had the radiator mounted
in the cowling on the right (passenger) side with a rather large scoop
to direct air to the radiator. The radiator was isolated from the
engine by a large baffle from the firewall to the cowling to force the
air to go through the rad. The hot air was exhausted out the right
side in most installations. Cabin heat could be obtained directly from
the radiator just by opening a little door in the firewall. There were
modified installations with shark gill inlets, air out the left or out
the bottom of the cowling, etc. Cooling was a problem on a lot of those
airplanes, partly, I suspect, because there was little airflow over the
engine, which would serve to dump considerable extra heat. Cooling
problems were solved by the system in the MK IV. My MK IV won't
overheat on 100deg days, even on the ground.
I wonder if cooling problems in Foxes would not be helped by improving
airflow through the cowling across the engine and exhaust?
John King wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: John King <kingjohne@adelphia.net>
>
>Bruce,
>
>Was that for a 2-stroke or a 4-stroke Rotax? In other words was it a
>function of prop wash?
>
>
>
Message 36
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--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Marc Arseneault" <northernultralights@hotmail.com>
Hi Don,
I have a 582 and originally had overheating problems. I had lowered the rad 1"
and the temps were still high. I lowered it another 1" and what a difference that
made. I used 1" X 2" aluminum, painted it black and it looks pretty good.
I bet it's not as nice as Gary's rad scoop but .......... Have a look at the outlet
of your exhaust.My next step if the temps would of still been high was to
extend the exhaust passed the rad as I findthe exhaustto be a little short and
some ofthe heat from itis hitting the rad. Don't cut just yet!
Best Regards,
Marc Arseneault
Ontario Canada
From: AlbertaIV@aol.com Reply-To: kitfox-list@matronics.com To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Subject: Kitfox-List: Alberta my love Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2004 16:36:55
EDT -- Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV@aol.com I had almost decided
to put Alberta on the market so I went
to the airport today to start performing a couple repairs to put her in ship-shape
condition and ready for auction block. One is replacing the shrunk tapes
on the wing tops and the other is to concur the 582 overheat problem during climb.
Well, the more I rubbed my hands across here lovely back the more I decided
I couldn't part with such beauty. I sat down in front of her prop and starred
at the radiator for over an hour. I had already lowered the rad once to below
the engine outlet air (about 4 inches). This will fix the problem but, I must
say it quickly approaches ugly. I think I may have come up with another idea
but need your opinions. I want to cut off the 2"-3" protrusion on the bottom
of the engine cowl that provides cowl exhaust. Then fiberglass the bottom of
the cowl so it is flush with the belly all the way across. I believe it is the
heat from the engine exhausting directly into the rad causing the overheat during
climb. More important, that 2"-3" cowl exhaust
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Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Stolen Rotax 912 ULS Engine |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: Dcecil3@aol.com
Torgeir is right
You can access the rotax stolen list in the US at the kodiak research
website. If anyone any where tries to buy parts for it based on serial number it
will
come up as stolen. Hope they catch em and burn their ass
This is just a thought but one you might consider.try going on Ebay and use
the watching page. I know you can do this , but am not sure how but I do know
that you can set an alarm
You give a description of what your looking for and if one comes up for sale
Ebay will Email you. You can bet your ass that whoever stole it by now knows
exactly what they've got. Ebay would be a Great place to unload it and give the
seller some chance of remaining anonymous, and why would they care what they
got for it, aint like they paid for it. Anyway it was just a thought
At least I hope your Homeowners will cover it
Good Luck
David Cecil
KF3 859 DC
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Alberta my love |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: dwight purdy <dpurdy@comteck.com>
When I ran no thermostat my temps were 160 in the summer.
Dwight
At 04:51 PM 9/2/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Ron" <rliebmann@comcast.net>
>
>I have high temps too. It goes up to 185 and stays there. I took my radiator
>to a radiator shop for testing but I was told that all cooling lines were
>open. My upcoming experiment will be to put my unused heater core in the
>chin of my round cowlin such a way that it will not show from a side view
>but it will accept air from straight on. It will be in series with the lower
>radiator. I will do this at the end of good WX.
>
>Ron N55KF
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>---
>Version: 6.0.745 / Virus Database: 497 - Release Date: 8/27/2004
---
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Stolen Rotax 912 ULS Engine |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: KITFOXPILOT@att.net
-------------- Original message from "RICHARD HUTSON" : --------------
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "RICHARD HUTSON"
>
> Jeff is this system part of NCIC? My wife is in charge of the
> communications division of a police dept. she is also the Primary TAC and
> she has never heard of it. Every thing she uses is NCIC based.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeffrey Puls"
> To:
> Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Stolen Rotax 912 ULS Engine
>
>
> > --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls"
> >
> > Gary,
> > Contact the officer in your department that is doing the follow up, not
> > the
> > preliminary investigation. Ask him if he entered it in LEADS. LEADS is a
> > data system run by the FBI. Everybody uses it. Officers use it when they
> > run in to something suspicious and want run a serial number or something.
> > If the information is entered, they will get a hit, no matter where they
> > are. If your police department didn't enter it or they can't for some
> > reason, I'll enter it. Jeff Puls Columbus, Ohio Division of Police Classic
> > IV
> > Hi,
Ref NCIC, a police report must be written first, then the officer will enter the
serial number into NCIC. The only way it would be discovered as stolen, is
if a Law Enforcement officer ran the S/N through NCIC. Have no idea what LEADS
is.
>
>
>
>
>
>
<!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
<style type='text/css'>
p {
margin: 0px;
}
</style>
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-------------- Original message from "RICHARD HUTSON" <RHUTSON@MIDSOUTH.RR.COM>:
--------------
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "RICHARD HUTSON" <RHUTSON@MIDSOUTH.RR.COM>
Jeff is this system part of NCIC? My wife is in charge of the
communications division of a police dept. she is also the Primary TAC and
she has never heard of it. Every thing she uses is NCIC based.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey Puls" <PULSAIR@MINDSPRING.COM>
To: <KITFOX-LIST@MATRONICS.COM>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: Stolen Rotax 912 ULS Engine
-- Kitfox-List message posted by: "Jeffrey Puls" <PULSAIR@MINDSPRING.COM>
Gary,
Contact the officer in your department that is doing the follow up, not
the
preliminary investigation. Ask him if he entered it in LEADS. LEADS is a
data system run by t
he FBI. Everybody uses it. Officers use it when they
run in to something suspicious and want run a serial number or something.
If the information is entered, they will get a hit, no matter where they
are. If your police department didn't enter it or they can't for some
reason, I'll enter it. Jeff Puls Columbus, Ohio Division of Police Classic
IV
Hi,
Ref NCIC, a police report must be written first, then the officer will enter the
serial number into NCIC. The only way it would be discovered as stolen, is if
a Law Enforcement officer ran the S/N through NCIC. Have no idea what LEADS
is.
nics.com/subscription
<!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
Message 40
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| Subject: | Wood Support for 1-piece Window on Kitfox 5 |
--> Kitfox-List message posted by: <Lonnie_D._Tillinghast@oxy.com>
Is the wood support that runs overhead from front to back on the
underside of the 1 piece window necessary? I have seen some Foxes with
it and some without.
Thanks,
Lonnie
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